Ben to attempt Agincourt 30 years on (Read 18120 times)

shark · January 29, 2019, 12:25:15 pm

Quote from: Ben Moon link=https://www.instagram.com/p/BtN1qeRj46k/

After a civilised overnight ferry from Hull and a fairly leisurely drive down the autoroute du soliel we’re back once again climbing at Buoux in glorious sunshine. We had bets on whether we’d have the crag to ourselves and I won, we do! Amazing. We’re taking it easy today in preparation for hopefully filming on my old route Agincourt which I climbed 30 years ago this month! Judging by how the 6b+ warm up felt my expectations are low but whatever, it’s great to be back and hopefully we’ll have a fun week. Meeting up with @sebbouin tomorrow and hopefully @chris_sharma at the weekend if he can free up some playtime.

Hope his finger holds up

Doylo · January 29, 2019, 12:31:14 pm

Pretty cool, hope his fingers survive. Looks like tendon warfare.

Paul B · January 29, 2019, 01:09:55 pm

Quote from: Doylo on January 29, 2019, 12:31:14 pm

Pretty cool, hope his fingers survive. Looks like tendon warfare.

~~Hard~~ routes at Buoux are just savage.

Doylo · January 29, 2019, 01:13:52 pm

Anything over 6b is living end.

teestub · January 29, 2019, 02:56:28 pm

Climbing nostalgia, so hot right now!

Teaboy · January 29, 2019, 04:20:53 pm

Quote from: teestub on January 29, 2019, 02:56:28 pm

Climbing nostalgia, so hot right now!

It is with me, that picture of TCF brought back many happy memories (including one suitable for an old thread on here). More pertinently, has any UK climber repeated Agincourt (other than Rich Simpson, I'm not sure if this was one of his disputed ascents or not)?

jwi · January 29, 2019, 04:56:28 pm

Strong team. Would be more psyched if anyone did either the extension to Il etait une voie or the extension to Le minimum that Antoine Menestrel bolted this year instead.

Teaboy · January 29, 2019, 05:08:36 pm

Surely this is what we all want to see or is this the first one you mention (I've no idea where I'll etait une voie is)

Wood FT · January 29, 2019, 09:07:58 pm

Quote from: shark on January 29, 2019, 12:25:15 pm

Quote from: Ben Moon link=https://www.instagram.com/p/BtN1qeRj46k/
After a civilised overnight ferry from Hull and a fairly leisurely drive down the autoroute du soliel we’re back once again climbing at Buoux in glorious sunshine. We had bets on whether we’d have the crag to ourselves and I won, we do! Amazing. We’re taking it easy today in preparation for hopefully filming on my old route Agincourt which I climbed 30 years ago this month! Judging by how the 6b+ warm up felt my expectations are low but whatever, it’s great to be back and hopefully we’ll have a fun week. Meeting up with @sebbouin tomorrow and hopefully @chris_sharma at the weekend if he can free up some playtime.

Civilised overnight ferry from Hull? Fake news!

Teaboy · January 29, 2019, 09:22:08 pm

Quote from: Teaboy on January 29, 2019, 05:08:36 pm

Surely this is what we all want to see or is this the first one you mention (I've no idea where I'll etait une voie is)

Just realised I meant to post this:
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/bombe-bleu-at-buoux-attempted-by-nicolas-januel.html

shark · May 03, 2019, 09:01:41 pm

Obviously not a send but perfect Friday night viewing

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s8EujPDtKg4&feature=youtu.be

DAVETHOMAS90 · May 04, 2019, 02:05:24 am

Thanks to Ben and Steve, and Ben - and Shark, for that.

What a great pleasure to watch

Is that road in Apt always wet and covered in mud?!

Classic.

Doylo · May 04, 2019, 08:00:18 am

Ace.

Wood FT · May 04, 2019, 09:19:21 am

That was great

Nibile · May 04, 2019, 01:06:39 pm

While I struggled a bit with this new, vaguely hipster look, to watch Ben climb is still amazing. The way he moves hasn't changed at all. Power on and motoring upwards.
Legend.

DAVETHOMAS90 · May 04, 2019, 02:42:20 pm

Quote from: Nibile on May 04, 2019, 01:06:39 pm

While I struggled a bit with this new, vaguely hipster look, to watch Ben climb is still amazing. The way he moves hasn't changed at all. Power on and motoring upwards.
Legend.

Beards of Power.

Oh no!

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/doccellis/beards-of-power/

andy popp · May 04, 2019, 02:46:44 pm

I love that when Ben eventually gets back on the route he realizes its all a bit unpleasant and completely loses his psyche.

Doylo · May 04, 2019, 04:23:47 pm

Short and pockets is usually painful. Love how he just tries to do La Rose first go putting the clips in.

Nibile · May 04, 2019, 05:20:00 pm

Quote from: Doylo on May 04, 2019, 04:23:47 pm

Love how he just tries to do La Rose first go putting the clips in.

Yeah just because he'd done it first go putting the clips in 13 years ago. Nutter! And legend.

teestub · May 04, 2019, 10:02:54 pm

Quote from: andy popp on May 04, 2019, 02:46:44 pm

I love that when Ben eventually gets back on the route he realizes its all a bit unpleasant and completely loses his psyche.

For its legendary status, the climbing at Buoux looks very unpleasant!

DAVETHOMAS90 · May 05, 2019, 02:44:34 am

Excuse my crass "Beards of Power" post above. Sorry.

A separate thread maybe

Ben, and Lore, you are both prime candidates.

However, I think Ben's loss/growth of hair has caused a bit of speculation before. How much did those dreads weigh, and were they the source of power?

It's amazing to see just how deserted the crag is in the video. I have to admit, I was never a great fan, but some of those routes are bloody inspiring.

Kingy · May 05, 2019, 08:11:53 am

Great video, shows how hard top brits were climbing back then!

Intererestingly, it took Seb Bouin 5 - 6 sessions to repeat and (from the video) it looks like a different (possibly easier?) sequence was discovered.

Seb thought the route was harder than Cabane au Canada 9a! $:-\$ His thoughts are in this Grimper article (dodgy translation alert!) Looks like there is some grade inflation going on since 89

https://www.grimper.com/news-azincourt-premier-8c-france-seb-bouin-ajoute-nouvelle-piece-vintage-rock-tour

Ru · May 05, 2019, 07:32:05 pm

Quote from: Kingy on May 05, 2019, 08:11:53 am

Intererestingly, it took Seb Bouin 5 - 6 sessions to repeat and (from the video) it looks like a different (possibly easier?) sequence was discovered.

Seb thought the route was harder than Cabane au Canada 9a! $:-\$ His thoughts are in this Grimper article (dodgy translation alert!) Looks like there is some grade inflation going on since 89

Also interesting that Didier Raboutou did the (2nd/3rd?) ascent on his second day after one day working it, in 1990.

Kingy · May 06, 2019, 08:34:18 am

Wow, not too shabby! Anybody know how many repeats Agincourt has had? I understand its the 'least repeated 8c in France'! I know that Patrick Edlinger repeated it in 1989 (2nd ascent?)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrick_Edlinger

and Stefan Glowacz did it too:

http://www.johnhorscroft.co.uk/portfolio/interviews/-/the-ascent-of-stefan-glowacz/

Any other known ascents other than Didier's?

On a side note, what is the least repeated 8c in the UK? $:-\$

Wood FT · May 06, 2019, 09:35:17 am

Quote from: Kingy on May 06, 2019, 08:34:18 am

Wow, not too shabby! Anybody know how many repeats Agincourt has had? I understand its the 'least repeated 8c in France'! I know that Patrick Edlinger repeated it in 1989 (2nd ascent?)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrick_Edlinger

and Stefan Glowacz did it too:

http://www.johnhorscroft.co.uk/portfolio/interviews/-/the-ascent-of-stefan-glowacz/

Any other known ascents other than Didier's?

On a side note, what is the least repeated 8c in the UK? $:-\$

Endeavour down in Dorset, not had a 2nd ascent yet.

The Bastard (is this considered 8c+ now?)

What’s the 8c through the roof above Rose coronary?