[webbo]

I can’t work out whether you dislike the world or yourself the most.

[user deactivated]

Wow 

[user deactivated]

Anyway back on the esoteric grit. The start to Saltation. What’s the deal? It must step of the block? Then a long move or high step to the break. Harder than the snowball grade of v6 given on ukc I thought

[webbo]

You seem to have a go at everything that does not fit with your view of the world.
With the implication that if anyone should criticise you will stop posting.
Which would be shame as do I like your stuff.

[mark20]

Anyway back on the esoteric grit. The start to Saltation. What’s the deal? It must step of the block? Then a long move or high step to the break. Harder than the snowball grade of v6 given on ukc I thought

I think the V6 grade mentioned is for the top bit - the lower part was well buried 2013!

I heard some pebbles snapped on Turtle Power so that may be why that feels hard? But I can't remember where I heard that.
Speaking of snapped pebbles, have you heard of anyone doing Salmon Direct at Bamford in the last couple of years? It felt really hard, and when I checked the sequence on Shock/Consumed vid when I got home I thought it must have lost a pebble or two

[user deactivated]

Webbo, I’m just being a knob. Honestly I would pretty much ignore 90% of what I write.

[user deactivated]

Hey up Mark! Do you mean smoked salmon the e8 7b? Or the original Salmon.

I see now about saltation. Mega looking bottom bit. The lower crux felt about 7a+/b on ab.

[user deactivated]

Plus the hand placed peg is absolutely solid. Decided not to try ground up as didn’t want to be thrashing around on that placement

[webbo]

Webbo, I’m just being a knob. Honestly I would pretty much ignore 90% of what I write.

Including the above.

[user deactivated]

It’s an open expression of ambivalence.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ambivalence

[Nigel]

I see now about saltation. Mega looking bottom bit. The lower crux felt about 7a+/b on ab.

I've abbed this too. Lower crux steps off the boulder onto crimpy sidepulls, trending up and right. No way its 7a+/b, you missed have missed something Dan, as with your steely fingers I'd have thought it'd feel fine. Fingers do need to be well warmed up though as it is bouldery. The top bit (Exaltation section) is definitely slightly harder although different in style. Very unobvious and slopey / conditionsey. Great route, keen to get back. P.s. first peg slot also takes a bomber ball nut if you have them.

Speaking of snapped pebbles, have you heard of anyone doing Salmon Direct at Bamford in the last couple of years? It felt really hard, and when I checked the sequence on Shock/Consumed vid when I got home I thought it must have lost a pebble or two

Not heard of anyone doing this recently Mark, though you never know. Have tried it very briefly on ab, the move up for the slopey edge would have been easier with an extra pebble or two for sure. I nearly did the move by wrapping a left thumb round an OK pebble and bouncing up off a left foot pebble but it started to rain before I actually managed it. Hitting but not hanging. Its a long dynamic move to a bad hold so its possible that my "feeling close" was actually "a miss is as good as a mile". Watching the Scut vid it actually is similar to how he does it. Having a brand new left boot would probably help enormously. Again something I'm keen to go back to.

Thinking bout these two it would be a good challenge to do all the Dawes routes on Peak grit, wonder if anyone (except Dawes) has done that? Angel's Share and Smoked Salmon are probably the stoppers, and I'm not aware of anyone who has done both, so maybe not? If either of you are getting out on these any time and need a partner give me a try.

[Tom de Gay]

Shortly after Scut’s ascent Of Smoked Salmon a keen youth apparently snapped an important pebble whilst on the sharp end, but topped it out anyway (sound familiar?). Not sure it’s been done since.


There were stories about hold loss on Turtle Power back in the day, at least that was the standard excuse. Surely El Mocho has done it?

[user deactivated]

Hey up chaps, yeah it wasn’t exactly ideal up there yesterday being blown around in a force nine gale, also had a poor nights sleep and woke up with a cold, plus my IBS was playing up so not surprising it felt hard (does anyone have any other good excuses? I’m running low 😂). Funnily I was looking for info on turtle power and found el mocho mentioning it in an interview for dmm. It was quite a nice interview as he reflected on when ‘hard’ stuff feels easy and ‘easy’ stuff feels hard “I guess that’s the way it goes” Nice philosophy.

I’ll take the steely fingers compliment Nige but according to my 1 armed hang edge ability, I’m weaker than a new born kitten

[El Mocho]

There were stories about hold loss on Turtle Power back in the day, at least that was the standard excuse. Surely El Mocho has done it?

I wasn't going to say anything as it maybe will make me sound like a knob...

I think some pebbles snapped off the start (and there is no sign of the rps mentioned in the guide)

I went up the bottom wall a little to the right of the original line (but still left of the arete) and then did the next section via a hard undercut move, then gets easier...

Knob bit - I rope soloed it for no real reason other than being on my own that day. I did do it in approach shoes (these mega Evolv ones I have) as it made it easier - I was jumping to the first break and it was nicer landing in trainers (I had no pads with me) and also the foot holds I used were big smeary ones. For the next bit (maybe the crux, with the undercuts) it was easier in my trainers - high foot on a massive smeary hold, power stand up into undercut. Fell off the time I tried it in rock boots.

There have been a few other routes I've found to be easier in these trainers - I even went so far as to get a pair a size smaller(Skidoo left, Darkness falling... any problem at the works standing on volumes)

[Tom de Gay]

Agadoo at Leashaw Brow fits the niche criteria, decent bit of climbing and no harder than E6.

[Fiend]

There you go Dan, just do it in trainers 

Matlock esoterica in general is a good plan.

[user deactivated]

The undercut sequence did look / feel very powerful. I wondered if it would have felt easier when not trying to pull on from dangling. There is a pebble cluster above the break which has snapped with 1/2 really sharp big pebble left standing. Think I may just have to consider that one above my pay grade Fiend 😂. Waddage to el mocho for that sequence / ascent!

[mark20]

Speaking of snapped pebbles, have you heard of anyone doing Salmon Direct at Bamford in the last couple of years? It felt really hard, and when I checked the sequence on Shock/Consumed vid when I got home I thought it must have lost a pebble or two

Not heard of anyone doing this recently Mark, though you never know. Have tried it very briefly on ab, the move up for the slopey edge would have been easier with an extra pebble or two for sure. I nearly did the move by wrapping a left thumb round an OK pebble and bouncing up off a left foot pebble but it started to rain before I actually managed it. Hitting but not hanging. Its a long dynamic move to a bad hold so its possible that my "feeling close" was actually "a miss is as good as a mile". Watching the Scut vid it actually is similar to how he does it. Having a brand new left boot would probably help enormously. Again something I'm keen to go back to.

Thinking bout these two it would be a good challenge to do all the Dawes routes on Peak grit, wonder if anyone (except Dawes) has done that? Angel's Share and Smoked Salmon are probably the stoppers, and I'm not aware of anyone who has done both, so maybe not? If either of you are getting out on these any time and need a partner give me a try.

Franco did the move on Smoked Salmon that way.

Sorry I actually meant the first move to leave the break on Salmon Original / Direct, seen here (he finishes up the Original)

I think the pebble he uses with his RH is gone.

This describes the line quite well http://www.oocities.org/yosemite//4755/climbing/topos/salmon.html

[andy popp]

This describes the line quite well http://www.oocities.org/yosemite//4755/climbing/topos/salmon.html

From the notes on The Salmon "Reclimbed by Dawes 1995, after it lost a crucial pebble (used to rock up onto to gain the far right-hand pockets)." Anyone know when the pebble referred to went? Aking a friend (actually, I onsighted The Salmon in 1991 and am wondering what state I did it in).

[user deactivated]

Yarp yarp yarp


https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/07/the-journey-begins/

[user deactivated]

Warning don’t read mid ancap base phase as it may disrupt the hyper vascularisation process.

https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/08/dharma-driven/

[user deactivated]

I’ve got a board in my back garden, it’s got no holds on it and I don’t climb. I often recline under it stretching my hips and reciting Vogon poetry lit up by a portable lamp used by lampers. It annoys the shit out of the neighbour.

  https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/09/flexible-mindless/

[user deactivated]

Guest ‘poet’ doylo99

https://thelifetimeesotericticklist.wordpress.com/2019/04/10/my-jokeman/

[user deactivated]

Grainy beta vid of a nice wall climb in Anglezarke. Climbed redpoint style on tied off pegs and some pro low down. Very good effort of Jordan onsighting this. Particularly considering the hold visibility and technicality of it.



On a slightly different note I climbed sole survivor the day before. Headed there expecting a bit of an unsung gem only to find a top rope problem caked in chalk and smiley ticks literally everywhere. Spent a good 45 mins cleaning then tied off the pegs. I thought it was probably e3 6b doing it this way. Did fall off the top moves which are tricky.

It made me think of crags and climbs that are becoming like ‘sacrificial lambs’. ‘My first e6 headpoint’ get on it 🤯
 

[ashtond6]

it was probably e3 6b doing it this way. Did fall off the top moves which are tricky.

Give over.
Several very good climbers didnt onsight it.
E3