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Sucess Visualisation Space 466 4th - 10th Feb 2019 (Read 12514 times)

tomtom

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Evenin all.

We: Finally got Zippys done at Plantation (comedy fall at 10 secs and please don’t watch the bicycling top out..) But dead chuffed to get it done at last. Not the most graceful of my attempts but it worked..



Dolly then sandbagged me big time on Silk... You can tell he’s been hanging out with Lagers....

Fri: Crap weather. Depot. Had to climb in trainers as my right big toe was bruised (some how did that on weds I think) more than the usual rock boot pain. V4 circuit was very tough in places without rock boots... triceps felt beasted afterwards.

Sa > Su. Drove to Oxford and back for a family 60th....

nai

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Well done, Tom. So solid

M - ill
30 mins LI
think I did some mobility.

T - ill
short bodyweight circuit
bar core

W - ill
30 mins LI

Th - ill
Bar Core
Mini works with daughter.

Fri - ill
short bodyweight circuit
floor core

S - ill & hungover
30 mins LI

S - nowt

Ok work in the circumstances - felt shit, had no transport and the weather was cack.  Off to Wales this week, weather looks ok for bouldering and should be warm enough for routes on the coasts and outcrops.


shark

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Nice one TT. You're on a roll


M Albarracín. Techno’s sector. Chilly. Some snow on ground. Blown away by rock architecture and stillness. Went on some easy problems that turned out to not to be easy at all. Then we all had a go at a burly 7A traverse. Did it in 3 sections and felt busted. Managed to do 6c and called it a day.

T Valle de Madeira. Warm ups then a pair of vert problems at 6C and 7A. Then spent a lot of time on a hard 7A prow Maximo Exponente which none of us did. Tried a big roof round the side Itchi 7A+ but too tired. Flashed a short 6C+ rib just below. Then a couple of half hearted and tired goes on a highball 7A Cagon Boy with a grim top out which Paul bravely topped

W

T Arrastradero sector. Masses of world class problems so after warming up I got stuck on a mediocre 7A (Proyecto Misha) with a desperate sit start off two sideholds miles apart and tiny footholds which my feet kept popping off. Big mistake. An hour of this left me fucked and worse with a hole in my fingers. Did a classy burly rib El Esquinazo 6C and worked the moves on Zig Zag 7A an amazing huecoed roof.

F Got some superglue to tape finger up. Sector Entreagus. Did a steep rising traverese 6C from start of Mandingus to start then we all go stuck into Mandingus 7A a jutting roof (later found it was graded 7A+ and 7B elsewhere). Couldn’t do the crocodile wresting topout or the move across the roof. Heel toe stayed in when I fell off on one go and somehow kicked the mat away with other foot and back connected with a protruding rock when I landed. Ouch. Ran out of beans. We moved on to Regleta Fantasma 7A a tricky short wall. Again lots of goes and no success. Finished off on Senora Laja 6C - a tough low roof.

S

S Finger still needed taping back still sore. Techos. Chilly good conditions. Did some warm ups then struggled on a steep 6C. Had no lock left in arms and core was shot. Managed to do it in the end. Went on another 6C but could only do it from standing, Called it a day.

Whilst I didn’t have any expectations coming to Albarracin I’ve been appalled at my performance here and feel like Ive had a hard kick in the aspirationals. Spending four or five hours each day failing mainly on 7A’s has left me totally battered. Rather than dig myself deeper into a hole I'm going to stop digging which unfortunately means passing up the opportunity to climb tomorrow which is the last day. Hopefully there will be some payback. Find out when I get back. 

Me at end of today





« Last Edit: February 10, 2019, 07:10:31 pm by shark »

teestub

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Is 7A a grade you often climb in a session at new venues Shark?

shark

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Is 7A a grade you often climb in a session at new venues Shark?

Yes

tomtom

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Where’s your head gone?
Were you mid visualisation?

teestub

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Yes

How many new 7’s have you done in a session in the last year?

shark

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No idea. Where is this going?

teestub

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Apologies, I was just trying to put your performance into context for the last year; I know from your entries that you’ve spent a lot of time sport climbing and a lot of time working boulder projects. I have had previous trips where I have been disappointed as I though I should be climbing grade (x) as I had just climbed grade (x+2) at home, without factoring in how much effort I had put into that particular problem.

As we are all about visualisation, flow and mind state at the moment, I thought I would add perception of self and honest self appraisal into the mix.

Will Hunt

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Fuck me, Shark. No climbing tomorrow? What's that supposed to achieve? You might never go to Albarracin again in your life. Tape your finger, get out onto the rock, and enjoy climbing some quality easy problems. Just enjoy the feeling of rock in your hands. It doesn't all have to be about grades.

duncan

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What Will said (see also below).

STG: Manage aches and pains.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this winter, Colorado bucket list routes in May, a classic E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

M - Shoulder strength (reverse flys - Is Ys and Ts - on the rings, side planks, crawling, single arm push-ups). 9km brisk walking.
T - Westway bouldering (to ‘V3’).
W - Shoulder strength.
T - Westway. Tweaked right elbow during warm-up.
F - 10km brisk walking.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups 18mm edge (left arm only). 300m step-ups. 12km brisk walking.
S - Shoulder strength. Hip/knee strength. 10km brisk walking.

Ill and low mood again this week. Weight unchanged. Pissed off about tweaking elbow again one week before Spain. Should probably have taken it easier given all the other current stressors and certainly should have taken longer over warm-up. I can kiss goodbye to 7b+ this trip, so emphasis will be on enjoying climbing. It's probably what I need most of all. If it also counts as building a base in preparation for the trad. season then even better.

Will Hunt

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T - Depot. Warmed up and did a really nice arete problem (number 27 on the new pink circuit). Did it second go and then secretly watched Mark Katz take more goes to do it. So I'm better than Katz now. Which is nice.
Board. Busy scene. Basically spent the whole session on Austrian Mock. Felt like I was pathing the start until Throw To Horn which is really cool since it felt difficult a few weeks ago. Didn't do the crux in a link but felt close. Towards the end of the session tried some different foot beta (RF blue, LF green) which makes Throw To Horn loads easier. This should go next week now, or else I'm Simon Lee. Despite not doing it I'm really pleased with how much better I'm now climbing on the board. This is somewhat tempered by the reality that this is unlikely due to any strength gain and more likely due to getting more used to the technique.
Then pottering on pinks at the end. Have lately been spending the last 20 mins or so on the circuit board. Not with much science, just trying to get pumped to build some fitness before lime season begins. I'm aiming for aerocap but not sure if I'm hitting a low enough intensity, or even if this is what I should be doing (I could do foot on campussing instead)?

Su - out most of the day with the family. Got home about 4 and popped to the Glen for a few hours. Intended to look at Double D but it was seeping heavily. Did a nice traverse then a few easy highballs I've not done before. Did the Block Traverse which was lovely delicate slab crimping with a cool pebble sprag at the end. Then went to seek out the traverses below Red Baron. JD's looks nails and is completely mossed. Longy's needs a brush. Spent a while working the start of Monkey Business and it took far too long to figure out but got it done eventually.

gme

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Mon- moonboard. Working my way through benchmarks upto 6C+. Tried a few 7s but no joy. Body is feeling tired now so guessing performance isn’t the target.
Tues- school. Max hangs on 10mms plus 5kg. One arm hangs on bar for shoulder engagement.
Wed- lunch ancap session. Boulder triples. Increased problem grade and felt hard. Fell on a few. PM 1on 1off at school. Rings to finish.
Thurs- rest. Long day in London.
Fri - maxhangs 10mms + 10kg. Hard
Sat- limit bouldering on valley 50. Then ancap boulder triples on 12-15 move problems. Totally broken.
Sun.- rest. Watching son play rugby.

Finally got through to my 1st big rest period this year. In Germany with work so no climbing until Thursday at earliest. Really happy with my consistency and gains but taken a bit to get used to feeling tired all the time and not really having any of those springy magic sessions. Hopefully I will after a good rest.
52 separate sessions on the crimpd app completed since 1st Jan.

Weight static at 81.6 kg. German sausage and beer probably won’t help this.
Still very motivated though and can’t wait to get back at it.

gollum

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M - Solid rings session for TRX push followed by a steady 5k on the treadmill.
Evening was doing 5x3 problems on 50 at Depot. Solid on top half of ZY replicas, including the Medium/Hard one. Then on to AM. Plan was split in half and do as five move intervals, but on first go felt strong and went all the way through to complete the problem, although was trying hard and was wasted on the next interval. Moved on to other things and was please up to the last problem, by which time I was powered out. Happy with the session.

T - Power Triples at Big Depot at lunchtime. Purples which went well and think I got the level about right, although it was bitterly cold on my hands the first set but got going soon after.

W - Push day. Bench for paused doubles up to 80k and the doubles to 100k. Feeling good. Then on to shoulder presses with the weight creeping up and the control being good. Finish off with some floor presses, dips and close grip presses.

T - Depot in the evening working on new comp problems. Got some good ticks, made a couple of silly mistakes but overall did okay all not as well as last month. Of the ones I haven’t done I am confident about a couple of them.

F- Steady 5 on 3 off session at the Big Depot. Working at around 6b+ which felt spot on. A very light pump in my forearms but never overly taxing.

S - Well rested for a push day. 5x5 Bench @ 85k, followed by triples on Decline up to 90k and Incline DB. Finished off with some shoulder work of presses and raises which IO haven’t done for a while but I should probably do a bit of more frequently. Plan to do accessory work at the end of every session, just the one exercise I reckon.
Double run, 5k on treadmill and then 5k out on hills with Mrs B, all good for my head.

S - Pull weights. Start with OAP. RH solid, LH not really firing today. Then move on to weighted pull ups. 6 x 2 with BW plus 40k, then 3 sets of 5 reps with 20k and 5 sets at BW. Some pull down on the machine, two handed to 120k, one handed to 85k. Finished with some shoulder activations.
Ran on treadmill for 5k and then ran home looking for hills and getting up to another 5k.

A pretty good week. Climbed quite a lot and got some good stuff done. Less on the weights this week but plenty of running.

Lots if socialising this week and loads of beer and pizza, which will not be good for the body but good to kick back every now and then.

andy popp

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I was exhausted just reading that Shark. It sounds like you were running around like a headless chicken. On trips away to new venues there are probably two broad strategies: focus, or drop your grade - it sounds like you didn't really do either, with the predictable result that you just got more and more battered. Sounds like there were some poor problem choices too. And I agree with Will and Duncan, going and just enjoy some easy climbing tomorrow.

highrepute

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52 separate sessions on the crimpd app completed since 1st Jan.


Wow, that's impressive.

Burn out a risk? Is there value in training tired do you think?

highrepute

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M - Works - mainly on the motherboard. Not been on it for a few months and felt very weak on it compared to previous levels, struggling on the 7as now - probably just neurological and will come back quickly. Made a little voyager problem that i was too tired to send. It's called French Start 7b for anyone interested (the second move should be done as a crossover). Disclaimer - it's nothing like voyager.         

Thu - Works - mainly on the comp wall but went back to my Voyager problem on the motherboard and did it first go. the motherboard doesn't really lend itself to make replicas of problems, every climb on it is very similar... front on, cut-loose quite a lot, works the fingers... ideal for training but not for emulating a style of climbing.

Wasn't able to find time to get out onto Voyager this week. The various goings on in my life seem to be hotting up so getting harder to get out. Perhaps a 7am session on Thursday possible - catch the cooler temps that way.

In the meantime keep visualising!



Here's my best go, which is from session V.

jamesturnbull97

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Back to reality after last weeks skiing and sadly the life of a full time climber for the past 8 months since finishing uni has come to an end. Although could be a lot worse, started my new job at GoApe at Temple Newsam seem to be joining a good team and should be good fun working there.
M-F: Instructor training. Sat: All signed off and ready to be let loose on customers but the weather had other ideas forcing closure due to high winds so ended up doing general site work to get ready getting very busy over the coming half term. Lost count of the number of barrows of stone we shifted for all the paths around site.

Climbing:
Tuesday: Big board session at depot, busy with plenty of ukb'ers. Good session starting to feel a bit stronger again post injury. Did a few old circuit problem, close on Mock having been informed my previous ascents are void having done it with the alien head instead of the pink crimp at the top.
Thursday: Another busy board session, quick go at Mock but couldn't really be bothered with it. Repeat a few of the old problems from off the wall which I'd not done it a while
Friday: Got a bit keen and went back on the board. Unsurprisingly felt tired but full session with The Colossus, repeated a load of easier stuff and made up a couple of projects to try and do next week.

Dolly

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Not a very good week really. Somehow managed to do my back, not completely, but badly enough. Spent first part of week on prescription strength codeine and diazepam. I know it looks ok on screen but it was actually a bit shit. The exercises on http://drlumbago.com/best-back-exercises-stretches-lower-muscles-soreness-spasms-muscle-low/ are very good and really work for me
M
T
W went to encourage TT at Stanage. Nice to be walking outside. Managed a gentle 20 minutes on my shed board which helped
T 30 minutes on the board
F 50 minutes on board. Beast (ish)
S Took smallest to her footy match at Thurcroft miners welfare. Fuuuucking windy. I’ve been to a few South Yorkshire ex pit village grounds over the years and their pitches always seem to be good. Good game but she lost. SWFC in the afternoon where we somehow couldn’t score despite a million chances. Kettlebells in the evening
S Family walk, back still a bit tweaky
Hopefully back on it this week

Bradders

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M - lovely afternoon at Shipley Glen; sunny and breezy but not cold. Not been in ages. Warmed up on the vert stuff around Manson's Wall then did that first go. Tried Phil's for the first time and did it after a few goes when I changed the way I was taking one of the holds. Lovely feeling getting the hold and just knowing I was going to do it. Tried Millstone Grit for a while and couldn't touch it. Just couldn't work out how to stand on the smears. Sacked it and did Lady Penelope 3rd go and the sit a couple of attempts after that.

T - lunch gym. Superset rounds of 4r 25kg combined military press/overhead squats, 6r 50kg bench press, 4r maximal TRX Is and Ts and wrist curls.

W / T - down to London for work, long days.

F - Depot afternoon. Most of it on the 50 although tried and failed on a couple of oranges beforehand. Started slowly on the board but warmed into it, then:
1. Tried a problem from Tom which I'd attempted last week, which we christened Palmer Ham. After a few punts eventually had a good go dropping the penultimate move.
2. Tried Jim's crimpy one (now christened Palmer Sutra) and did the lower moves but the one to the orange crimp felt hard.
3. Tried Steady Intro, properly pinged off first go but then climbed into the stand from the start and had a good go on the stand.
4. Did Austrian Mock first go (felt tough but clearly a lot easier than all the others)
5. Tried Zoo replica dropped the crux only go from the start and did the harder stand

S - family visiting. Won at Monopoly (YYFY!!)

S - Depot. Couple of yellows to warm up. Quick go on the campus board; still terrible. Best managed 3-6-7.5 on the large rungs. Then one arm max hangs up to 5x 10s w/ 10kg assistance (c. 85% of b/w), supersetting 4r maximal TRX Is and Ts. Then a few first go purples to finish.

spidermonkey09

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Good effort TT, avoiding dabbing looks to be the crux!

M - ill. Briefly considered going out as the sun was shining but wisely decided against it.

T - Depot. Attempted to take it steady but struggled as good scene on the board. Some progress on the Palmer problem I'd been trying, even if it is the easy version. Some FOC at the end of the session which was a bit masochistic while recovering from illness, but completed a full set of 60 secs on, 45 secs off x 8.

W - rest.

T - Depot. Felt dreadful getting warm but eased into it and eventually did the Palmer Problem easy version. Repeated a few things and started trying mirrored versions of some of the harder problems. Still enjoying the board. Planned to do some circuits but ran out of time.

F - rest.

S - afternoon session at Cratcliffe. Finally did Spinal Slab after several sessions over the years and did T Crack quickly which was pleasing after not being able to touch it when I briefly tried a few years back.

S - went to Malham on a whim with Tom. No agenda on the way in as no idea what was dry; the answer was not much, although it did dry back over the day. After doing Personal Services (very good 7b this, as good as the others there) decided to have a look at the Bat Route boulder problem. Worked a few things out in the roof and did the final sequence to the jug, via the grim tooth, first go which was nice. Second go up made good progress on the lower section but was unable to repeat the trick going to the jug; think I was just knackered as this move isn't too bad in isolation. All moves bar one done from the SA belay to the kneebar; definitely plausible. Might need to do some core work for the kneebar though!

Absolutely wasted after yesterday, that bulge is so physical. Very psyched to find it possible; will have a few more sporadic sessions over the next month or so before the season starts in earnest and the headwall hopefully dries...trying to avoid becoming fixated though as I want to tick some other routes as well this season!

andy_e

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#21 Austrian Mock Club
February 11, 2019, 09:15:55 am
Throw To Horn

That's the easiest move on the problem.

Palmer Ham

Good name!

shark

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I was exhausted just reading that Shark. It sounds like you were running around like a headless chicken. On trips away to new venues there are probably two broad strategies: focus, or drop your grade - it sounds like you didn't really do either, with the predictable result that you just got more and more battered. Sounds like there were some poor problem choices too.

You are so right. I wanted to go with the the flow on this trip and just enjoy the climbing and take things as they came but in hindsight that was a mistake as the reality was that it meant I was trying and failing to keep pace with two climbers who proved to be significantly fitter and stronger.

Hopefully I will come away having banked some fitness/capacity/depth which the last few days has shown I'm lacking.     

Will Hunt

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If you're not going climbing today, Shark, why not come back to the UK and sit at my desk for me and I'll go out there and carpe diem for you.

highrepute

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I was exhausted just reading that Shark. It sounds like you were running around like a headless chicken. On trips away to new venues there are probably two broad strategies: focus, or drop your grade - it sounds like you didn't really do either, with the predictable result that you just got more and more battered. Sounds like there were some poor problem choices too.

You are so right. I wanted to go with the the flow on this trip and just enjoy the climbing and take things as they came but in hindsight that was a mistake as the reality was that it meant I was trying and failing to keep pace with two climbers who proved to be significantly fitter and stronger.

Hopefully I will come away having banked some fitness/capacity/depth which the last few days has shown I'm lacking.   

I wouldn't read to much into it. How much bouldering have you done out side the UK, or even away from Burbage, Anston & Tor? There's more to success on a trip then just being strong and fit. It's a complex mental and tactical game.

I recall a few frustrating trips like yours when I first got into bouldering but after many bouldering trips i tend to do better now.

shark

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If you're not going climbing today, Shark, why not come back to the UK and shit at my desk for me and I'll go out there and carpe diem for you.

Sure - I'd be happy to curl one out on your keyboard

tomtom

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I was exhausted just reading that Shark. It sounds like you were running around like a headless chicken. On trips away to new venues there are probably two broad strategies: focus, or drop your grade - it sounds like you didn't really do either, with the predictable result that you just got more and more battered. Sounds like there were some poor problem choices too.

You are so right. I wanted to go with the the flow on this trip and just enjoy the climbing and take things as they came but in hindsight that was a mistake as the reality was that it meant I was trying and failing to keep pace with two climbers who proved to be significantly fitter and stronger.

Hopefully I will come away having banked some fitness/capacity/depth which the last few days has shown I'm lacking.   

I wouldn't read to much into it. How much bouldering have you done out side the UK, or even away from Burbage, Anston & Tor? There's more to success on a trip then just being strong and fit. It's a complex mental and tactical game.

I recall a few frustrating trips like yours when I first got into bouldering but after many bouldering trips i tend to do better now.

Exactly and at the very least Shark its all miles and a fun time away from dreary old breixit infested Britain.

I think it takes different people different times to ‘acclimatise’ to different rock types. I know I’m slow - and (for example) it takes me a good few sessions to get my grit feel (whatever that is!) back at the beginning of the season. Or if I go to granite, or sandstone. Each one takes a bit to transition into. I guess if you transition more often than me (!!) then you adjust quicker....

spidermonkey09

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[quote author=highrepute link=topic=29878.msg578760#msg578760 date=1549878467

I wouldn't read to much into it. How much bouldering have you done out side the UK, or even away from Burbage, Anston & Tor? There's more to success on a trip then just being strong and fit. It's a complex mental and tactical game.

I recall a few frustrating trips like yours when I first got into bouldering but after many bouldering trips i tend to do better now.
[/quote]

I got spanked when I went to font last year having presumed I'd be fine on 7a's having got loads done on the grit that season. I got one done all week, and it felt like the living end. Definitely a lesson to drop the grade in future! Style is so important, and as TT said it might have taken 3 days to get into the swing of it, by which point you're knackered.


Fiend

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If you're not going climbing today, Shark, why not come back to the UK and shit at my desk for me and I'll go out there and carpe diem for you.

Sure - I'd be happy to curl one out on your keyboard

We wouldn't tell the difference to his normal posting ;)

Well, okay, apart from that very sage advice in the previous page which was lovely.

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Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M - UCR, working sections on the mint circuit. Just about got it in three by the end but still mostly a bouldering session. 40 PU

T -  TCA, max hangs 6 x 10s +25 kg felt harder than last week but scraped through, think yesterdays session compromised this a bit. Failed on white on front a few times in desultory fashion, then better attempts on the moonboard (Poetry not Training) new high point not quite holding the move to the finish. 60 PU

W - UCR, continuity 3 x 10:10.

T - TCA, campusing then bit of hard bouldering repeating purples. Odd campus session, managed 1-4-6.5 leading RH both reps, but nowhere near leading LH. Then on 1-4.5-6.5 failed RH but did both reps LH. 50 PU

F - UCR, circuits. 5 x Doubles, with the new boards it's nice to have three circuits so can get some variety on this. Didn't get it quite right though, def felt more powered out than pumped. 80 PU

S - am 30 min hilly run, muddy but caught a gap in the rain. pm TCA, more failure on the white on the front, really not sure why I find this so hard, then managed Poetry not Training on the MB which made me feel better again. Still felt like I had a bit of snap so did wee bit of campusing, reverse of Thursday, success leading LH but failure RH. Finished messing around hands free on the slab. 40 PU

S - am TCA, bit of half arsed steep jumpy bouldering then assisted one arm hangs on lattice edge: -12.5 kg on both arms x 6.
pm UCR 5 x 7a or 7a+, good fight on the last one. Little bit of fall practice too. 40 PU.

Av 70.6 kg

Good week, lot of volume. Frustrated the weather once again stopped me getting out, but happy to be feeling strong and untweaky apart from hamstring/glute thing which I think is more to do with work and driving.  Hopefully get a fair bit more in this week as rest week coming up from Friday.

Duma

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Lovely feeling getting the hold and just knowing I was going to do it.
Love that shit.

Duma

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I'd like to say well done tt, but having watched the footwork I can't bring myself to! Think it might be bad enough to invalidate the ascent. ;-)

andy popp

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I was exhausted just reading that Shark. It sounds like you were running around like a headless chicken. On trips away to new venues there are probably two broad strategies: focus, or drop your grade - it sounds like you didn't really do either, with the predictable result that you just got more and more battered. Sounds like there were some poor problem choices too.

You are so right. I wanted to go with the the flow on this trip and just enjoy the climbing and take things as they came but in hindsight that was a mistake as the reality was that it meant I was trying and failing to keep pace with two climbers who proved to be significantly fitter and stronger.

Hopefully I will come away having banked some fitness/capacity/depth which the last few days has shown I'm lacking.   

What I should also have said, which others have already kind of said, is that you shouldn't be too hard on yourself. This trip probably doesn't really say anything much about the level you're at. And you got to spend a few days away in a beautiful place with some good friends.

Duma

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Quick go on the campus board; still terrible. Best managed 3-6-7.5 on the large rungs.

Then one arm max hangs up to 5x 10s w/ 10kg assistance (c. 85% of b/w)
This amazed me until I realized 3-6 = 1-4, which doesn't sound nearly as bad.
Out of interest, what size edge are you doing your one arm hangs on?

Bradders

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This amazed me until I realized 3-6 = 1-4, which doesn't sound nearly as bad.
Out of interest, what size edge are you doing your one arm hangs on?

Ha yeah the "1" rung is so low that my knees are on the floor when hanging from it even with slightly bent arms...so I have to start on 3 for everything.

I'm using the low middle slot on the BM2k for one arm stuff.

tommytwotone

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From recent activity on this thread it looks like the number one thing Shark needs to change in his training is more sessions on the Leeds Depot woody.

cheque

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Rehab Diaries Week Twenty-five

STG- Leading HVS/ low 6s & carrying normal loads to the crag by end of September.

M- Walk around Yorkshire Wildlife Park w/ camera. At the end of November I did this around Berlin Zoo with the same gear and my back hurt all day. Today it was nowhere near as bad.  :)

T- Fingerboard repeaters & pushups. 10th week running of this.

W- Gym. Bike. Levels increased by one as usual.

T- Rest.

F- Foundry autos. Spent most of the session on the red 6b+ at the right of the Furnace. For the grade this feels challenging to me (that’s not saying much though, I still find putting my shoes on without sitting down a little challenging!) as it’s steep and largely on two- and three-finger pockets which I’ve always been weak on. Very pleased to get to four moves from the top. If I can do it next session I’ll be well stoked.

S- Walk around obscure south peak crags. Much to our surprise a squirrel leapt out of a crack right over mine and my mate’s heads!   :w00t:

S- Gym. Usual selection of weight machine stuff plus first serious attempts at deadlifting and weighted squats. As I did the former in my previous life it was easier- did 60kg (1 kilo below current bodyweight) twice  :weakbench: but my form did not feel good so went down to 50kg. Used the Smith machine for the first time to try the squats. These are not easy!

Moving the weights around at my current strength level is not super-graceful (the bloody bar is 20kg on it’s own on the gym’s pro weights!) so there’s a comical “Mr Muscle” vibe to my presence in the weights area of the gym.  :lol: These two exercises really work my main remaining areas of weakness (lower back & legs) in the physio’s prescribed “use the whole organism” way so they’ll be my focus now I have the confidence to do them.

Did “something” 6 out of 7 days this week & 9 out of the last 10 which is ace. Battered today though!
« Last Edit: February 11, 2019, 12:00:07 pm by cheque »

Bradders

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my previous ascents are void having done it with the alien head instead of the pink crimp at the top.

Yep, according to Innes' original post in the Facebook group from way back in 2015. I hope he's proud of his creation as it's clearly one of the most popular problems on the board! Probably only popular because it's so easy though  ;)

Coops_13

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83.2kg -> 82.3kg

M: Arch. Average to poor session. Warmed up on problems. Finished warm-up with a bit of campusing - close to 1-6, got fingers all the way over but couldn't hold. Moved onto the 50, flashed some new problems then set to work on the project I started last session, better but still tough and couldn't do it. Also set another project so I now have two to work on - this one involves a v hard and quite flexible foot move. Finished with muscle-ups and tried +16kg again. Failed twice and elbows felt sore so did press-ups to failure, managed 30 in a row which I was quite pleased with as I never do press-ups

T: Wisdom tooth out - impacted and deep so a bit of a complicated one. Lots of twisting and drilling - grim.

W - T:  :thumbsdown:

F: Drive to N Wales

S: Cromlech boulders. Tried Bus Stop for a while before giving up due to bad beta and trying Jerry's. Did all the moves on Jerry's before my mate made more progress on Bus Stop. Went back to that and figured out perfect beta. Almost sent but then had insane cramp in my hands and forearms I had to stop and retreat to pub for the rugby

S: Cave. Pretty knackered, did a couple of the moves on Rock Atrocity and tried Clever Beaver. Did all CB moves apart from last one - core too shot for it. Moved on and ticked Lipstick 7A and then did RWT into Lipstick RH 7A to finish

Still pretty sore from wisdom tooth removal but knee seems to have survived the weekend which is good!

AMorris

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Some nice reading today, perfect procrastination fodder.


S - Second day of setting the local wall. Got to throw up some of the new font-esque holds in the shape of a techy vert that I took inspiration from Caseg Groove for, and a the difficult one in the cave which I intend to fall off of for a few months. Reset the 25, including a jenga block problem which looks to be desperate, and the classic black pinch horror show.

M - Everyone and their dog is at the wall trying the new problems. Somehow managed the jenga block problem pretty quickly, wasn't as hard as I had hoped. Thankfully I set an even harder left hand version that spanks me. Did everything I hadn't tested during setting apart from the ones I intended to be projects. Finally stuck the first move of the black, but it felt absolutely living end and I fell off in a heap soon after.

T - Fingerboard. Went through the Hangboard guru elite 1 arm half crimp and open session with strength to spare. Most convincing I have been on that one. Core need a bit of work at the moment though, feeling like I have lost a bit of something. This is less than ideal since Diesel Power is the aim for the next few sessions at the cromlech, and you can't get there sagging.

W - Poorly considered wall session. Should have let my fingers rest in retrospect, cos they felt like they were complaining a bit. Somehow did the black and repeated the jenga blocks. Went and did all the techy ones I could find. Not a bad session.

T - Rest. Thank god.

F - Wall. Busy again. Working on the stand on the hard cave problem but couldn't quite do it. Felt fairly weak.

S - Wall. It's amazing how many people come out of the woodwork when we reset. Did the stand to the cave problem first try. Found beta which makes the sitter easier but still couldn't get anywhere near it. I am going to have to find some strength for that horror show.

All in all good week, but I should have rested more. Off to north wales next weekend for some slate and (hopefully) some tries on DP. I have been visualising success as instructed, though even in my imagination I manage to dab the last move 2 of every 3 times.

tim palmer

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Whilst I didn’t have any expectations coming to Albarracin I’ve been appalled at my performance here and feel like Ive had a hard kick in the aspirationals. Spending four or five hours each day failing mainly on 7A’s has left me totally battered.

Do you think the reputation of albarracin for being soft slightly jaundiced your expectations?

I expected it to be soft but to be honest I thought the grades in the most recent guide were pretty solid for the most part.   

Duma

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M - UCR, working sections on the mint circuit. Just about got it in three by the end but still mostly a bouldering session. 40 PU

Looking back at training ss, I actually did reps of the 7a, 7a+, and 7b+ circuits on Mon too, so not entirely a bouldering session - and even less surprising Tues session was a bit flat.

shark

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Do you think the reputation of albarracin for being soft slightly jaundiced your expectations?

I expected it to be soft but to be honest I thought the grades in the most recent guide were pretty solid for the most part.

Wasn’t aware of the soft grade rep though looking at vids I did think the rock would suit me.

« Last Edit: February 11, 2019, 07:11:13 pm by shark, Reason: Quotes »

jamesturnbull97

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my previous ascents are void having done it with the alien head instead of the pink crimp at the top.

Yep, according to Innes' original post in the Facebook group from way back in 2015. I hope he's proud of his creation as it's clearly one of the most popular problems on the board! Probably only popular because it's so easy though  ;)

It always been a bit of a nemesis problem for me on that board even when I've been going well!

36chambers

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my previous ascents are void having done it with the alien head instead of the pink crimp at the top.

Yep, according to Innes' original post in the Facebook group from way back in 2015. I hope he's proud of his creation as it's clearly one of the most popular problems on the board! Probably only popular because it's so easy though  ;)

It always been a bit of a nemesis problem for me on that board even when I've been going well!

must be at least 8A if you're not breezing it

jamesturnbull97

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my previous ascents are void having done it with the alien head instead of the pink crimp at the top.

Yep, according to Innes' original post in the Facebook group from way back in 2015. I hope he's proud of his creation as it's clearly one of the most popular problems on the board! Probably only popular because it's so easy though  ;)

It always been a bit of a nemesis problem for me on that board even when I've been going well!

must be at least 8A if you're not breezing it

I'm certainly finding it tough in my current form. Just like with Crystal Method everyone seems to find it steady but I can't do it   :wall:

Murph

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Good tick that TT. First time I did it I used the fling yerself round the corner method too.

And highrepute - good to see the WIP footage. Rooting for ya.

Not much to report here myself - I’ve been having a few weeks of “psychus minimus” but am pre-announcing here and now my return to the fold and will have a blow by blow account this coming weekend.

Stay visualised folks!

Yossarian

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M - Wall. Tired, tweaky shoulder. Got roped in to trying to repeat problem that (analysed retrospectively) was probably the one that caused the shoulder damage. Oh dear.
T - 11km trail run
W - Attempts at shoulder stretching and rehab
T
F
S - Wall. Cautious. Concentrated on the new slab set, which was fun and didn’t cause too much pain. Then tried the circuit board, following a few months off. Ticked all up to 7a. Might focus on this for a bit, despite not having any route trips planned.
S - 7km seafront run.

Weight hovering around 92kg, though I look skinnier so I think I’m going to ditch the creatine. Shoulder injury v annoying. Enjoying running still, despite some lingering pain in peroneal tendon. Hopefully making concrete plans for Easter - either Fontainebleau or Torridon. Yay...

Nibile

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Mon - Core work, hill sprints.
Tue - rest.
Wed - quick PE low session, 1/1 x5. Not bad after a lot of time. Weights.
Thu - light boxing bag. Tired.
Fri - snatch pulls, clean and press with static pause, static/dynamic pull ups.
Sat - dumbbell complex x2.
Sun - lots of spare time, big session. Board climbing, tried two problems, just the singles and short sequences. Not bad, apart from terrible skin and 17° already. Dammit. Then picked the easier one of the two PE problems (12 moves at probably 6c+) and did it 5 times with one minute rests in between. Forearms exploded.
Then did a DL test: 60%, 5 x12 EMOM sets. Brutal.

Quite happy about the climbing and the little PE that I have somehow kept. Probably endless farmer's, EMOM sets and loaded carries have kept my forearms awake even with straps on. Quite unhappy about the terrible climbing skin that I have, and the already torrid temps at the board: 17° in mid February, are you fucking kidding me?
In any case, with my broken meniscus I couldn't do much more anyway. I want to keep hammering the PE on the problems, not on the system, because it's a lot more intense.

andy_e

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I hope he's proud of his creation as it's clearly one of the most popular problems in the world!

Fixed


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Following on from Sharkathon, going to try to log more of what I do and hopefully plan a bit better too.


STG - Climb Fighting Torque.
Weight ~75kg.
MTG - Plan Spring Font trip
LTG - 7C

M - rest
T - Portland appears drenched in mist. Red spider, comp problems 1 hr; 6 laps on PE circuit, failing on last set; traversing for maybe 30 mins.
W - Max hangs. Limit was 10 secs bottom BM2000 rung 20kg. Can hang that for longer, but not increase weight. A bit tired though. 
T - Some hardish boulders and longer traversing. In the painful pump zone. Pre night shift.
F - Rest, Amsterdam to visit brother
S - Rest, too much Belgian beer.
S - Causal session in Het Lab bouldering wall in Amsterdam. Some reasonable volume and a few hard moves once hang over had settled.

Really been very bad on diet and booze since Christmas.

highrepute

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Good tick that TT. First time I did it I used the fling yerself round the corner method too.

And highrepute - good to see the WIP footage. Rooting for ya.

Not much to report here myself - I’ve been having a few weeks of “psychus minimus” but am pre-announcing here and now my return to the fold and will have a blow by blow account this coming weekend.

Stay visualised folks!

I was forced to fingerboard last night, as couldn't make it to the wall, which made me think we hadn't had an update from you in a while. Glad the psyche is returning

yetix

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stg: finish current 6 week training bloc
mtg: 7C
ltg: 8A

M: rest
T: Moonboard, ticked 5 more benchmarks (2x7A, 2x6C, 1x6B+) followed by some weights training
W: rest
T: Parisella's, reacquainted with RA, got a few moves past the flake, felt a little tired going into the session so not bad for first session on it this year
F: rest
S: a couple more benchmarks on the Moonboard whilst warming up followed by max hangs - felt boxed!
S: partners birthday, ate so so much!

Feeling better after a few weeks off over xmas, NY and early Jan. Fingers are starting to feel stronger again and 4 weeks into max hangs. Feeling like I'm moving managed to tick 72 benchmarks off on the moonboard since mid january and now gonna start to look at getting outside more frequently again and getting some real ticks!

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M-Gym bench press maxed out on 8 reps of 60kg and seated leg press 8 reps of 130kg.  Felt like I had more in me but kept getting light headed.

T-Ran 5.5km after work then new purple set at the Valley.

W-should of rested but did some slab stuff at Valley.

Th-another 5.5km in 30mins.

F-Comp at Valley, best round yet, managed 26/30 problems but had mental blank and dropped points on some problems.  My final score was flattered when I got lucky and flashed the dyno.

S-easy session at Pool and then 5km run.

S-Bowden Doors where I struggled to keep warm in the wind, spent most the time jumping about to keep warm then by time my heart rate was back to normal I was cold again.  Ten weeks since I was last here trying Born Lippy 8A and now it’s been downgraded (and therefore easier) I was sure it would go but it still feels just as hard!  Start and finish now feeling pretty steady but keep getting spun off at the crux, just not quite getting heel or body position right.   

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Ten weeks since I was last here trying Born Lippy 8A and now it’s been downgraded (and therefore easier) I was sure it would go but it still feels just as hard! 

I like this logic.

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M – hill reps at lunch. 280 m in 9 k. Headwind to finish.
T – not much - trot to cubs
W – intervals session at lunch 5 x 3.5 mins at max speed. Hard. Bouldering session in evening. Not a lot to do, only comp probs still up, climbed OK though.
T – lunchtime yoga – 1hr
F – long run. 26 (well nearly 27, went wrong at the end) on Deesdie way. Grim – headwind and rain all the way out.
S – walk around Edinburgh.
S – boulder session at Alien Bloc 2, great facility, and only 15 min walk from city centre. Good setting an a nice size, but I guess it could get pretty crowded of an evening. Trashed, not resting enough as there is so much to go at.

 

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