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Esoteric ‘backwater’ lifetime grit tick list (Read 34835 times)

SA Chris

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It would be nice to visit a good crag in Yorkshire for a change to the usual cow shit, scrittle, miserable buggers and soft touches

Anywhere bit Almscliffe then. We used to make it a policy to never deliberately go there on a weekend, as you would always end up defaulting to there at some point.

Will Hunt

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Dave Warbs did some stuff at Eavestone over the weekend.

Strange Attractor which has had a couple of ascents since I cleaned it. He said it was an easy start into a poky couple of moves and a thank-god tree root at the top (which you may have to dig out). Said it could feel more like 6b if you used a pocket for (poor?) gear. A bit poky for an E3 6a matless solo.

He also did Touching The Void above a couple of pads, though I've done this with a runner on the tree to the right.

And he cleaned and soloed Don't Worry, I'm a Nurse. I think he said that was something like 6/7m of unprotected 6a off the floor to a break then slots, flatties, and "dusty bilge" to the top.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt_FuCAhC1Y/?utm_source=ig_web_options_share_sheet


There's a really nice couple of days of clean trad to be had at Eavestone between HVS and E3/4.

Fiend

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Nice one. Never got back in Autumn before i spannered myself. Any slabs there? I've done King Of The Castle or whatever it was....

Will Hunt

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What do you consider to be a slab. I don't there's any friction slabs there. It's all walls.

webbo

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Dave Warbs did some stuff at Eavestone over the weekend

And he cleaned and soloed Don't Worry, I'm a Nurse. I think he said that was something like 6/7m of unprotected 6a off the floor to a break then slots, flatties, and "dusty bilge" to the top.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt_FuCAhC1Y/?utm_source=ig_web_options_share_sheet


There's a really nice couple of days of clean trad to be had at Eavestone between HVS and E3/4.
There used to be a couple of bomber rps in the crack 27 years ago.

Fiend

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Dave has been notably shit at spotting blindingly obvious gear tho.

Will, find me more slabs please, thanks.

Alex-the-Alex

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Have you done the Crow Crag ones?

Will Hunt

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I don't know how you can say he's notably shit at finding gear. I can't think of any times when he's missed an obvious placement.

And to be fair to him he was at the crag on his own and soloed the routes above a pad or two, so probably didn't look very hard for gear that he wasn't going to use.

Actually, thinking about it, I don't think he mentioned a lack of gear in the crack. I think that was me making an assumption.

dunnyg

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Fake news Will, always muddying the waters. What am I supposed to believe now?  :shrug:

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It would be nice to visit a good crag in Yorkshire for a change to the usual cow shit, scrittle, miserable buggers and soft touches

Anywhere bit Almscliffe then. We used to make it a policy to never deliberately go there on a weekend, as you would always end up defaulting to there at some point.

Almscliffe comes second in line to Brimham as one of the most over rated crags in Britain

36chambers

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Almscliffe comes second in line to Brimham as one of the most over rated crags in Britain

Agreed

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Yeah it’s like some sort of mass delusion backed up by hysterical Yorkshiremen

tomtom

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It would be nice to visit a good crag in Yorkshire for a change to the usual cow shit, scrittle, miserable buggers and soft touches

Anywhere bit Almscliffe then. We used to make it a policy to never deliberately go there on a weekend, as you would always end up defaulting to there at some point.

Almscliffe comes second in line to Brimham as one of the most over rated crags in Britain

Didn’t we once have a conversation about Almscliff where you said there wasn’t anywhere (or very few places) with such a concentration and number of problems? :)

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Who with me? No way. I’ve always maintained it’s a cow pat strewn hell hole. Don’t try any mind tricks on me mate, I’ve broken out of the matrix ✌️

tomtom

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teestub

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Don’t try any mind tricks on me mate, I’ve broken out of the matrix ✌️

Joined Andy Kirkpatrick taking the red pill!

You should probably get them to take you off the crag front page  :lol:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=538

Fiend

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Almscliff is terrible and people only climb there because it dries instantly. The worst crag in Yorkshire in the most conditions-fortunate location.

Will: he missed about a rack's worth of gear on an E3 FA on the North York Moors coast, admittedly a good route.

Alex: I went there, it was scrittly and even the warm-up E2 was sketchy. I might have grovelled my way over the top of the thing on the E3/4 on the left with the proper sized cam. The right hand slab looked very hard all round.

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Don’t try any mind tricks on me mate, I’ve broken out of the matrix ✌️

Joined Andy Kirkpatrick taking the red pill!

You should probably get them to take you off the crag front page  :lol:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=538

I don’t know what you’re on about but I’m certainly not joining him doing anything. Not unless I wanted the piss taken out of me intolerably or the red pill zombied me out somehow? Anyway who tf is that guy? Not me cos he’s got hair! You know what I mean.....

SA Chris

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Almscliff is terrible and people only climb there because it dries instantly.

And it's easy to get to for a quick hit from Leeds.

Johnny Brown

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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.

spidermonkey09

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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.

Testify! There is a reason its popular beyond the fact its close to Leeds...

andy popp

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Its obviously a very good crag, its also obviously very over-hyped.

cheque

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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.

 :agree: I love it despite getting spanked most times I go.

This forum feels like an outlet for people who don’t like cliffs or climbers some days.  :shrug:

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Almscliff is one of the best crags on grit, it just doesn't suffer fools.

What does that mean JB? Can’t see what the climbing difficulty has to do with the general vibe of the place and not liking it. Over populated cow pat strewn wind tunnel it is 😉. Mass delusion propagated by hysterical Yorkshiremen and new wave sniffy hipsters.

andy popp

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I may actually have come up with a good suggestion - "Over the Moors" (E5 6b) at the Ravenstones. Looks like a blank grit slab - which it is - that just happens to have a perfect gear slot right where you want it, very unusual. Lovely place, other good routes to do and likely to be quiet. Only downside is that the route is also likely to be green after winter.

 

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