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Humans who have climbed 9a+ (Read 45218 times)

Rob F

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#125 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
April 10, 2020, 06:03:08 pm
Anyone done 9a+ on their fingerboard yet???

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#126 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
April 10, 2020, 08:05:33 pm
Anyone done 9a+ on their fingerboard yet???
Imagine the controversy when somebody repeats it but crimps a hold you are supposed to open hand!

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#127 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 18, 2020, 08:17:26 pm
More than half of the year has passed, so far I have noted 18 ascents of 9a+ or harder. Five more climbers added to the list: William Bosi, Julia Chanourdie, Laura Rogora, Jose Luis Palao and Davide Picco.

Scroll down the yellow box for all ascents. Are there some I've missed? Scandals? Rumours? Is Qui really 9a+?
Code: [Select]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date         Climber            Name                     Grade   Area                     Note                                       
------------ ------------------ ------------------------ ------- ------------------------ --------------------------------------------
2020-01-18   David Firnenburg   Papichulo                9a+     Oliana                                                               

2020-01-18   Hugo Parmentier    Eagle 4                  9b      Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux                                               

2020-01-19   Cédric Lachat      Pachamama                9a+     Oliana                   Exact date not known.                       

2020-02-05   William Bosi       La Capella               9b      Siurana                  Only 3 days                                 

2020-02-07   Cédric Lachat      Joe Mama                 9a+     Oliana                   Says easy 9a+                               

2020-02-07   Sébastien Bouin    Joe Mama                 9a+     Oliana                   Says 9a(+) on instagram                     

2020-02-09   Sébastien Bouin    Catxasa                  9a+     Santa Linya              Says 9a with knee-pads. Edu Marin agrees.                     

2020-03-01   Piotr Schab        Joe Mama                 9a+     Oliana                                                               

2020-03-07   Jorge Díaz-Rullo   Joe Mama                 9a+     Oliana                                                               

2020-03-13   Julia Chanourdie   Super Crackinette        9a+     Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux                                               

2020-05      Alessandro Zeni    Cryptography             9b      Saint-Loup               Link-up between Bain de sang and Bimbaluna 

2020-05-29   Laura Rogora       Pure Dreaming plus       9a+     Arco                                                                 

2020-06-13   Sébastien Bouin    Biographie/Realization   9a+     Céüse                                                               

2020-06-14   Jose Luis Palao    Mona Lisa Integral       9a+     Rodellar                                                             

2020-06-29   Jose Luis Palao    Apocalipsis de la        9a+     Rodellar                 Downgraded to 9a+ from 9b                   
                                Gioconda                                                                                             

2020-07-06   Stefano Carnati    Jungle Boogie            9a+     Céüse                                                               

2020-07-11   Davide Picco       Pure Dreaming plus       9a+     Arco                                                                 

2020-07-13   Stefano Ghisolfi   The Bow                  9a+     Arco                                                                 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

jwi

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#128 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 14, 2020, 08:43:54 pm
I have made a small website for the 9a+ list at https://semicontinuous.shinyapps.io/FiveFifteen/

If I have time and energy I will add more graphs etc. Suggestions welcome.

I have the "database", as it were on https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
If someone like to help me update the file more than biannually, that would be most appreciated.

Since last time, I have noted the following ascents:

Code: [Select]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date         Climber            Name                Grade   Area              Note                                           
------------ ------------------ ------------------- ------- ----------------- -----------------------------------------------
2020-07-25   Laura Rogora       Ali Hulk            9b      Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension total                                                                             
                                sit start)                                                                                   

2020-08-05   Alexander Megos    Bibliographie       9c      Céüse                                                           

2020-08-16   Jorge Díaz-Rullo   Las Meninas R2      9a+/b   Rodellar                                                         

2020-08-18   Jorge Díaz-Rullo   Apocalipsis de la   9a+     Rodellar          Agrees with 9a+                               
                                Gioconda                                                                                     

2020-08-20   Jonatan Flor       Las Meninas R2      9a+/b   Rodellar                                                         

2020-08-28   Sébastien Bouin    La Moustache qui    9a+     Entraygues                                                       
                                fâche                                                                                       

2020-09-01   Pierre Le Cerf     Punt X              9a+     Gorges du Loup    First ascent after major hold breakages       

2020-09-07   Alexander Megos    L'étrange ivresse   9a+     Céüse             Claims 9a/b and much harder than other 9a+ at 
                                des lenteurs                                  Céüse                                         

2020-09-14   Dani Fuertes       Ali Hulk            9a+     Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension total)                                                                           

2020-09-20   Dani Fuertes       Ali Hulk            9b      Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension total                                                                             
                                sit start)                                                                                   

2020-09-23   Álex Garriga       Seta ibérica        9a+     Cuenca                                                           

2020-09-28   Stefano Ghisolfi   Change              9b+     Flatanger                                                       

2020-09-28   Jorge Díaz-Rullo   El bon combat       9a+/b   Cova de           Suggests 9b                                   
                                                            l'Ocell–Sant                                                     
                                                            Miquel del Fai                                                   

2020-09-28   Dave Graham        Ali Hulk (fin de    9a+     Rodellar                                                         
                                extension total                                                                             
                                sitstart)                                                                                   

2020-09-29   Dave Graham        Ali Hulk            9b      Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension total                                                                             
                                sit start)                                                                                   

2020-09-29   Hyunbin Min        Soul Rock Dance     9b      'Near Seoul'      FA previously hardest route 9a.               

2020-09-30   Enrique Gallardo   Ali Hulk            9a+     Rodellar                                                         
                                (extension)                                                                                 

2020-10-06   Dani Fuertes       Ali Hulk (fin de    9a+     Rodellar                                                         
                                extension total                                                                             
                                sitstart)                                                                                   

2020-10-11   Anatole Bosio      Aubade directe      9a+     Montagne                                                         
                                                            Sainte-Victoire                                                 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Did I miss something? Was there maybe a linkup in the Ali Baba cave that evaded my extreme enthusiasm for link-ups?

Duma

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#129 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 14, 2020, 10:08:13 pm
Should the boulder problem starts to routes really count? [/grumpy old man]

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#130 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 14, 2020, 10:17:18 pm
If someone managed one of the hard links with bolted top-outs in Parisellas - say Dorsal Stream into the bolted finish of Bonnie Extension at 9a+ - then I’d say it was relevant.

So yes.

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#131 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 14, 2020, 10:47:30 pm
I have the "database", as it were on https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
If someone like to help me update the file more than biannually, that would be most appreciated.

I'll keep an eye out, though Im not so up to date with stuff outside the UK. What's the best way to contribute? Pull request on github?

jwi

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#132 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 15, 2020, 07:55:02 am
I have the "database", as it were on https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
If someone like to help me update the file more than biannually, that would be most appreciated.

I'll keep an eye out, though Im not so up to date with stuff outside the UK. What's the best way to contribute? Pull request on github?

I added you as a contributor (assuming you are bourbonspecial who owns the UK lists).

Posting on this thread helps a bit as well. Normally I just read through Desnivel and Grimper and hope that they haven't missed anything. I'm not sure it will work in the future though... grimper don't recon 9a+ ascents are significant if they are not done by women, children or frenchmen.

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#133 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 16, 2020, 09:01:00 pm
I added you as a contributor (assuming you are bourbonspecial who owns the UK lists).

Thanks  :great:

How attached are you to the IDs on each row? Im finding it quite tricky to edit the file with them included (I tried the program linked in the README but struggling to get it to work, probably me being stupid, I couldnt work out how to add a new line...)

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#134 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 19, 2020, 11:31:23 am
Carlo Traversi has done the first ascent of a 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGYCIwUlPdt/

jwi

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#135 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 19, 2020, 11:33:48 am
I added you as a contributor (assuming you are bourbonspecial who owns the UK lists).

Thanks  :great:

How attached are you to the IDs on each row? Im finding it quite tricky to edit the file with them included (I tried the program linked in the README but struggling to get it to work, probably me being stupid, I couldnt work out how to add a new line...)

the key field (first column) is just there because of lazy programming in R. you can put whatever there. or blank.

jwi

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#136 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 19, 2020, 11:34:30 am
Carlo Traversi has done the first ascent of a 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGYCIwUlPdt/

thx!

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#138 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 19, 2020, 06:03:45 pm
Jonathan Siegrest has put up a new 9a+ https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/united-states/5g/sectors/white-wall-sector/routes/nu-world

He's said 9a+/b for him but put 9a+ on 8a.nu, so I guess 9a+ is closer to the mark.

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#140 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 23, 2020, 07:06:24 am
Daniel woods has nipped in for another repeat of Empath https://www.instagram.com/p/CGpuWvtFF22/?igshid=1okh44q8mr2sw

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#141 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 23, 2020, 10:05:38 am
After having done his first 9a+ (Aubade directe) just a forthnight ago, Anatole Bosio has done his second 9a+ with Supercrackinette in Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux.

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#142 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 23, 2020, 03:54:48 pm
Seb Bouin, the world's strongest proponent of slash grades, has made the first ascent of “Beyond Integral” (9b/+), a project Fedric Ferraro bolted in Pic Saint Loup.

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#143 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 23, 2020, 07:13:39 pm
Fucking hate slash grades.

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#144 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 24, 2020, 11:48:02 am
Ye/ah, m/e to/o.

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#145 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 24, 2020, 11:59:33 am
Wasn't there a problem in North Wales that got given V8/+/9 or something?

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#146 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 25, 2020, 05:03:42 pm
I see Nathaniel Coleman has joined the Empath crew, fastest 4 ascents of a new 9a+?!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGwW26ADg9K/?igshid=ji4auyznovhh

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#147 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 25, 2020, 05:33:01 pm
More ascents than Biographie during a spell with the Mistral blowing in June, or a longer line than at the base of La Rambla on a crispy February afternoon 🤨

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#148 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 25, 2020, 07:48:09 pm
Wasn't there a problem in North Wales that got given V8/+/9 or something?

The old North Wales guide used to have a V8+ guide to compensate for a perceived asynchrony between the V and font systems (V8 = font 7b; V8+ = font 7b+; V9 = font 7c).

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#149 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 26, 2020, 07:15:21 am
I see Nathaniel Coleman has joined the Empath crew, fastest 4 ascents of a new 9a+?!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGwW26ADg9K/?igshid=ji4auyznovhh

previously fastest 4 ascents of a 9a+ or harder, days between the 4 ascents closest in time:
Code: [Select]
                                   Name        V1
 1:                            La Rambla   39 days
 2:                            Papichulo  104 days
 3:                             Joe Mama  121 days
 4:               Biographie/Realization  385 days
 5: Ali Hulk (extension total sit start)  428 days
 6:                        Seleccio Anal  460 days
 7:                              Catxasa  761 days
 8:                            Pachamama  792 days
 9:                            First Ley  850 days
10:                       Power Inverter 1809 days

 

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