He did these in 10 days 2 years ago:- Fatman, ~8B- The Traphouse, ~8B+- Gecko assis, ~8B+- Jour de chasse, ~8C- The Big island, ~8C
This website (https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-boulder-problems) has got him down as having done The Big Island and an 8C in Japan. According to that list there's no shortage of 8Cs in Japan (19) and there's an 8C+ there.
According to that site 8C, or above, was climbed 70 times in 2018! I've never really thought about what that number should be, but it's higher than I would have guessed. Also, in total, 8C or above has been climbed 409 times.
approximately as hard as onsighting 8a for the average male climber
'a bit difficult' in Japanese often means 'completely impossible, why we are having this coversation?'.
Quote from: 36chambers on March 11, 2019, 11:14:22 amAccording to that site 8C, or above, was climbed 70 times in 2018! I've never really thought about what that number should be, but it's higher than I would have guessed. Also, in total, 8C or above has been climbed 409 times. Clearly significantly easier than doing 9a+ or onsighting 8c, which to me indicates that the gradespans on hard boulder grades are too narrow. Contrary to what many of the strongest claim.
You'd have to normalise the data before you can make any meaningful comparisons though
Is Fatman not defunct nowadays?
Quote from: 36chambers on March 11, 2019, 03:51:58 pmYou'd have to normalise the data before you can make any meaningful comparisons though This is what I thought when I saw the comparison; seems there's more people operating at the top of bouldering than there is at the top of sport climbing.
Name Grade Climber 1: Disbelief 9b Adam Ondra 2: Eagle 4 9b Adam Ondra 3: High Line 9a+/b Adam Ondra 4: Czech Trip 9a+ Adam Ondra 5: La Castagne 9a+ Adam Ondra 6: Meiose 9a+ Adam Ondra 7: Sacrifice 9a+ Adam Ondra 8: Stone Butterfly 9a+ Adam Ondra 9: Super Crackinette 9a+ Adam Ondra10: Underground > Pure dreaming 9a+ Adam Ondra11: Energia Cosmica 9a+ Alessandro Zeni12: Perfecto Mundo 9b+ Alexander Megos13: La Cène du Lézard 9a+ Cédric Lachat14: La Capella 9b Daniel Woods15: First Ley 9a+ Daniel Woods16: Modified 9a+ David Firnenburg17: La Rambla 9a+ Gerard Rull18: Super Crackinette 9a+ Gérôme Pouvreau19: Artaburu 9a+/b Iker Pou20: Neanderthal 9b Jakob Schubert21: Stoking the fire 9b Jakob Schubert22: El bon combat 9a+/b Jakob Schubert23: Catxasa 9a+ Jakob Schubert24: Catxasa 9a+ Jakub Konecny25: Es Pontas 9a+ Jan Hojer26: Dugi Rat 9a+ Jernej Kruder27: Life of Villains 9a+ Joe Kinder28: La Rambla 9a+ Jon Cardwell29: Jumbo love 9b Jonathan Siegrist30: Panorama 9a+ Jorge Diaz Rullo31: Sashidananda 9a+ Loïc Zehani32: Fight or Flight 9b Matty Hong33: Life of Villains 9a+ Matty Hong34: Ali Hulk (extension total) 9a+ Piotr Schab35: Ali Hulk (extension) 9a+ Piotr Schab36: Biographie/Realization 9a+ Piotr Schab37: Catxasa 9a+ Piotr Schab38: No Pain No Gain 9a+ Piotr Schab39: La Barrière 9b Pirmin Bertle40: Soul Mate 9b Sachi Amma41: Rise 9a+ Sachi Amma42: Les yeux plus gros que l'antre 9a+/b Sébastien Bouin43: La Côte d'Usure 9a+ Sébastien Bouin44: First Ley 9a+ Shawn Raboutou45: Biographie/Realization 9a+ Stefano Carnati46: Perfecto Mundo 9b+ Stefano Ghisolfi47: La Capella 9b Stefano Ghisolfi48: La Rambla 9a+ Tomas Ravanal49: Jaws II 9a+ Tristan Chen
Had a look at this today, obviously looks very hard, but the holds are quite positive. I reckon it’s one of the less conditions dependant hard problems I’ve seen. I can see why a strong fingered light person would get on well with it. It also looks a lot better in the flesh than on video.