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Finger flexor length (Read 319 times)

douglas

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Finger flexor length
January 08, 2019, 09:45:59 pm
Hi all

Are the finger flexors forced to a shorter or longer length when holding the same hold but with the elbows at different joint angles?

I'd always assumed they were longer when you're in full lock but am not so sure now... It seems to me like its the same, based on some very simple stretches I'm doing at home.

Thanks!

duncan

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#1 Re: Finger flexor length
January 09, 2019, 08:24:51 am
The finger flexors cross the elbow joint, the superficial finger flexors are weak elbow flexors (Palastanga 4th ed. p151), so a flexed (locked off) elbow will slightly shorten them.

Wrist position has a direct and considerable influence on the length of the finger flexors. Elbow and shoulder position will have an indirect influence on the wrist position in climbing and hence length of the finger flexors. The obvious example of this is the notorious lifting elbows as forearm pump becomes terminal. This seems to be a mechanism to allow some wrist extension hence lengthen the finger flexors and eek out a little more force from them by shifting the point on the length-tension curve.

douglas

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#2 Re: Finger flexor length
January 09, 2019, 01:37:41 pm
Thanks Duncan. I've been feeling forearm tightness doing edge pull ups and wondered if it was elbow flexion but you think most likely wrist extension due.