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C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3 (Read 10502 times)

spidermonkey09

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#25 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 05, 2019, 10:27:50 am
Struggling to remember this week now.

M -  rest.

T - enforced rest due to work perk at Old Trafford. Football was good, the work chat less so. Not cut out for the corporate life!

W - Depot. Really good session on the board, continuing the theme of the first session of the week being the best. Did the crimpy thing I'd been trying (36C endorsed the quality of the problem) and started trying Steady Intro. Desperate. Finished with some FOC to try and kickstart some fitness training. Not as bad as expected after a few months off. A set of 1 min on, 1 min off x 8 was manageable without getting above about 6/10 pump. Need to try and ensure I'm doing a move a second though.

T - Depot. Second day on predictably difficult. Made some reasonable progress on another problem which shouldn't take too long...

F - drove to the Lakes in the evening.

S - amazing walk from Troutbeck along the ridge to Thornthwaite Crag, snow lined the entire way. Original intention was to go all the way to High Street but the final 500m breaking trail through the snow to the summit of TC was desperate and convinced us enough was enough. A wise decision as the descent to Troutbeck Tongue was knee deep powder the entire way. Reached the valley at dusk to see an incredible sunset and the final 5k ish along the flat path wasn't as painful as I feared. Utterly broken after this; dinner and a few beers at the ODG has never tasted so good. God the Lakes is amazing when you catch it in good conditions.

S - woke up in Langdale to discover brooding morning. Started snowing making coffee so bailed to Ambleside for lunch and coffee before driving back to Leeds. Would have been nice to potter on something but considering the quality of the previous day can't complain.

Ill yesterday but back at work today. Will probably go to the Depot as normal but take it steady to try and avoid getting ill again...

andy_e

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#26 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 05, 2019, 10:59:16 am
I reckon your illness was caught from someone down the wall climbing whilst contagious...

spidermonkey09

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#27 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 05, 2019, 11:15:27 am
Haha, if I'm 'well' enough to go to work then sadly for everyone at the Depot I'm well enough to go climbing as well to cheer myself up! Sorry Cheque... :sorry:

Flicking through Twitter yesterday at home to discover yesterday was actually 'National Sickie Day'; sods law!

SA Chris

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#28 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 05, 2019, 11:59:32 am
Wish I'd known that, I'd have sacked it off and gone ski touring for the day. As it is, Lochangar merely mocks me through the window as I sit at my desk.

36chambers

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#29 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 06, 2019, 01:47:13 pm
T - went to Caley thinking it'd be wet with all the fog about. Amazed to find it bone dry. It was about -4'C; cheating cons basically but only if you could stay warm. After warming up I managed Juju Club 2nd go, then Zoo Stand first go which was a massive confidence boost. Went from the start once on Zoo and matched my high point again, then after a couple more tries did the deadpoint/cut loose link. Unfortunately at that point everyone else who's pads were under the problem got too cold and left. Repeated Blockbuster twice with the jump start and had lots of goes at the low, feeling sort of close. Finally, I went down to Crystal Method and managed the retro-flash, which I'm about as chuffed with as anything I've ever done in climbing.

On my way home went to the Depot and did about an hour on the 50. Mainly tried easier stuff and enjoyed trying a new one from Tom F.

strong day, allez :strongbench:

Will Hunt

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#30 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 06, 2019, 03:07:20 pm
T - went to Caley thinking it'd be wet with all the fog about. Amazed to find it bone dry. It was about -4'C; cheating cons basically but only if you could stay warm. After warming up I managed Juju Club 2nd go, then Zoo Stand first go which was a massive confidence boost. Went from the start once on Zoo and matched my high point again, then after a couple more tries did the deadpoint/cut loose link. Unfortunately at that point everyone else who's pads were under the problem got too cold and left. Repeated Blockbuster twice with the jump start and had lots of goes at the low, feeling sort of close. Finally, I went down to Crystal Method and managed the retro-flash, which I'm about as chuffed with as anything I've ever done in climbing.

On my way home went to the Depot and did about an hour on the 50. Mainly tried easier stuff and enjoyed trying a new one from Tom F.

strong day, allez :strongbench:

I have to admit that I was a little shocked at the amount of climbing that was described in one day.
Bradders, you must have a pass for the Depot? I can't imagine paying to just call in for an hour. Do you think the post-climbing 50 board session is particularly useful? Presumably you're getting powered out by that point?

Bradders

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#31 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 06, 2019, 07:01:10 pm
strong day, allez :strongbench:

Cheers! Like I say, cheating cons.

I have to admit that I was a little shocked at the amount of climbing that was described in one day.
Bradders, you must have a pass for the Depot? I can't imagine paying to just call in for an hour. Do you think the post-climbing 50 board session is particularly useful? Presumably you're getting powered out by that point?

Haha well if you think about it when you do things first or second go you're not actually doing that much climbing  ;D it's something I've been trying to improve on recently, doing things that are hard for me but not really near my limit either first go or within a couple of goes (hence my 'one attempt only' sessions mentioned in previous PC entries).

Yes I have a pass; I live <5mins drive or 10-15mins walk away, and it's right on my way home from Caley so tend to be able to nip in quite quickly.

I think it could be useful, depending on how you do it. What I tried to do was treat it as a strength/power endurance session, I.e. doing relatively easy problems with short rests inbetween,  as opposed to a limit boulder session wherein I would normally take 5 mins rest or so at least and concentrate on much harder problems. However, I definitely did still over-cook it as when I went back to Zoo on Saturday I was clearly not rested enough.

I think if you were planning to maybe just do some conditioning the following day, with a rest day after that, I think it would work really well in terms of creating a big base of power volume, the goal being to build fitness and have a greater overall work capacity (thus allowing more quality attempts in a session when trying a project, or being able to do a greater volume of slightly below limit problems).

gollum

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#32 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 06, 2019, 09:15:37 pm
strong day, allez :strongbench:

Cheers! Like I say, cheating cons.

I have to admit that I was a little shocked at the amount of climbing that was described in one day.
Bradders, you must have a pass for the Depot? I can't imagine paying to just call in for an hour. Do you think the post-climbing 50 board session is particularly useful? Presumably you're getting powered out by that point?

Haha well if you think about it when you do things first or second go you're not actually doing that much climbing  ;D it's something I've been trying to improve on recently, doing things that are hard for me but not really near my limit either first go or within a couple of goes (hence my 'one attempt only' sessions mentioned in previous PC entries).

Yes I have a pass; I live <5mins drive or 10-15mins walk away, and it's right on my way home from Caley so tend to be able to nip in quite quickly.

I think it could be useful, depending on how you do it. What I tried to do was treat it as a strength/power endurance session, I.e. doing relatively easy problems with short rests inbetween,  as opposed to a limit boulder session wherein I would normally take 5 mins rest or so at least and concentrate on much harder problems. However, I definitely did still over-cook it as when I went back to Zoo on Saturday I was clearly not rested enough.

I think if you were planning to maybe just do some conditioning the following day, with a rest day after that, I think it would work really well in terms of creating a big base of power volume, the goal being to build fitness and have a greater overall work capacity (thus allowing more quality attempts in a session when trying a project, or being able to do a greater volume of slightly below limit problems).

Good effort. Have to say if you want to train and feel you can train you should train.

highrepute

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#33 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 06, 2019, 09:43:43 pm
if you want to train and feel you can train you should train.

Amen

highrepute

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#34 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 06, 2019, 09:48:05 pm
Bit tardy again  :chair:

M - Voyager V - back on track with this session. best go got me 2 cm from latching the crux move from the start, which is a new high point. managed to have quite a few goes with fatigue stopping play rather than skin. the split from last session did reopen but taped up and still got to high point which is encouraging. Learnt that I definitely need very good conditions on this, I'm not strong enough for it to be marginal.

W - Works - trying to find a way to emulate the moves on voyager but struggled really. wish I still had my board up :( The motherboard and steep stuff is probably the best option.

A good week on Voyager but concerned that life maybe be getting back in the way, worryingly might not be able to get out this week or next...

Footwork

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#35 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 06, 2019, 10:00:04 pm
Mon
Tues
Weds
Thurs
Fri
Sat - Stole Will's car aerial and he still hasn't realised...
Sun

Will Hunt

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#36 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 06, 2019, 10:11:04 pm
 :lol: :lol: :lol:

spidermonkey09

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#37 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 07, 2019, 07:50:48 am
[
. What I tried to do was treat it as a strength/power endurance session, I.e. doing relatively easy problems with short rests inbetween,  as opposed to a limit boulder session wherein I would normally take 5 mins rest or so at least and concentrate on much harder problems. However, I definitely did still over-cook it as when I went back to Zoo on Saturday I was clearly not rested enough.

I think if you were planning to maybe just do some conditioning the following day, with a rest day after that, I think it would work really well in terms of creating a big base of power volume, the goal being to build fitness and have a greater overall work capacity (thus allowing more quality attempts in a session when trying a project, or being able to do a greater volume of slightly below limit problems).

I think this is the key issue. My session fitness for harder bouldering is pitiful so I can't fathom the concept of doing anpow training second block of the day, after an initial session of anpow in the morning!. The only way I would get two sessions out of myself in a day is doing the strength based stuff first up followed by some more endurancey things later, circuits, FOC etc.

That said I think you're right that it should definitely help build session fitness and perhaps explains why days like the above which make will and I widen eyes in horror are no huge deal for you and Gollum!

tomtom

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#38 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 07, 2019, 08:34:04 am
Wish I had more session fitness (Shark is good at this btw) but I simply don’t have the time to train it. I get (and consider myself fortunate) opps to do 2-3 c.90-120 min sessions (outside or inside) a week - and this mostly ends up focusing on trying to do hard shit :)

cheque

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#39 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 07, 2019, 09:54:27 am
Can’t speak for anyone else but I’m massively invested in the Voyager story James!

Haha well if you think about it when you do things first or second go you're not actually doing that much climbing  ;D

This is what I was thinking. Assuming the “lots of” goes at Blockbuster low were about 5-10 it’s only 15-20 pull-ons at Caley plus an hour or so on the board which can’t be that many goes. All hard moves though obviously.  :bow:

TomTom- doesn’t sound like you’d have any use for better session fitness?

Man I wish I had my session fitness back!
« Last Edit: February 07, 2019, 10:04:50 am by cheque »

slab_happy

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#40 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 07, 2019, 10:10:01 am
T. PM Foundry autobelay laps. Met Slab Happy

 :wave:

tomtom

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#41 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 07, 2019, 10:25:41 am

TomTom- doesn’t sound like you’d have any use for better session fitness?

Quite possibly. Though sometimes it’s frustrating when I’m working a problem - have 3-4 decent attempts and am then goosed. May well be linked to not resting enough (between attempts and/or between sessions) of the vicious circle of not having any session stamina to train my session stamina :D

Though I was alright yesterday. Sometimes it’s really hard to gauge how problems at your limit suck the strength out of you. Or not as is sometimes the case.

I may be waffling....
« Last Edit: February 07, 2019, 10:35:50 am by tomtom »

36chambers

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#42 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 07, 2019, 10:28:27 am
Can’t speak for anyone else but I’m massively invested in the Voyager story James!

Same, I'm finding it really inspiring :strongbench:

This is what I was thinking. Assuming the “lots of” goes at Blockbuster low were about 5-10 it’s only 15-20 pull-ons at Caley plus an hour or so on the board which can’t be that many goes. All hard moves though obviously.  :bow:

I feel knackered after trying to keep warm for a few hours.

tommytwotone

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#43 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 07, 2019, 01:01:47 pm
Wish I had more session fitness (Shark is good at this btw) but I simply don’t have the time to train it. I get (and consider myself fortunate) opps to do 2-3 c.90-120 min sessions (outside or inside) a week - and this mostly ends up focusing on trying to do hard shit :)

The penultimate Dissect (the Mark Twight) podcast includes a guy who's some badass Jiu Jitsu fighter. There's a lot of stuff in there about how being fitter so you can train more / operate better in your sport is important.

Worth a listen.




cheque

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#44 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 07, 2019, 01:29:39 pm

TomTom- doesn’t sound like you’d have any use for better session fitness?

Quite possibly. Though sometimes it’s frustrating when I’m working a problem - have 3-4 decent attempts and am then goosed. May well be linked to not resting enough (between attempts and/or between sessions) of the vicious circle of not having any session stamina to train my session stamina :D

Timed rests is a good way to work on it. Try doing a problem then having a few minutes rest, doing it again then having the same amount of rest, maybe repeat this five times with the same rest period each time.

Next session do the same problem the same number of times but reduce the time of each rest by an equal amount. Then reduce it again next session and so on.

Makes a massive difference to how quick you recover, which gives you session fitness. I’ve only done it with routes but I imagine it crosses over to problems. The tough bit will be finding a problem that’s of the right difficulty and, assuming you do it indoors, won’t be reset.

Bradders

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#45 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 07, 2019, 07:42:31 pm
The only way I would get two sessions out of myself in a day is doing the strength based stuff first up followed by some more endurancey things later, circuits, FOC etc.

Yeah I think that's the best way to do two sessions in a day. I think max fingerboarding followed by limit bouldering can work well too.

Timed rests is a good way to work on it.

Yeah, that's basically what I try to do albeit doing different problems rather than the same ones. Works really well for bouldering and I think having a higher work capacity is a really important aspect of trying stuff at your limit.

Wood FT

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#46 Re: C’est La Vie Club 465 Jan 28 - Mar 3
February 08, 2019, 06:49:19 am
Can’t speak for anyone else but I’m massively invested in the Voyager story James!

Same, I'm finding it really inspiring :strongbench:

+2, keep it going HR

 

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