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Moonboard for people who are weak and shit on the Moonboard (Read 13106 times)

slab_happy

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Okay, so for the last few months I have been developing a deep and meaningful relationship with the Moonboard, partly because everything on it is my anti-style.

It has practically all the things I'm bad at (steep stuff! body tension with feet on rubbish footholds! big jumpy moves! actual strength!) all rolled up into one board, and thus gives me no option but to work on my weaknesses.

So I thought I'd start a thread for mutual support among people who are spending time on the Moonboard because we're shit at it -- if there are any other similarly masochistic people out there.

(Just me then?)

Also, I will take any recs anyone's got for 6a+ problems that are good problems and somewhere in the vicinity of the grade. I'm hoping to build a little circuit of the ones I've sieged into submission and like enough to want to repeat.

yetix

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Which moonboard set up are you climbing on?

I've been working through the benchmarks recently (some are massively sandbagged) but its forcing me to do problems which style really don't suit me

slab_happy

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Which moonboard set up are you climbing on?

Whoops, should have said: 2017.

I'm working on the benchmarks too, and there are some great problems in there, but I'd be interested if anyone has recs for particularly good non-benchmark problems.

moose

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I can't recommend any specific problems; I can only lend sympathy.  I suspect you have also striven mightily on a problem only to read comments (often from users with Polish names - what are they eating there?!) along the lines of "soft, felt 6a, did it missing out holds  I4 and H6" (which would seem to require a succession of one-armer dynos).

slab_happy

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One of my current nemeses is named "Warm-up on Big Ones", so I'm just accepting and trying to embrace the humiliation here.

tomtom

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The moon board app is actually a secret means of communication for an intercontinental people smuggling syndicate. I4 and H6 refer to exchange locations and soft 6A means watch out the feds will be there.

tommytwotone

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I've had similar struggles on the Moonboard, though mainly due to my own weaknesses (being short and hip infelxibility).


Agree on the comments thing.


Like many areas on the internet (esp. YouTube, Guardian articles and Twitter as a whole), I think I can live without hearing the thoughts of randomers off the internet responding to the content on there.




slab_happy

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For my fellow Moonboard weaklings: I would like to rec "Bleak House" as an excellent, interesting problem with a funky start.

Fiend

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 :wave: :wave: :wave:

I had a recent epiphany that I am even more appallingly weak than usual. This was due to a cunning "getting back fitness strength and confidence for the summer season" plan which involved building up my sport redpointing and onsighting in tandem (correct) and then swiftly abandoning the former along with any form of training or anything that pushed me physically as soon as the latter was quite decent (very incorrect). Thus my rotpunkt grade (along with my bloque grade) is languishing at least a grade and a half below what it was this point last year despite a much bigger volume of climbing - all of which has been "treading water" when it comes to any form of actually training my muscles. The cunning result being I have less and less confidence that I have anything in reserve when it comes to proper climbing i.e. South Stack.

Thus imagine my glee when I discovered the recently revamped Awesome Stockport (very respectable new bouldering, with the same ear-vomitingly abysmal "greatest hits of 80s dad rock" soundtrack) has a Moonboard. Hurrah! Not only can I be weak, I can be proven weak and feel even more demoralised.

So it begins....

First impressions.

Non-wooden holds are shit and I wouldn't touch them with a brush-on-a-stick.

Even the wooden holds have enough texture to eventually sear my skin, although the shapes are tolerable.

Lights below the holds mean that the crux of 99% of foot-follow-hands problem is hanging around, hoping your neck can periscope like Ondra's, desperately trying to see what lone footholds you're allowed.

The lack of symmetry deeply offends my aspergers and I will be seeking counselling to cope with this. My brain is still itchy from it.

Feet-follow-hands is generally dire as it forces awkward contortions and is completely unnatural not having anything for the trailing foot.

The grades at the lower grades live up to their promise, i.e. sandbagged to horseshittery anything from 1 grade to 4 grades.

The app could do with a better intro for first time users.


In short I had plenty of fun and it felt like an alarmingly necessary use of my time  :blink:

moose

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Soft. Did it with one arm, missing out H11 and D15.   

Fiend

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You'd have to do with it with one arm, with your gammy wrist  :P

I haven't worked out how to read people's comments and don't intend to do so. Their idiocy with mediocre setting and stupid grades is bad enough, I don't need to know any more!


Liamhutch89

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Fiend, assuming you're just wanting to get strong for now (give it a few months, you'll start enjoying it and actually have board projects you find yourself daydreaming about  ;)) here's a few things that have significantly helped me get stronger from my board sessions below:

Strictly enforced minimum 3 minute rest periods (use a timer).

Shorter but more frequent sessions (I'm lucky enough to have a home board), ending long before I'm wasted.

Not 'burning out' afterwards e.g. by doing circuits. Any further climbing / training after your energy is already on the decline will at best be ineffective and more likely have a negative impact on long term strength gains.

Problems with 6 to 8 hand moves seems to be a sweet spot for me, with a couple 2 to 3 move absolute limit problems (doesn't matter if you only use half the board).

3 goes max at each problem before I have to move on. If I pull on and a foot instantly slips, tough shit! that's 1 go down. Really makes me focus and try hard! A slight exception is on the 3rd try I'm allowed to pull straight back on at the point I fell off and try to continue. I think of this a bit like a 'drop set'.

I repeat the same problems each session, or have an A and a B session that alternate, then change  once I can do them all or if I'm no longer progressing on them (I'll usually come back to these a few months later). I have 2 problems that never change and do near the beginning of every session to give an indication of strength / energy.

And some possibly controversial ones that very much work for me:

Spending the large majority of my time half crimping. I've actually banned thumbs!

Mostly setting basic problems. I want to fail because my finger flexors have redlined rather than a technique failure.


 

Fiend

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Hey I did enjoy it! Despite appearances / personality defects, I do actually like pulling hard on things. I just wish I could pull a little bit harder. Maybe I should do a bit of training on a boa.......oh.....

Sensible suggestions, apart from the "repeat the same problems" because I know my performance will go up and down like a fucking yoyo and I don't want to get more despondent when "repeat the same problems" turns into "can't repeat the same problems even though logically I should because I should have benefitted from the previous training". With approx 450,000 problems to choose from I'll just work my way through stuff and as long as I'm pulling hard it's all good.

Wood FT

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For my fellow Moonboard weaklings: I would like to rec "Bleak House" as an excellent, interesting problem with a funky start.

 I enjoyed that one!

petejh

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With approx 450,000 problems to choose from I'll just work my way through stuff and as long as I'm pulling hard it's all good.

And that was that. Fiend was never seen outdoors again.

Rumours spread of a skinhead mutant glimpsed, Gaskins-like, floating up boards around the UK's indoor walls.

40 years from now some has-been will post on ukb(anned, Malham that is) asking does anyone know what happened to that Fiend guy. Seemed to remember he was once really into sea cliff trad.. was even quite good at it..

Ged

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Another vote for getting a timer. I go for 4 minutes, not a moment sooner, between tries. Also agree on the short sessions. Mine will often be less than an hour if I know the problems I'm trying. 15 mins warming up, then maybe 3 goes on 4 probs. As soon as I start flailing, I'm done 

Fiend

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I'm trying to be back to being almost quite good at sea-cliff trad, I've always found having a decent buffer is useful.

BTW I'm on errrr, I think Moonboard Standard 2019 set. So I couldn't find Bleak Horse. I will gladly accept reccomendations for 6B-C problems, wooden holds only, especially with feet on screw-ons or FFH and screw-ons, so I can either ignore the suggestions or moan about them.

yetix

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I would work through the benchmarks if I were you matt, you can filter on benchmark and just start on the 6a+s and work through to whatever grade you want. The plastic holds can be quite good for powerful movement imo, but I wouldn't use them as much atm with the temps

Fiend

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I started on Benchmarks to narrow it down to 8,750 problems. I managed a "6B+" in two goes, then the lowest benchmark and clearly harder ""6A+"" took me 4 goes, and then I started giving up on the """6B"""s that were 7A  :whistle:

cheque

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…filter on benchmark and just start on the 6a+s and work through to whatever grade you want.

As soon as I read this I thought “anything that involves Fiend accepting someone else’s grade opinion isn’t going to go well”  :lol:

Fiend

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Session 2.

Made sure to avoid doing any of the same problems / trying any of the same projects as last time, to ensure I have no idea about potential progress. I didn't feel any weaker though.

Flashed a benchmark """6C""". Still benchmark """6B/+s""" I can't do despite multiple attempts. Whatever  ::)

FFH is still naff, also because it makes some moves really morpho, if you're at full extension trying to keep a crucial foot on the only hold, whilst the typical 5'11' +3AI cuntweasel would be perfectly comfortable.

Also getting a bit bored that the Benchmarks apart from being benchmarks of nothing except vast and unreliable variance in both grades and quality (one particularly LOGlem involved such a pointlessly slopey start hold I couldn't get my arse off the ground), are generally about bigger / awkwarder moves between the bigger holds. I'd definitely like to mix in stuff with smaller moves between smaller / more fingery holds. I doubt I have enough battery on my phone to skim through 5,350 non-benchmark ""6Bs"" trying to find something remotely useful. I might have to spend half an hour meticulously hand-crafting my own problem only to discover it's actually 6B and piss or I can't do a single move. Whatever  ::)

Usefully, the grippier-than-usual wood seems to start burning my skin just as I start losing strength - good timing.

« Last Edit: July 30, 2021, 09:01:47 pm by Fiend »

TobyD

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Session 2.

Made sure to avoid doing any of the same problems / trying any of the same projects as last time, to ensure I have no idea about potential progress. I didn't feel any weaker though.

Flashed a benchmark """6C""". Still benchmark """6B/+s""" I can't do despite multiple attempts. Whatever  ::)

FFH is still naff, also because it makes some moves really morpho, if you're at full extension trying to keep a crucial foot on the only hold, whilst the typical 5'11' +3AI cuntweasel would be perfectly comfortable.

Also getting a bit bored that the Benchmarks apart from being benchmarks of nothing except vast and unreliable variance in both grades and quality (one particularly LOGlem involved such a pointlessly slopey start hold I couldn't get my arse off the ground), are generally about bigger / awkwarder moves between the bigger holds. I'd definitely like to mix in stuff with smaller moves between smaller / more fingery holds. I doubt I have enough battery on my phone to skim through 5,350 non-benchmark ""6Bs"" trying to find something remotely useful. I might have to spend half an hour meticulously hand-crafting my own problem only to discover it's actually 6B and piss or I can't do a single move. Whatever  ::)

Usefully, the grippier-than-usual wood seems to start burning my skin just as I start losing strength - good timing.

I found that the most enjoyable and productive thing to do on the moon board for me was to try as many problems as possible, strictly limited to 3 tries maximum each problem and move on. I also found that the grades are essentially meaningless, but it does help contact strength and coordination.

M1V0

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I doubt I have enough battery on my phone to skim through 5,350 non-benchmark ""6Bs"" trying to find something remotely useful.

I don't use the Moon board or the associated app so this may be complete codswallop, but I seem to think you can order the problems through number of repeats? If so, surely start with the oft-repeated problems rather than benchmarks may be more useful. How to only include crimpy things is a different matter.

slab_happy

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Yeah, I got the very good tip from someone at the Foundry (might have been Shark, even?) to sort by number of repeats, because the most-repeated problems tend at least to be more consistent in the grading.

If you have a problem that's only been done by 5 people, quite probable that they're all super-strong and anything under V8 all feels the same to them.

Fiend

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Thanks weak shit people (including Shark) , useful advice :2thumbsup:

A very crude method I use for trying to find smaller holds is just to look for problems with more holds as they're bound to be worse holds.

I'm still only using wooden holds tho, cos I like them, and probably get 50% more training time before my skin goes.

Fiend

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Session 3....

In which our plucky and intrepid hero pointedly renames the Moonboard to the Morphoboard because at least half of the fucking problems are based around being fully overstretched from the kickboard and/or the next footholds and it becomes obvious time after fucking time that these problems would be piss for anyone who isn't toe-to-fingertip extended. Another clear detriment to FFH especially compared to a normal board with screw-ons that simultaneously reduce morpho issues and provide a good test of body tension. In fact some of the Morphoboard problems are such gibberish that I'm starting to think some of them were set with FFH+screw-ons but weren't recorded as such as they just casually chose the first option in footholds by default.

OTOH...

A very crude method I use for trying to find smaller holds is just to look for problems with more holds as they're bound to be worse holds.
This is okay but they are few and far between, it seems the default setting is neanderthal lurching between relative jugs rather than taking advantage of the plethora of crimps and edges to create some proper fingery / contact strength tests with shorter moves. But I did actually manage to find 1 (one) 6B+ that was actually fucking 6B+ and quite enjoyable on flatties (one other thing to look out for is additional marked footholds which might indicate it climbs okay rather than relying on the starting jug as the lone footholds, 11 feet diagonally down from the crux handholds).

Bradders

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Why don't you go to a wall with a decent custom board instead Fiend? The Manc Depot 55' is a bit shit but I think their other board is better and there must be other options near you?

Or come over to mine and I'll show you some small holds  ;) :boxing:

Fiend

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Because...
1. AW MB is about 8 minutes away.
2. I like the app control thingy even if it's a bit clunky.
3. I'm getting seemingly decent training in terms of pulling hard on stuff I'm trying.
4. I'm having a whole lot of fun as you can tell.

sdm

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Fiend I think you'd be surprised at how short a lot of the moon boarders are.

A huge part of moon board ffh is jumping between the holds and making the most of very high feet in awkward powerful positions, foot to hand matches etc. These bunched moves are often easier for short powerful climbers than taller climbers.

As a fellow moon board sceptic, you'll get a lot more out of it if you accept it for what it is and get to training a style you are weak in rather than finding reasons to avoid the style of problems you find hardest.

The screw on feet are a relatively recent addition. I don't think most walls have them so I don't think many people are accidentally selecting ffh.

If you want more fingery problems, try adding in the yellow holds for some of your problems as well as the wooden ones.

TobyD

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Fiend I think you'd be surprised at how short a lot of the moon boarders are.

A huge part of moon board ffh is jumping between the holds and making the most of very high feet in awkward powerful positions, foot to hand matches etc. These bunched moves are often easier for short powerful climbers than taller climbers.

As a fellow moon board sceptic, you'll get a lot more out of it if you accept it for what it is and get to training a style you are weak in rather than finding reasons to avoid the style of problems you find hardest.

Definitely true.  Isn't it pretty likely that the most effective form of training is going to be the one you most hate? I too loathe the moonboard and similar things because I basically like being pumped and breathing hard on really long routes. Probably the best indication that this is what I need to do more of.

yetix

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Fiend I think you'd be surprised at how short a lot of the moon boarders are.



This

Also as mentioned the yellow holds tend to be v fingery

Fiend

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LOL. I didn't actually say that I was shit at big moves on big holds, nor that I hate it, nor, for that matter, that I have any issues with high bunched feet (which have been fine on the few occasions I've found problems that climb like that)

What I'm after, aside from that, is training something I feel weak at i.e. normal-ish moves in steep terrain with small handholds I struggle to latch, hang on to, and move off, and small feet that really force body tension. Which, amazingly enough, might be why I'm trying to find that sort of stuff  :blink:

Further, if there are shorter setters at the 6B-C level which I'm quite suspicious you 7B-C lot would have the faintest idea about  :P , then okay, maybe they're shit setters (which I'm familiar with from previous board attempts - being strong does not mean having good taste).

Oh, and if I start using resin holds I'll be curtailing my session by at least a third if not more due to skin burn.

petejh

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Have you searched youtube etc. for the probs you're trying? it's a useful resource (and amazing that people will categorise accurately MB problem #25763 xyz'). Can be eye-opening for some of the problems that seem impossible for the short. Lots of jumping going on on the moonboard - I'd put good money on betting that a lot of the probs you're trying that feel nails with feet on, are done by well-timed massive dyno's. Not by body tension and keeping feet on.  In short (see what I did), you're doing it wrong back around for dabbing (feet on the holds).

Fiend

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Christ. Do I want to watch some 15k views clickbait wankery slo-mo-fest with some scrawny bag of piss aidan-wannabe "smashing out sick moonboard problems" 8 grades below his max for beta?? I'd rather set up a camera in my toilet bowl and watch it on repeat.


moose

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Fiend I think you'd be surprised at how short a lot of the moon boarders are.

I'm pretty tall and find the FFH style of Moon Boards an anathema. No matter the grade of the problem,  I fall off trying to gather my feet onto the starting handholds. If height is an advantage,  it's only for those already advantaged by strength, power, flexibility etc.


Fultonius

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Fiend I think you'd be surprised at how short a lot of the moon boarders are.

Says UKB's biggest outlier  ;D

I'm pretty tall and find the FFH style of Moon Boards an anathema. No matter the grade of the problem,  I fall off trying to gather my feet onto the starting handholds. If height is an advantage,  it's only for those already advantaged by strength, power, flexibility etc.

joel182

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A great place to check for short person beta (and for problem suggestions) on the 2016 Moonboard set is five3benchmark's instagram account who is 5'3 and posts videos of benchmarks.

Fiend

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Episode 4.

In which Fiend actually gets a grip and stops moaning all the time....

























....aye fucking right. I only go on the damn thing so I can moan about it. Moanboard it is then.

I made some progress this session. Not with doing any better, nor getting any stronger, not getting any more tolerant of all the foibles, but in finding problems that are Not As Shit As The Average Dross. Using the convenient on-screen tool tips for the app that clearly explain the functi... *AHEM* accidentally swiping right whilst trying to work out how the hell I was accidentally bookmarking problems, I discovered that immediately lit up the next problem on the board without going back and forth selecting problems. So I spent a joyous 5 minutes going through the pre-filteredd 6B+-6C-wooden-holds-only-ordered-by-popularity, immediately dismissing all the garbage that was only 3 holds between start and finish, and only bothering to look up at all when there were enough holds to promise 1. Decent training and 2. Decent climbing. Thus I managed to bookmark a fine selection of things with good cranking and small holds for good contact strength training, by which time I was too tired to actually get up anything - but a brief sampling indicated I was definitely on the right track with flatties and crimps thrown in the mix.


moose

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Fiend I think you'd be surprised at how short a lot of the moon boarders are.

Says UKB's biggest outlier  ;D

I'm pretty tall and find the FFH style of Moon Boards an anathema. No matter the grade of the problem,  I fall off trying to gather my feet onto the starting handholds. If height is an advantage,  it's only for those already advantaged by strength, power, flexibility etc.

Not an outlier any more, I just had a fingerboard session after 6-7 weeks wrist knack injury lay-off. The results were tragic. Inactivity and unhappiness has me in a weak and heavy place.  Hey ho... I'll strive to be fit for Autumn, or at least Spring.

erm, sam

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Fiend, what is the Moonboard set up at Awesome? Keen to have a bash. If I'm setting it up in the app, is it 2019 hold setup and then select click the hold options?

Fiend

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Yup. Standard typ, Moonboard Masters 2019, 40 degrees, all hold sets. One slight annoyance is there is a vertical sidewall perpendicular to the left side which can get a bit dabby pulling on there.

Fiend

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I've just managed my Moonboard BENCHMARK project, Design In Malice 6B+, after 30-40 attempts spread over 6-7 sessions. As I crawled through the incremental and demoralising micro-progression to get tiny bits closer, I was thinking 7A+ as the actual grade, on actually doing it it felt desperate but almost manageable, so I maybe thought 7A. But then trying and failing to repeat it (now having the moves dialled and with plenty of rest in between) I couldn't repeat it after several goes. So I'm settling on 7A+. Top quality benchmark, well done everyone.

I've noticed that as I've continued with the Moonboard session, it's been an interesting progression and by progression I actually mean regression. The first few sessions I did actually feel like progress, like I was "getting stronger", although I think what it actually was was simply re-awakening my body to pulling hard-for-me. Then there was a plateauing, at which point I didn't want to overtrain and not recover enough, so I dropped the sessions from twice weekly to once weekly, but also kept up with occasional outdoor bouldering sessions (training in themselves) as well as the ledge shuffling for all round exercise / activity, and plenty of rest otherwise, which would seem an optimum balance. The end result being the last few sessions I've, despite the "victory" above, felt myself get slowly but steadily weaker. Which is interesting.

Still, I've got the rest of my 40s and then into my 50s to keep getting stronger and stronger, and all those MB / FB / Campus PBs to look forward to....  :lol: :lol: :lol:    :'( :'( :'(

Fiend

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It's deeply upsetting to see climbing going this way though; just another conveyor belt of performance induced misery, leaching the heart and soul from the participants and regurgitating repetitive "competition" in the name of money and mass entertainment.
All you (pointing around in general) Goal Climbers are guilty (or the root cause?!) of this, it's the natural extrapolation of the tail-wagging-dog number-chasing mentality!!

You wave the Goal Climbers flag a lot, but everyone's goal is to get to the top of the climb. Your top might be a soaring arete in the Dales but it's no more or less valid than matching the jug in a roadside limestone cave or topping the lead comp route.

Last time I checked you had your very own moonboard progress thread to help achieve your cranking goals. I welcome you with open (strong) arms to the Goal Climbers Collective ;)
You keep your fucking long strong muscle-up arms away from me  :P

The difference is for me, I'm not trying to tick any particular numbers or indeed have any cranking goals, I'm just trying to tackling glaring weaknesses in my all round abilities.

And the difference with "everyone's goal is to get to the top of the climb"....

A hypothetical Competition Soul Climber wants to get to the top of the problem because it's an excellent challenge with fantastic climbing and an intriguing puzzle (and this is why I like watching competitions, for those aspects).

A  Competition Goal Climber wants to get to the top of the problem to get a medal (i.e. the same reasoning that an Outdoor Goal Climber wants to get their big number medal).

The latter is the one that comes with the issues that Bradders highlighted........


 

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