[shark]

Power Club

11.3-6 Average 159.1lb down 1.1lb

M. AM Physio to sort right shoulder out mainly which strained I onMarks Roof and maybe made worse at weights session. Booked to go back tomorrow for left shoulder which has longstanding not fully resolved ROM issue

T.Gardoms 8 degress but cloudy and and occasional breeze so not bad. Surprisingly Dolly turned up. Despite feeling sore from previous days battening felt good dogging it from standing so decided to just try from start as felt redpoint would give enough impetus for the final udges. Not to be. 7 decent attempts with rests and popping over to spot Dolly on Kidneystone. Climbed till it was nearly dark again. Pleased with session endurance.

W. Morning. Max hangs strict half crimp. Increased added weight by 2.5kg. Pinches after
Afternoon. Foundry. Spent about a couple of hours trying Plattsy's green and black spots. Alost did it in two halves. Suits the taller dynamic gentleman..
Evening. Gruelling strength class especially for a lazy shark. Never done so much volume/density. Hard warm up followed by 84! deadlifts mainly @ 85kg, 39 benchpresses, 20 weight off and weighted pullups and load of other stuff ( cable rows, standing landmine, hip thrust and high steps, weighted lock off, weighted pinches)

T.

F. Cold and cloudy. Mmmm Was thinking of Blind Date again but got a text from Lagers and the gang (nai, TT, T2T, Plattsy, Dolly) were going to Plantation so decided to be sociable. Unsurprisingly Dolly didn’t turn up. No ticks but tried and hoovered up beta on Pebble Arete sit, Deliverance, Zippys Traverse and Hourglass which I bottled see below

S.Not been on my systems board for a while. Felt strong on benchmarks on warm up and tried last winters AnCap circuit. Got thru throw move 12 six times but quickly burnt out on easier moves after each time. Tried to do a set of 20/10s but got pumped into 3rd rep so stopped. In short I’ve got better at aspects I’ve been training and worse at those I haven’t unsurprisingly. Wiped out after

S. Anderson hangs sess

Big week for me. Feel run down so will take it a easier next week to recharge and give my shoulder a chance to recover. Physio on Monday and will have a 4th session on Marks Roof probably on weds. From what I gather it has probably been a good problem to try in preparation for Albarracin in a couple of weeks.

[Will Hunt]

Where are you coming unstuck on Mark's? I remember locking the break right down and reaching to a high crimp at the end?

T - wanted to go to the Glen and do the low campus without plinth at the end. Arrived at crag and put the lamps on and tried the end with a plinthless sequence in isolation and it was fine. Then failed to link into it from the start. Was impatient wanting to get to the Depot so didn't warm up or rest properly which ended in frustration and just leaving for the depot without ticking it. Got to depot and went on the board to once again demonstrate my crippling weakness. Felt like a terrible session but I suppose I had a little Glen tiredness? Finished with laps of the easiest circuit in the systems board.

F - physio

Sa - dismal scenes at the Cliff. Mist and clag. Hideous. For our sins we had to go to DWR. Had a little warm up and tried Stu's Left. Felt a lot nicer than the previous time I tried it and did eventually figure out the knack for getting established on the two crimps. The problem now is that there's then a cut loose window-wiper move which pokes at my biggest weakness (anything with feet off).
Tore a rank tip flapper and sacked it off to do South Cave Traverse which I've never got round to doing. It went second go, with Jim laughing at what an absolute fucking shambles I am.

God, I'm so weak.

[measles23]

Thanks Shark

65.0kg

M- nul
T- nul
W- Armed forces bouldering league at Milton Keynes Big Rock Bond - possibly my best indoor climbing session ever; won by a solid margin and topped every problem - just everything felt right and in the groove; really need to remember the feeling if I am ever to repeat it.. Alison also did well and beat 20 odd guys
T- the plan was DL, moonboard, fingerboard; the actuality was nul
F- Short evening fingerboard session - 6 sessions up to -5kg (Pulley assist) per side half crimp on BM2k smalls - according to my PC entries that’s a PB so might get back on fingerboarding and see if I can progress (always fantasised about 1 arming the smalls with half crimp..)
S- nul
S- Stoke AW 2 hrs problems up to V7 flash and moonboard session;felt a little tired but strong - tried my new no-edge Geniuses again; tbh not much difference on indoor probs but on the foot jibs on the Stoke moonboard they were fucking ace, allowing me to use holds that had never been an option before.. Just hoping that translates well to shite limestone crozzles

Thassit

[shark]

Where are you coming unstuck on Mark's? I remember locking the break right down and reaching to a high crimp at the end?

Not tall you say? 

Current favoured options:

 LF up to pocket and slap thigh up on slab and press down with LH and udge thigh a bit further up slab and reach top of right ridge formed by small shallow runnel then
Either: turn right hand to press just below jug and press out with RH and straighten left leg to gain height to go for final hold with RH or LH - LH looks best
Or: go for sloper with RH and keep udging cock up slab and straightening left leg to gain height maybe slapping for intermediate

[TobyD]

M Tarbena. Very hot and sunny, had to wait until after 4 for a redpoint but well worth it to do a great 7c
T Bovedos. Tried a long burly 7c+, probably had the guns, but not quite the mojo to get it done, feeling pretty timid for some reason.
W Ocaive. Onsighted a 7b and a few 7a ish things until knackered, walked out in a lovely clear, sunny cool evening.
T flight back to the UK.  snow on the ground, bloody freezing in comparison to Spain. Short run in the evening.
F foundry 45 board & autobelays
S works, tried / did black circuit
S walk around Ladybower reservoir in the morning, 6 km run in the evening.

Good trip to Spain, reinvigorated my enthusiasm for the Costa Blanca, dozens of great crags which aren't wildside, which is obviously awesome too. UK in the winter sucks though.

[tomtom]

M: Plantation with Nai. Not been there for aaaages - so good to get back. Promptly lost a load of shin skin on a warm up :D Found myself sucked back into Deliverance whilst Nai tried the sit to the arete. I came really close to Deliverance about 6-8 years ago (using the tall persons jump high method) so decided to try doing it properly with a high RF/deadpoint style as I'm a better climber now than then (and I can't jump any higher....). Made seductive progress - coming close to tickling the top. Tried Zippys - felt hard. Got frustrated. Tried Brad Pit. Still can't get my foot up readily - time to give up on that one...

T:
W:
Th:

Fri: Big friday out at Plantation with 3T, Nai, Plattsy, Lagers and even Shark. Great laugh. Flailed on Deliverance - Lagers showed me some sneaky Zippys beta that means it should go - but I was losing my core by the time I got round to it - then I pulled my hamstring heel hooking on Born Slappy Skulked off back to the car early - and even forgot to write abusive messages in the dirt on the back of Sharks white Range Rover.

Sa:
Su:

Been doing my tennis elbow palm down wrist curls for the last couple of weeks - and they seem to be working - also been mixing this with some short press ups and short diamond press ups (still well hard..)

[Will Hunt]

Skulked off back to the car early - and even forgot to write abusive messages in the dirt on the back of Sharks white Range Rover

 

Tell me you at least left his windscreen wipers up?

[tommytwotone]

Goal - 3 x new Font 7as outdoors


M: working from home - lunchtime training so stretch, KB deadlifts and squats into 5 x 5 sec on, 5 sec off repeaters, 5 different grip types. Kind of thinking this isn't enough volume but very wary of overdoing it.
F: UKB Plantation session. Start of a weekend away on my tod for me so trying to ration skin / energy. Customary few dabbles at Deliverance (which I've tickled top of before) with no success (turns out I got sucked into using the wrong foothold for me). Got very close on Born Slappy and then tried Pendulum and Glass Hour, each of which exposed a huge weakness in my hip flexibility. Retired to North Lees only to get snowed in!
S: thaw / snow / clag fest out - pottered about, coffee, crossword etc. Ended up at The Works doing mid 6 stuff. Started feeling pretty weird after dinner on return to campsite so took pragmatic option and headed home.
S: Terrible night's sleep, spent all morning feeling weird. Fine now though.


Not the weekend I'd had in mind climbing wise but good to meet up with everyone on the Friday.


Main thing for me now is to keep up the fingerboarding and start doing hip flexibility stretches.

[Fiend]

Skulked off back to the car early - and even forgot to write abusive messages in the dirt on the back of Sharks white Range Rover

  Shocking. That's a NNFN if there ever was one.

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries Week Twenty-two

M- Rest.

T- BeastMaker repeaters, pushups.

W- Gym. First time in the gym on a weeknight this year. Turns out it’s true what they say about a January as it was bloody packed. Bike- raised levels by one since last session (which was mid December) not too much of a shock, encouragingly.

T- filming/ photographing/ location scouting on an amazingly clear day. Also freezing cold. Three of the toes on my left foot went completely dead which is a new thing for me. 

F- Woke up feeling very sore, tired and dehydrated. By the end of the day realised that I was getting ill.

S- Ill.

S- Ill.

[spidermonkey09]

M - rest.

T - Depot. Another good session on the board. Tuesdays appear to be my best day for this type of training. Got pretty close on something that feels desperate for me on the LH side and boshed out various other problems with varying degrees of difficulty. Good scene in there lately.

W - back of the Calf after work. Absolutely baltic and a waste of time in hindsight. Did a 6c+ and bailed home!

T - Depot. Got sucked in and overdid it on the circuit board to warm up. Was correspondingly useless on the board so decided to cut my losses and get even more pumped. Finished off with a few problems which I hadn't done before.

F - rest. Lots of Guinness in the evening.

S - Almscliff. One of the grimmest days out climbing I've ever had, could barely see the crag from the road. Despite this conditions were very good. Got warm and started trying Demon Wall Roof LH again. Was quite close quite quickly but dropped it a few times the move before the mono. Had a good rest spotting Will on South Cave Traverse before having another go and doing it. Even got a video of the success which makes a nice change! Very pleased with this as felt like the living end last year.

S - Slipstones. Left Leeds in full clag but the further north we headed the better it got. Arrived at the crag in bright sunshine which although pleasant, meant distinctly average conditions. Failed on the vert 6a warmups and failed on Sulky Little Boys in the sun. Sacked it and went to dry Layby Arete with Scott, Tom and Foley. Several hours later we'd sorted the beta and I eventually cracked it. Pleased to get this done in a session. Tom was bleeding from every finger by the end and Scott dropped the crimp at the finish several times; so close! Took advantage of amazing evening conditions to have another round with Sulky Little Boys and did it straightaway. Really good day, great weather and conditions and a good scene. Will be going back to this crag!

Good week despite knackering myself on Wednesday. Skin pretty sore today so will see how it pulls up tomorrow. Might need to start doing some core again...

[duncan]

462 and 463

STG: Manage aches and pains. Aerocap.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this winter, Colorado bucket list routes in May, a classic E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

Elbow (right) and shoulder (left) tweaks tolerating a little more activity but not yet ready for anything close to strength training. I’ve done this all before and know I have to be patient and keep doing the exercises and things will get better. Frustrating as this is turning into another winter of not being able to focus on my major weakness. Still crushing the sharkathon. Weight 4kg above good, 5-6kg above ideal. 4 weeks to Siurana trip.

M - Westway autobelay routes. 75m of trivially easy.
T - Shoulder strength. 10km brisk walking.
W - Westway autobelay routes. As above.
T - Shoulder strength. Hip and knee strength.
F - Westway autobelay routes. Shoulder stretches.
S - Westway autobelay routes. Shoulder stretches. Hip and knee strength.
S - Shoulder strength. Shoulder stretches.
M - Westway autobelay routes. 75m of trivially easy.
T - 15km brisk walking . 
W - Shoulder strength. Shoulder stretches.
T - Westway autobelay routes. As above.
F - Shoulder stretches. 10km brisk walking.
S - Shoulder strength. Shoulder stretches. Ill.
S - Westway autobelay routes. 100m to 6a. 10km walking.

Plan: easy rehab. climbing (aerocap) then ease back into fingerboarding as shoulder/elbow permits.

[Bradders]

M - lunch gym, few rounds of mobility exercises including lunges. Evening Depot. Felt utterly shattered warming up (long day at work after climbing and going to bed too late the night before). Anyway did a yellow and felt warm enough to try hard. After last week's shambolic attempt at one arm hangs I'd brought my rope and pulley this time, so did a benchmarking session. Managed 5x6s on both arms, half crimp on the low centre BM2K edge w/ 7.5kg assistance (c. 89% of bw). Very pleased with that! Also did some hangs on the micros and did a solid 10s on the 8mm but with thumb pinching the side so clearly cheating.

T/W - rested. Terrible DOMS from the lunges!

T - 10/10 on the gritstone conny meter. Out in the afternoon to Brimham. My warm up was poor as I hadn't brought lamps so didn't have masses of time. Back on The Fonz and did the crux sequence to the top after a handful of goes. Had 4 attempts from the start. Best go went to drop LH in and my heel popped. As the sun set I then went up to The Titfield Thunderbolt. Repeated the stand after I remembered my beta, then worked out the sit. Eventually found the way and, as darkness enveloped me, had a perfect go where I could have been off at any moment but somehow made it to the top. Had to run back to the car thereafter, terrified that the gate would be locked and I'd be stuck for the night (it wasn't).

F - Depot. Finally managed one of the more difficult roof based yellows which I'd been trying for a while. Then on the 50 tried and finally did the stand start to A Steady Intro (i.e. without the first 3 moves). Also tried The Pencil Problem but couldn't do the harder moves. Finished up lapping a few of my warm ups and then did aerocap 5x 2mins on 2mins off on the 6a circuit.

S - rest

S - Depot. Did a couple of yellows as part of my warm up then max one arm hangs, half crimp on the low BM2K edge. Based on Monday's results after some warm up hangs I upped the assistance to 10kg and did 4x 10s. Felt really maximal and was nearly dropping the last couple so for a final hang upped the assistance to 12.5kg and 10s felt okay. Finished with a 'one attempt only' session on the easier yellows. Tried 7 and did 6 dropping one stupidly when my foot popped.

[gme]

Mon- rest
Tues- 1st split session.
Lunch time - one arm Max hang test. My one arm hang strength is pretty shocking so only managed -18kg on lh and -17kg  rh. All on a 20mm edge with a body weight of 83kg.
I checked the amount of weight off when using 18kg on a pulley and its equivalent to 13kg so my fingers are capable of hanging around 70kg for 7 secs which is higher than a lot of strong climbers i know. However as a % of body weight at 85% its shit and if i am going to get it up to 100% i have a lot of work to do or a lot of weight to loose.

PM - Campus board session. Stuck doing 1-4-6 and 1-3-6 on big rungs and struggle to push with my trailing arm so need to work on that before trying to do 1-4-7. Wide ladders on balls to finish.

Wed- Ancap  Broken redpoint on sections of the 7c+ at the valley newcastle (top draw facility if your ever in Newcastle). Then boulder triples on the campus board which ended up being to hard.

Thurs- Rest. 30 mins yoga and Crimpd app stretching

Fri - Yoga and Crimpd stretching. PM Max hangs in garage. Not as good as tuesday but different board and i felt a bit tired.

Sat - big day down at the Valley. Bouldered for 45 mins up to 7A followed by campus session. Again little improvement towards 1-4-7 so need to change something. Then boulder triples 12 moves x 3 with 1 min rest x 6 sets with three mins rest between sets. Really good session and managed to pitch it perfectly falling on the last few reps of the last set.

Sun- Was supposed to do weights with my youngest after rugby but ended up with him in A&E again. Nothing broken this time but 3 weeks off with hyper extension of his elbow. Needed a rest anyway.

Another great week and properly enjoying training. Moving my focus from strength and power to ancap stuff for the next 3-4 weeks. Really enjoying endurance training which i never used to enjoy or do very often back in the day. The efficiency of modern interval training makes it more user friendly than how we used to train and seems to allow more moves to be done in a much shorter period of time. Fingers crossed it works.

Also managed to keep my calorie intake under 1900 a day focusing on more protein and fats with less carbs. Not touched alcohol since 1st jan. Have not checked my weight since last Tuesday as i always do it at the school on the same scales. Hopefully moving towards my 77kg target.

[tomtom]

Skulked off back to the car early - and even forgot to write abusive messages in the dirt on the back of Sharks white Range Rover

  Shocking. That's a NNFN if there ever was one.

Well I was more concerned about my hamstring as I limped off down the hill (wondering how it would feel after an hour drive..)

[gollum]

M-F Snowboarding

S- Run every day 5k in freezing conditions in Austria

S- Run every day 5k in marginally warmer conditions in Yorkshire

[Nibile]

Power Club

Power Club

Mon - overhead barbell walk 1/1 x10.
Tue - rest.
Wed - snatch pull x1, power clean x2, one arm hang on 2 cm edge, x5. Then some random hangs. Short on time, average session, not really satisfied.
Thu - rest.
Fri -  rest.
Sat - snatch pulls x5, clean and press x5, paused deadlift x3, static/dynamic pull ups x3, x6. Brutal.
Sun - farmer's 80 kg 1/1 x10. Boxing bag.

[jamesturnbull97]

Can probably stop referring to these as ankle updates now and instead complaining about how weak I am currently.

M. East coast was pumping, went out on one of the points. Solid 8ft, spent 2hrs constantly paddling against currents and getting cleaned up the length of the point but got 2 storming lefts for my workout.
T.  Swell had calmed down and cleaned up, got a couple of really good sessions at some undisclosed locations. With only a couple of guys out and 4ft clean offshore the afternoon session was one of the best surf I've had a long time. https://www.instagram.com/p/BsyQQEUBbAo/
W.
T. Warmed up on my board, first time I'd climbed on it this season as I'd put a load of new holds on just before injuring myself. Then Caley with Buck, prime conditions but just did mileage on the circuit of classics as struggled to stand on any foothold that involved any sort of slight angle. On the plus side I was able to jump in control without it hurting.
F. Fun session at Runswick outer bombie in the morning, challenging conditions with big shifting peaks. Finished off by getting pounded at Sandsend, caught one wave for my troubles.
S & S. CWI Training course.

[highrepute]

S - Slipstones. Left Leeds in full clag but the further north we headed the better it got. Arrived at the crag in bright sunshine which although pleasant, meant distinctly average conditions. Failed on the vert 6a warmups and failed on Sulky Little Boys in the sun. Sacked it and went to dry Layby Arete with Scott, Tom and Foley. Several hours later we'd sorted the beta and I eventually cracked it. Pleased to get this done in a session. Tom was bleeding from every finger by the end and Scott dropped the crimp at the finish several times; so close! Took advantage of amazing evening conditions to have another round with Sulky Little Boys and did it straightaway. Really good day, great weather and conditions and a good scene. Will be going back to this crag!

Sounds like one of those perfect days

[nai]

M -
Plantation with tt, managed the King Line of Pebble Arete Sit Start
Core
Hip & Leg mobility

T - Shoulder mobility

W -
Hip & leg mobility
Shoulder mobility
Core

Th -
A few Max Hangs as part of warm up, far better than expected
Met Dolly at Gardoms. Climbed appallingly.

F - Big Friday at the Plantation with 2t, 3t, Lagers, Plattsy and Simon.  Good scenes.
Climbed quite well, actually managed some problems that weren't warm ups.
Both mobility sessions

S battered but Core

S Max hangs, think I equalled season bests on most grips.
Intended to TRX but was distracted
Leg & Hip mobility, intended to do shoulder but another distraction

Lacking the motivation to do the dirty hard work at the moment, although I'll still want the results come Spring of course. Being too tempted by days out and I don't really think I trust my shoulder to subject it to too much work, should really put more time into rehabbing it, have to be more disciplined then I am being.

[tomtom]

3 new 7A's at Plantation (as in ones you've never done before) - as well as Heroes/Heroine last week... I'd say you were climbing well Nai...

[Dolly]

M Surprsingly good core/shoulder/hip session at gym
T Gardoms. Surprised myself by getting to the crag. 3pretty good goes on Kidneystone with Shark but probably not fully recovered from last weeks bug
W A rest day surprisingly
T Another surprise by getting to the crag again with Nai. Had both hands properly on the top of kidneystone twice. Just couldn’t manage to finish it and still can’t really work out why. I properly tried, lost all my skin, battered my shin and ankle, gave everything. Next fucking time
F Broken with very sore tips (possibly not surprisingly). Managed Cripmd antagonist shoulder and forearm workout in the evening
S Great kettlebell and core session at gym. Possibly overdid it, not surprisingly
S Shed power. My new setting is going to be hard but will definitely get me stronger

[cheque]

Power Club

Power Club

Mon - overhead...

Every week I wonder why you preface your posts with an extra “Power Club” title Nibs. This week you’ve outdone yourself with two!

[Nibile]

Every week I wonder why you preface your posts with an extra “Power Club” title Nibs. This week you’ve outdone yourself with two!

This week was just a copy/paste mishap.
In general it's because I log my training day by day on a notes app on my iPad and then just copy the whole thing.
I also find the post more polite with the title.

[Coops_13]

83.1kg -> 83.2 kg (down then back up due to copious amounts of Belgian beer)

M: Barcelona

T: Arch. Rushed warm-up as late. Max hangs, 6 sets up to +20kg, stopped as I tweaked finger. Tried campus partials (ladder but drop down after each move to keep low for knee) but hurt finger. One-legged climbing on the 50, felt like I was moving well! Weighted pull-ups, tried the Crimpd 5X5 for the first time which was pretty tough! Started with +38kg but dropped to +32kg after first set. Finished with front lever pulls to failure X2.

W: Some light antagonist excercises at home

T: Arch. Better warm-up, think I've found a good circuit I can do without the knee. Skipped max hangs as my finger was still tweaky. Campus partials, 1-4, 4-7, 1-5, 5-7 on big. 1-4, 4-almost7 on mid, 1-3-5-7 on small X3 - very sore on pulp! Then a good 45 mins on 50 board using the new stokt app. Managed to climb someone's 6B+ problem one-footed which was good. Weighted pull-ups +32kg X5 X5 sets. Dropped to +28kg for last two sets. Front lever pulls to failure X3 to finish

F - M: Mechelen, Belgium. Drinking way too much beer...

[Yossarian]

M: Wall. Not terribly structured playing on new set. Injured thumb on badly executed mantle - audible crunch. A great start to the week.
T: 11km trail run - fun and largely pain-free. Repeaters in the evening.
W: Wall. Nursing fucked thumb and generally feeling tired and achy.
T: Walked a few miles around London with 4-year-old.
F:
S: Wall. Slightly lacklustre session.
S: 12km run - longest I’ve ever done I think (I’ve generally had a hate/hate relationship with running). Repeaters, then tried out max hangs with newly-attached pulley. Managed down to -24kg which I was pretty pleased about as I’m currently quite porky. Like GME though there’s obviously a lot of work to do to get nearer 100%.
Weight: 92.4 - 91.3kg

A couple of weeks focusing more on enjoying problems at the wall rather than training has generally been less fun and involved more sitting around looking at Instagram. So reverting to more board and campus, and cherry picking the best looking new probloems for the end of sessions. V happy with the home max hangs setup. And (after a few weeks of eating too much) I seem to have reacquainted myself with correct portion size vs losing weight.

[lagerstarfish]

M - started feeling unwell in the afternoon
Tu - Th stomach cramps shits, headache, nausea
F - still not well, but carried foam and camera up the the Plantation to socialise - enjoyed touching rock
Sa - Mini Works with mini-me - easy pottering and a few 6s
Su - Works - easy pottering and then chatting shit with Grimer whilst falling off the Motherboard 1000 - lost a filet of skin from one finger. Couldn't finish evening meal due to feeling sick again - this may be a delayed shock reaction to seeing Jasper at the Works.

[tomtom]

F - still not well, but carried foam and camera up the the Plantation to socialise - enjoyed touching rock

You've still got your hustle Lagers... watching you trying to straight up *no heels* born slappy was good - and beta spraying on Zippys for the taller gent was invaluable.

[lagerstarfish]

You've still got your hustle Lagers... watching you trying to straight up *no heels* born slappy was good -

this will go; and not too slappy

I need to work out how to make it look like I'm not trying really hard - baggy clothing and Botox will help

[tomtom]

You've still got your hustle Lagers... watching you trying to straight up *no heels* born slappy was good -

this will go; and not too slappy

I need to work out how to make it look like I'm not trying really hard - baggy clothing and Botox will help

Synchronised swimmers smile

[highrepute]

Couple of weeks behind 

Tue 8th Voyager III - aim of this session was to work the crux move. warmed up on fingerboard at home. carried 4 pads in so I'd have something to step off, 3 is manageable 4 is grim. David Mason and Mina arrived as I did which turned out to be good for psyche. Can see why Mason is a coach, very supportive, helpful and attentive to climb with. Billy Ridal also turned up a little later. they we're both at a similar stage in the process as me so it was great to work it with them. spent most of the session pulling on off pads and trying the crux slap out right, this still involves doing the cross over move as you can't pull in that position. didn't do the move but some micro beta gained about the position of the LH - feels like I'm getting closer and it's doable. Had one go pushed through the crux and climbed to the end where I fell off the jugs, mostly because I was over excited. I'm pretty sure I'd not fall off there on redpoint but something to learn from. Extremely psyched after this session. moves all done, skin toughening up, it's a case of trying from the bottom now I think. keep getting pangs of excitement I'm so psyched thinking about it! away for two weeks now though, hopefully the rest makes me stronger.

Sun 13th - Holiday - Climb on the boulder and cave at Prussia Cove. Great session. I believe all of this is undocumented. It's not worth travelling for but nice if you are in the area. The boulder has some nice easy stuff. I contrived a tricky lip traverse at about 7a. The cave feels like it has some good potential but is a bit loose higher up. Did a easy one on the entrance and a nice traverse of the cave at around 7a+.



Week off while on Holiday.

Good week. Progress on Voyager and some worthwhile bouldering by the Holiday Cottage. Followed by excellent rest week.

[tomtom]

Great post. Good psyche re Vogager