Still had very thin skin on the left index - this is still residual from the deep split on matts roof at the very end of December which hasn't had been given a chance to fully heal.
Called at the Glen on the way home and did the "7B" Glen Campus Low without the plinth on the first go. More like 7A.
Quote from: Will Hunt on February 03, 2019, 05:54:50 pmCalled at the Glen on the way home and did the "7B" Glen Campus Low without the plinth on the first go. More like 7A.I had always assumed from the names that these traverses eschewed the use of feet completely, is this not the case?
Might have a go footless next time I'm there and see how they feel.
Quote from: Will Hunt on February 03, 2019, 09:09:55 pmMight have a go footless next time I'm there and see how they feel. I would pay money to watch this.it would be like watching clothes on a washing line on a windy day.
Quote from: teestub on February 03, 2019, 08:02:17 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on February 03, 2019, 05:54:50 pmCalled at the Glen on the way home and did the "7B" Glen Campus Low without the plinth on the first go. More like 7A.I had always assumed from the names that these traverses eschewed the use of feet completely, is this not the case?Given that the grades are so soft on each of them, I have suggested this before and was told that I was just being mean.Might have a go footless next time I'm there and see how they feel. They're popular problems and I've never seen anyone try them footless.
T - went to Caley thinking it'd be wet with all the fog about. Amazed to find it bone dry. It was about -4'C; cheating cons basically but only if you could stay warm. After warming up I managed Juju Club 2nd go, then Zoo Stand first go which was a massive confidence boost. Went from the start once on Zoo and matched my high point again, then after a couple more tries did the deadpoint/cut loose link. Unfortunately at that point everyone else who's pads were under the problem got too cold and left. Repeated Blockbuster twice with the jump start and had lots of goes at the low, feeling sort of close. Finally, I went down to Crystal Method and managed the retro-flash, which I'm about as chuffed with as anything I've ever done in climbing. On my way home went to the Depot and did about an hour on the 50. Mainly tried easier stuff and enjoyed trying a new one from Tom F.
Quote from: Bradders on February 04, 2019, 09:18:48 pmT - went to Caley thinking it'd be wet with all the fog about. Amazed to find it bone dry. It was about -4'C; cheating cons basically but only if you could stay warm. After warming up I managed Juju Club 2nd go, then Zoo Stand first go which was a massive confidence boost. Went from the start once on Zoo and matched my high point again, then after a couple more tries did the deadpoint/cut loose link. Unfortunately at that point everyone else who's pads were under the problem got too cold and left. Repeated Blockbuster twice with the jump start and had lots of goes at the low, feeling sort of close. Finally, I went down to Crystal Method and managed the retro-flash, which I'm about as chuffed with as anything I've ever done in climbing. On my way home went to the Depot and did about an hour on the 50. Mainly tried easier stuff and enjoyed trying a new one from Tom F.strong day, allez
strong day, allez
I have to admit that I was a little shocked at the amount of climbing that was described in one day.Bradders, you must have a pass for the Depot? I can't imagine paying to just call in for an hour. Do you think the post-climbing 50 board session is particularly useful? Presumably you're getting powered out by that point?
Quote from: 36chambers on February 06, 2019, 01:47:13 pmstrong day, allez Cheers! Like I say, cheating cons.Quote from: Will Hunt on February 06, 2019, 03:07:20 pmI have to admit that I was a little shocked at the amount of climbing that was described in one day.Bradders, you must have a pass for the Depot? I can't imagine paying to just call in for an hour. Do you think the post-climbing 50 board session is particularly useful? Presumably you're getting powered out by that point?Haha well if you think about it when you do things first or second go you're not actually doing that much climbing it's something I've been trying to improve on recently, doing things that are hard for me but not really near my limit either first go or within a couple of goes (hence my 'one attempt only' sessions mentioned in previous PC entries). Yes I have a pass; I live <5mins drive or 10-15mins walk away, and it's right on my way home from Caley so tend to be able to nip in quite quickly. I think it could be useful, depending on how you do it. What I tried to do was treat it as a strength/power endurance session, I.e. doing relatively easy problems with short rests inbetween, as opposed to a limit boulder session wherein I would normally take 5 mins rest or so at least and concentrate on much harder problems. However, I definitely did still over-cook it as when I went back to Zoo on Saturday I was clearly not rested enough. I think if you were planning to maybe just do some conditioning the following day, with a rest day after that, I think it would work really well in terms of creating a big base of power volume, the goal being to build fitness and have a greater overall work capacity (thus allowing more quality attempts in a session when trying a project, or being able to do a greater volume of slightly below limit problems).
if you want to train and feel you can train you should train.
[. What I tried to do was treat it as a strength/power endurance session, I.e. doing relatively easy problems with short rests inbetween, as opposed to a limit boulder session wherein I would normally take 5 mins rest or so at least and concentrate on much harder problems. However, I definitely did still over-cook it as when I went back to Zoo on Saturday I was clearly not rested enough. I think if you were planning to maybe just do some conditioning the following day, with a rest day after that, I think it would work really well in terms of creating a big base of power volume, the goal being to build fitness and have a greater overall work capacity (thus allowing more quality attempts in a session when trying a project, or being able to do a greater volume of slightly below limit problems).
Haha well if you think about it when you do things first or second go you're not actually doing that much climbing
T. PM Foundry autobelay laps. Met Slab Happy
TomTom- doesn’t sound like you’d have any use for better session fitness?
Can’t speak for anyone else but I’m massively invested in the Voyager story James!
This is what I was thinking. Assuming the “lots of” goes at Blockbuster low were about 5-10 it’s only 15-20 pull-ons at Caley plus an hour or so on the board which can’t be that many goes. All hard moves though obviously.
Wish I had more session fitness (Shark is good at this btw) but I simply don’t have the time to train it. I get (and consider myself fortunate) opps to do 2-3 c.90-120 min sessions (outside or inside) a week - and this mostly ends up focusing on trying to do hard shit
Quote from: cheque on February 07, 2019, 09:54:27 amTomTom- doesn’t sound like you’d have any use for better session fitness?Quite possibly. Though sometimes it’s frustrating when I’m working a problem - have 3-4 decent attempts and am then goosed. May well be linked to not resting enough (between attempts and/or between sessions) of the vicious circle of not having any session stamina to train my session stamina :D
The only way I would get two sessions out of myself in a day is doing the strength based stuff first up followed by some more endurancey things later, circuits, FOC etc.
Timed rests is a good way to work on it.
Quote from: cheque on February 07, 2019, 09:54:27 amCan’t speak for anyone else but I’m massively invested in the Voyager story James!Same, I'm finding it really inspiring