Torquil at Lanberis resoles has done a couple of pairs of instincts for me. He loves them as apparently the shape of the sole (split) makes them really straightforward to do. Last pair I had done with the slightly thinner scarpa rubber (forgot what its called) to effectively make them a pair of VSR’s (which are VS with the thinner rubber). Worked very well for me.
Interesting that nobody has had issues with their uppers?My VSRs that I had resoled (2 pairs) both tore large holes near the knuckle and in the corresponding place near the smallest toe. They didn't last long after that as the split propergated and to me, it seemed like a false economy.
£42!
On the comment about the uppers I did have that problem with the first pair I bought and was aware of others having the same issue but with the following 2 pairs this hasn’t been a problem. I just though that I learnt how to climb in them!
36C - I've had two sets of instincts go through like that on the knuckle - and I moved up a size (from 41 to 41.5) and no more problems (and my feet are happier..)
The uppers on instincts really piss me off (but I've yet to find a better shoe). They go through long before the bottoms. Llanberis resoles added some toe caps which have worked a treat and even made certain toehooks much better. These actually seem more resilient than the soles I mentioned previously. But when they eventually peel I just use Shoe Goo to stick them back down. I recently transferred some to newer shoes and they seem fine for now.
Llanberis resoles added some toe caps
I clearly have shit footwork
Quote from: 36chambers on January 22, 2019, 08:50:35 amLlanberis resoles added some toe capsWhat did you ask for to get them to do this for you? I have the same problem w my Instincts and was told [by Llanberis] it wouldn't be possible to repair. It was quite a while ago though.
If I remember correctly there was no mention of upper toe repair on their site (this was 2016), but I e-mailed them some pictures and asked if they could give me a quote, I got the impression they had done the repair on plenty of instincts.
Quote from: 36chambers on January 22, 2019, 08:50:35 amThe uppers on instincts really piss me off (but I've yet to find a better shoe). They go through long before the bottoms. Llanberis resoles added some toe caps which have worked a treat and even made certain toehooks much better. These actually seem more resilient than the soles I mentioned previously. But when they eventually peel I just use Shoe Goo to stick them back down. I recently transferred some to newer shoes and they seem fine for now. Do those toe patches affect you at all when you're on small holds on a vert or slabby wall? They look like they stick out quite a long way.
Quote from: 36chambers on January 22, 2019, 08:53:38 amI clearly have shit footwork Could also be due to the fact that you climb at Demon Wall Roof for ~90% of your waking hours?