[jwi]

Anak Verhoven has repeated Joe Mama in Oliana, a route that apparently has gotten more solid in the grade (9a+) since a hold broke on top.

https://www.grimper.com/news-joe-mama-9a-anak-verhoeven

[Duma]

This her second of the grade isn't it?
Ig post with some details in English :
https://www.instagram.com/p/B4kQ00OD6yP/?igshid=vip4yf5suwhx

[jwi]

This her second of the grade isn't it?

yup. She did the FA of Sweet Neuf in Presles which is unrepeated (unless the Dark Horse of Provence hasn't climbed it)

[jwi]

I have the following ascents for September, October and the first week of November:

Code: [Select]

Name                         Grade   Climber            Date         Note                                 
---------------------------- ------- ------------------ ------------ --------------------------------------
La Rage d'Adam               9b/+    Sébastien Bouin    2019-09-04                                         
Ali Hulk (extension total)   9a+     Alex Garriga       2019-09-28                                         
Following the Leader         9a+     Jorge Díaz-Rullo   2019-10-16   Claims 9a+/b after breakage           
Patanics                     9b      Sébastien Bouin    2019-10-30   Says 9a+ or 9a/a+                     
La Rambla                    9a+     Cedric Lachat      2019-11-01                                         
Joe Mama                     9a+     Anak Verhoeven     2019-11-07   More solid 9a+ after recent breakage 
No Pain No Gain              9a+     Sébastien Bouin    2019-11-07   3 attempts, says 9a                   

I have been very busy, so it's likely that I've missed stuff.

[Duma]

Ondra thought Qui was closer to 9a+ in its current state, not enough to get him on the list?

[abarro81]

I thought Lachat repeated Sweet Neuf?

[remus]

I thought Lachat repeated Sweet Neuf?

That was end of june I believe. ed: whoops, just seen you meant in reference to it being unrepeated.

[jwi]

I thought Lachat repeated Sweet Neuf?

Ahh... yes your right. My brain is suffering from dystrophy with all the mindless work.
I even have it listed here https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv

[jwi]

Sindre Sæther, the Romsdal local and madcap who freed The Arch Wall on the Troll wall has joined the 5.15 club with a repeat of Chilam Bilam, 9a/b.

[HaeMeS]

A newcomer to the list and a second of the grade:

Cody Roth: https://www.climbing.com/people/cody-roth-the-undercover-5-15-crusher-following-his-own-path/
Anak Verhoeven: https://www.grimper.com/news-joe-mama-9a-anak-verhoeven

[jwi]

A newcomer to the list and a second of the grade:

Cody Roth: https://www.climbing.com/people/cody-roth-the-undercover-5-15-crusher-following-his-own-path/

Me, I eat dust was widely reported as 9a and is in a secret location in Texas. At some point it must have gotten upgraded by someone to 5.15a? As Rock & Ice (and Climbing Magazine) seems to have an editorial policy of adding half a grade to the guidebook grade for every route they mention I'm very sceptical. Unless it got upgraded by a repeater I'm not sure it belongs on a list of 9a+ routes? Does anyone know?

[owensum]

A newcomer to the list and a second of the grade:

Cody Roth: https://www.climbing.com/people/cody-roth-the-undercover-5-15-crusher-following-his-own-path/

Me, I eat dust was widely reported as 9a and is in a secret location in Texas. At some point it must have gotten upgraded by someone to 5.15a? As Rock & Ice (and Climbing Magazine) seems to have an editorial policy of adding half a grade to the guidebook grade for every route they mention I'm very sceptical. Unless it got upgraded by a repeater I'm not sure it belongs on a list of 9a+ routes? Does anyone know?

Longtime lurker here. I know Cody a bit from time in New Mexico. He did retroactively upgrade the route, I believe there's a post somewhere floating around on social media where he explains that.

[jwi]

thx! wadded

[jwi]

Seb Bouin has freed The Dream, 9b, in Albania. Not a bad year for France's best rock climber

Code: [Select]

Name             Grade   Area        Country   Date         Note                                   
---------------- ------- ----------- --------- ------------ ----------------------------------------
Pachamama        9a+     Oliana      Spain     2019-03-05                                           
Mamichula        9b      Oliana      Spain     2019-04-15                                           
Papichulo        9a+     Oliana      Spain     2019-04-18                                           
Move             9b/+    Flatanger   Norway    2019-06-17                                           
La Rage d'Adam   9b/+    Verdon      France    2019-09-04                                           
Patanics         9a+     Rodellar    Spain     2019-10-30   Downgraded from 9b. Says 9a+ or easier 
The Dream        9b                  Albania   2019-12-16   Bolted by A. Ondra                     


[Ru]

Not that many people get to do the FA of projects bolted by Ondra.

[Duma]

Got to be one of the best looking really hard routes around

And what a year for Seb, anyone ever had better apart from Ondra?

[jwi]

And what a year for Seb, anyone ever had better apart from Ondra?

If the criterium is number of routes ≥ 9a+ per year, this is the current standings:

Code: [Select]

                     Climber Year  Routes
1                 Adam Ondra 2017 11
2                 Adam Ondra 2018 10
3                 Adam Ondra 2013  9
4                 Adam Ondra 2011  8
5            Sébastien Bouin 2019  7
6                 Sachi Amma 2015  6
7                 Adam Ondra 2016  5
8           Jorge Díaz-Rullo 2019  5
9           Stefano Ghisolfi 2017  5
10           Alexander Megos 2016  4


[jwi]

Standings in a nicer format

Code: [Select]

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Climber      Year   N    Routes                                         
------------ ------ ---- -----------------------------------------------
Adam Ondra   2017   11   Silence (9c), Lapsus (9b), Mamichula (9b),     
                         Move Hard (9b), One Slap (9b), Queen Line     
                         (9b), Naturalmente (9a+), One Punch (9a+),     
                         Pachamama (9a+), Thor's Hammer R2 (9a+),       
                         Ultimatum (9a+)                               

Adam Ondra   2018   10   Disbelief (9b), Eagle 4 (9b), High Line       
                         (9a+/b), Czech Trip (9a+), La Castagne (9a+), 
                         Meiose (9a+), Sacrifice (9a+), Stone           
                         Butterfly (9a+), Super Crackinette (9a+),     
                         Underground > Pure dreaming (9a+)             

Adam Ondra   2013   9    La Dura Dura (9b+), Vasil Vasil (9b+), Move   
                         (9b/+), Fight or Flight (9b), Iron Curtain     
                         (9b), Torture physique (9a+/b), Hellracer     
                         (9a+), Kangoroo's Limb (9a+), Power Inverter   
                         (9a+)                                         

Adam Ondra   2011   8    Chaxiraxi (9b), La Capella (9b), La Planta de 
                         Shiva (9b), Chaxi (9a+), Chilam Balam (9a+),   
                         Obrint el sistema (9a+), Overshadow (9a+),     
                         Perlorodka (9a+)                               

Sébastien    2019   7    La Rage d'Adam (9b/+), Move (9b/+), Mamichula 
Bouin                    (9b), The Dream (9b), Pachamama (9a+),         
                         Papichulo (9a+), Patanics (9a+)               

Sachi Amma   2015   6    Fight or Flight (9b), Catxasa (9a+), Jungle   
                         Boogie (9a+), Power Inverter (9a+), Seleccio   
                         Anal (9a+), Tinipi (9a+)                       

Adam Ondra   2016   5    Robin úd (9b), Stoking the fire (9b),         
                         Viscious circle (9a+/b), 120 Degrees (9a+),   
                         Hyper finale (9a+)                             

Jorge        2019   5    Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) (9b), La 
Díaz-Rullo               Planta de Shiva (9b), Following the Leader     
                         (9a+/b), Biographie/Realization (9a+),         
                         Patanics (9a+)                                 

Stefano      2017   5    First Round First Minute (9b), One Slap (9b), 
Ghisolfi                 First Ley (9a+), La Rambla (9a+), One Punch   
                         (9a+)                                         

Alexander    2016   4    Fight Club (9b), Becoming (9a+), First Ley     
Megos                    (9a+), Super Crackinette (9a+)   

[SA Chris]

Top ten recent climbing performances, with Ondra taking up 5 of those..

[jwi]

Stefano Carnati has repeated Demencia Senil 9a+ in Margalef. His 3rd of the grade after Goldrake and Biographie https://www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/arrampicata/stefano-carnati-fast-and-furious-demencia-senil-9a-piu-margalef.html

[jwi]

Stefano Ghisolfi has done "Stoking the Fire", 9b, in Santa Linya for his 7th route 9b or harder

Code: [Select]

Name                       Grade   Area          Country   Date       
-------------------------- ------- ------------- --------- ------------
Lapsus                     9b      Andonno       Italy     2015-11-02 
First Round First Minute   9b      Margalef      Spain     2017-01-30 
One Slap                   9b      Arco          Italy     2017-11-22 
La Capella                 9b      Siurana       Spain     2018-12-01 
Perfecto Mundo             9b+     Margalef      Spain     2018-12-05 
Queen Line                 9b      Arco          Italy     2019-02-26 
Stoking the fire           9b      Santa Linya   Spain     2019-12-28 
Ghisolfi did the 5th known ascent of the route

Code: [Select]

Climber            Gender   Height   Date       
------------------ -------- -------- ------------
Chris Sharma       M        184      2013-02-06 
Adam Ondra         M        185      2016-02-19 
Jakob Schubert     M        173      2018-01-05 
Sachi Amma         M        172      2019-03-25 
Stefano Ghisolfi   M        170      2019-12-28 


[Duma]

Mildly off topic, you have Sharma as 1.84m tall, where does that info come from? Just curious as I don't remember him being that tall, although the only time I've seen him in the flesh was briefly and a long time ago.

[jwi]

Alas, I did a big mistake when I compiled the height of climbers, and did not include a column for the source... So I cannot check this quickly.

Wikipedia has him listed as 6 foot (183 cm), for which they have an iffy source. I have the impression that he is a bit taller than me so that doesn't seem too strange.

Lots of the data on height comes from climbers IFSC pages, and as that is self-reported the heights are likely slightly exaggerated on average. (It is well known that people are amazingly willing to fib about their height and weight.)

[Duma]

Could well be correct, I just remembered thinking he was smaller than I expected! That said, he looks fairly similar in height to Ondra in this pic :
https://images.app.goo.gl/cTyXmkt8A3vPXJtL9

[remus]

Lots of the data on height comes from climbers IFSC pages, and as that is self-reported the heights are likely slightly exaggerated on average. (It is well known that people are amazingly willing to fib about their height and weight.)

Fun little anecdote from the lattice database: with the self reported heights we gather, there's a big spike in the distribution at 183cm (...=6ft)!