UKBouldering.com

This Is The Year Club 462 7th - 13th January 2019 (Read 8859 times)

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
84.4kg -> 83.1kg

M: Tabata workout created by gf, approx 20 mins. V hard, focused on upper body antagonists and core.

T: Arch. Max hangs, 8 sets up to +16kg. Feeling v weak and heavy with sore finger pulp as well. Then climbed problems, being careful not to fall on knee. Finished with some rings (T, Y, I) and a bit of core

W: Knee exercises at home - might have over-done it so may leave knee until late Jan

T: Arch. Max hangs, 8 sets up to +18kg. Feeling a bit better, pulp still quite sore. Warmed up climbing problems but think I should rest from that (too much twisting for knee). After max hangs, climbed on 50 (more front on for knee) until tired.

F - M: In Barcelona, lots of walking which made the knee quite sore...

AMorris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 418
  • Karma: +64/-0
  • Trying to find form

F - A rare BM session for some strength testing. Max hangs. Set a few PB's like one arming the deep pockets (inexplicably, since I never train or climb on pockets), weak arm half crimp the low rung with 6kg in t'other hand, and some dirty back two action. Surprising results. I should use my hangboard more.

I mean if you don’t fingerboard much and can one arm hang the bottom rung +6kg (for how long?), unless you’re trying to climb 8B this year your fingers are probably plenty strong and you’re already fingerboarding enough!

Quite (perhaps unless he's 4ft tall)

I'm getting deja vu, Barrows.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
I'm getting deja vu, Barrows.

I accept no responsibility for anything I may or may not have said before.

But yeah, everyone is too strong. Except for me, who's too weak.  ;D

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6

F - A rare BM session for some strength testing. Max hangs. Set a few PB's like one arming the deep pockets (inexplicably, since I never train or climb on pockets), weak arm half crimp the low rung with 6kg in t'other hand, and some dirty back two action. Surprising results. I should use my hangboard more.

I mean if you don’t fingerboard much and can one arm hang the bottom rung +6kg (for how long?), unless you’re trying to climb 8B this year your fingers are probably plenty strong and you’re already fingerboarding enough!

Quite (perhaps unless he's 4ft tall)
Ditto this. A fair few 8B climbers would struggle to do this.

AMorris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 418
  • Karma: +64/-0
  • Trying to find form
I'm getting deja vu, Barrows.

I accept no responsibility for anything I may or may not have said before.

But yeah, everyone is too strong. Except for me, who's too weak.  ;D

I suspect your version of weak is what a lot of people would consider mutated!


F - A rare BM session for some strength testing. Max hangs. Set a few PB's like one arming the deep pockets (inexplicably, since I never train or climb on pockets), weak arm half crimp the low rung with 6kg in t'other hand, and some dirty back two action. Surprising results. I should use my hangboard more.

I mean if you don’t fingerboard much and can one arm hang the bottom rung +6kg (for how long?), unless you’re trying to climb 8B this year your fingers are probably plenty strong and you’re already fingerboarding enough!

Quite (perhaps unless he's 4ft tall)
Ditto this. A fair few 8B climbers would struggle to do this.


They can probably project things more than me and/or are better at moving on rock. Always hard to know where one's climbing bottle necks lie.

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
mon- Max hangs and campus session at school. Completed full set of hangs at 100% last test max so need to retest. 1-4-6 but on the big rungs. Cant push down with my trailing arm to get full lock so must work on this.

Tues- Strength intervals on moonboard. 6 problems 3x each. fell on a few goes. all 6b+ 6c which sounds easy but ends up surprisingly hard.

Wed- rings and shoulder session. My own stuff from Tim then compression session from crimpd.

Thursday - 30 mins yoga then hip and leg session from Crimpd

Fri - ditto thursday am. Pm max hang test. 83kg bw + 37.5kg = 120.5kg on the BM1k low edges. New PB and up from 104.5kg 8 weeks ago. Followed by limit bouldering for an hour. Did a benchmark 7A on moonboard and moves on two others.

Sat - Start the ancap sessions. Used the broken redpoint session from crimpd. 6 sets x 3 reps. hard but not too much.

Sun- Easy weights session in garage with youngest. 3 sets 5 of each DL-80kg, BP-60kg, PP- 25kg MP-25kg SQ-80kg

Really good week and starting to feel like i have a bit of spring. Weight down to 83kg. No booze.


A good week of training still piss weak but

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2574
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
Always hard to know where one's climbing bottle necks lie.

Well at least you can remove finger strength from the list of potential bottlenecks!

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
I'm getting deja vu, Barrows.

I accept no responsibility for anything I may or may not have said before.

But yeah, everyone is too strong. Except for me, who's too weak.  ;D

I suspect your version of weak is what a lot of people would consider mutated!


F - A rare BM session for some strength testing. Max hangs. Set a few PB's like one arming the deep pockets (inexplicably, since I never train or climb on pockets), weak arm half crimp the low rung with 6kg in t'other hand, and some dirty back two action. Surprising results. I should use my hangboard more.

I mean if you don’t fingerboard much and can one arm hang the bottom rung +6kg (for how long?), unless you’re trying to climb 8B this year your fingers are probably plenty strong and you’re already fingerboarding enough!

Quite (perhaps unless he's 4ft tall)
Ditto this. A fair few 8B climbers would struggle to do this.


They can probably project things more than me and/or are better at moving on rock. Always hard to know where one's climbing bottle necks lie.
This, to me, appears to be the perfect moment to sack climbing forever and dedicate yourself to the fingerboard.
As I should have done ages ago.

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2006
  • Karma: +83/-0
Good effort TomTom, there is another move on that too.

So back around.

Ha ha. Not for me there isn’t :) I’m quite looking forward to not going near Remergence for a while!!


Come on blind fig with me :)

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2006
  • Karma: +83/-0
M to Thursday. Ill with some sort of cold bug thing. Sleeping 12 hours a day
F managed 40 gentle ish minutes on my shed board
S a few easy auto belay routes
S another 30 minute board session.


Obviously bit of a rubbish week.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
M 8-10 sets 7/3 repeaters, followed by autobelays at the foundry
T autobelays sets of 3 up 7a/+, down easy, back up 7a/+, core and TRX
W road run about 6km
T up at 2am to fly to Spain. Handful of routes up to 7a at Pena Roja in the afternoon
F Tarbena. Onsighted a couple of 7bs, and some 6cs. Beautiful place.
S LOclaive. Freezing until about 4 pm. Red pointed a good 7c in the sun. Tore tip off my pinky on a sharp tufa when working it in the cold.
S rest. Yoga and a brisk trot up the penon d'ifach

measles23

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 264
  • Karma: +45/-1

Picked up au pair from the airport

belaying and spotting skills essential?

Tolerance of pigs, goats, randy neighbours and fortnite-immersed yoof essential - it helps that she’s really enjoying coming to the wall with us.. Caught her training on my board yesterday!

YorkshireTea

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 40
  • Karma: +12/-0
Moving to Leicester in September (just as social opened) means I have a wall I can walk to and train now (but much further to the grit). Apart from one session at the wall and falling of daytona wall had almost 3 weeks off over Christmas, started hangboarding regularly just before and kind of keeping it up meant I came back actually feeling pretty good considering the amount of chocolate. Can really feel the hangboarding paying off and trying to stretch everyday (or at least every other)

Mon - max hangs for open crimp (bottom outer bm2000 with +4kg) and front two (nicer 2 finger pockets on bottom) and an hour on the 45 system board. Stretched after

Tues - Climbing reset section, good session with all the new v5-7s and 2/3 of the new v6+s

Wed - Back to social, nothing special. Stretched

Thurs - stretched

Fri - train up to froggatt, got long john’s  just as started spitting which felt 6a for a short arse

Sat - Social again, boulder and max hangs for 1/2 crimp and middle two

Sun - hungover session just pottering around the wall and a quick flail and the 45. Stretched after








spidermonkey09

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2815
  • Karma: +159/-4

Fri - train up to froggatt, got long john’s  just as started spitting which felt 6a for a short arse


Definitely 6a for the short. I went to uni in Leicester, theres some good esoteric trad around there but the bouldering is probably better. I never really got involved when I was there but would do so if I lived there. That said I spent a lot of time at Slawstons which is an unbelievably good venue for training trad fitness!

 Probably a suitable FB group which someone is aware of.

YorkshireTea

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 40
  • Karma: +12/-0

I went to uni in Leicester, theres some good esoteric trad around there but the bouldering is probably better.


Yeah I’ve only “moved” for uni. Definitely more of a bouldering scene, keep meaning to get out to some of it, forest rock seems especially popular. Harder to find regular trad partners but got a couple mates wanting to learn, the roost looks like a cool spot for some trad.


That said I spent a lot of time at Slawstons which is an unbelievably good venue for training trad fitness!


 Cheers I’ll check it out

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal