[user deactivated]

Flicked onto the other channel yesterday to see fiend getting a load of shit for having a solid opinion about it. I was surprised to see people are still seeing their arse about this really, I mean headpointing is a bit cheaty isn’t it, but good fun sometimes too. I loved the ‘imagine all the climbers’ mock response though. I mean how much headpointing really goes on anyway? I’ve spent a year mooching around deserted crags with a mix of styles and  pretty much the only people I’ve bumped into are out bouldering.

[ashtond6]

I'm sure we can have a more interesting discussion on this channel,

I agree - who really cares, everyone considers it to be a lesser style than onsighting, same in sport climbing or bouldering.

Why is it so different because there is natural gear? It really just changes how it is approached...

Whether a route gets worked or not is purely logistical. I've headpointed like 5 routes ever yet redpointed hundreds. Summary - its loads more faff than sport climbing so i can't be arsed & just go sport climbing...

[T_B]

I've not read the article but I'm amazed they've published something so lengthy. Doesn't 'Gen Z' have the attention span to read 3 bullet points at most?!

[user deactivated]

I'm sure we can have a more interesting discussion on this channel,

I agree - who really cares, everyone considers it to be a lesser style than onsighting, same in sport climbing or bouldering.

Why is it so different because there is natural gear? It really just changes how it is approached...

Whether a route gets worked or not is purely logistical. I've headpointed like 5 routes ever yet redpointed hundreds. Summary - its loads more faff than sport climbing so i can't be arsed & just go sport climbing...

Wow, you must have saved the interesting bit for your posts on ukc 

[lagerstarfish]

I've not read the article but I'm amazed they've published something so lengthy. Doesn't 'Gen Z' have the attention span to read 3 bullet points at most?!

think how many adverts you have to scroll past (and maybe see) with something that long - even if all you want to do is read the comments section

[jwi]

Edlinger headpointed quite a few of his more wackily bolted routes, and look what happened to him.

[lagerstarfish]

Edlinger headpointed quite a few of his more wackily bolted routes, and look what happened to him.

after he stopped headpointing?

[jwi]

haha, the lesson is the opposite of what I thought! Keep on headpointing kids!

[Fiend]

Worth noting that I didn't read the article - I'm not interested in the Franco/TheMoors/H10/whatever publicity machine - and I certainly will never read any replies to my comment on it (my modus operandi these days), although I did take care to make sure my comment was palatable and straightforward.

The more I think about it, the more I dislike the whole thing, especially promoting the exact opposite direction to how climbing progression should be going. Franco may or may not be talking about his own precious new routes, but given they're a limited resource and too hard for most people, stylistic progression further down the difficulty levels is obvious and natural.

[ashtond6]

I'm sure we can have a more interesting discussion on this channel,

I agree - who really cares, everyone considers it to be a lesser style than onsighting, same in sport climbing or bouldering.

Why is it so different because there is natural gear? It really just changes how it is approached...

Whether a route gets worked or not is purely logistical. I've headpointed like 5 routes ever yet redpointed hundreds. Summary - its loads more faff than sport climbing so i can't be arsed & just go sport climbing...

Wow, you must have saved the interesting bit for your posts on ukc 

Haha sorry, that forum really winds me up, I do wonder why I go on there.

However, if said person goes fishing, he must expect to catch some fish.

Have a look at my punters too.
It's a long term beef.   

[Fiend]

Since that refers to me: No - I can neither remember nor care less what the puntering was about, in fact the stray wad point at the time indicates it was hardly of any interest even then.

[monkoffunk]

I've not read the article but I'm amazed they've published something so lengthy. Doesn't 'Gen Z' have the attention span to read 3 bullet points at most?!

Read about half, but alternative was even more boring.

[mrjonathanr]

Edlinger headpointed quite a few of his more wackily bolted routes, and look what happened to him.

He gave up and soloed Orange Mécanique instead?

Dangerous, thin end of the wedge, this headpointing business ..

[user deactivated]

thin end of the wedge

Isn’t that a boulder problem at Burnage south where the a block was crowbarred out to make room for a bum start 

[user deactivated]

Burnage south ahahhah get the Gallagher’s to spot 😂

[teestub]

The few goes on toprope followed by a lead, aka 'The Cheetham', seems like a good option on grit for people who need their ankles intact to go into work the next day.

[user deactivated]

By name and nature apparently Tim - have a wad point!

[AMorris]

Worth noting that I didn't read the article - I'm not interested in the Franco/TheMoors/H10/whatever publicity machine - and I certainly will never read any replies to my comment on it (my modus operandi these days), although I did take care to make sure my comment was palatable and straightforward.

The more I think about it, the more I dislike the whole thing, especially promoting the exact opposite direction to how climbing progression should be going. Franco may or may not be talking about his own precious new routes, but given they're a limited resource and too hard for most people, stylistic progression further down the difficulty levels is obvious and natural.

Your comments on Franco entertain me immensely. I was so glad to see you were the first to post about in on the other channel.

[webbo]

Wasn’t this covered in the Glue gate thread.
Franco top roping stuff to death then head pointing, where as Dan V and gang minimal practice the work from the ground.

[ashtond6]

Since that refers to me: No - I can neither remember nor care less what the puntering was about, in fact the stray wad point at the time indicates it was hardly of any interest even then.

Was talking to Dan. Hence the quote, to Dan.

[user deactivated]

Don’t let me get in the way of a good scrap lads 😂

But seriously tho, cmon fiend we all love your posts man. Good on ya. Ad away n shite with yer headpointing article whatever ya name is....

[tomtom]

I read Francos Article. And it made a pleasant change from the usual crampon/leighweight jacket sponsored overviews etc...

But it didn’t half go off on one towards the end. Plus I would suggest that there are a whole range of objective dangers that come from dangling on a rope up high solo toproping something - than dangling 1m above a bouldering pad... that whole section seemed a bit weird and maybe a tad dangerous for them to print.

Anyway - I was always happy to toprope stuff when pushing your grade (when I did roped stuff). Who really cares apart from yourself?

Is this where I can talk about Cryogenics? 😂

[mrjonathanr]

Depends whether you top-roped it first.

[cheque]

there are a whole range of objective dangers that come from dangling on a rope up high solo toproping something - than dangling 1m above a bouldering pad... that whole section seemed a bit weird and maybe a tad dangerous for them to print.

It’s rock climbing Tom. It’s all a tad dangerous.

[Paul B]

Anyway - I was always happy to toprope stuff when pushing your grade (when I did roped stuff). Who really cares apart from yourself?

I haven't read the article and I doubt I'll get around to it. However, just before leaving Sheffield I realised I'd been kidding myself thinking I'd get around to actually doing a lot of the grit routes I aspired to that included genuine risk (I wasn't overly fond of my Illizarov frame and don't fancy another!). Thus, I had a great time running around the Peak district with my knackered old fat sport rope and a micro-traxion 'blowing on-sights' for fun.

/punter