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John Allen Waddage (Read 4384 times)

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John Allen Waddage
February 02, 2019, 07:13:16 pm
Managed to scratch my way up ‘the children’s house’ at cratcliffe today. The final move to the sloper off a terrible right hand was like falling upwards. This has to be one of the toughest few moves on a route from that era. Font 7b+ maybe. Total waddage to the man. This is a short clip of me dry firing off the crux last week. Your left foot goes up from here and then fall up to a sloper leftwards awesome stuff. Any of you wads done it? I’d be keen to hear a consensus on difficulty as it must have been up there at the time?


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#1 Re: John Allen Waddage
February 02, 2019, 08:37:06 pm
Nice work Dan  :clap2:

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#2 Re: John Allen Waddage
February 02, 2019, 09:00:15 pm
Cheers Dave, it took me 2 sessions and had a cheeky ab to clean / de scrittle and pull in to the holds. Which are pretty poor. Bizarrely I’m looking for info about it I found an old discussion on here, about guess what? Climbing ethics! Chortle - pretty much the same conversation with the same protagonists 12 years later.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=8013.25

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#3 Re: John Allen Waddage
February 03, 2019, 09:57:30 am
Actually found a nice bit of history in Peak Rock about this. Apparently it says it’s his hardest problem? I’m not sure it’s as tricky as Shirley’s, possibly similar but always hard for to tell when on a route high up.

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#4 Re: John Allen Waddage
February 03, 2019, 10:22:48 am
Pretty sure the Peak Rock quote was based on the info in the thread you linked.

Good effort though, not heard of any other ascents. Ben and I didn't have a protracted session but it was clearly tough, I remember mostly being baffled by the lack of options.

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#5 Re: John Allen Waddage
February 03, 2019, 10:33:02 am
Can’t imagine you lads would have any problems if you decided to climb it. I was just startled at the quality of the moves. Great seeking out these gems. E5 7a seems fair. Probably took about 3 hours of repeated goes to find a sequence then a lot of luck and the right conditions to do it. Even then I could have been off at any point in the crux sequence

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#6 Re: John Allen Waddage
February 07, 2019, 06:50:19 pm
Good effort on all your latest ascents Dan! Would be good to see the vid, it isn't working for me?

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#7 Re: John Allen Waddage
February 07, 2019, 07:35:05 pm
Hey thanks Mark, just attempting to share the good vibes on the esoteric mid range extremes. Yeah the vids, pulled the plug in a fit of pique. Haha. Will probably return to it at some point no doubt.

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#8 Re: John Allen Waddage
February 10, 2019, 12:12:42 am
Hey Mark, nice to bump into you today. Here’s that beta vid of me spitting off the last move


 

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