Never mind that, what's the deal with that moonboard replica in Grimper?
Quote from: jwi on January 18, 2019, 04:50:01 pmwhat 36 linked is the sitstart to the 7c stand, which is supposed to be around 8a+ (going by the article in grimper)So it's a 5 moves sequence into a 7c?
what 36 linked is the sitstart to the 7c stand, which is supposed to be around 8a+ (going by the article in grimper)
Pete and Dan, I get what you mean as well.I only feel that HIS reticence is fake.
So what's the disgruntled attitude about then, disbelief that he actually did it or disbelief that it's actually 9A?
The no shoes thing is interesting isn't it. I always assumed it was a bit of a "look at me" thing but watching him climb, it's hard to imagine using the footholds in the way he does with shoes on.I reckon a session on dartmoor granite would change his mind though
Quote from: finbarrr on January 19, 2019, 02:01:58 pm i'm hoping he'll get on this new thingCrikey I'm not. As much as I've defended this new 9A, I'd much rather see Jimmy get up Big Island Assis!!
i'm hoping he'll get on this new thing
More footage of someone climbing the direct version (link stolen from 8a.nu). Looks like a brilliant problem to me
Rough translation for the non-french?
Damn! Google translate is getting good! Apart from some of the contextual uses of croix, reglette, prise and passage the translation is basically lexically correct.
Giuliano Cameroni in The Force of Destiny, a classic 8B + from Fontainebleau which he has only munched
Quote from: hansmaro on January 21, 2019, 02:57:16 pmRough translation for the non-french? I wish I had such an impressive notebook of crosses December 13, 2018, without crash pad, without slippers, Charles Albert succeeded No Kpote Only , a block of almost unreal difficulty on the heights of Rocher Brûlé de Fontainebleau. After Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams , this passage is no other than the second 9A proposal in the history of rock climbing . Having put his fingers in the block during his previous stays in Fontainebleau, Giuliano Cameroni was kind enough to give us his impressions.pied_mainCharles Albert's foot and hand sharing the same hold in No Kpote Only (9A). Photo: Lucien MartinezFor those who do not know him, Giuliano is 7 8C block, 23 8B +, 73 8B and 315 8A + and 8A. At 21, he has already given himself one of the most well-supplied notebooks of crosses on the planet. His strength ? It is his ability to adapt to the rock. He never says that a block is too hard and he has to go back to train; he seeks the means to pass, and he passes.cameroni_bleauGiuliano Cameroni in The Force of Destiny, a classic 8B + from Fontainebleau which he has only munchedQ hich were his feelings when Giuliano tried No Kpote Only (9A) ? Although he went there several times to accompany Charles and climb the other passages in the area, Giuliano has not tried very much. He quickly identified that the key to the block lay in the terrible hand-foot movement to fetch the right-hand shoulder arch. He tried the movement barefoot and in slippers. feet naked, you have to scratch the right foot with the toes which forces you to move away from the wall. It is then very complicated to arrive at three fingers on the small ruler (Charles made the block by putting only two fingers on the catch). In slippers, the movement is more difficult to trigger but the center of gravity remains closer to the rock and the option to put three fingers on the ruler then seems realistic. Anyway, even if the movements are the same, the feelings barefoot and slippers remain very different. Will he try again? Not only Giuliano will try again, but it even makes it a priority! One or two projects to finish in Switzerland then direction Fontainebleau to measure No Kpote Only . Last time, he tried at the end of the trip in a state of relative fatigue; the sensations were nevertheless encouraging, hence the great motivation of the man! What is his feeling about the difficulty of No Kpote Only ? The Swiss mutant may have put his fingers in the challenge, he can not decide without trying longer. He thinks the block is worth at least a solid 8C + and seemed harder than any 8C and 8C + he tried. Will it be enough to reach 9A? Impossible to say for the moment. Everything will depend on the diffi culty added by the first three "easier" movements that make it possible to reach the famous crux of the hand-foot. What is the strength of Charles? Giuliano knows him well for having climbed with him several times. According to his own words , he is a "climbing genius". He even adds that he tries to take inspiration from Charles' methods of progress: to try as many blocks as possible beyond his capacities in strong fingers, so that they are always mobilized to their extreme limit. Who is Charles Albert? What does a day of linking a block of this level look like? Why did he propose 9A? Why does the bloc have a controversial past? All this and many other things are to be discovered alongside illustrations in
hahaha! bouchée = small tasty snack (the dictionary suggest mouthful, but it has taken more and more the meaning of amuse-bouche). A human could translate this as Giuliano Cameroni climbs La Force du Destin, a classic 8B+ in Fontainebleau as a small appetiser
Yes that is the meaning. It is always hard to strike the balance between being idiomatically correct or to get a flavour of the original. Since the question (in my mind) was why the machine produces an erroneous translation, I found it better to give a translation as close to the original syntax as possible.
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