Which moonboard set up are you climbing on?
For my fellow Moonboard weaklings: I would like to rec "Bleak House" as an excellent, interesting problem with a funky start.
With approx 450,000 problems to choose from I'll just work my way through stuff and as long as I'm pulling hard it's all good.
…filter on benchmark and just start on the 6a+s and work through to whatever grade you want.
Session 2. Made sure to avoid doing any of the same problems / trying any of the same projects as last time, to ensure I have no idea about potential progress. I didn't feel any weaker though.Flashed a benchmark """6C""". Still benchmark """6B/+s""" I can't do despite multiple attempts. Whatever FFH is still naff, also because it makes some moves really morpho, if you're at full extension trying to keep a crucial foot on the only hold, whilst the typical 5'11' +3AI cuntweasel would be perfectly comfortable.Also getting a bit bored that the Benchmarks apart from being benchmarks of nothing except vast and unreliable variance in both grades and quality (one particularly LOGlem involved such a pointlessly slopey start hold I couldn't get my arse off the ground), are generally about bigger / awkwarder moves between the bigger holds. I'd definitely like to mix in stuff with smaller moves between smaller / more fingery holds. I doubt I have enough battery on my phone to skim through 5,350 non-benchmark ""6Bs"" trying to find something remotely useful. I might have to spend half an hour meticulously hand-crafting my own problem only to discover it's actually 6B and piss or I can't do a single move. Whatever Usefully, the grippier-than-usual wood seems to start burning my skin just as I start losing strength - good timing.
I doubt I have enough battery on my phone to skim through 5,350 non-benchmark ""6Bs"" trying to find something remotely useful.
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