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Humans who have climbed 9a+ (Read 45208 times)

jwi

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#25 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
April 04, 2019, 09:12:20 am
Scroll down in the yellow box, and you see it

cowboyhat

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#26 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
April 05, 2019, 06:17:41 pm
[...] needs graphs.



According to this exactly no one my height has climbed 9a+.

Which kind of makes me feel better. Or lazy.

Both.

jwi

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#27 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
June 04, 2019, 12:45:51 pm
To complete some of the tables, and before I start sending people weird messages on social media, does anyone has the height of any of the following climbers:

Alessandro Zeni, Andrew Palmer, Enzo Oddo, Eric Albertini, Gerard Rull, Gérôme Pouvreau, James Litz, John Gaskins, Kamil Ferenc, Luis Alfonso Felix, Markus Bock, Matty Hong, Sean Bailey, Shawn Raboutou, Silvio Reffo, Stefano Carnati, Toru Nakajima, and Tristan Chen

or the exact birthday of any of the following

Code: [Select]
--------------------------
Climber             Born 
------------------- ------
Alessandro Zeni     1991 

Bernabé Fernández   1974 

Eric Albertini      1986 

Gerard Rull         1988 

Jakub Konecny       1999 

Kamil Ferenc        1991 

Stefano Carnati     1998 

Tristan Chen        1996 



jwi

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#28 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 01, 2019, 08:41:53 am
For the second quarter of 2019.

Code: [Select]
Name                 Grade   Climber             Date         Note                             
-------------------- ------- ------------------- ------------ ----------------------------------
Move                 9b/+    Sébastien Bouin     2019-06-17                                     
Fight or Flight      9b      Piotr Schab         2019-04-26                                     
La Planta de Shiva   9b      Jonathan Siegrist   2019-05-05                                     
La Planta de Shiva   9b      Jorge Diaz-Rullo    2019-05-28                                     
Mamichula            9b      Sébastien Bouin     2019-04-15                                     
El bon combat        9a+/b   Felipe Camargo      2019-04-19   Suggests 9b                       
No Pain No Gain      9a+     Jonatan Flor        2019-06-03   Exact date unknown to me         
Papichulo            9a+     Sébastien Bouin     2019-04-18                                     
Sweet Neuf           9a+     Cedric Lachat       2019-06-21   Not exact date. tentatively 9a/+ 

(Scroll down in the yellow box to see all ascents)

Anything missing?

Duma

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#29 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 01, 2019, 06:06:38 pm
Seb pretty dominant there. Odd to see a list like that without Ondra.

Didn't Sachi Amma do something hard recently?

Duma

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#30 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 01, 2019, 06:08:27 pm
Scrub that, he did stoking the fire, but at the and of march.

jwi

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#31 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 01, 2019, 11:42:02 pm
Seb pretty dominant there. Odd to see a list like that without Ondra.


Olympics I guess, but still two routes ≥ 9b in three months is good going by anyone's standard...

jwi

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#32 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 14, 2019, 08:13:59 am
Jorge Díaz-Rullo has done the 17th repeat of Biographie, 9a+

Biographie is his 5th route ≥9a+ after  Ali Hulk (extension), Panorama (FA), Circo Iberico (FA), and La Planta de Shiva.


jwi

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#33 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 18, 2019, 09:08:41 pm
Jonatan Flor has done one of the harder Ali Hulk thingies in Rodellar at 9a+

https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jonatan-flor-encadena-ali-hulk-extension-total-9a-en-rodellar/

Flor has previously done Daniel Fuertes 9a+ "No Pain No Gain", also in Rodellar.

jwi

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#34 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 30, 2019, 06:22:24 pm
Jonatan Flor has added the sitstart of Ali Hulk (sit start) to Ali Hulk (extension total) to make it Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) at 9b. This is his first 9b after having done two 9a+s (Ali Hulk (extension total) and No Pain No Gain). Source: https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-9b-pour-jonatan-flor-first-9b-by-jonatan-flor/

There are twenty climbers having claimed 9b ascents (Fred Rouhling, Jonatan Flor, Dani Andrada, Magnus Midtbř, Adam Ondra, Alexander Megos, Chris Sharma, Jakob Schubert, Sachi Amma, Matty Hong, Piotr Schab, Stefano Ghisolfi, Ethan Pringle, Jonathan Siegrist, Pirmin Bertle, Daniel Woods, Angela Eiter, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Sébastien Bouin and Steve McClure)

jwi

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#35 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 31, 2019, 10:12:29 am
Hugo Parmentier has done his first 9a+ with “La Moustache qui Fâche”, in Entraygues. La Moustache qui Fâche was first ascended by young prodigy Enzo Oddo in 2011, and has previously been repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2011.

Source: https://www.grimper.com/news-hugo-parmentier-coche-premier-9a-entraygues

There are currently 85 climbers who have claimed ascents of 9a+ or harder

Code: [Select]
Climber                    Routes   
-------------------------- ----
Adam Ondra                 59 
Chris Sharma               20 
Alexander Megos            17 
Stefano Ghisolfi           15 
Sachi Amma                 14 
Ramón Julián Puigblanqué   13 
Jakob Schubert             12 
Jonathan Siegrist          10 
Sébastien Bouin            10 
Piotr Schab                9   
Dani Andrada               5   
Daniel Woods               5   
Iker Pou                   5   
Jorge Díaz-Rullo           5   
Magnus Midtbř              5   
Pirmin Bertle              5   
Edu Marin                  4   
Enzo Oddo                  4   
Gérôme Pouvreau            4   
Jon Cardwell               4   
Matty Hong                 4   
Patxi Usobiaga             4   
Cédric Lachat              3   
Fred Rouhling              3   
Jonatan Flor               3   
Klemen Becan               3   
Margo Hayes                3   
Bernabé Fernández          2   
Daniel Jung                2   
Dave Graham                2   
David Firnenburg           2   
Ethan Pringle              2   
Felipe Camargo             2   
Felix Neumärker            2   
Gonzalo Larrocha           2   
Jernej Kruder              2   
Markus Bock                2   
Mateusz Haladaj            2   
Sean Bailey                2   
Stefano Carnati            2   
Steve McClure              2   
Alessandro Zeni            1   
Alexander Huber            1   
Anak Verhoeven             1   
Andreas Bindhammer         1   
Andrew Palmer              1   
Angela Eiter               1   
Arthur Kubista             1   
Baptiste Dherbilly         1   
Cedric Lachat              1   
Dai Koyamada               1   
Daniel Fuertes             1   
Danilo Pereyra             1   
David Gambús               1   
Dimitri Sharafutdinov      1   
Domen Skofic               1   
Eric Albertini             1   
Gabriele Moroni            1   
Gerard Rull                1   
Hugo Parmentier            1   
Jacopo Larcher             1   
Jakub Konecny              1   
James Litz                 1   
Jan Hojer                  1   
John Gaskins               1   
Kamil Ferenc               1   
Loďc Zehani                1   
Luis Alfonso Felix         1   
Mathieu Bouyoud            1   
Mike Foley                 1   
Pablo Barbero              1   
Paul Robinson              1   
Roland Hemetzberger        1   
Said Belhaj                1   
Sangwon Son                1   
Shawn Raboutou             1   
Silvio Reffo               1   
Stefan Schibli             1   
Sylvain Millet             1   
Tomas Ravanal              1   
Tommy Caldwell             1   
Toru Nakajima              1   
Tristan Chen               1   
Vasya Vorotnikov           1   
Yuji Hirayama              1 
« Last Edit: July 31, 2019, 10:21:26 am by jwi »

Doylo

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#36 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 31, 2019, 10:52:26 am
What became of Enzo Oddo? Another future beast no longer in the future.

jwi

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#37 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
July 31, 2019, 11:46:52 am
He became tall?


(Last time I read something was in 2017 when it was said (by Kevin Aglaé e.g.) that he was still very strong and climbed exceptionally well on long routes, and that he really disliked climbing media.)

For those who can stomach climbing gossip (and who cannot?), see comments to this: https://www.facebook.com/argrimpol/photos/a.1545558352126728/1846078702074690/



Kingy

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#38 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
August 01, 2019, 08:27:08 am
What a shame, I guess he finds the 'fame' side of top end climbing hard to deal with. i remember seeing him in 2012 at Gorges du Loup trying to do a sit start to Punt X, an already desparate 9a, (like trying to link Keen Roof into Evo or summat).

Maybe he should take a leaf ouf of Ondra's book:


jwi

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#39 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
August 01, 2019, 09:29:05 pm
Jonatan Flor has added the sitstart of Ali Hulk (sit start) to Ali Hulk (extension total) to make it Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) at 9b. This is his first 9b after having done two 9a+s (Ali Hulk (extension total) and No Pain No Gain). Source: https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-9b-pour-jonatan-flor-first-9b-by-jonatan-flor/

Repeated by Jorge Díaz-Rullo the day after. https://www.instagram.com/p/B0oYkbGHv8I/

jwi

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#40 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
August 02, 2019, 10:40:26 am
The average height of the 67 9a+ climbers that I have this information for is now 173 cm. I lack reliable data on 18/85  climbers who have reported an 9a+ ascent.


jwi

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#41 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
August 08, 2019, 01:17:42 pm
Jonathan Guadalcazar has done his first 9a+, Viaje Morfo, a link-up between Viaje Astral and Morfologi in Tarbena.

Spain now has 15 climbers who have claimed a 9a+ ascent, while USA has 17 and Germany 10.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B05XYUGIwYW/

jwi

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#42 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
September 06, 2019, 11:50:59 am
A flurry of 9b first ascents the last fortnight

Code: [Select]
Name                         Grade   First.Ascensionist   FA.date      Area     
---------------------------- ------- -------------------- ------------ ----------
La Rage d'Adam               9b/+    Sébastien Bouin      2019-09-04   Verdon   
Apocalipsis de la Gioconda   9b      Jonatan Flor         2019-08-26   Rodellar 
Patanics                     9b      Jorge Díaz-Rullo     2019-08-26   Rodellar       

These climbers have claimed an ascent of 9b or harder
Code: [Select]
             Climber  No of routes
1         Adam Ondra 23
2       Chris Sharma  7
3   Stefano Ghisolfi  6
4     Jakob Schubert  4
5    Alexander Megos  3
6   Jorge Díaz-Rullo  3
7         Sachi Amma  3
8    Sébastien Bouin  3
9       Dani Andrada  2
10      Jonatan Flor  2
11 Jonathan Siegrist  2
12      Angela Eiter  1
13      Daniel Woods  1
14     Ethan Pringle  1
15     Fred Rouhling  1
16     Magnus Midtbř  1
17        Matty Hong  1
18       Piotr Schab  1
19     Pirmin Bertle  1
20     Steve McClure  1

bigironhorse

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#43 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
September 22, 2019, 04:23:51 pm
 Ondra has made the second ascent of Qui in Tyrol. Graded 9a by FA, Ondra seems to suggest 9a/+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2qyzpGp3Le/?igshid=hfsdjqvfib6x

jwi

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#44 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
September 22, 2019, 05:22:12 pm
Ondra has made the second ascent of Qui in Tyrol. Graded 9a by FA, Ondra seems to suggest 9a/+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2qyzpGp3Le/?igshid=hfsdjqvfib6x

9a/+ doesn't quite cut it. Also, I did not quite understand from that post + article in Grimper how much breakage affects the grade.

jwi

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#45 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 07, 2019, 09:27:51 pm
Loďc Zehani (17 years) has done his project in, Orgon, adding a harder exit version of his own route “Le Poisson pilote” 9a+  to create “Obsession” 9b.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/loic-zehani-propose-obsession-9b-loic-zehani-proposes-obsession-9b/

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#46 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 08, 2019, 08:33:18 am
 What's with the drilled holds? From a previous era?

Kingy

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#47 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 08, 2019, 08:37:07 am
I think the thinking goes a bit along the lines that virtually the rest of Orgon is drilled so what's a few drilled pockets between friends on this new one. A retrograde step IMO. (Its not clear whether these drilled holds are new or old.)

jwi

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#48 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
October 10, 2019, 09:50:40 pm
I have asked around. Apparently the drilled pockets is not the only thing that is controversial about this ascent. Unless irrefutable proof of him having the required level for 9b appears I will strike Zehani from the list.

duncan

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#49 Re: Humans who have climbed 9a+
November 04, 2019, 10:35:49 am
Cedric Lachat has joined  the La Rambla club, conveniently allowing him and his harem to leave early and letting us to take over their penthouse suite.

 

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