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9A in Font by Charles Albert (Read 16320 times)

Dan Cheetham

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#25 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 03:32:44 pm
Wtf are you guys on about, makes me wonder if I watched the same video. What I saw was an incredible set of moves executed with amazing style on some seriously small holds. Probably the most inspired I’ve been by watching a boulder problem in years and not a set of dice being rolled in sight. Thank f@ck.

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#26 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 03:47:21 pm
Pilier du Desert sit is meant to be a great looking project but no idea how hard.

Been done from a crouch (sort of) by our very own James Squire at about 8A+. So sit probably in the 8B-8+ range unless it's totally ridiculous.

What Dan said. At least it's not as stupidly arse scraping as Il Pirata.

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#27 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 04:42:08 pm
Wtf are you guys on about, makes me wonder if I watched the same video. What I saw was an incredible set of moves executed with amazing style on some seriously small holds. Probably the most inspired I’ve been by watching a boulder problem in years and not a set of dice being rolled in sight. Thank f@ck.

I think it looks pretty good on the basis of the moves. Moves > line. IMO. Burden of Dreams hardly a stunner. Likewise Gioa. Ondra will be well into it I recks.

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#28 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 04:50:01 pm
what 36 linked is the sitstart to the 7c stand, which is supposed to be around 8a+ (going by the article in grimper)

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#29 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 05:51:49 pm
Has Franco been there with a rope and shunt yet? 😃

Dan Cheetham

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#30 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 05:58:18 pm
I once had a dream..... no hang on that wasn’t funny the first or second time 😂

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#31 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 06:36:20 pm
Compared to a previous 'hardest in the world' (Terranova) this one's a beauty. Great story to add to the canon of climbing folklore: little-known crusty does world's joint hardest boulder without shoes, names it after local dogging activity.

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#32 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 06:58:22 pm
Very inspiring in terms of the hard moves but I'm in agreement that the rock looks dump. In terms of hard projects in font surely the sit start to Imhotep has to be right up there.

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#33 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 07:27:05 pm
Compared to a previous 'hardest in the world' (Terranova) this one's a beauty. Great story to add to the canon of climbing folklore: little-known crusty does world's joint hardest boulder without shoes, names it after local dogging activity.

In Grimper he gives as the main reason for trying the project that it was only an hour walk from home.

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#34 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 07:58:31 pm
Compared to a previous 'hardest in the world' (Terranova) this one's a beauty. Great story to add to the canon of climbing folklore: little-known crusty does world's joint hardest boulder without shoes, names it after local dogging activity.

In Grimper he gives as the main reason for trying the project that it was only an hour walk from home.

Is that with or without shoes?

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#35 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 09:16:01 pm
I definitely like how understatedly maverick the guy is. It's not very over-caffeinated sugary drink company which is nice. It does look better in the wide angle shot. The brutality of the moves give it the hard grade, other factors may give it star quality.

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#36 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 18, 2019, 10:57:39 pm
I’ll admit I read this thinking it all sounded a bit dubious, but then I watched the videos and it actually looks amazing! Sure not the most aesthetic, but amazing bloody hard moves.
I’m another sucker fooled by the mass climbing media into thinking you can’t to anything hard without the fame and the hype and Instagram. This is brilliant.

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#37 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 01:23:44 pm
I like how through the French encouragement there's a quick 'yes mate!' from the group. I imagine there are lots of euro wads shouting 'G'wan pal!' at the sport crags while we're not there.

Sorry to disappoint you but on a second watch/listen I'm pretty sure it's "yes mec" not "mate".

"Mec" being basically "mate" en français (or "bro" or "dude" if you prefer)

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#38 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 01:37:47 pm
I don't buy the Albert product. Nothing against his climbing, but he, as a person, looks to me as fake as a 3 euro bill.
Maybe at the beginning of his career, he was just a naif guy with strong fingers and toes, but - at least from what I get from that first video linked - now he looks very, very well aware of his mediatic power, and very well versed into walking the thin line between limelight and stealth performances and appearances.
"We managed to go to the proj..."
"That fucking pinch dude..."
He was barely able to speak and look into the camera just a few years ago. Now he seems to have learnt the American way of talking "hardcore climbing".
"The proj", "Dude", are you fucking kidding me?
To me it's just copy/paste. Let's do what others do.
Again, incredible climbing feats, etc. But I don't buy the whole package.
Twenty sessions, videos on it, witnessed by Grimper's editor, but no video?
Nalle was on his own for years, yet there's video of the send.
A two moves, 8c sitter to Hypothese, and no video?
Why?
Why?
I am not doubting his ascents, I don't even care.
I am asking myself if the is really so casual or so calculated.
I am asking myself if the lack of videos, teamed with the witnesses thing, people sure about his achievements, couldn't really be a very productive strategy to be under the limelight without really being under the limelight. Measuring every public appearance, then throwing big numbers to the media, couldn't only be a successfull marketing way of creating a new climbing hero?
"He's not even sponsored, he doesn't have shoes, yet the climbs the hardest problems ever! He's the new generations' hero!"
Anyway, I wonder why I even posted this, given how little I care about Charles Albert (or any other climber, to be honest).
Finally I ask myself: can you do three good laps back to back on a 9a boulder problem?

Nibile

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#39 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 01:47:41 pm
what 36 linked is the sitstart to the 7c stand, which is supposed to be around 8a+ (going by the article in grimper)
So it's a 5 moves sequence into a 7c?

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#40 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 01:48:59 pm
I like how through the French encouragement there's a quick 'yes mate!' from the group. I imagine there are lots of euro wads shouting 'G'wan pal!' at the sport crags while we're not there.

Sorry to disappoint you but on a second watch/listen I'm pretty sure it's "yes mec" not "mate".

"Mec" being basically "mate" en français (or "bro" or "dude" if you prefer)

Not disappointed at all, very interesting. Thanks

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#41 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 02:01:58 pm
Jimmy Webb repeated and just logged "Belial" (Charles Albert's 8C) at Bas Cuvier as 8B+ on 8whatever.nu.
Webb's long term project is the big island sit, about 8C into 8C (the stand being soft 8C, i remember him saying somewhere) ... but i'm hoping he'll get on this new thing

Dan Cheetham

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#42 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 03:19:07 pm
I don't buy the Albert product. Nothing against his climbing, but he, as a person, looks to me as fake as a 3 euro bill.
Maybe at the beginning of his career, he was just a naif guy with strong fingers and toes, but - at least from what I get from that first video linked - now he looks very, very well aware of his mediatic power, and very well versed into walking the thin line between limelight and stealth performances and appearances.
"We managed to go to the proj..."
"That fucking pinch dude..."
He was barely able to speak and look into the camera just a few years ago. Now he seems to have learnt the American way of talking "hardcore climbing".
"The proj", "Dude", are you fucking kidding me?
To me it's just copy/paste. Let's do what others do.
Again, incredible climbing feats, etc. But I don't buy the whole package.
Twenty sessions, videos on it, witnessed by Grimper's editor, but no video?
Nalle was on his own for years, yet there's video of the send.
A two moves, 8c sitter to Hypothese, and no video?
Why?
Why?
I am not doubting his ascents, I don't even care.
I am asking myself if the is really so casual or so calculated.
I am asking myself if the lack of videos, teamed with the witnesses thing, people sure about his achievements, couldn't really be a very productive strategy to be under the limelight without really being under the limelight. Measuring every public appearance, then throwing big numbers to the media, couldn't only be a successfull marketing way of creating a new climbing hero?
"He's not even sponsored, he doesn't have shoes, yet the climbs the hardest problems ever! He's the new generations' hero!"
Anyway, I wonder why I even posted this, given how little I care about Charles Albert (or any other climber, to be honest).
Finally I ask myself: can you do three good laps back to back on a 9a boulder problem?

That’s a lot of ‘not caring’  ;)


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#44 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 05:10:20 pm
I hope colosse translates directly to colossus as that’s the best compliment ever.

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#45 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 05:33:35 pm
That’s a lot of ‘not caring’  ;)

Very good :D

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#46 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 06:15:17 pm
I don't buy the Albert product. Nothing against his climbing, but he, as a person, looks to me as fake as a 3 euro bill.
Maybe at the beginning of his career, he was just a naif guy with strong fingers and toes, but - at least from what I get from that first video linked - now he looks very, very well aware of his mediatic power, and very well versed into walking the thin line between limelight and stealth performances and appearances.
"We managed to go to the proj..."
"That fucking pinch dude..."
He was barely able to speak and look into the camera just a few years ago. Now he seems to have learnt the American way of talking "hardcore climbing".
"The proj", "Dude", are you fucking kidding me?
To me it's just copy/paste. Let's do what others do.
Again, incredible climbing feats, etc. But I don't buy the whole package.
Twenty sessions, videos on it, witnessed by Grimper's editor, but no video?
Nalle was on his own for years, yet there's video of the send.
A two moves, 8c sitter to Hypothese, and no video?
Why?
Why?
I am not doubting his ascents, I don't even care.
I am asking myself if the is really so casual or so calculated.
I am asking myself if the lack of videos, teamed with the witnesses thing, people sure about his achievements, couldn't really be a very productive strategy to be under the limelight without really being under the limelight. Measuring every public appearance, then throwing big numbers to the media, couldn't only be a successfull marketing way of creating a new climbing hero?
"He's not even sponsored, he doesn't have shoes, yet the climbs the hardest problems ever! He's the new generations' hero!"
Anyway, I wonder why I even posted this, given how little I care about Charles Albert (or any other climber, to be honest).
Finally I ask myself: can you do three good laps back to back on a 9a boulder problem?

That’s a lot of ‘not caring’  ;)
Indeed, hence my question about why was I posting in the first place.
But not caring doesn't mean that I like to be treated like a fool by anyone...

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#47 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 06:19:56 pm
I hope colosse translates directly to colossus as that’s the best compliment ever.

Never mind that, what's the deal with that moonboard replica in Grimper?

And Nibble - I get what you're saying, but aren't you risking a 'witch test' by your logic. Under the radar and good enough to climb 8C+/9A - clearly the reticence is fake. In the limelight and good enough to climb 8C+/9A - clearly an attention craving sell-out.

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#48 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 06:33:48 pm
i'm hoping he'll get on this new thing

Crikey I'm not. As much as I've defended this new 9A, I'd much rather see Jimmy get up Big Island Assis!!

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#49 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
January 19, 2019, 06:39:51 pm
Pete and Dan, I get what you mean as well.
I only feel that HIS reticence is fake.