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9A in Font by Charles Albert (Read 16323 times)

teestub

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#50 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 06:40:42 pm

Never mind that, what's the deal with that moonboard replica in Grimper?

The Kilter board https://settercloset.com/pages/the-kilter-board like the Moon board but with nice holds. Some of them are also adjustable angle.

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#51 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 07:07:13 pm
what 36 linked is the sitstart to the 7c stand, which is supposed to be around 8a+ (going by the article in grimper)
So it's a 5 moves sequence into a 7c?
Yeah, the first three moves are supposed to add up to around 8a+, so really only two hard moves.

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#52 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 09:18:44 pm
Pete and Dan, I get what you mean as well.
I only feel that HIS reticence is fake.

Who are the 8C+/9A beasts whose reticence isn't fake?

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#53 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 09:48:52 pm
Thomas Willenberg? Klem Loskot?

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#54 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 09:49:34 pm
I don't mind 'That fucking pinch!' The thought crosses my mind most sessions!  :P

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#55 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 20, 2019, 07:59:49 am
Shame about the graffiti, but the rock and climbing look great. And hard!

So what's the disgruntled attitude about then, disbelief that he actually did it or disbelief that it's actually 9A?

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#56 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 20, 2019, 08:02:10 am
The no shoes thing is interesting isn't it. I always assumed it was a bit of a "look at me" thing but watching him climb, it's hard to imagine using the footholds in the way he does with shoes on.

I reckon a session on dartmoor granite would change his mind though

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#57 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 20, 2019, 09:26:17 am

So what's the disgruntled attitude about then, disbelief that he actually did it or disbelief that it's actually 9A?

Surely the latter as the ascent was witnessed.

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#58 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 20, 2019, 10:24:11 am
Isn't it mostly the fact it looks like something r-man would point Dolph at?? ;) In the lower half at least.

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#59 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 20, 2019, 12:49:58 pm
I don't know what that means 

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#60 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 20, 2019, 02:01:38 pm
The no shoes thing is interesting isn't it. I always assumed it was a bit of a "look at me" thing but watching him climb, it's hard to imagine using the footholds in the way he does with shoes on.

I reckon a session on dartmoor granite would change his mind though

TBF, I think font is likely the best venue anywhere for no-shoes shenanigans. Also, TBF, I think he's been to that sharp granite venue just north of Barcelona and climbed ~8s barefoot. Not in the same league as the Dartmoor granite though.

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#61 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 20, 2019, 09:18:58 pm
i'm hoping he'll get on this new thing

Crikey I'm not. As much as I've defended this new 9A, I'd much rather see Jimmy get up Big Island Assis!!

Grimper appear to agree "More likely, he will begin by trying to release the seated departure of The Big Island" That really is the big proj in Font/the world that needs doing imo

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#62 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 20, 2019, 09:25:49 pm
More footage of someone climbing the direct version (link stolen from 8a.nu). Looks like a brilliant problem to me


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#63 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 21, 2019, 09:28:45 am
More footage of someone climbing the direct version (link stolen from 8a.nu). Looks like a brilliant problem to me

Nice one, thanks for sharing. I agree, both stand and direct sit look brilliant. On the list for my visit in March!


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#65 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 21, 2019, 02:57:16 pm
Rough translation for the non-french? :please:

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#67 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 21, 2019, 03:14:58 pm
Rough translation for the non-french? :please:

December 13, 2018, without crash pad, without slippers, Charles Albert succeeded No Kpote Only , a block of almost unreal difficulty on the heights of Rocher Brûlé de Fontainebleau. After Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams , this passage is no other than the second 9A proposal in the history of rock climbing . Having put his fingers in the block during his previous stays in Fontainebleau, Giuliano Cameroni was kind enough to give us his impressions.

pied_main
Charles Albert's foot and hand sharing the same hold in No Kpote Only (9A). Photo: Lucien Martinez

For those who do not know him, Giuliano is 7 8C block, 23 8B +, 73 8B and 315 8A + and 8A. At 21, he has already given himself one of the most well-supplied notebooks of crosses on the planet. His strength ? It is his ability to adapt to the rock. He never says that a block is too hard and he has to go back to train; he seeks the means to pass, and he passes.

cameroni_bleau
Giuliano Cameroni in The Force of Destiny, a classic 8B + from Fontainebleau which he has only munched

Q hich were his feelings when Giuliano tried No Kpote Only (9A) ?   

Although he went there several times to accompany Charles and climb the other passages in the area, Giuliano has not tried very much. He quickly identified that the key to the block lay in the terrible hand-foot movement to fetch the right-hand shoulder arch. He tried the movement barefoot and in slippers. feet   naked, you have to scratch the right foot with the toes which forces you to move away from the wall. It is then very complicated to arrive at three fingers on the small ruler (Charles made the block by putting only two fingers on the catch). In slippers, the movement is more difficult to trigger but the center of gravity remains closer to the rock and the option to put three fingers on the ruler then seems realistic. Anyway, even if the movements are the same, the feelings barefoot and slippers remain very different.

Will he try again?

Not only Giuliano will try again, but it even makes it a priority! One or two projects to finish in Switzerland then direction Fontainebleau to measure No Kpote Only . Last time, he tried at the end of the trip in a state of relative fatigue; the sensations were nevertheless encouraging, hence the great motivation of the man!

What is his feeling about the difficulty of No Kpote Only ? 

The Swiss mutant may have put his fingers in the challenge, he can not decide without trying longer. He thinks the block is worth at least a solid 8C + and seemed harder than any 8C and 8C + he tried. Will it be enough to reach 9A? Impossible to say for the moment. Everything will depend on the diffi culty added by the first three "easier" movements that make it possible to reach the famous crux of the hand-foot.

What is the strength of Charles?

Giuliano knows him well for having climbed with him several times. According to his own words , he is a "climbing genius". He even adds that he tries to take inspiration from Charles' methods of progress: to try as many blocks as possible beyond his capacities in strong fingers, so that they are always mobilized to their extreme limit.

Who is Charles Albert? What does a day of linking a block of this level look like? Why did he propose 9A? Why does the bloc have a controversial past? All this and many other things are to be discovered alongside illustrations in

jwi

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#68 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 21, 2019, 03:39:01 pm
Damn! Google translate is getting good! Apart from some of the contextual uses of croix, reglette, prise and passage the translation is basically lexically correct.

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#69 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 21, 2019, 04:50:25 pm
Damn! Google translate is getting good! Apart from some of the contextual uses of croix, reglette, prise and passage the translation is basically lexically correct.

Giuliano Cameroni in The Force of Destiny, a classic 8B + from Fontainebleau which he has only munched

 :???:

What would you translate that as JWi? I genuinely can't work it out!

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#70 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 21, 2019, 05:20:11 pm
hahaha! bouchée = small tasty snack (the dictionary suggest mouthful, but it has taken more and more the meaning of amuse-bouche). A human could translate this as

Giuliano Cameroni climbs La Force du Destin, a classic 8B+ in Fontainebleau as a small appetiser

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#71 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 23, 2019, 12:35:02 pm
Rough translation for the non-french? :please:

I wish I had such an impressive notebook of crosses  :lol:

December 13, 2018, without crash pad, without slippers, Charles Albert succeeded No Kpote Only , a block of almost unreal difficulty on the heights of Rocher Brûlé de Fontainebleau. After Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams , this passage is no other than the second 9A proposal in the history of rock climbing . Having put his fingers in the block during his previous stays in Fontainebleau, Giuliano Cameroni was kind enough to give us his impressions.

pied_main
Charles Albert's foot and hand sharing the same hold in No Kpote Only (9A). Photo: Lucien Martinez

For those who do not know him, Giuliano is 7 8C block, 23 8B +, 73 8B and 315 8A + and 8A. At 21, he has already given himself one of the most well-supplied notebooks of crosses on the planet. His strength ? It is his ability to adapt to the rock. He never says that a block is too hard and he has to go back to train; he seeks the means to pass, and he passes.

cameroni_bleau
Giuliano Cameroni in The Force of Destiny, a classic 8B + from Fontainebleau which he has only munched

Q hich were his feelings when Giuliano tried No Kpote Only (9A) ?   

Although he went there several times to accompany Charles and climb the other passages in the area, Giuliano has not tried very much. He quickly identified that the key to the block lay in the terrible hand-foot movement to fetch the right-hand shoulder arch. He tried the movement barefoot and in slippers. feet   naked, you have to scratch the right foot with the toes which forces you to move away from the wall. It is then very complicated to arrive at three fingers on the small ruler (Charles made the block by putting only two fingers on the catch). In slippers, the movement is more difficult to trigger but the center of gravity remains closer to the rock and the option to put three fingers on the ruler then seems realistic. Anyway, even if the movements are the same, the feelings barefoot and slippers remain very different.

Will he try again?

Not only Giuliano will try again, but it even makes it a priority! One or two projects to finish in Switzerland then direction Fontainebleau to measure No Kpote Only . Last time, he tried at the end of the trip in a state of relative fatigue; the sensations were nevertheless encouraging, hence the great motivation of the man!

What is his feeling about the difficulty of No Kpote Only ? 

The Swiss mutant may have put his fingers in the challenge, he can not decide without trying longer. He thinks the block is worth at least a solid 8C + and seemed harder than any 8C and 8C + he tried. Will it be enough to reach 9A? Impossible to say for the moment. Everything will depend on the diffi culty added by the first three "easier" movements that make it possible to reach the famous crux of the hand-foot.

What is the strength of Charles?

Giuliano knows him well for having climbed with him several times. According to his own words , he is a "climbing genius". He even adds that he tries to take inspiration from Charles' methods of progress: to try as many blocks as possible beyond his capacities in strong fingers, so that they are always mobilized to their extreme limit.

Who is Charles Albert? What does a day of linking a block of this level look like? Why did he propose 9A? Why does the bloc have a controversial past? All this and many other things are to be discovered alongside illustrations in

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#72 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 23, 2019, 01:31:33 pm
hahaha! bouchée = small tasty snack (the dictionary suggest mouthful, but it has taken more and more the meaning of amuse-bouche). A human could translate this as

Giuliano Cameroni climbs La Force du Destin, a classic 8B+ in Fontainebleau as a small appetiser

When used a as verb, i.e. " ne faire qu'une bouchee" is not more along the lines of "to make short work of"? So the english translation would be more along the lines of:

Giuliano Cameroni making short work of La Force du Destin, a classic 8B+ in Fontainebleau.


jwi

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#73 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 23, 2019, 03:04:48 pm
Yes that is the meaning. It is always hard to strike the balance between being idiomatically correct or to get a flavour of the original. Since the question (in my mind) was why the machine produces an erroneous translation, I found it better to give a translation as close to the original syntax as possible.

galpinos

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#74 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 23, 2019, 03:41:33 pm
Yes that is the meaning. It is always hard to strike the balance between being idiomatically correct or to get a flavour of the original. Since the question (in my mind) was why the machine produces an erroneous translation, I found it better to give a translation as close to the original syntax as possible.

My french is quite rusty but it's a phrase that has stuck. I agree wholeheartedly with the balance of idiom and a more direct translation, most of m,y more recent translation has been along the technical engineering language within engineering and I've made some right balls ups deviating too far from the original and distorting the actual meaning.