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New 8B/+ at Hartland (Read 1964 times)

Duma

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New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 25, 2019, 10:09:51 pm
Squire has repeated Supercede (think 8A+ since the hold broke?) , reclimbed People of The Shire (first since the hold break? 8A) , and put up a new low right start to Supercede at 8B/+. No name yet as far as I know.
Beast!

(from his Instagram story)

BrutusTheBear

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#1 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 25, 2019, 10:59:20 pm
Wow!  :o Strong work by the sqwirl!

I think Supercede may have had a repeat since hold breakage.  As far as Iím aware POS was unrepeated even prior to hold breakage. Regardless very impressive stuff.

Bradders

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#2 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 07:25:40 am
Yeah think David Mason did Supercede last year or something post hold break. Such an amazing wall that.

Duma

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#3 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 07:45:14 am
Yeah I know re Supercede, that's why I said repeated not reclimbed. Comment in brackets was re possible grade change.

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#4 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 12:11:14 pm
Wow!  :o Strong work by the sqwirl!

I think Supercede may have had a repeat since hold breakage.  As far as Iím aware POS was unrepeated even prior to hold breakage. Regardless very impressive stuff.

I did POS, video on my Facebook. Is it a right Sit start or an independent line? there is defo possibility for a straight up right of Supercede.

unclesomebody

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#5 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 01:29:08 pm
Can someone post a link to videos of these problems? Would be very helpful from a beta perspective (as I remember these things being quite hard to figure out)

BrutusTheBear

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#6 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 06:29:11 pm
https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/HartlandBouldering/Hartland_Topo_Javu2.pdf

Topo in this guide, the new problem is listed as a project, line 6 on the topo.

Squirt posted a topo on instaspam but only in his story, so wonít be there for ever.  Not clear whether from sitting?! 


As a matter of interest how do folk feel about people claiming FAs of problems that have a broken hold?   Itís a repeat post hold breakage right?!

There is a particular problem here in Devon that has an ever evolving hold, that was reascended post hold breakage (one of many) that was named and claimed as a FA.  Since then the hold has Ďevolvedí again, the problem has become easier again.  FA for the taking on a regular basis on this one.  Donít get me wrong it needed a name, as it didnít have one but I donít view it as an FA.

BrutusTheBear

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#7 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 06:40:05 pm


Hamish Potokar doing Supercede pre hold breakage here.

Skwirrls new line comes in from the right not sure from exactly where at the moment.

People of the Shire starts as for Carnage (sit start undercuts left side of wall powerful move up with LH to crimp) and traverses rightwards into Supercede.

Doylo

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#8 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 07:04:25 pm
I donít agree with changing the name of something because a hold fell off. Pete Robins did it to a route on the Orme. It had been the highlight of the FAs career 20 years previous and he died young and Robins changed the name of his route!

Dan Cheetham

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#9 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 07:11:32 pm
Thatís a bit off. Who was the FA?

BrutusTheBear

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#10 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 07:27:42 pm
Glad Iím not the only one who feels this way!  Doylo thatís  a pretty shitty thing to have done.  Itís the same route ainít it, just a holdís fallen off.  I mentioned it coz squirrel referred to his repeat of People of the Shire as an FA, although he hasnít gone as far as renaming it (yet!j.

Beastly Squirrel

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#11 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 08:05:06 pm
Hey everyone,
Thanks for the post Duma and sorry Dan I didn't realise you had done People of the Shire since hold break, my bad. Yeah I agree reclaiming FA's (and renaming) after hold break is probably not best thing to do.
The new thing I added was a right hand sit start to Supercede but has different beta for majority of the problem so only shares the last two/three moves of Supercede - easier to explain by watching a video which I will post here this evening.
 :2thumbsup:  :2thumbsup:

Beastly Squirrel

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#12 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 08:15:06 pm
P.S. There is a straight up right of Supercede called "Northern Exposure" which climbs up the crack. It is quite scary and often wet. I climbed it a few years ago when we had about 15 pads!

Doylo

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#13 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 08:23:07 pm
Thatís a bit off. Who was the FA?

Ed Stone. Rodney God and the Oral Twins.

Dan Cheetham

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#14 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 08:41:14 pm
Is that the original name?

Doylo

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#15 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 08:58:34 pm
Ye, he changed it to Rodney God: Prawn Star

Duma

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#16 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 09:02:33 pm
The new thing I added was a right hand sit start to Supercede but has different beta for majority of the problem so only shares the last two/three moves of Supercede - easier to explain by watching a video which I will post here this evening.
 :2thumbsup:  :2thumbsup:
Psyched for the vid James!

Beastly Squirrel

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#17 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 26, 2019, 09:40:29 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BuW-7KbBvVj/
Here is a link to the video!

BrutusTheBear

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#18 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 27, 2019, 08:00:11 am
Good work James!  Hartland has now got a large concentration of quality hard boulders.  Perfect wad holiday spot.


turnipturned

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#19 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 27, 2019, 11:26:34 am
Hey everyone,
Thanks for the post Duma and sorry Dan I didn't realise you had done People of the Shire since hold break, my bad. Yeah I agree reclaiming FA's (and renaming) after hold break is probably not best thing to do.
The new thing I added was a right hand sit start to Supercede but has different beta for majority of the problem so only shares the last two/three moves of Supercede - easier to explain by watching a video which I will post here this evening.
 :2thumbsup:  :2thumbsup:

Apologies that was confusing, I was reply to Brutust comment that he didnít think anyone had repeat POS even before the gold break. I think Matt Birch also did it.

Great looking problem James. Dead keen to check it out, good on you

unclesomebody

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#20 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 27, 2019, 12:18:06 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BuW-7KbBvVj/
Here is a link to the video!

Very impressive. Always looks so easy in videos. I'm keen to check it out although weather looks shit this weekend.

Can any locals give some tips on how to find this wall in condition? I've only been once and corridors of power felt very hard for 7C (I blame conditions!).

BrutusTheBear

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#21 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 27, 2019, 08:47:25 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BuW-7KbBvVj/
Here is a link to the video!

Very impressive. Always looks so easy in videos. I'm keen to check it out although weather looks shit this weekend.

Can any locals give some tips on how to find this wall in condition? I've only been once and corridors of power felt very hard for 7C (I blame conditions!).
Ahhh the coast be a fickle beast!  Carnage wall likes the sun to help it dry so a low-tide mid afternoon onwards is good or a good onshore breeze.  Small swell is helpful, it needs time to dry out once the tide has gone off it.   Corridors is solid 7c a big wide shouldery move thatís the stopper, as well getting your arse of the ground on the start. Wingspan definitely an advantage!

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#22 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 28, 2019, 09:48:16 am
I don't think it's an FA if you re-climb a problem after a hold break and you definitely shouldn't be renaming it.

Good work on The Vault James, keen to try it at some point, although doesn't look like a sit start from your video ;). I love this bit of wall, all the holds are great and the height adds a nice bit of spice at the top.

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#23 Re: New 8B/+ at Hartland
February 28, 2019, 03:23:21 pm
I've always the the FA after hold breakage is a relative thing.  Did the break mean it went from 6C to 8A and a completely new sequence?  then its an FA.  If a hold crumbled, but the sequence stays the same and it goes from 7C to 8A, then probably not an FA. 

Either way, no renaming it (unless you had originally found and cleaned it, someone else snaked it, gave it a crappy name, and now you have a great punny name for it)