It's difficult to apply the 'minimum number of pads to reach the start holds' rule when one hold is a continuous feature like an arete or crack. Moo's clarification is helpful though, level with the crimp is clear enough. Also I think a sit starts need to be a sit start even if you have to stack pads to start sat down. It's non trivial to break inertia from sitting and it can be significantly easier to start from the same holds but from a crounch/kneeling/hovering start.
Quote from: Bonjoy on April 16, 2023, 11:48:30 pmIt's difficult to apply the 'minimum number of pads to reach the start holds' rule when one hold is a continuous feature like an arete or crack. Moo's clarification is helpful though, level with the crimp is clear enough. Also I think a sit starts need to be a sit start even if you have to stack pads to start sat down. It's non trivial to break inertia from sitting and it can be significantly easier to start from the same holds but from a crounch/kneeling/hovering start.I agree that full crouching is easier than arse on the ground, but its going to be very common that people simply don't have the requisite amount of foam to make the boulder safeish and also have their arse on the floor. I ran into a similar problem when I was trying Flatworld sit; I didn't have enough pads to both pad the landing for the top move and get my arse high enough so I could reach the start holds from a proper sit. In the end I was trying it from a low crouch as it was the only way, and if i'd done it I'd have considered it good.
Does it need to be on the edge by the arete, or can you start on the weird sidepull ear thing further out left?
Yeah, if Ned did it off a huge amount of foam from a full sit at 8A but it actually gets done from a crouch at 7C+ with a normal amount of pads it should be recorded as 7C+. Which also to me sounds like the better way to do the boulder, if one applies the 'if pulling your arse off the ground is the crux its a shit problem' rule
Given the problem name I think it's appropriate to climb it from wherever you want, and take the grade.