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Rollover 7B+ Caley Crag - Chipped pocket in? (Read 1888 times)

Kingy

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Rollover 7B+ Caley Crag - Chipped pocket in?
February 23, 2019, 08:49:22 pm
Got as far as the 'good hold' on the arete on this one today (its not that great  ::)) Tried to rock onto the arete on a crap smear but fell off. I wondered if the chipped pocket around to the left is in for your left foot for this move for pulling onto the left wall? It seemed like it might be within reach

andy_e

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Not a definite answer, but I was planning on using it to get established on the face. Either way, you'd then have to do a few tricky arete moves without any chips anyway.

I don't actually know anyone that has done this!

Kingy

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Cheers Andy. Yes UKC and Peakbouldering have drawn a blank on this one.

It seemed such a cool start up the arete, seemed a shame to plonk you toe in a massive chipped hold. If that's the only way it can be done then I'll do it that way but otherwise it seemed possible to use a smear. If its harder than 7B+ then so be it - I will report back (...this may be some time, bit of a trek from Manc!!)

Kingy

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Did this using all the chips today, here is a short vid. I decided to move on to more classic problems rather than attempt to eliminate chips as life is too short!  :) The first few moves up the arete are hard and worthwhile.


 

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