UKBouldering.com

This Is The Year Club 462 7th - 13th January 2019 (Read 2499 times)

tomtom

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 16709
  • Karma: +521/-8
Afternoon all. Hope you all had a good week - I had a pretty good one (subtracting the work components... :) )

Mon, Tues, First days back in work since NY :(

Weds: Worked in the morning - then over to Burbage on my way back to Manchester - got there about 2:30. Met up with Toby at Remergence and eventually sketched my way up Blind Date (YYFY!)


(forgive the poorly executed video edit - I thought the idea was good - but might not have turned out quite right)

Conditions had been pointing to Wednesday as the best day (cold - bit of wind) and having had two days off I was raring to go. Though - an incoming cold and after a long morning at work and long drive are never ideal times. I didnt think it was going to go TBH, I kept bailing out if I didnt get the first move right  - but then decided I had enough strength/form to adjust on the sloper well and seemed to be burning skin.. The go it went was a real fight.. had to re-settle LH on the sloper, my body sags on the LH up to slot move (previous attempt on video its static) and I had to pad my RH up to the RH slot (normally deep flag and straightforward reach). But managed to plant my LF on the pebble and after a deep breath gibbered up and across (couldnt really feel my LH on the good hold when I got it..).

A strange one - its certainly one of my longest worked problems (on and off for 5 years or so? some years more than others etc..) and I didnt feel any mega elation afterwards - more just relief! I read these tales of outer body experiences whilst doing mega hard trad/death routes etc.. and I didnt have one of those - but it bizarrely didnt really feel like me climbing it. Toby came really close - twice dropping the last hold (hopefully by the time I write this he's got it done) - and thanks to him for the spotting/encouragement/putting up with my blathering.

Fri: Gardoms North with Nai and Plattsy. A bit damp, crap conditions - lots of stuff green. We tried the arete - but was too scrittly/squirmy and ended up wasting skin on G/Bishop etc... ending with a mantel competition that none of us won :D Good times.

Sa: Sun: Family stuff.

Presently trying two days of rest between sessions (where possible) and it seems to be working - getting much more value out of the time outdoors rather than feeling half cooked.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2347
  • Karma: +120/-7
Afternoon all. Hope you all had a good week - I had a pretty good one (subtracting the work components... :) )

Mon, Tues, First days back in work since NY :(

Weds: Worked in the morning - then over to Burbage on my way back to Manchester - got there about 2:30. Met up with Toby at Remergence and eventually sketched my way up Blind Date (YYFY!)

Such a quintessential Grit moment during the video as the snow falls.

tomtom

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 16709
  • Karma: +521/-8
Such a quintessential Grit moment during the video as the snow falls.

Hence it made the cut :) #atmospheric

Dan Cheetham

  • Guest
Good effort TomTom, there is another move on that too. Up from the jug to a pebble and rock to the next break. No one ever does it but I reckon it adds a bit of spice and is quite hard in itís own right.

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Hangdog millionaire
  • Posts: 2100
  • Karma: +289/-1
    • Cheque Pictures
Good effort TomTom, there is another move on that too.

So back around.

tomtom

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 16709
  • Karma: +521/-8
Good effort TomTom, there is another move on that too.

So back around.

Ha ha. Not for me there isnít :) Iím quite looking forward to not going near Remergence for a while!!

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1300
  • Karma: +65/-2
Nice work Tom Tom! Looking strong. enjoy the closure!  :icon_beerchug:

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 4945
  • Karma: +366/-78
    • Unknown Stones
You'll get that, TT   ;)

T - Depot. Board. Got the lower section of Austrian Mock sorted. Still can't really do the Throw To Horn. Jim's cut loose beta seems good. Still not really getting on with the 50 but that means lots of room for improvement. I was impressed by just how many moves Jim was knocking out on it. Sport climber innit.

Sat - relieved of parenting duties at about 2 and dashed to Glen for a session with Louise and co for her 29th birthday.
Arrived and the crew was at Millstone Grit. The 2 8A climbers had written it off as being too greasy on the crimp. I showed them my highly advanced tool - a brush loaded with chalk - and it was on. We soon did it, but not without an obligatory dry fire by 36C just as he put his hand in the top break.
Did Glen Campus Low (guidebook 7B) which I was told I could use the plinth for. It was a path. Will go back and try it without the plinth to get it up to 7B. Then a collection of first go repeats inc Parker Sit, Phil's, and Red Baron. 17 problems done in total. Felt nicely worked by the time dusk fell.

Sunday - aerocap at Eureka. Kids kept trying to get on before my stopwatch had beeped. Punters.


gollum

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 121
  • Karma: +8/-0
 M - RED run and pull ups and activations this morning to blow the Monday morning cobwebs. Evening was an interesting session. Warmed up with a bit of composing which I havenít done in a month or so. Really close to getting 1-4-7 which would have been first time in six years. Wonít be long I reckon.
Then into Project session. Three problems twenty minutes working each one on Depot 50 Board. First problem was Zoo York copy which I managed to do all the moves or at least nearly did and worked some sequence. Will give it another go and should get some links I think. Then on to the infamous Austrian Mock. Looks like this has been a ocular problem this week. Got it in two overlapping halves and think I can definitely get it done if remember the footholds. Finished with a problem on bigger holds that I had been working which I got second go, so went on to try it on opposite side of the board where one off the hold is missing and the other one is much poorer.
A good session, finishing off with a few 10 second hangs on 6mm Progression holds.

T - Lifting session with pause reps to warm up and then doubles to 100k benches, followed by floor presses and shoulder presses.
Lunchtime 5 on 3 off for 3 reps, all at 6c+ so definite improvement in grade. A good steady exercise to get a bit of blood flowing in the middle off the working day.
Evening RED run with wifey, just about keeping up but do enjoy running together.
Finish off with Max Hangs on one arm for 96%. Feels okay but still think Bodyweight is a while off yet.

W - Stay in bed half an hour and do pull ups and activations at home before I leave for work. Nice start to the day.
Cardio at lunch. RED 5k for MIND.
Evening session at the wall. Finish warm up on Campus Board and manage 1-4-7 move which is first time in over six years and first time since I returned to bouldering 7 month ago. Happy enough with that.
Then 3 problems by 5 sets on 50 Degree Board at Depot. Mixed success but achieved training objective I think. Was doing second ha
F of Austrian Mock for laps. Finished off with 10 sets of 1 minute on 2 off on circuit board on the 7a circuit.....not sure I could have gone harder and think I got the level about right for the moment.

T - RED 5k in a quick enough time for me. TRX Push on rings and feel like I finally have a set up that works without just leaving grazes on my arms where they rub.
Evening at the Depot. Did some playing on Comp Pinks for a while getting close to one, doing another and getting nowhere on another. Then went into 5 x 3 Boulder Intervals. Picked problems that were a definite step up from previous sessions at this and had mixed success and was blown by the third or fourth rep. Probably good for training effect especially as will be having a week snowboarding next week and so getting good recovery going on.

F - Travel to London for work. Some steady pull ups and activations when I get up. RED run in the evening with Mrs B. I run quicker when I just have a vest and shorts on in January because all my warner running kit is packed for a snowboarding trip.

S - Early morning RED. Max Hangs, four sets at 93% four sets at 96%. Good solid session

S - RED run in the morning and then the day spent riding awesome powder on my snowboard.

nai

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3458
  • Karma: +163/-1
  • In my dreams
M -  2x10mins Aero, mobility?

T - Max hangs warm up & retest. Slightly down on pre torn shoulder scores, but only slightly so happy with that.
Went to Baslow to try Heroes, had tried the LH finish briefly pre tear. Did it quite easily which was surprising as the only part of me that can be stronger than previously is core. Then did the proper finish which was even more surprising and not much harder.
Core back home

W - sore left bicep.
    - Leg & Hip mobility, introduced some dynamic stretches see if they make any difference

Th -  tried warming up but bicep not happy 
     - Core, L&H mobility, shoulder mobiliy

F - Gardoms with tt and Plattsy. Sub optimal but fun. Excuses galore...

S -
HI Aero - FoC 10x1 min, 1 min rest.
Core
L&H mobility

S - Shoulder mobility  + some L&H mob

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8125
  • Karma: +682/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
goals - Peak 7C, Font 7C, onsight The Oak

M - experiment with vertical circuit in garage - 2 x 10 mins constant movement
Tu - several DIY projects ticked - 20 mins on easy vertical circuit = sore skin, but little joint pain
W - Air Activities badge with Beavers. Worked fingers making 50+ paper planes
Th - gym. good fun with combined sets of pullups, pressups, deadlifts. latice boys inspired TRX. pretend bike
F - moderate booze
Sa - mini works with younger kids - did some murples
Su - mini works with the little lad - he did a load of stuff he couldn't do the day before, I redid a few murples in a non-lank way - we did some traversing together inventing rests

Bradders

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 255
  • Karma: +14/-1
M - quick evening 'getting back into it' fingerboard session. Warmed up and did gradually heavier hangs before 7 sets of 10s 4f HC deadhangs on the small BM2k edges w/ 21kg added.

T - back on Zoo York. Good session. Sorted the stand start having not done it for ages; took longer than I'd have liked but eventually felt fine. Did all the moves again and most felt steady. Few goes from the start, best of which I hit the LH slot and engaged but my LF popped. On my way home popped into the Depot and did what I think was an aerocap session; went round the 6a circuit 6 times resting equal to time on the wall. Fairly pumped by the end.

W - rest

T - had intended to do one arm hangs at the Depot removing weight, but arrived and realised I'd not brought the correct rope. Instead after warming up did 5x 10s one arm on the large BM2k centre jug. Desperate. Mark Katz was present and correctly assessed that I'm shit at one arm hangs. Can't hang bodyweight one armed from any of the other holds on the BM2k, even for half a second. At least it's something to work on. After that went on the 50 with a few other UKBers. Good fun. Tried my Zoo York replica a couple of times but dropped the deadpoint. Other brief punts on Gourmand-ease and Austrian Mock were fairly unsuccessful.

F - evening hangboard. 7x 4f HC 6r 7/3 repeaters on the larger BM2k outside slots. Powering out by the last hang of each set but completed them all. Then did a couple sets of the same but f3 open grip which weirdly felt easier.

S - sports massage booked as a Christmas present.

S - went to Caley initially. Not great cons. Very strong wind but moisture in the air. Flashed Otley Wall having realised I'd never tried it before and then it rained. Drove through a fair bit of rain up to Brimham but rewarded with excellent cons. First session on The Fonz in about a year. After re-learning the moves got the 'two halves' tick, going from the start to the LH drop in move, and then from the move before that to the end. Did the crux sequence a few times which I'd never done before. Great progress. When I got home went for a short gentle run with my girlfriend.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6752
  • Karma: +448/-13
  • insect overlord #1
Great news TT. Waddage

11.5-7 Average 160.2 down 0.1 lbs


M Eve Foundry quick visit. Did some autobelay routes in the Furnace. Quick dabble on campus board demonstrated I wasnít fresh enough to carry on

T Felt tired. Went to Gardoms on own as Dolly was ill again and Ben wanted to study. Nice and chilly with wind to start with but then it disappeared and midges appeared! Spent all time on Marks Roof. Other teams on it at various points. Aim was to get a sequence for top moves and came away with two which isnt twice as good. Didnt successfully dog it either way so at end when it was getting nicely chilly and dark I had 3 goes from start to see whether that would give me the extra redpoint oomph. Gave it everything and felt like I was close each time but I was obviously tired from working it over previous 4 hours. Tweaked shoulder a bit

W PM Max hangs. Good session. Afterwards went to first weekly session of 8 of strength training programme for climbers at Collegiate. Quite a few familiar faces. Warm up (nails!) then benchmarking on deadlift, bench press, weighted pull-ups (5reps and single), endurance lock off, jump test and grip test. Weird to do weights not on my own. Couldnít get used to dropping bar at end of deadlift.

T

F AM Met Nick at Tor. It was wet so headed to Remegence as a safe bet. Good nick. Many goes on Blind Date tickling the left slot and 3 goes almost holding it. Nick made good progress with an interesting sequence using the crimp you're not allowed on Blind Fig
Eve Max hangs - decent progress

S

S Home board.2hours tweaking and attempting harder Oak problems.
Eve Anderson hangs session. Bit over cooked from bouldering but ploughed on. Brutal.

Apparently the Oak was dry this week. Toyed with going up but decided against it.

Mixed week. Generally felt tired. Max hangs going well, decent attempt at Marks Roof and feeling strong on Oak board moves. Disappointingly slow progress on weight loss and shoulder out of sorts so seeing the Queen of Pain tomorrow


jamesturnbull97

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 88
  • Karma: +3/-0
4 weeks on from Ankle injury, another step in the right direction.

M - W. Working on new van  :2thumbsup:
T. Depot eve - First time trying to climb on my ankle 4 weeks on  ;D. It felt weak but did't really hurt that much as long as I was careful, was pretty tentative to commit to some move seen as I didn't want to fall on it. Seemed alright climbing at the board just being able to front point on holds, it turns out my benchmarks are quite a bit harder essentially one footed leading to plenty of hopping around as Jim and Bradders can attest to.
F. Slipstones - Good day out at the crag with Will and Myles. Again nice to be out even if I'm not climbing just shooting photos instead.
S. Epic afternoon surf on the East coast. Don't often get 17 second period swell so that meant some of the reefs were firing way way overhead with big long wall. Felt a bit cumbersome surfing with an ankle brace on but manageable being my front foot.
S. More van work.

Again ankle better this week feels like I can slowly ease into climbing again just needing to be careful with impact on it with a lack of support on it when climbing and carry on with rehab to get it strengthened up again. More really good looking surf this week so hopefully the ankle holds up and I can score.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7260
  • Karma: +659/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
Power Club

Mon - PE high, 15/30 x10 x2, + 2 kg, brilliant. Clean and press.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, garage session. Snatch pulls in between hangs, x10 (60 kg).
Thu - Hackey pull x10, clean and press x20 x4.
Fri - Snatch pulls x10, clean and press x5, tricep planks x5, static/dynamic pull ups x3, x6. Abs.
Sat - overhead walk, abs.
Sun - foot on campusing x20. Hackey pull x5, snatch x5, clean and press x5 (30 kg), static/dynamic pull ups x3, x6 sets (2x3). Brutal.

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3015
  • Karma: +169/-3
Goal - 3 x new outdoor Font 7as this year

Bitty week, back at work after a decent long Xmas break.

W - Big Depot evening. Following a reset it seems the previously-a-bit-soft grading has been rectified - my ego was not happy. Went from flashing V5-V7 purples to having to siege the one on the slab (my home turf) though I eventually got it.

Sat - down in Bolehill for a family get-together. Despite filthy weather and family faffing I managed to a) get up to Black Rocks and b) find the 7a I wanted to get on dry - even the fucking lottery etc.

Sadly I couldn't capitalise on this and left sans tick. Was pretty rushed as I was trying it while the family shivered nearby, so I warmed up by pulling on it, and wasn't really resting inbetween goes.

Got a long weekend away on my tod this weekend - staying at North Lees again so hoping for 3 days of health, power, thick skin, primo connies and good luck. Assuming that one or more of those may be in short supply!


AMorris

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 160
  • Karma: +12/-0
eventually sketched my way up Blind Date (YYFY!)

Top effort! Wadded.

Had a decent week with some action in the pass.

M - Rest

T - Training at the wall, inexplicably getting up two projects with very little hassle. It was at the end of the session that we realised the conditions in the pass for the next day warranted a day attack so the session was cut short.

W - The attack began at the barrel, where I had unfinished business with Barrel Groove - 7C. First time I tried this problem (a few years back) it felt totally impossible, I remember turning to my friend and saying "if this is what 7C feels like here I stand no chance". Gathering some beta I found that most people use a disgusting heel toe lock to make it a little easier, but early experiences in my climbing career have left me scarred and totally unwilling to take such risks 2ft off the deck, so I opted for a harder but safer right toe in the break and just bone on the ratty edges. To my surprise it went very quickly, further confirming that I am, in fact, finding some form. Had a play on the traverse too which was another one I deemed impossible on the first try, but felt totally doable. Went off the Jerry's Wall (Wastad) and did the sitter second try (flashed the stand previously) for my first Jerry's of the season.

T - Smug rest day.

F - A rare BM session for some strength testing. Max hangs. Set a few PB's like one arming the deep pockets (inexplicably, since I never train or climb on pockets), weak arm half crimp the low rung with 6kg in t'other hand, and some dirty back two action. Surprising results. I should use my hangboard more.

S - Hungover.

S - Mediocre session where I felt like I was greasing off stuff a lot, which probably means I was feeling weak.

My aim for last year was "no finger injuries in 2018" and I managed to succeed (though medial epicondylitis is creeping in, unnervingly), as well as get a great deal of mileage on rock. I am attributing my current form to these things.

Yossarian

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1775
  • Karma: +163/-5
M - Wall. Board, campus then various other stuff. Managed 146. 147 looks quite a distant prospect at the moment. Went for it a bit on various new comp wall problems which was fun and semi-successful, but felt Iíd overdone things somewhat by the end.
T - /
W - Wall. Struggled to warm up and felt a bit fucked from Monday. Sacked off board session when I realised this. Ended up doing some laps on easier problems considering ways in which to moderate my bull in a china shop approach when I do feel rested. Yoga / stretching in the evening.
T - 7km run. Various minor aches and pains still evident from previous week. Next few will be off road I think. Repeaters later, with a focus on half crimping rather than open. Iíve been musing over this https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27715.25.html and realised that I was doing all my max hangs in the latter part of last year with an open grip. Feels like a major setback as my half crimp seems really weak, but hopefully itíll pay off at some point.
F - /
S - Wall. General feeling of lethargy / lack of recovery / ineptness.
S - /

Weight has ballooned to 92kg, which hopefully is mostly down to creatine - the positive effects of which Iím now even more sceptical about. Immediate response was to shave my beard off and commit to resumption of intermittent fasting. Have a massive deadline and other things looming, so might pivot focus to doing some fun / technique-focused climbing rather than morosely languishing under the 45...

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Hangdog millionaire
  • Posts: 2100
  • Karma: +289/-1
    • Cheque Pictures
Rehab Diaries Week Twenty-one

M- Rest.

T- Fingerboard repeaters & push-ups. The latter are starting to not feel like hell on earth again now.

W- Rest. Second week I've missed gym-bike day in a row.  :spank: Car in the garage overnight is my excuse.

T- Rest.

F- Foundry autobelays. Furnace busy at first so I went on the slabby wall at the left of the main hall. This hasn't been reset for months which is good for seeing how far I've progressed- managed the black 6b which, featuring a massive rockover on my left leg, I could not touch when I last tried it.  ;D Tried a really fun 6b+ with two-finger pockets (red on Furnace RH) after but no cigar. Encouragingly though I onsighted a 6a+ as part of my warm-down when feeling pretty worn-out. Check me out.

It's interesting how much shoes make a difference now I have reduced strength in my left foot (amongst other things)- I've always been the sort of climber who just puts their flat, medium-stiffness shoes on and gets on with it, only using downturned, stiff or soft shoes every once in a while and never really feeling like they're making that much of a difference- now I literally can't climb above a certain level of difficulty in my indoor beaters (I used to be able to do L2s and the odd L3 on the Wave in these) but get much better when I get my Quantums on. My days as an Anasazi aficionado may be over...  :'(

S-Rest. Went to the most depressing football game I've ever been to (which is saying a lot)- my girlfriend's side Notts County are bottom of the league and managed to root themselves further to it by losing to an almost equally dire Cambridge United side while all the other results around them went against them too. Away fans singing all match, people walking out with 20 minutes to go,County fans fighting amongst themselves, the lot.

S- Gym. Last week I did 2x 6 minutes standing-on-Bosu-ball-holding-kettlebells with 12kg in each hand then 2 minutes w/ 16kg in each. This time I went straight to the 16s and did 5 minutes then another 4 and a half.  :strongbench: I reckon upping the weight rather than the time is the way to go with this king of conditioning exercises- there can't be many more effective ways to absolutely waste yourself in 1/4 of an hour- I felt fresh when I went to the gym but was fucked after this! I was looking at myself in the mirror (normally I position myself behind an equipemt rack so I can't see myself) and I was staggered by how much more my lower body moves to stabilise itself than I thought it did. Some machines after but I was pretty busted by then!

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 453
  • Karma: +35/-0
M - rest

T - Depot. Really good session on the board. Did everything I could do pre-xmas, did Austrian Mock again and did an introductory crimpy problem on the left hand side. Putting last weeks average session down to post Christmas lethargy. Once Will started jumping to the gaston and embracing the cut loose he looked way better on it.

W - Decided to go up to the Calf after work with a lamp. Worked and did Classic Calf which was very good, board style climbing. A pleasingly 'professional' tick. Tried Ringpiece briefly but sacked it off as the undercut was like a breadknife on my skin and I was getting cold.

T- Depot. Back on the board, unsurprisingly this felt hard third day in a row on the same style. Made progress on a problem I couldn't touch last week which was a bonus and did some good mileage. Winced as James hopped around on one good foot.

F - rest.

S- went to the Cliff tradding with a friend, soloed around and generally enjoyed being outside. Motivation to try hard in the Baltic conditions was extremely low.

S - gave blood in the morning so decided not to go out, which was a shame as conditions were actually quite good. A rest probably didn't do me any harm.

Hopefully same again this week and out on the grit at the weekend. Keen to get up to Slipstones as haven't been there before. Forecast looking promising this far out so fingers crossed.

teestub

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 564
  • Karma: +56/-3
  • Cyber Wanker

F - A rare BM session for some strength testing. Max hangs. Set a few PB's like one arming the deep pockets (inexplicably, since I never train or climb on pockets), weak arm half crimp the low rung with 6kg in t'other hand, and some dirty back two action. Surprising results. I should use my hangboard more.

I mean if you donít fingerboard much and can one arm hang the bottom rung +6kg (for how long?), unless youíre trying to climb 8B this year your fingers are probably plenty strong and youíre already fingerboarding enough!

measles23

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 245
  • Karma: +38/-1
Good things Tom

65.8kg

M- nul

T- surprised to find Seanís roof in usable connies - certainly Paint it Black and Working 9 to 5 were in; Floodgates looked to be ok but the RH gaston at the start was undryable - did all moves and the crux move half a dozen times but didnít have the heart to even try linking..

Bailed to Manc depot (it is rather good) - short intense session; nailed 4 yellows and an orange that Iíd flailed on last time, all first or second go - feeling more comfortable on the comp wall..

Picked up au pair from the airport then dropped in to check out the substation at Macclesfield due to recommendations from here- looks ace, esp short peopleís problems up to a decent grade and comp style problems down to a reasonable grade..

W- nul

T- Strength Asylum: DL 8 sets - wanted to do 3 singles at 205 but only managed 1 (dieting + DL = weakness). 3 sets x one armers doubles
Stoke AW 2 hrs with Alison - bulk middle grade problems as comp prep for next week. Felt fluid

F- nul

S- nul

S- Stoke AW 2hrs with family - tried on new no-edge Geniusís; seemed pretty good but will wait til Iíve tried them on rock to comment on no-edging.. More bulk mid grade comp prep up to V7

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8125
  • Karma: +682/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"

Picked up au pair from the airport

belaying and spotting skills essential?

AMorris

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 160
  • Karma: +12/-0

F - A rare BM session for some strength testing. Max hangs. Set a few PB's like one arming the deep pockets (inexplicably, since I never train or climb on pockets), weak arm half crimp the low rung with 6kg in t'other hand, and some dirty back two action. Surprising results. I should use my hangboard more.

I mean if you donít fingerboard much and can one arm hang the bottom rung +6kg (for how long?), unless youíre trying to climb 8B this year your fingers are probably plenty strong and youíre already fingerboarding enough!

5 seconds. I should also note that this was at half lock, which is (for me) much easier than slightly bent (I never go dead straight to conserve my elbows). So still some progress to be made but I feel like my fingers are in good form at the moment given that I havent touched the thing for months, and just train on the wall nowdays. As for climbing 8B this year, having never climbed 8A I wouldn't mind that at all  :lol:

abarro81

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2623
  • Karma: +212/-22

F - A rare BM session for some strength testing. Max hangs. Set a few PB's like one arming the deep pockets (inexplicably, since I never train or climb on pockets), weak arm half crimp the low rung with 6kg in t'other hand, and some dirty back two action. Surprising results. I should use my hangboard more.

I mean if you donít fingerboard much and can one arm hang the bottom rung +6kg (for how long?), unless youíre trying to climb 8B this year your fingers are probably plenty strong and youíre already fingerboarding enough!

Quite (perhaps unless he's 4ft tall)