the shizzle > beta - bouldering
Thick end of the wedge - where to start?
Don Jebus:
Wondering if anyone can clarify this for me. I've been trying thick end of the wedge recently, but i'm a little confused about where to start with my left hand. Does it need to be on the edge by the arete, or can you start on the weird sidepull ear thing further out left? Anyone now how Ned started it?
Murph:
Necro post but seemed most appropriate...
Various videos of this problem doing a stand start. For example this recent one:
But also Orrin doesn't exactly do a sit either:
https://youtu.be/kgCMzUdia-A?t=01m34s
The stand Home Cooking is 7A apparently, but there's something about block removal so maybe that's not a thing any more?
2 extra moves turns 7A into 8A or is everyone claiming 8A having themselves on?
Bradders:
I did the stand last year; still fine after the block being moved.
As far as I know they've both started in the right place in those videos, but unless you're tall you can't reach those holds without stacking pads. Tough few moves!
sirlockoff:
I cant say for sure because I am not ned but i did put in quite few sessions in the past and;
0) UKC says 'from the sit start not crouching'
1) there was no way I could start without the left crimp
2) that meant I had to stack the pads to reach it from sit start, but keep in mind I am really tall, I do remember pulling from one pad, but then the pull on was the hardest move by far on the route for me, two was ok
3) from crouched or stacked pads, it is for sure 7C/7C+ at minimum, it adds a bunch to home cooking
id steer into the territory that ned did it off stacked pads but can't confirm
Murph:
Thank you sir, yes it is a bit unclear. Sit start and sit start on 4 pads are quite different things, and if the holds are like that its understandable people are interpreting it.
There is another vid looking like the chap does it from more of a sit but can't tell what his arse is on.
https://youtu.be/N4hJ2x6KBQ0?t=03m04s
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