[shark]

After a civilised overnight ferry from Hull and a fairly leisurely drive down the autoroute du soliel we’re back once again climbing at Buoux in glorious sunshine. We had bets on whether we’d have the crag to ourselves and I won, we do! Amazing. We’re taking it easy today in preparation for hopefully filming on my old route Agincourt which I climbed 30 years ago this month! Judging by how the 6b+ warm up felt my expectations are low but whatever, it’s great to be back and hopefully we’ll have a fun week. Meeting up with @sebbouin tomorrow and hopefully @chris_sharma at the weekend if he can free up some playtime.

Hope his finger holds up

[Doylo]

Pretty cool, hope his fingers survive. Looks like tendon warfare.

[Paul B]

Pretty cool, hope his fingers survive. Looks like tendon warfare.

Hard routes at Buoux are just savage.

[Doylo]

Anything over 6b is living end.

[teestub]

Climbing nostalgia, so hot right now!

[Teaboy]

Climbing nostalgia, so hot right now!

It is with me, that picture of TCF brought back many happy memories (including one suitable for an old thread on here). More pertinently, has any UK climber repeated Agincourt (other than Rich Simpson, I'm not sure if this was one of his disputed ascents or not)?

[jwi]

Strong team. Would be more psyched if anyone did either the extension to Il etait une voie or the extension to Le minimum that Antoine Menestrel bolted this year instead.

[Teaboy]

Surely this is what we all want to see or is this the first one you mention (I've no idea where I'll etait une voie is)

[Wood FT]

After a civilised overnight ferry from Hull and a fairly leisurely drive down the autoroute du soliel we’re back once again climbing at Buoux in glorious sunshine. We had bets on whether we’d have the crag to ourselves and I won, we do! Amazing. We’re taking it easy today in preparation for hopefully filming on my old route Agincourt which I climbed 30 years ago this month! Judging by how the 6b+ warm up felt my expectations are low but whatever, it’s great to be back and hopefully we’ll have a fun week. Meeting up with @sebbouin tomorrow and hopefully @chris_sharma at the weekend if he can free up some playtime.

Civilised overnight ferry from Hull? Fake news!

[Teaboy]

Surely this is what we all want to see or is this the first one you mention (I've no idea where I'll etait une voie is)

Just realised I meant to post this:
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/bombe-bleu-at-buoux-attempted-by-nicolas-januel.html

[shark]

Obviously not a send but perfect Friday night viewing

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s8EujPDtKg4&feature=youtu.be

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Thanks to Ben and Steve, and Ben - and Shark, for that.

What a great pleasure to watch 

Is that road in Apt always wet and covered in mud?!


Classic.

[Doylo]

Ace.

[Wood FT]

That was great

[Nibile]

While I struggled a bit with this new, vaguely hipster look, to watch Ben climb is still amazing. The way he moves hasn't changed at all. Power on and motoring upwards.
Legend.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

While I struggled a bit with this new, vaguely hipster look, to watch Ben climb is still amazing. The way he moves hasn't changed at all. Power on and motoring upwards.
Legend.

Beards of Power.

Oh no! 

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/doccellis/beards-of-power/

[andy popp]

I love that when Ben eventually gets back on the route he realizes its all a bit unpleasant and completely loses his psyche.

[Doylo]

Short and pockets is usually painful. Love how he just tries to do La Rose first go putting the clips in.

[Nibile]

Love how he just tries to do La Rose first go putting the clips in.

Yeah just because he'd done it first go putting the clips in 13 years ago. Nutter! And legend.

[teestub]

I love that when Ben eventually gets back on the route he realizes its all a bit unpleasant and completely loses his psyche.

For its legendary status, the climbing at Buoux looks very unpleasant!

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Excuse my crass "Beards of Power" post above. Sorry.

A separate thread maybe  Ben, and Lore, you are both prime candidates.

However, I think Ben's loss/growth of hair has caused a bit of speculation before. How much did those dreads weigh, and were they the source of power?

It's amazing to see just how deserted the crag is in the video. I have to admit, I was never a great fan, but some of those routes are bloody inspiring.

[Kingy]

Great video, shows how hard top brits were climbing back then!

Intererestingly, it took Seb Bouin 5 - 6 sessions to repeat and (from the video) it looks like a different (possibly easier?) sequence was discovered.

Seb thought the route was harder than Cabane au Canada 9a!  His thoughts are in this Grimper article (dodgy translation alert!) Looks like there is some grade inflation going on since 89

https://www.grimper.com/news-azincourt-premier-8c-france-seb-bouin-ajoute-nouvelle-piece-vintage-rock-tour

[Ru]

Intererestingly, it took Seb Bouin 5 - 6 sessions to repeat and (from the video) it looks like a different (possibly easier?) sequence was discovered.

Seb thought the route was harder than Cabane au Canada 9a!  His thoughts are in this Grimper article (dodgy translation alert!) Looks like there is some grade inflation going on since 89

Also interesting that Didier Raboutou did the (2nd/3rd?) ascent on his second day after one day working it, in 1990.

[Kingy]

Wow, not too shabby! Anybody know how many repeats Agincourt has had? I understand its the 'least repeated 8c in France'! I know that Patrick Edlinger repeated it in 1989 (2nd ascent?)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrick_Edlinger

and Stefan Glowacz did it too:

http://www.johnhorscroft.co.uk/portfolio/interviews/-/the-ascent-of-stefan-glowacz/

Any other known ascents other than Didier's?

On a side note, what is the least repeated 8c in the UK? 

[Wood FT]

Wow, not too shabby! Anybody know how many repeats Agincourt has had? I understand its the 'least repeated 8c in France'! I know that Patrick Edlinger repeated it in 1989 (2nd ascent?)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrick_Edlinger

and Stefan Glowacz did it too:

http://www.johnhorscroft.co.uk/portfolio/interviews/-/the-ascent-of-stefan-glowacz/

Any other known ascents other than Didier's?

On a side note, what is the least repeated 8c in the UK? 

Endeavour down in Dorset, not had a 2nd ascent yet.

The Bastard (is this considered 8c+ now?)

What’s the 8c through the roof above Rose coronary?

[Nibile]

Excuse my crass "Beards of Power" post above. Sorry.

A separate thread maybe  Ben, and Lore, you are both prime candidates.

I read in an old interview on Grimper that Ben kept the dreads in an empty glass somewhere but they got lost at some point. There was also a historical picture of Chris Griffith doing the job with a pair of big scissors!

[Fiend]

I like Ben's beard, it's quite noble. I'm getting grey in my goatee bit too so it's quite reassuring. I might be able to repeat Cairn when I'm 50 or something.

[Teaboy]

]

Any other known ascents other than Didier's?

Francois Dreyfus made the 5th ascent.

[jwi]

Wow, not too shabby! Anybody know how many repeats Agincourt has had? I understand its the 'least repeated 8c in France'! I know that Patrick Edlinger repeated it in 1989 (2nd ascent?)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrick_Edlinger

It appears that the wikipedia entry is wrong. Patrick Edlinger never did Agincourt. Cf. the discussion below the line here: http://fanatic-climbing.com/azincourt-premier-8c-francais-agincourt-first-french-8c/

[DAVETHOMAS90]

This is all so inspiring.

Downloaded the photo of Didier from that article.

 

[Ru]

Any other known ascents other than Didier's?

Ingo Graebner (a Frankenjura climber still climbing font 8a/b) did it in '94 and said he thought it was the 5th/6th ascent.

[Kingy]

Good knowledge guys.

Regarding Edlinger, that is a shame if its become lost in the mists of time. I guess we may never know whether he did it, I see the local doubters. Here is the first bit of an OTE article by Stephen Gough with an indepth interview with Edlinger himself from Feb 1996 where it is mentioned he climbed it (see 2nd para on second page). If he didn't climb it surely he would pipe up and say so when this article says he did. 

http://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNcCiH29pBs8GMfQgaMZjTDdfKERQggptURWUKJ

http://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNFTGYCg4GAPHEWAJ3Fzqsy6XMj6YHOz2F-Z4Vk


The Bastard is now 8c+. Yes, Endeavour is a strong candidate. I guess location is a key factor in repeatability. I'm going for 'Somehow Super' on the Cornice or maybe even 'Rooster crossing' at the Tor Form an orderly queue...

Here is a good list https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1235

just spotted 'Hatrick edgeclinger' from the article...  Surely a ready made name for a problem....

[jwi]

I get error 404s on the links above?

[Kingy]

I get error 404s on the links above?

I hope this works now



Damn the insert image function isn't working with Google photos, worked last time. Feb 96 On the edge is where the PE interview is printed

[remus]

Ted, you might be better off putting the photos in an album on google photos and then getting a sharing link for the album.

[SA Chris]

Don't think any of the 8cs at the Anvil have been repeated.

[Kingy]

Ted, you might be better off putting the photos in an album on google photos and then getting a sharing link for the album.

Try this

Still doesn't work even with an album, sorry!

[cheque]

[SA Chris]

Remember devouring that article. i used to read OTE cover to cover in those days.

Wasn't there a photo of him doing the route in the marble quarry in France everyone did for the photos (Petit Etoile?) in it as well?

[smellyfox]

Don't think any of the 8cs at the Anvil have been repeated.

I seem to remember Allan Cassidy (sp) repeated Metalcore a few years back.

[SA Chris]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=707

Looks that way, expect he may have done the 8cs too.