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9A in Font by Charles Albert (Read 16322 times)

yetix

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#125 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 10:36:21 am
He did these in 10 days 2 years ago:

- Fatman, ~8B

- The Traphouse, ~8B+

- Gecko assis, ~8B+

- Jour de chasse, ~8C

- The Big island, ~8C

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#126 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 10:46:47 am
He did these in 10 days 2 years ago:

- Fatman, ~8B

- The Traphouse, ~8B+

- Gecko assis, ~8B+

- Jour de chasse, ~8C

- The Big island, ~8C


Is Fatman not defunct nowadays? I thought that was the one that had the holds removed. Anyone?

yetix

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#127 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 10:52:51 am
https://bleau.info/rempart/356.html doesn't really help answer that with "Still possible after destruction of the holds?" 

36chambers

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#128 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 11:14:22 am
This website (https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-boulder-problems) has got him down as having done The Big Island and an 8C in Japan. According to that list there's no shortage of 8Cs in Japan (19) and there's an 8C+ there.

According to that site 8C, or above, was climbed 70 times in 2018! I've never really thought about what that number should be, but it's higher than I would have guessed. Also, in total, 8C or above has been climbed 409 times. 

yetix

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#129 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 11:20:20 am
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5qERffAPg96HP43OPUHPTw/videos

videos of him on Big Island, Jour de Chasse amongst other things here.

jwi

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#130 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 12:08:33 pm

According to that site 8C, or above, was climbed 70 times in 2018! I've never really thought about what that number should be, but it's higher than I would have guessed. Also, in total, 8C or above has been climbed 409 times.

Clearly significantly easier than doing 9a+ or onsighting 8c, which to me indicates that the gradespans on hard boulder grades are too narrow. Contrary to what many of the strongest claim.

I'm pretty confident that 8A boulder is approximately as hard as onsighting 8a for the average male climber. Same for 7a/7A

Doylo

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#131 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 12:28:23 pm
The point is if it is 9A it’d make him another level from any of the other top boulderers. 9A will get done much quicker than Nalles 100 days (or whatever it was) but surely not 4 days yet. That’d make him head and shoulders above the rest (maybe he is?!) Daniel Woods was close on Sleepwalker sit which sounds like a grade harder than the stand but he must have been on it 20 days or so at least.

cheque

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#132 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 12:57:51 pm
approximately as hard as onsighting 8a for the average male climber

So, impossible?

jwi

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#133 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 01:51:17 pm
haha! I could have expressed myself better

jwi

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#134 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 02:40:50 pm
'a bit difficult' in Japanese often means 'completely impossible, why we are having this coversation?'.

^ THIS! When someone responds “chotto muzukashi” (literally “a bit difficult/complicated”) to a request I usually take this to mean “never in my lifetime”.

36chambers

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#135 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 03:51:58 pm
According to that site 8C, or above, was climbed 70 times in 2018! I've never really thought about what that number should be, but it's higher than I would have guessed. Also, in total, 8C or above has been climbed 409 times.
Clearly significantly easier than doing 9a+ or onsighting 8c, which to me indicates that the gradespans on hard boulder grades are too narrow. Contrary to what many of the strongest claim.

I disagree about 8C being easier than 9a+, but perhaps that's my bouldering bias coming through. 

Regardless, more data from the same site gives:
- bouldering: 409 8C and above from 131 different people
- sport: 304 9a+ and above from 78 different people.

You'd have to normalise the data before you can make any meaningful comparisons though :)

teestub

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#136 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 04:12:41 pm

You'd have to normalise the data before you can make any meaningful comparisons though :)

This is what I thought when I saw the comparison; seems there's more people operating at the top of bouldering than there is at the top of sport climbing.

Kingy

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#137 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 07:14:53 pm

Is Fatman not defunct nowadays?

Bleau info seems to suggest that it might still be possible https://bleau.info/rempart/356.html

Ellis doing it and now this chap would appear to corroborate this. Although its not clear whether they might possibly have done something else in this area mistakenly thinking it to be Fatman?  :-\

jwi

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#138 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 07:28:18 pm

You'd have to normalise the data before you can make any meaningful comparisons though :)

This is what I thought when I saw the comparison; seems there's more people operating at the top of bouldering than there is at the top of sport climbing.

49 ascents of routes 9a+ or harder last year:
Code: [Select]
                              Name Grade           Climber
 1:                      Disbelief    9b        Adam Ondra
 2:                        Eagle 4    9b        Adam Ondra
 3:                      High Line 9a+/b        Adam Ondra
 4:                     Czech Trip   9a+        Adam Ondra
 5:                    La Castagne   9a+        Adam Ondra
 6:                         Meiose   9a+        Adam Ondra
 7:                      Sacrifice   9a+        Adam Ondra
 8:                Stone Butterfly   9a+        Adam Ondra
 9:              Super Crackinette   9a+        Adam Ondra
10:    Underground > Pure dreaming   9a+        Adam Ondra
11:                Energia Cosmica   9a+   Alessandro Zeni
12:                 Perfecto Mundo   9b+   Alexander Megos
13:              La Cène du Lézard   9a+     Cédric Lachat
14:                     La Capella    9b      Daniel Woods
15:                      First Ley   9a+      Daniel Woods
16:                       Modified   9a+  David Firnenburg
17:                      La Rambla   9a+       Gerard Rull
18:              Super Crackinette   9a+   Gérôme Pouvreau
19:                       Artaburu 9a+/b          Iker Pou
20:                    Neanderthal    9b    Jakob Schubert
21:               Stoking the fire    9b    Jakob Schubert
22:                  El bon combat 9a+/b    Jakob Schubert
23:                        Catxasa   9a+    Jakob Schubert
24:                        Catxasa   9a+     Jakub Konecny
25:                      Es Pontas   9a+         Jan Hojer
26:                       Dugi Rat   9a+     Jernej Kruder
27:               Life of Villains   9a+        Joe Kinder
28:                      La Rambla   9a+      Jon Cardwell
29:                     Jumbo love    9b Jonathan Siegrist
30:                       Panorama   9a+  Jorge Diaz Rullo
31:                   Sashidananda   9a+       Loïc Zehani
32:                Fight or Flight    9b        Matty Hong
33:               Life of Villains   9a+        Matty Hong
34:     Ali Hulk (extension total)   9a+       Piotr Schab
35:           Ali Hulk (extension)   9a+       Piotr Schab
36:         Biographie/Realization   9a+       Piotr Schab
37:                        Catxasa   9a+       Piotr Schab
38:                No Pain No Gain   9a+       Piotr Schab
39:                    La Barrière    9b     Pirmin Bertle
40:                      Soul Mate    9b        Sachi Amma
41:                           Rise   9a+        Sachi Amma
42: Les yeux plus gros que l'antre 9a+/b   Sébastien Bouin
43:                La Côte d'Usure   9a+   Sébastien Bouin
44:                      First Ley   9a+    Shawn Raboutou
45:         Biographie/Realization   9a+   Stefano Carnati
46:                 Perfecto Mundo   9b+  Stefano Ghisolfi
47:                     La Capella    9b  Stefano Ghisolfi
48:                      La Rambla   9a+     Tomas Ravanal
49:                        Jaws II   9a+      Tristan Chen

Moo

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#139 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 08:10:21 pm
Had a look at this today, obviously looks very hard, but the holds are quite positive. I reckon it’s one of the less conditions dependant hard problems I’ve seen.  I can see why a strong fingered light person would get on well with it.

It also looks a lot better in the flesh than on video.

Doylo

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#140 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 08:17:48 pm
Had a look at this today, obviously looks very hard, but the holds are quite positive. I reckon it’s one of the less conditions dependant hard problems I’ve seen.  I can see why a strong fingered light person would get on well with it.

It also looks a lot better in the flesh than on video.

How did Ned get on?  ;)

Moo

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#141 Re: 9A in Font by Charles Albert
March 11, 2019, 08:27:19 pm
Rest day scenes, there’s some good looking problems on that boulder though.