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9A in Font by Charles Albert (Read 41797 times)

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#75 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 24, 2019, 09:02:15 am
It's interesting, there's exactly the same idyom in Italian.
"To eat something in just one bite (or mouthful)".
It's perfect because in Italian it keeps the same reference to quantity, rather than time.

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#76 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 24, 2019, 10:56:08 pm
Name is gross though, he could have chosen something classier.

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#77 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 25, 2019, 09:19:34 am
Name is gross though, he could have chosen something classier.

 :agree: If you do a new route or problem this significant you're obliged to give it a decent name.

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#78 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 25, 2019, 10:03:56 am
So far I've never heard anyone refer to the problem by the name given to it by Albert...

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#79 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 25, 2019, 10:24:46 am
I'm bit surprised they has not been more debate on the 9A grade. CA logic seems to be its harder/taken more sessions than anything else. 

With BoD NH had repeated seasons trying the problem and then when the BoD season finished he went and tried other hard problems in similar style and boshed them off double quick.

CA obviously one of the best boulders out there at the moment, but just cos he took twenty sessions to climb a problem doesn't automatically make it 9A.

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#80 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 25, 2019, 10:31:44 am
That’s the test of time. Being in font it’s bound to see some attention and likely be downgraded, or not and remain unrepeated for years. Anything else would be speculation about someone’s ability and judgement

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#81 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 25, 2019, 10:33:12 am
So far I've never heard anyone refer to the problem by the name given to it by Albert...

What’s it’s* name again?

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#82 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 25, 2019, 11:21:38 am
So far I've never heard anyone refer to the problem by the name given to it by Albert...

What’s it’s* name again?

What, that left sitstart to Gaia in the Roche Acléaude cave?

Re: The grade. Time to apply the old JB-Tribout test again: Anyone capable of doing 9A in less than an infinite number of tries should do 8C in a day and flash 8B. But as this 9A is found in the centre of the world and Hukkataival's 9A is found in the middle of nowhere there is no price for guessing which one will have a consensus grade first...

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#83 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 25, 2019, 09:44:10 pm
Although Daniel Woods is at least planning on getting back on Burden in April.

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#84 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 08:14:32 am
as this 9A is found in the centre of the world and Hukkataival's 9A is found in the middle of nowhere there is no price for guessing which one will have a consensus grade first...

There's a significant factor of reputation and perception at play here as well.

- Burden of Dreams took arguably the best boulderer in the world, operating in his perfect style, dozens of sessions over multiple seasons of effort, with accompanying social media publication and a full 30 minute film of the process.
- No Kpote Only took a local barefoot oddball 20 sessions.

Irrespective of how hard the two problems actually are (and the nebulous personal nature of grades is another topic), I think that is the main issue which is likely to lead to a) more attention, and b) a probably downgrade. However, until it does see attention and a consensus then surely you just have to take everything with a pinch of salt. Maybe No Kpote Only is 9A and Burden of Dreams is 9B? Who knows.

On an entirely separate subject, the problems have now been added to Bleau Info, providing an intriguing back-story to the boulder. Sorry if everyone knows about this already but for those who don't, the boulder previously had walls built around it as a bivouac and at some point this all "fell" down. Various problems were then very quickly added around 2015, and then in 2017 someone damaged a few of the holds.

https://bleau.info/rocherbrule/265201.html

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#85 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 03:07:37 pm

There's a significant factor of reputation and perception at play here as well.

- Burden of Dreams took arguably the best boulderer in the world, operating in his perfect style, dozens of sessions over multiple seasons of effort


Hmm. It took Nalle multiple seasons of effort when failing on his original sequence. Then he changed his sequence and did it fairly fast. Time spent doesn't mean everything, though it does mean something.

Here's another story that doesn't mean everything, though it does mean something. I was in Font a couple of years ago with Polish Dave. Dawid did Delire Onirique, then Nalle and Jimmy Webb turned up to try the sitter which Charles had recently done, with Neil and film camera in tow. We pottered around trying the 8A to the left, then gave up and moved on. Nalle and Jimmy hadn't got going yet. Whilst I was trying something else round the corner, Dawid went for a wee and took a long time to reappear. He eventually rounded the corner looking a little awestruck. Apparently he had gone to peek at the wads on the 8C. They were struggling "like a sack of potatoes". Charles turned up, took off his shoes and cruised up the problem, first go. Neil couldn't get the camera ready fast enough, and missed his chance. Dawid was amazed how impressive Charles looked. I think he might have said "another level!" Like I said, it doesn't mean everything - perhaps Nalle and Jimmy just weren't feeling it that day. But when Charles talks about 8Cs feeling like warmups in comparison, this is what I think about.




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#86 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 03:21:15 pm

There's a significant factor of reputation and perception at play here as well.

- Burden of Dreams took arguably the best boulderer in the world, operating in his perfect style, dozens of sessions over multiple seasons of effort


Hmm. It took Nalle multiple seasons of effort when failing on his original sequence. Then he changed his sequence and did it fairly fast. Time spent doesn't mean everything, though it does mean something.


Pretty sure it still took him more than another season after 'finding' the new foot beta.
Still took him multiple seasons to do the first move.

I agree with your point re time not meaning everything. It's pretty easy, albeit not very fun, to spend a lot of time on something when you're arguably not good enough to do it. I think a lot of long sieges are like that.

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#87 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 03:29:40 pm
It's pretty easy, albeit not very fun, to spend a lot of time on something when you're arguably not good enough to do it. I think a lot of long sieges are like that.

Wise words.

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#88 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 03:43:39 pm
It's pretty easy, albeit not very fun, to spend a lot of time on something when you're arguably not good enough to do it. I think a lot of long sieges are like that.

Wise words.

Story of my life

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#89 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 05:24:22 pm
It's pretty easy, albeit not very fun, to spend a lot of time on something when you're arguably not good enough to do it. I think a lot of long sieges are like that.
Wise words.
Story of my life
Could be applied to a few relationships I've had... :D

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#90 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 08:14:29 pm
On the subject of his being next-level strong, Tim Palmer said he saw him on some 8B thing (Landman does it in Between The Trees) where you hold two shit holds and throw into a slot as your feet come off. It's kind of a hard dyno move of holds that are practically unholdable. Albert was there just hanging them and kicking his feet back and forth to warm up like it was nothing.

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#91 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 08:26:59 pm
Here's another story that doesn't mean everything, though it does mean something.

That is a fantastic story.

It's not my perception, but I do think it's one that many people might have (exhibit A, the post above questioning the grade; I've not seen anyone question BoD).

Anyone who doubts CA should watch this vid of him pissing up Monkey Wedding without pads.



On BoD, from a quick scroll through of the vid he works out the new beta in season 6, has the moves wired by the end of that season but eventually did it in season 7. And as others pointed out either way features the same first move.

I agree with your point re time not meaning everything. It's pretty easy, albeit not very fun, to spend a lot of time on something when you're arguably not good enough to do it. I think a lot of long sieges are like that.

Urgh, tell me about it.

Another awesome story

I'm liking this chap more and more. Nalle who?

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#92 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 10:05:18 pm
For more 'CA can climb hard stuff' see him climbing l'alchemiste in out of sight iii

from 6:30

I think I'm right in saying he uses the original sequence (which Nalle had written off post chipping.)

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#93 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 26, 2019, 10:56:35 pm
For more 'CA can climb hard stuff' see him climbing l'alchemiste in out of sight iii

I think I'm right in saying he uses the original sequence (which Nalle had written off post chipping.)

I was just about to post that video as it shows Charles and Jimmy doing the sit and stand, respectively, of the aforementioned Delire Onirique

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#94 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 27, 2019, 07:28:10 am
On the subject of his being next-level strong, Tim Palmer said he saw him on some 8B thing (Landman does it in Between The Trees) where you hold two shit holds and throw into a slot as your feet come off. It's kind of a hard dyno move of holds that are practically unholdable. Albert was there just hanging them and kicking his feet back and forth to warm up like it was nothing.

Délire Onirique was the problem. Sounds similar to Dawids experience seeing him on the sit to it.

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#95 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 27, 2019, 09:33:15 am

I think I'm right in saying he uses the original sequence (which Nalle had written off post chipping.)

For comparison, Marc and Nalle on l'Alchemist


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#96 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 27, 2019, 10:08:22 am
I had forgotten about this video.
That's quite a big chink in Nalle's otherwise shiny and immaculate armour.

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#97 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 27, 2019, 11:01:18 am
I guess one thing that we can't understand, because absolutely nobody else does it, is what difference it makes to climb barefoot. Personally I can't imagine the pain of standing on gratons, but if you can learn to bear it and harden your skin I can imagine there being big benefits on certain problems. The way he wraps his toes around stuff and bears down on it is basically the perfect version of what a downturned shoe is trying to emulate. Could you pull on small crimps if you'd put on a pair of tight sticky-rubber mitts? Sportiva are trying to flog No Edge shoes - CA really has no edge!

Maybe coupling this skill with next level strength is where the future of climbing lies?

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#98 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 27, 2019, 06:19:01 pm
Hope not, it’s gross.

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#99 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 27, 2019, 06:49:16 pm
Bet he has sex without a condom too.  :sick:

 

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