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9A in Font by Charles Albert (Read 41783 times)

Duncan campbell

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#100 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 27, 2019, 10:27:29 pm
Is it that big of a chink in Nalle’s armour?? We all have weaknesses/nemesis routes problems that we find tricky.

The guy has done loads that I know of and I’m not fully up on bouldering ascents as it’s not where my main button climbing lies.

Maybe it’s just a plus for Charles maybe being right or close to right on the grade? Nalle posted about on hipstergram so presumably he has some sort of belief in it being hard/9A?  :shrug:

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#101 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 28, 2019, 07:22:29 am
Also this isn’t a competition between Charles and Nalle. Just because someone can climb maybe 9A without hype it doesn’t mean someone else can’t climb maybe 9A with lots of hype. I would say it still falls into the significant first ascent categories. Live and let live.

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#102 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 28, 2019, 08:04:19 am
Ooh...

(Never miss an opportunity to post this)

jwi

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#103 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 28, 2019, 08:17:21 am
Second place is first loser

SA Chris

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#104 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 28, 2019, 01:43:18 pm
Bet he has sex without a condom too.  :sick:

Prob name means "No Bareback" doesn't it?

jwi

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#105 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 29, 2019, 11:24:42 am
“Capote anglaise” (literary “English Hood”) is a dated euphemism for a condom. Kpote was formed by shortening as usual since french words are too long; I don't know how common Kpote is, as I'm very much not down with the kids.

cheque

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#106 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 29, 2019, 11:44:51 am
“Capote anglaise” (literary “English Hood”) is a dated euphemism for a condom.

As opposed to a "French Letter".



jwi

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#109 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 09, 2019, 10:55:31 pm
Very cool! Hopefully he will be back to Burden of Dreams as well. Here's a clip where he does it from the “high start” ;) https://www.instagram.com/p/BnhfWrPj7zj/

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#110 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 10, 2019, 08:21:32 am
I see that Kameyama opted for a heel rather than a toe for the right foot on the hard move.

jwi

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#111 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 10, 2019, 11:57:22 am
Quote from: Ryohei Kameyama's insta, lightly edited for clarity
I feel that "Burden of Dreams" is a bit more difficult than this problem. I think this boulder [No Kpote] is v16/17, but I haven't climb many hard boulders like v15 or v16. So I can't compare with them. Perhaps my grading isn't correct. I want to try other hard boulders!


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#112 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 10, 2019, 06:38:49 pm
Mad isn't it, some guy I've never even heard of comes along and does potentially one of the hardest bits of rock climbing in the world, ever. Love this sport.

Unless I'm and idiot and he's a well known crusher?

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#113 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 10, 2019, 07:31:44 pm
Well if it’s anything to go on he only has 900 Instagram followers and I think he got about 700 of them today!

jwi

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#114 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 10, 2019, 07:56:57 pm
Mad isn't it, some guy I've never even heard of comes along and does potentially one of the hardest bits of rock climbing in the world, ever. Love this sport.

Unless I'm and idiot and he's a well known crusher?
He did a bunch of 8b - 8c (including Big Island) in quick time two years ago and the locals were quite impressed.


Ged

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#115 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 10, 2019, 08:32:35 pm
Is he relatively unknown apart from that?

I remember a time when the standard thing to say was "oh some Spanish wad would come and crush that". Now it seems to be "oh some Japanese wad would come and crush that"

Doylo

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#116 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 10, 2019, 08:43:07 pm
Took him 4 sessions. Surely if anyone can climb a 9A in that time it just isn’t 9A

jwi

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#117 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 10, 2019, 08:49:48 pm
Took him 4 sessions. Surely if anyone can climb a 9A in that time it just isn’t 9A

I quite agree. Someone who can do 9A in less than 5 sessions should be able to flash an 8C every now and then or do at least 9A+ with siege tactics.

Maybe Mr. Kameyama can, but he's mightily silent about it in that case.

I rechecked the pics and videos, apart from using the heel instead of the toe he also takes an intermediate before spanning out to the gaston crimp. Likely just a much better sequence than Albert's

mr chaz

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#118 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 09:32:14 am
shoes innit

andy popp

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#119 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 09:39:57 am
"I feel that "Burden of Dreams" is a bit more difficult than this problem."

8a.nu reports that he took 8 sessions to link from the second move to the top (though the starting position in the Insta video above is surely two hand moves and a load of foot shenanigans in?) and that he hasn't done the first move. Sounds a but more than a "bit more" difficult.

duncan

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#120 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 10:12:27 am
'a bit difficult' in Japanese often means 'completely impossible, why we are having this coversation?'.

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#121 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 10:20:55 am
A conversation about the hypothetical relative difficulty of the only two 9A boulder problems, on a bouldering forum?

Will Hunt

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#122 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 10:22:38 am
His 8a scorecard lists The Big Island and some other 8C (Jour de Chasse) which seems to have comments on it that it's soft or maybe chipped? This website (https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-boulder-problems) has got him down as having done The Big Island and an 8C in Japan. According to that list there's no shortage of 8Cs in Japan (19) and there's an 8C+ there.

So he's done 2 8Cs, nothing at 8C+, and he's knocked off this problem in 5 sessions using different beta to the FA. Seems clear that a downgrade is in order. Although apparently the Japanese have a totally different attitude to training. Maybe he lives at the wall, is a complete monster, and only goes outside every now and again...

dunnyg

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#123 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 10:25:34 am
Not everyone has to go out and downgrade everything they climb...

ghisino

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#124 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 10:33:24 am
it seems he said it's "8C+/9A"

 

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