[spidermonkey09]

Off out there next weekend; I have an old definitive guide from 2008 and access to the Vampire Topo Rockfax, neither of which include La Baleine which i gather is excellent.

Any and all beta appreciated on good sectors and best routes from 7a- 8a as I'm currently completely clueless! Anticipate mostly onsighting but would be good to try one or two harder things. Cheers!

[Stabbsy]

I've also got the 2008 guide, but when I bought it you got a separate top for La Baleen. I could try and scan it if I get a few mins later this week. In terms of routes, I didn't do many bad ones. The 6's and 7's I did at La Baleine were all great. Of the 7's, Top Model was the one I remember. My mate did Un Gusto de Rodellar (7b+) which looked superb.

Of the main sectors, the one with Voleur de Pesanteur and La Levrotte is great for onsighting. La Levrotte and the 2 either side, plus the F7b right again were all superb. Didn't try Voleur... but I imagine it would be tough if the sun was out. The area around Face Ouest is quite useful if the wind is blowing, as it's a bit more sheltered. I thought Du miel entre tes seins (7b+) was excellent, but tough. Also liked Andalouse, Moby Dick (7c) would be pretty onsightable I think and the 7a+ just left is great.

I had a couple of good days at Venasque if you wanted to try somewhere a bit different.

[jwi]

The supplement with La Baleine can be downloaded here https://www.aptitudes-escalade.com/app/download/5795386267/ST+LEGER+ADDITIF+2013.pdf You can also get it for free if you show your 2008 guidebook, at least that was how it used to work. (Show it in the farm that sells the guidebook at the entrance of the gorge)

Sector Andalouse and to the left is good. Andalouse itself is really good, but 8a is a bit of a joke I think. Moby Dick as mentioned, but Arqué pied tendre (7b+) is the must do route. La Port des Champs-Elysées (7a+) likewise.

With global warming and whatnot, I've heard that the North Face is dry atm. Crazy and scary [that it is dry], but when dry it has some of the best 7s in the gorge. Les Clowns (7c) is onsight friendly and one of the best of its grade I've done. Les sumos sont parmi nous is also great, even if the bolting isn't. Black Mamba (8a) is also quite fun and much easier than you'd think. The three side by side routes through the roof to the right: Les Rifougneurs (7c), Roland Culet (7b+) and Madam Cowboy (7b+) are all  highly recommended.

I haven't climbed a bad route at the Whale, but names etc escape in atm.

[Duncan campbell]

Le linceul de Penelope is a mega 7b onsight thing. Though you’ll absolutely walk up that. I didn’t climb much stuff harder than that as I was even less good then than I am now.

[spidermonkey09]

Thanks all! That gives me a bit to get started with. Printed out the topo, Baleine looks incredible. Les Clowns also ooks amazing, would be very keen to get on that.

[T_B]

With global warming and whatnot, I've heard that the North Face is dry atm. Crazy and scary [that it is dry], but when dry it has some of the best 7s in the gorge. Les Clowns (7c) is onsight friendly and one of the best of its grade I've done. Les sumos sont parmi nous is also great, even if the bolting isn't. Black Mamba (8a) is also quite fun and much easier than you'd think. The three side by side routes through the roof to the right: Les Rifougneurs (7c), Roland Culet (7b+) and Madam Cowboy (7b+) are all  highly recommended.

That's interesting that you rate the north wall. I went in summer against the advice of a friend (who said it was shit) and indeed I thought the rock quality on the right side was not dissimilar to the Peak District! I'm guessing the harder routes are good, but I thought those 7b+s were very average/loose/badly bolted in places?

[jwi]

The routes on the left side? Those are not good. Those I've mentioned are good and on good rock.

[Ru]

The routes on the left side? Those are not good. Those I've mentioned are good and on good rock.

I did an 8a on the left side called Quand le Blues l'Emporte sur la Raison that starts in that poor-looking flinty rock. Doesn't look much but it climbs really well on nice holds.

[jwi]

The routes on the left side? Those are not good. Those I've mentioned are good and on good rock.

I did an 8a on the left side called Quand le Blues l'Emporte sur la Raison that starts in that poor-looking flinty rock. Doesn't look much but it climbs really well on nice holds.

I agree, that's an OK route, but not fantastic, no?

[Ged]

The main routes on the north face are superb.  Around the ones that JWI mentioned.  The 7c+ (Les SUmos I think) in particular is exceptional.  unless you think 30 metre tufa fests are shit.  In which case don't go. 

On a side note, JWI, when did you do Black Mamba? I tried it in June 2016, thought I had it in the bag, and pulled a big sloper off the top bulge.  That's right, pulled off a sloper.  I was too nackered to try and figure out a new method, but it seemed like it may have got harder.  If still doable, highly recomend it.

Moby Dick is very soft at 7c.  And good.

Le Mythomane and the 7b's to the right are very good, and all quite tough I thought.

What a great venue.  I'm envious.

[jwi]

On a side note, JWI, when did you do Black Mamba? I tried it in June 2016...

In 2014 according to my notes.

I thought Moby Dick was 7b+? But I would like it to be 7c, because then it would have the same grade as Esméralda which would be hilarious.

[Ged]

That would make sense for moby dick. I was going off the naughty guidebook.

Any idea if black mamba is still 8a? I did feel quite guilty, but was also quite hungover so didn't care too much.

Incidentally, I also left a bunch of quick draws at the bottom of one of the routes, and a bunch of the nicer ones were nicked overnight. Just beware.

[jwi]

Any idea if black mamba is still 8a? I did feel quite guilty, but was also quite hungover so didn't care too much.

I'm pretty sure it's still considered 8a.

[spidermonkey09]

The main routes on the north face are superb.  Around the ones that JWI mentioned.  The 7c+ (Les SUmos I think) in particular is exceptional.  unless you think 30 metre tufa fests are shit.  In which case don't go. 

On a side note, JWI, when did you do Black Mamba? I tried it in June 2016, thought I had it in the bag, and pulled a big sloper off the top bulge.  That's right, pulled off a sloper.  I was too nackered to try and figure out a new method, but it seemed like it may have got harder.  If still doable, highly recomend it.

Moby Dick is very soft at 7c.  And good.

Le Mythomane and the 7b's to the right are very good, and all quite tough I thought.

What a great venue.  I'm envious.

Thanks for that; really handy! Black Mamba seems to have been done several times in 2018 according to 8a.nu and it seems like 8a is still about right.

(https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchFromSimple=1&SearchType=ASCENTS&AscentType=0&CragName=St+L%u00e9ger&AscentName=Black+mamba&AscentStyle=)

[TobyD]

Mythomane is brilliant. Agree with most other suggestions above. Including that 8a for Al Andalouse is taking the piss. It is brilliant though.

Au pieds nus au Tete du Kojak is very entertaining if you want something errr different!

Also nearby good (soft) 8as at Baume Rausse.

[JohnM]

Do you mean you think Al Andalouse is tough for 8a? I found it pretty tough for 8a. I couldn't believe it was only meant to be 7c to the halfway break. Amazing headwall though!