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Sucess Visualisation Space 466 4th - 10th Feb 2019 (Read 12521 times)

tomtom

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Evenin all.

We: Finally got Zippys done at Plantation (comedy fall at 10 secs and please don’t watch the bicycling top out..) But dead chuffed to get it done at last. Not the most graceful of my attempts but it worked..



Dolly then sandbagged me big time on Silk... You can tell he’s been hanging out with Lagers....

Fri: Crap weather. Depot. Had to climb in trainers as my right big toe was bruised (some how did that on weds I think) more than the usual rock boot pain. V4 circuit was very tough in places without rock boots... triceps felt beasted afterwards.

Sa > Su. Drove to Oxford and back for a family 60th....

nai

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Well done, Tom. So solid

M - ill
30 mins LI
think I did some mobility.

T - ill
short bodyweight circuit
bar core

W - ill
30 mins LI

Th - ill
Bar Core
Mini works with daughter.

Fri - ill
short bodyweight circuit
floor core

S - ill & hungover
30 mins LI

S - nowt

Ok work in the circumstances - felt shit, had no transport and the weather was cack.  Off to Wales this week, weather looks ok for bouldering and should be warm enough for routes on the coasts and outcrops.


shark

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Nice one TT. You're on a roll


M Albarracín. Techno’s sector. Chilly. Some snow on ground. Blown away by rock architecture and stillness. Went on some easy problems that turned out to not to be easy at all. Then we all had a go at a burly 7A traverse. Did it in 3 sections and felt busted. Managed to do 6c and called it a day.

T Valle de Madeira. Warm ups then a pair of vert problems at 6C and 7A. Then spent a lot of time on a hard 7A prow Maximo Exponente which none of us did. Tried a big roof round the side Itchi 7A+ but too tired. Flashed a short 6C+ rib just below. Then a couple of half hearted and tired goes on a highball 7A Cagon Boy with a grim top out which Paul bravely topped

W

T Arrastradero sector. Masses of world class problems so after warming up I got stuck on a mediocre 7A (Proyecto Misha) with a desperate sit start off two sideholds miles apart and tiny footholds which my feet kept popping off. Big mistake. An hour of this left me fucked and worse with a hole in my fingers. Did a classy burly rib El Esquinazo 6C and worked the moves on Zig Zag 7A an amazing huecoed roof.

F Got some superglue to tape finger up. Sector Entreagus. Did a steep rising traverese 6C from start of Mandingus to start then we all go stuck into Mandingus 7A a jutting roof (later found it was graded 7A+ and 7B elsewhere). Couldn’t do the crocodile wresting topout or the move across the roof. Heel toe stayed in when I fell off on one go and somehow kicked the mat away with other foot and back connected with a protruding rock when I landed. Ouch. Ran out of beans. We moved on to Regleta Fantasma 7A a tricky short wall. Again lots of goes and no success. Finished off on Senora Laja 6C - a tough low roof.

S

S Finger still needed taping back still sore. Techos. Chilly good conditions. Did some warm ups then struggled on a steep 6C. Had no lock left in arms and core was shot. Managed to do it in the end. Went on another 6C but could only do it from standing, Called it a day.

Whilst I didn’t have any expectations coming to Albarracin I’ve been appalled at my performance here and feel like Ive had a hard kick in the aspirationals. Spending four or five hours each day failing mainly on 7A’s has left me totally battered. Rather than dig myself deeper into a hole I'm going to stop digging which unfortunately means passing up the opportunity to climb tomorrow which is the last day. Hopefully there will be some payback. Find out when I get back. 

Me at end of today





« Last Edit: February 10, 2019, 07:10:31 pm by shark »

teestub

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Is 7A a grade you often climb in a session at new venues Shark?

shark

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Is 7A a grade you often climb in a session at new venues Shark?

Yes

tomtom

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Where’s your head gone?
Were you mid visualisation?

teestub

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Yes

How many new 7’s have you done in a session in the last year?

shark

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No idea. Where is this going?

teestub

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Apologies, I was just trying to put your performance into context for the last year; I know from your entries that you’ve spent a lot of time sport climbing and a lot of time working boulder projects. I have had previous trips where I have been disappointed as I though I should be climbing grade (x) as I had just climbed grade (x+2) at home, without factoring in how much effort I had put into that particular problem.

As we are all about visualisation, flow and mind state at the moment, I thought I would add perception of self and honest self appraisal into the mix.

Will Hunt

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Fuck me, Shark. No climbing tomorrow? What's that supposed to achieve? You might never go to Albarracin again in your life. Tape your finger, get out onto the rock, and enjoy climbing some quality easy problems. Just enjoy the feeling of rock in your hands. It doesn't all have to be about grades.

duncan

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What Will said (see also below).

STG: Manage aches and pains.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this winter, Colorado bucket list routes in May, a classic E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

M - Shoulder strength (reverse flys - Is Ys and Ts - on the rings, side planks, crawling, single arm push-ups). 9km brisk walking.
T - Westway bouldering (to ‘V3’).
W - Shoulder strength.
T - Westway. Tweaked right elbow during warm-up.
F - 10km brisk walking.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups 18mm edge (left arm only). 300m step-ups. 12km brisk walking.
S - Shoulder strength. Hip/knee strength. 10km brisk walking.

Ill and low mood again this week. Weight unchanged. Pissed off about tweaking elbow again one week before Spain. Should probably have taken it easier given all the other current stressors and certainly should have taken longer over warm-up. I can kiss goodbye to 7b+ this trip, so emphasis will be on enjoying climbing. It's probably what I need most of all. If it also counts as building a base in preparation for the trad. season then even better.

Will Hunt

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T - Depot. Warmed up and did a really nice arete problem (number 27 on the new pink circuit). Did it second go and then secretly watched Mark Katz take more goes to do it. So I'm better than Katz now. Which is nice.
Board. Busy scene. Basically spent the whole session on Austrian Mock. Felt like I was pathing the start until Throw To Horn which is really cool since it felt difficult a few weeks ago. Didn't do the crux in a link but felt close. Towards the end of the session tried some different foot beta (RF blue, LF green) which makes Throw To Horn loads easier. This should go next week now, or else I'm Simon Lee. Despite not doing it I'm really pleased with how much better I'm now climbing on the board. This is somewhat tempered by the reality that this is unlikely due to any strength gain and more likely due to getting more used to the technique.
Then pottering on pinks at the end. Have lately been spending the last 20 mins or so on the circuit board. Not with much science, just trying to get pumped to build some fitness before lime season begins. I'm aiming for aerocap but not sure if I'm hitting a low enough intensity, or even if this is what I should be doing (I could do foot on campussing instead)?

Su - out most of the day with the family. Got home about 4 and popped to the Glen for a few hours. Intended to look at Double D but it was seeping heavily. Did a nice traverse then a few easy highballs I've not done before. Did the Block Traverse which was lovely delicate slab crimping with a cool pebble sprag at the end. Then went to seek out the traverses below Red Baron. JD's looks nails and is completely mossed. Longy's needs a brush. Spent a while working the start of Monkey Business and it took far too long to figure out but got it done eventually.

gme

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Mon- moonboard. Working my way through benchmarks upto 6C+. Tried a few 7s but no joy. Body is feeling tired now so guessing performance isn’t the target.
Tues- school. Max hangs on 10mms plus 5kg. One arm hangs on bar for shoulder engagement.
Wed- lunch ancap session. Boulder triples. Increased problem grade and felt hard. Fell on a few. PM 1on 1off at school. Rings to finish.
Thurs- rest. Long day in London.
Fri - maxhangs 10mms + 10kg. Hard
Sat- limit bouldering on valley 50. Then ancap boulder triples on 12-15 move problems. Totally broken.
Sun.- rest. Watching son play rugby.

Finally got through to my 1st big rest period this year. In Germany with work so no climbing until Thursday at earliest. Really happy with my consistency and gains but taken a bit to get used to feeling tired all the time and not really having any of those springy magic sessions. Hopefully I will after a good rest.
52 separate sessions on the crimpd app completed since 1st Jan.

Weight static at 81.6 kg. German sausage and beer probably won’t help this.
Still very motivated though and can’t wait to get back at it.

gollum

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M - Solid rings session for TRX push followed by a steady 5k on the treadmill.
Evening was doing 5x3 problems on 50 at Depot. Solid on top half of ZY replicas, including the Medium/Hard one. Then on to AM. Plan was split in half and do as five move intervals, but on first go felt strong and went all the way through to complete the problem, although was trying hard and was wasted on the next interval. Moved on to other things and was please up to the last problem, by which time I was powered out. Happy with the session.

T - Power Triples at Big Depot at lunchtime. Purples which went well and think I got the level about right, although it was bitterly cold on my hands the first set but got going soon after.

W - Push day. Bench for paused doubles up to 80k and the doubles to 100k. Feeling good. Then on to shoulder presses with the weight creeping up and the control being good. Finish off with some floor presses, dips and close grip presses.

T - Depot in the evening working on new comp problems. Got some good ticks, made a couple of silly mistakes but overall did okay all not as well as last month. Of the ones I haven’t done I am confident about a couple of them.

F- Steady 5 on 3 off session at the Big Depot. Working at around 6b+ which felt spot on. A very light pump in my forearms but never overly taxing.

S - Well rested for a push day. 5x5 Bench @ 85k, followed by triples on Decline up to 90k and Incline DB. Finished off with some shoulder work of presses and raises which IO haven’t done for a while but I should probably do a bit of more frequently. Plan to do accessory work at the end of every session, just the one exercise I reckon.
Double run, 5k on treadmill and then 5k out on hills with Mrs B, all good for my head.

S - Pull weights. Start with OAP. RH solid, LH not really firing today. Then move on to weighted pull ups. 6 x 2 with BW plus 40k, then 3 sets of 5 reps with 20k and 5 sets at BW. Some pull down on the machine, two handed to 120k, one handed to 85k. Finished with some shoulder activations.
Ran on treadmill for 5k and then ran home looking for hills and getting up to another 5k.

A pretty good week. Climbed quite a lot and got some good stuff done. Less on the weights this week but plenty of running.

Lots if socialising this week and loads of beer and pizza, which will not be good for the body but good to kick back every now and then.

andy popp

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I was exhausted just reading that Shark. It sounds like you were running around like a headless chicken. On trips away to new venues there are probably two broad strategies: focus, or drop your grade - it sounds like you didn't really do either, with the predictable result that you just got more and more battered. Sounds like there were some poor problem choices too. And I agree with Will and Duncan, going and just enjoy some easy climbing tomorrow.

highrepute

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52 separate sessions on the crimpd app completed since 1st Jan.


Wow, that's impressive.

Burn out a risk? Is there value in training tired do you think?

highrepute

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M - Works - mainly on the motherboard. Not been on it for a few months and felt very weak on it compared to previous levels, struggling on the 7as now - probably just neurological and will come back quickly. Made a little voyager problem that i was too tired to send. It's called French Start 7b for anyone interested (the second move should be done as a crossover). Disclaimer - it's nothing like voyager.         

Thu - Works - mainly on the comp wall but went back to my Voyager problem on the motherboard and did it first go. the motherboard doesn't really lend itself to make replicas of problems, every climb on it is very similar... front on, cut-loose quite a lot, works the fingers... ideal for training but not for emulating a style of climbing.

Wasn't able to find time to get out onto Voyager this week. The various goings on in my life seem to be hotting up so getting harder to get out. Perhaps a 7am session on Thursday possible - catch the cooler temps that way.

In the meantime keep visualising!



Here's my best go, which is from session V.

jamesturnbull97

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Back to reality after last weeks skiing and sadly the life of a full time climber for the past 8 months since finishing uni has come to an end. Although could be a lot worse, started my new job at GoApe at Temple Newsam seem to be joining a good team and should be good fun working there.
M-F: Instructor training. Sat: All signed off and ready to be let loose on customers but the weather had other ideas forcing closure due to high winds so ended up doing general site work to get ready getting very busy over the coming half term. Lost count of the number of barrows of stone we shifted for all the paths around site.

Climbing:
Tuesday: Big board session at depot, busy with plenty of ukb'ers. Good session starting to feel a bit stronger again post injury. Did a few old circuit problem, close on Mock having been informed my previous ascents are void having done it with the alien head instead of the pink crimp at the top.
Thursday: Another busy board session, quick go at Mock but couldn't really be bothered with it. Repeat a few of the old problems from off the wall which I'd not done it a while
Friday: Got a bit keen and went back on the board. Unsurprisingly felt tired but full session with The Colossus, repeated a load of easier stuff and made up a couple of projects to try and do next week.

Dolly

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Not a very good week really. Somehow managed to do my back, not completely, but badly enough. Spent first part of week on prescription strength codeine and diazepam. I know it looks ok on screen but it was actually a bit shit. The exercises on http://drlumbago.com/best-back-exercises-stretches-lower-muscles-soreness-spasms-muscle-low/ are very good and really work for me
M
T
W went to encourage TT at Stanage. Nice to be walking outside. Managed a gentle 20 minutes on my shed board which helped
T 30 minutes on the board
F 50 minutes on board. Beast (ish)
S Took smallest to her footy match at Thurcroft miners welfare. Fuuuucking windy. I’ve been to a few South Yorkshire ex pit village grounds over the years and their pitches always seem to be good. Good game but she lost. SWFC in the afternoon where we somehow couldn’t score despite a million chances. Kettlebells in the evening
S Family walk, back still a bit tweaky
Hopefully back on it this week

Bradders

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M - lovely afternoon at Shipley Glen; sunny and breezy but not cold. Not been in ages. Warmed up on the vert stuff around Manson's Wall then did that first go. Tried Phil's for the first time and did it after a few goes when I changed the way I was taking one of the holds. Lovely feeling getting the hold and just knowing I was going to do it. Tried Millstone Grit for a while and couldn't touch it. Just couldn't work out how to stand on the smears. Sacked it and did Lady Penelope 3rd go and the sit a couple of attempts after that.

T - lunch gym. Superset rounds of 4r 25kg combined military press/overhead squats, 6r 50kg bench press, 4r maximal TRX Is and Ts and wrist curls.

W / T - down to London for work, long days.

F - Depot afternoon. Most of it on the 50 although tried and failed on a couple of oranges beforehand. Started slowly on the board but warmed into it, then:
1. Tried a problem from Tom which I'd attempted last week, which we christened Palmer Ham. After a few punts eventually had a good go dropping the penultimate move.
2. Tried Jim's crimpy one (now christened Palmer Sutra) and did the lower moves but the one to the orange crimp felt hard.
3. Tried Steady Intro, properly pinged off first go but then climbed into the stand from the start and had a good go on the stand.
4. Did Austrian Mock first go (felt tough but clearly a lot easier than all the others)
5. Tried Zoo replica dropped the crux only go from the start and did the harder stand

S - family visiting. Won at Monopoly (YYFY!!)

S - Depot. Couple of yellows to warm up. Quick go on the campus board; still terrible. Best managed 3-6-7.5 on the large rungs. Then one arm max hangs up to 5x 10s w/ 10kg assistance (c. 85% of b/w), supersetting 4r maximal TRX Is and Ts. Then a few first go purples to finish.

spidermonkey09

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Good effort TT, avoiding dabbing looks to be the crux!

M - ill. Briefly considered going out as the sun was shining but wisely decided against it.

T - Depot. Attempted to take it steady but struggled as good scene on the board. Some progress on the Palmer problem I'd been trying, even if it is the easy version. Some FOC at the end of the session which was a bit masochistic while recovering from illness, but completed a full set of 60 secs on, 45 secs off x 8.

W - rest.

T - Depot. Felt dreadful getting warm but eased into it and eventually did the Palmer Problem easy version. Repeated a few things and started trying mirrored versions of some of the harder problems. Still enjoying the board. Planned to do some circuits but ran out of time.

F - rest.

S - afternoon session at Cratcliffe. Finally did Spinal Slab after several sessions over the years and did T Crack quickly which was pleasing after not being able to touch it when I briefly tried a few years back.

S - went to Malham on a whim with Tom. No agenda on the way in as no idea what was dry; the answer was not much, although it did dry back over the day. After doing Personal Services (very good 7b this, as good as the others there) decided to have a look at the Bat Route boulder problem. Worked a few things out in the roof and did the final sequence to the jug, via the grim tooth, first go which was nice. Second go up made good progress on the lower section but was unable to repeat the trick going to the jug; think I was just knackered as this move isn't too bad in isolation. All moves bar one done from the SA belay to the kneebar; definitely plausible. Might need to do some core work for the kneebar though!

Absolutely wasted after yesterday, that bulge is so physical. Very psyched to find it possible; will have a few more sporadic sessions over the next month or so before the season starts in earnest and the headwall hopefully dries...trying to avoid becoming fixated though as I want to tick some other routes as well this season!

andy_e

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#21 Austrian Mock Club
February 11, 2019, 09:15:55 am
Throw To Horn

That's the easiest move on the problem.

Palmer Ham

Good name!

shark

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I was exhausted just reading that Shark. It sounds like you were running around like a headless chicken. On trips away to new venues there are probably two broad strategies: focus, or drop your grade - it sounds like you didn't really do either, with the predictable result that you just got more and more battered. Sounds like there were some poor problem choices too.

You are so right. I wanted to go with the the flow on this trip and just enjoy the climbing and take things as they came but in hindsight that was a mistake as the reality was that it meant I was trying and failing to keep pace with two climbers who proved to be significantly fitter and stronger.

Hopefully I will come away having banked some fitness/capacity/depth which the last few days has shown I'm lacking.     

Will Hunt

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If you're not going climbing today, Shark, why not come back to the UK and sit at my desk for me and I'll go out there and carpe diem for you.

highrepute

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I was exhausted just reading that Shark. It sounds like you were running around like a headless chicken. On trips away to new venues there are probably two broad strategies: focus, or drop your grade - it sounds like you didn't really do either, with the predictable result that you just got more and more battered. Sounds like there were some poor problem choices too.

You are so right. I wanted to go with the the flow on this trip and just enjoy the climbing and take things as they came but in hindsight that was a mistake as the reality was that it meant I was trying and failing to keep pace with two climbers who proved to be significantly fitter and stronger.

Hopefully I will come away having banked some fitness/capacity/depth which the last few days has shown I'm lacking.   

I wouldn't read to much into it. How much bouldering have you done out side the UK, or even away from Burbage, Anston & Tor? There's more to success on a trip then just being strong and fit. It's a complex mental and tactical game.

I recall a few frustrating trips like yours when I first got into bouldering but after many bouldering trips i tend to do better now.

 

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