[csl]

+1 cloggy boulder was brilliant, have another wad point

[spidermonkey09]

This is just a snapshot of what I did in Oz. I climbed so many good routes out there that it is a place that will stay with me for a long time. If anyone needs any info on the climbing out ther feel free to send me a message.

A lot I recognise in there and some great memories from a few years ago! Despatched is a strong contender for the best pitch at araps I reckon, and Tasmania is just brilliant. Never gets old when people mention the totem pole and you can just casually mention you've done it!

Good effort on Serpentine. I can't wait to do that when I go back in a few years. Taipan the best crag in the world for me. HB one of the nicest blokes in climbing!

[Duncan campbell]

 Yeah I noticed your Username in the Logbooks on a lot of the routes I did.

Despatched is very good, yes! Don’t know if you did Trojan but that is also very good!

I’m sure you’ll walk up Serpentine

[Gus]

Awesome thread, chock full of pure waddage as per usual! Who’s not posted yet? Get it done!!

Just realised I missed out 2017 so might even post that on the old thread too, seeing as I’m stuck indoors suffering with New Year plague!!

2018 was a seriously primo year, I made some pretty hefty choices, jacking in a great, well paid job at The North Face to do some of the trips I’ve always dreamed about, and its been great trying to remember some of the highlights for this, so here goes…….

Best UK Boulders
“Syretts Roof” 7a, Almscliff: Done before but took me a few goes to commit and was a great reminder of how much of a tenacious little F•••er you are when you’re younger and you’ve not done something before and really want it. The first time I did this was with one really crap pad and I was climbing nowhere near as well as I am now, I remember it feeling path, it didn’t second time round!

“Mallard” and “Snellen” 7b at Stanton Lees is it called?: A lovely spot with an ace crew. The rock formations here are awesome and reminded me of going to Robin Hood’s Stride for the first time, and why I love the peak so much. pure magic! Snellen was was satisfyingly tough!!

Best UK Trad
“The Raven” E5 6a, Pabbay: Blimey, this could put you off Outer Hebrudean E5’s for life, especially when it’s as greasy and damp as sin!! (Luckily all the others are complete path!!)
Had to fight a searing flash pump on this. This was the second “dream trip” of the year that I would never have been able to do whilst still at work and it was flipping awesome, with a team of 12 nutters with the islands to ourselves, with amazingly no rain! (that sea was seriously cold though!) Me and my randomly assigned climbing partner Alex, who was a legend had an amazing time running around and getting 100 E-points, although on the last morning we were still 2 short so had to leg it to the nearest crag and knock out a very wet E2 that would have been better to DWS to be honest, especially considering I nearly fell in the soup off the first moves (which I was secretly hoping would happen as it would have been so funny/ pathetic) and Alex had to bob and weave a ralphing Fulmar!

“Cool Moon” E6 6c, Curbar: Great to put an old nemesis to bed, that starting move is sooooooo hard for non-lanksters! Did it with the side runners as it was basically dark but don’t think I’ll be going back for the sake of an E-point as it was really good fun! As Tom my belayer said as I finished off the upper moves “Excellent Behaviour”!!

“Tales of Yankee Power” E5 6a, High Tor: Basically a really bad sequence on the HVS, but great moves and climbing with a seriously thought provoking runout! Great to see Vicky cruise up on 2nd after me!

Best UK Sport/ DWS
“Spacewalk” 7b, The Promenade: Bit of a nice surprise in the midst of some slightly same-ey bolt clipping and a great, steep greasy struggle with that flash pump rearing its lactic head again! Highly recommended and only a nip around the corner from some of the UK’s best DWS such as……

“Privateer” 7b/E6 6b, Connor Cove: Woooohooo this was absolutely mega, and like all the best DWS’s forced a big splashdown right from the very top on the first go. There really is nothing like that feeling of larning through the air for slightly too long, only to be caught by the nice soft soup! #getinthesea

“Clone Wars” 7b, Hodge Close Quarry: Well well well, the Lake District has a DWS scene! Massive big up to Gresh for developing this venue (and the loan of his boat!) and what a summer to do it! This is the harder of the two “7b’s” and although it feels sketchy and that you’re climbing over/ towards a ledge, its actually so deceptively steep that you’re fine. The whole “access the routes by boat” admin here which you initially think will be a right peck, is actually totally fine and fun as there’s no tide or waves, so its really easy with a basic cheap boat! A grand day out!!!

Best 3 Routes Abroad:
“La Moule Geante” 7b, Seynes: What a way to start 2018! After an outrageously seshy and hedonistic “Gite Rave” in Fontainebleau (with the first tune of 2018 being “Shoenberg” by marmion from The Real Think of course” a week in the South of France with an ace chilled crew was just the ticket and really reminded me of how great and relaxing it is down there!

“Blocage Violent” 7b++++++, Ceuse: Does it get much better than this (or harder for 7b+???) My first trip to Ceuse with Andi T was for a whole week! with our training consisting of some traversing in The Churnet Valley. Needless to say I was well short of the minerals for this bad boy that trip. This time around, I had 3 full weeks so thought it would be a formality, however Ceuse is never that straightforward and on my first effort I gained a bad pocket pulling forearm injury (not ideal in Ceuse!)
so this had to be left alone until the end of the trip (and when I’d learned to use my weak as sin front 2 fingers instead of middle 2!!)
When I did it for the first time it was everything an ascent should be, i.e.. I don’t think I’ve ever been as pumped, from about 1/4 of the way up all the way to the chains, just pissing myself at how pumped and shambles I was. Absolute magic!!

Makach Walou” 7c+, Ceuse: This was special as it’s one of Vicky my girlfriend’s harder redpoints, so it was great to share the experience, although it felt a damn site more tame than Blocage!. Berlin Wall and Ceuse on the whole can be am odd, annoyingly serious place (I think maybe because everyone’s ego’s are taking a hit and there’s a bit of time pressure to get on routes due to available shade, queues etc). That said we found that if you just smile, talk to people, don’t take it seriously (and basically don’t be a knob) it can actually be really fun as well as meeting some cool cats!

Australia:
As per Duncan, I couldn’t really not put a few Ozzy extras in, so instead of foreign boulders, here’s some highlights from down under…

Best 3 Grampians routes:
Despite a serious amount of quality here, there’s 3 that really stand aloft:
“Serpentine” 29/8a? Taipan Wall: It’s quite a thing to be able to say “that’s THE best route I’ve ever done”, normally its “ONE OF the best” but Serpentine is just it! It’s got everything, including a mild terror factor that always keeps you on your toes, even when you’re cruising, and is just genuinely amazing! So psyched I got to experience this and I reckon I got even more out of Duncan’s ascent, right after me, than mine! Such good scenes followed by a 15metre victory whip and a celebratory party that night in Natimuk!

“Orinoco Flow” 25, E5/6? The Lost World: Recommended by none other than “HB” himself personally, aswell as Hazel Findlay who proclaimed it “the best trad route she’d ever done!!!!” we just had to go and do this one! I had to go and look at a photograph to check, but it is actually 45 degrees overhanging, on f**king trad gear!!!! So so good, and like all routes of impeccable quality, give you an unforgettable experience, including the sweatiest conditions of the trip, the most pumped I have ever been up to that point (this was pre Ceuse trip!!) and a massive insight whipper into space, leaving me totally destroyed and unable to go back up the route that day! Mega!

“Archimedes Principle” 25, E4/5 6b? : Yet again, I’d had this route hyped up to me ALOT! but it really did meet expectations. Unfortunately due to others at the crag that day (probably the only busy day at Eureka ever! doh!) we had to do it with the gear in, but it felt fully onsight and I was so fit by then that placing the gear would have been pretty steady I reckon. The climbing was incredible and unique, and once the definite crux was dispatched I had a huge grin on my chevy chase all the way to the top, which was still quite a distance!!

Best 3 Arapiles Routes:
It’s a bit harder to separate individual Arapiles routes, as they’re all so good and packed with experience and great memories, but I’ll have a go:

“The Undertaker” 25, E5 6c: Far from the best routes at Arapiles, but a great experience and an even bigger laugh, with me and Duncan sn**gering like schoolboys at our generally shambles efforts, which I think left a full crab of wires hanging from the route not once but twice!! The “Jug of disappointment” is so well named! The great thing about this route was that it really instilled in us a fun ethic of going onsight and ground up always, but then once that prize is gone, just get it done and move on, as there’s so much quality to do!

“Kachoong” 22, E1 5b: Yet another route that really lived up to the (considerable) hype, and made me wish I was climbing at that grade! So good and soooo fun! Although I’m not sure how much longer that flake will last. Gulp!

“Mind Arthritis” 27, 7c: This was a corker, sparingly protected by bolts and with some truly minging crux crimpers! It’s set in an awesome position, high on a ledge overlooking the rest of Arapiles and the campsite, oh and I’ve only just remembered the runout after the crux. I think me and Dunc reckoned it to be 20m!!?? Definitely not one you’d want to screw up!


Top Spankings
“K & S Special” E6 6a, Mingulay: Aaaaawww Maaaaaaan, I was so psyched for this, after watching Ben Silvestres solid efforts on it I got fired up for one o those flash attempts where you actually have no clue what to do. Nevertheless I was psyched and feeling OK. Sadly it wasn’t to be and I pulled a big hold off, ripped a load of gear and went flying. Waaaaa. After this point I completely lost my head and tip toed to the top hanging on not quite good enough gear with my tail between my legs!

“Herman Borg’s Basic Pulley Slippage” 7b+/c, S3! Connor Cove: Uuurgh! sketchy scenes trying this on my own. I abed down and checked out some hold as it’s pretty spicy and basically above the ledge at times. Had a few goes and dropped the last hold twice then sacked it in aid of self- preservation!

“Notorious BLG” E7/8/9 6c/7a? : Flippin eco! A terrifying insight into Vick’s brother Pete’s skills! Really dangerous and Really hard!  The footage of Pete on the first ascent is outrageous!

“Any hard Sport Climbing”: I’ve done so much climbing this year, but absolutely no training, so there’s always a price to pay. Trying Predator and Austrian Oak after 2 months of basically trad climbing was a good example!



Hope that’s not too long and rambley for you guys!! Keep up the psyche and keep ‘em comin!!!!

[ali k]

After a freakishly good trad year in 2017, when I did a huge number of dream routes in a single season that I thought would take me years, 2018 has always felt like a pretty poor follow-up. Training was inconsistent and patchy, and motivation always pretty up and down (especially when I got a few niggly injuries and couldn't really be arsed to do anything to try and fix them).

Maybe that's natural sometimes after a good run of form? Or just a case of me lacking stuff that properly inspired me, especially locally? (I definitely miss the times when I was younger and would be happy just climbing any old shit piece of rock and be psyched for it!).

Anyway, hopefully I can find stuff to get psyched for this year and keep motivated. This thread has been good for inspiration and thinking back on stuff I've done makes me think it wasn't such a disappointing year. So here goes...

BEST UK SPORT
Kestrel (7c+), Minchin Hole Just a great experience climbing in this unique narrow cleft on the Gower coast, and managing to stay dry as the rain poured down over the back of me. I love the weird hidden little places like this that climbing takes you to!

Helvetia (8b+), Shipwreck The only route I really got psyched to try and do all year, and actually trained for. Not sure if I was more pleased with doing the route or with learning a few new tricks in the process which could have helped with my climbing years ago (e.g. antihydral actually works. Like actually works. It's like fucking magic. Oh and repeaters - people always talked about them but I never got round to doing any...they actually work too!!)

Vennerne (7c+/8a), Shipwreck Had saved this for the last few years thinking it might be a good one to try and flash at some point in the future. Watched loads of people on it over the years so I had a good idea what to do at the crux but the top half was climbed mainly on the fly, and after doing Helvetia I felt totally relaxed and in the flow (I hate that bloody word). Climbing this and Helvetia on a day I was being paid to be at work also made it even more satisfying!

BEST UK TRAD
Lord of the Flies, Cromlech Almost wrote this off when we arrived to find a big wet streak all the way down the wall, but it dried off enough and I just couldn't hold myself back from trying it. Might have been the first ascent of the year as there was zero chalk and I was cleaning cobwebs and dirt/moss out of a lot of the pockets but that just made it even more satisfying and adventurous. Had the famous Fawcett quote going through my head the whole way. Girlfriend also really enjoyed seconding it which made it even more special and we watched the FA video afterwards to put it in context for her.

Pretty Girls Make Graves, Cwm Glas Bach I had absolutely no expectations of onsighting this when I set off but somehow managed to scrape my way up it pumped out of mind from the first piece of gear all the way to the top. A proper fight, but one that I'll remember for a long time.

My Piano, Nesscliffe A great weekend with loads of cool people at the crag, loads of psyche, and perfect conditions (after two aborted visits where rain stopped play this felt even sweeter). Perfect beta from Ramon meant I could flash this beautiful route. What a line!

**SPECIAL MENTION ALSO TO TWO AVON CLASSICS**
Bold as Love and Pink Ginsane Two more routes I've been saving for years to try and onsight. Both brilliant. Especially cool experience on Pink Ginsane climbing it in afternoon sunshine with the shadow following me up the wall.

BEST DWS
Soft Cell, Berry Head Just look at the rock! It's like a slice of Diablo brought back to Blightie.

Mark of the Beast, Lulworth Yarding around on jugs on a 45deg wall over turquoise water in the middle of a heat wave. Fucking cool way to spend a day!

Adrenochrome, Lulworth Scared myself on the first try up this by getting winded when I back slapped after missing the low dyno, which shook me up as it's really low to the water at that point. But gave myself a talking to and ended up having a great fun weekend going G/U with what seemed like the whole of Sheffield and Bristol. One annoying move in the middle where I kept falling lead me to compromise on ethics and I decided to come back and drop a rope down it. This turned out to be a waste of time as it's so steep I couldn't stay in to the rock and the bolts are in the wrong place to work the moves anyway, so that served me right!! (**The bolts should really be chopped to remove temptation to do what I did!**) Later in the year I went back with an ace Bristol crew and, despite nearly dropping a move very low down, battled my way up it by the skin of my teeth first try of the day. Also ended the day with a roast dinner which was waiting for me when I got home. Doesn't get much better than that!

[kingholmesy]

You’re always going to have ups and downs, but that doesn’t sound like too bad a year to me Ali!

[Orrincoley]

Top 3 Boulders UK

Careless Torque - Stanage - It's been said enough times, but I'll say it again. Potentially the best in the country.
Voyager - Burbage - Iconic.
The Ace - Stanage - Special purely because it was one of the first hard climbs I ever saw. And obviously, classic. Also did it in the same day as Careless.

Top 3 Boulders Abroad

Electroboogie - Magic Wood - Just amazing, powerful and damn that pinch is cool. Went from being barely able to do any individual moves on the first session, to suddenly flowing through the moves on the third.
Dark Sakai - Magic Wood - I love rubbish caves. Just find them great fun. I'd been spanked on this the year before and got really demotivated by not finishing it. So it was a good feeling to complete it.
Karma - Fontainebleau - Also Iconic. And a really good experience to work out the subtle moves and get the double send with Billy.

Top 3 New Boulders/Link Ups

Drug Fueled Wizardry Sit Start - Churnet - Often wondered if I could add a sit to the stand I put up last year. Turns out it works and is quite a cool board-esque problem.
Tyler's Relentless Onslaught - Forest Rock - Rubbish cave link ups give me a worrying amount of satisfaction. But this one was good, because I thought it was beyond me at the time.
Ascension of Evil - Forest Rock - When you run out of things at your local crag so start reversing traverses you can come up with some surprisingly hard new challenges for yourself.

Top Spankings

Fat Lip Sit - Raven Tor - 10 plus sessions on this and I feel like I should have done it several times over by now. No clue why I can't do it, I just fall off it. Over and over again...
Yoghurt Hypnotist - Rowtor - I did flash this, but I've never deserved a top less in my life, I spent what must have been nearly 5 minutes crawling my way through the top out, boxed out of my mind, elbows higher than is physically possible. Feeling like I was going to fall every few seconds. And I can't help but think my friends must have been having the time of their lives watching me make a total fool of myself.

Honourable Mentions

Riverbed - Magic Wood - In all fairness this should replace Dark Sakai on my top 3 abroad, but I love caves too much. Sent on a supposed rest day and was always something I didn't believe I could do.
Rainbow Rocket - Fontainebleau - One of those climbs I always dreamed of doing just because it looked so fun.
In Your Honour Sit Start - Ogwen - beautiful location. Awesome thin, technical, powerful climbing, can't ask for a lot more.

[Coops_13]

Pretty much only bouldering this year so will focus on that:

Top three UK boulders

Underhand 7B+ Almscliff Nice to finish this off at the start of the year, probably the best problem I've done at the Cliff.

Picnic Sarcastic Direct Sit-start 7B+ Bowderstone Even better than the normal version, really nice moves.
Stand start in this video:

Figure of Eight 7B+ Tom's Roof Might get puntered for putting this on here but that last move is just so so good.
Last problem in video:

Top three boulders abroad

Supernova 7C Magic Wood Simply amazing. Perfect moves in my style with that magical feeling of effortless when it all came together.


Blown Away 7B Magic Wood Such a good problem (and maybe 7B+). Had to fight quite hard to get this done.

Aeroline 7B Albarracin Really nice problem with lovely slopers.
From 04:10 here:

Top four others

WYSIWYG 7b+ Kilnsey Best sport route I did in the UK, my fitness was so bad it was a full-on sprint!

Empire of the Sun 7b Anstey's Cove Nice to put this to bed, felt straightforward when it went.

Colgao 7b Caimari, Mallorca Really nice climb of two contrasting sections. Great crimpy lower wall and burly upper tufa section.

Transexual 7b, Cala Barques Project line of the trip, really nice moves going across the width of the cave

Top spankings

T Crack 7B Cratcliffe Fell off the top several more times...

Malc's Arete 7B Torridon Such an amazing boulder and a shame I couldn't stick the top move. A lovely reason to come back however

La Guillotina 7A+ Albarracin This problem gave me a bruised heel which affected me for two-thirds of the year...

[AMorris]

I have done a fair bit o bouldering in the hills this year so I feel like I might have something to contribute. As a card carrying punter, naturally my full spankings list is long, so I have included the abridged version.

Top Welsh

Pie Shop 7C, the pass - A surprising torch lit new years eve ascent which I prefaced with "don't worry, I wont even be able to pull on and then we can go home" and managed to make fairly short work of it. A nice bit of validation for how much training I have done this year.

Homage Traverse 7B, Clogwyn y Bustach - I don't usually like long traverses, but this one was a delight. I also found it flatters you with good feet, making you feel like an endurance wad as you keep managing to pull on the miserable edges.

Incredible Shaking man SS 7A+/B, Ysgo - Absolutely superb and one of my favorites. Another tick on my lifetime list of "problems in Stick it that I might actually have a chance at".

Witches Knickers 7B+ (ish), the Pass - Not a classic, but a foot slip pulling on, voiding the flash, then quickly pulling on again and doing it was a totally unexpected and memorable ascent. Great moves too.

Caseg Arete 6A/B, Caseg Fraith - Possibly my favorite low grade problem in North Wales. There was some amount of cruel satisfaction had from watching a few capable friends get shut down on it and deem it totally impossible 

Top Not Welsh

Purely Belter 7C (or is it 8A?  ), Shaftoe - I hit the lip on 4th try, then spent 40 minutes learning how to top out. Glorious day and lovely moves.

The Egg arete 6A+, Cratcliffe - best grit schooling money can buy and one of my favorite problems ever.

Jerry's Traverse 7B, Cratcliffe - walked round the corner and flashed after my lessons on the egg.

Things other than boulders

San Melas E3 5c, Roaches - First time I have placed gear in years, first fall on gear. Absolutely superb.

Flying Buttress Direct HVS 5b, Popular - I don't think I could enjoy a route as much as this one, glorious day, amazing few days on the grit.

Lockwoods Chimey Diff, Clogwyn y Bustach - NYE ascent, 8 man team, wet. Squeezing up the chimney at 12 am singing Auld Lang Syne with a few mates was memorable to say the least!

Spankings

Flick of the Wrist 7C+, Tany - Actually got very close to this t'other day, feeling stronger than I ever have on it. Last year though... this thing was a pest. Why has everyone pissed up this.

The Peapod E13 8a, Curbar - Had to learn how to back and forth, and shit myself with the effort. Got my hands over the ledge OS but was so utterly spent that I came off with much gnashing of teeth. So much fun and probably the hardest I have ever tried at anything ever.

New Noise 8A, Tany - Quite how a human being executes the first move I will never know. Holding the position after pulling on felt limit to me.

Badgers in the mist 7C, Rhiw Goch - After flashing White Rider and managing not to split a tip on Moria I was confident I could give this one a good crack. Felt absolutely desperate and way harder than anything I have done at the grade. What are you guys eating?!?

Fear of a Slopey planet 7A+, the Pass - maybe it was cos I was a tad hungover, maybe it was cos it was the end of the day, but never have I been completely shut down on a problem I thought I might have a chance at flashing. Priceless reality check.

Best climbing year so far with some cracking time spent in the hills. This year has already started strong too, with a couple of gorgeous days in Tany and Nant y Fedw.

[Smith42]

Thought I’d had a rubbish year, certainly a poor year for succeeding but actually managed some good days too. 
Interestingly my best bouldering days were when I cruised things and my best sport days were when I had to fight hard. 


Top 3 Boulder Problems
Clamper and Long Reach SDS at Shafto. Long Reach sitter looks rubbish but turns out to be really cool. Managed both on the same day after failing on them for years.
Minidigit best 6A in Yorkshire? Who’d have thought thumb sprag off a pebble would be required on a 6A. (same day also on-sighted Rachel’s box and repeated TFThunderbolt and Black Chipper Arête)

Top 3 Trad
Friday night; Titus – started at 9 after driving to lakes from Newcastle, managed to get another route in and still made last orders at Wainwrights before bivi under stars.  The routes not bad either!
Saturday; Langdale enchainment of Bilberry Buttress, Mendes, North West Arête, Kiplin Groove, Capella and Golden Slipper. So many quality pitches, space walking on the top pitch of Kiplin Groove and running out the last pitch of Golden Slipper, no gear, aching feet, strong wind, stand out.
Sunday; Side Walk and Eliminate A on Dow Crag. 

Even in a weekend of three star routes, Eliminate A stands out. Unbelievable route, great rock, absorbing climbing and OH MY GOD exposure not usually found outside the Dolomites.  I’ll be heading back up to Dow this year.

Top 3 Sport Routes Abroad
Titus Blues 6b+, Immaculate intricate wall climbing, the only route I repeated during a two week trip to Kalymnos.
Kerveros 7a, 30m stamina routes are not normally my thing but the guide book description says Best 7a on Kaly and its probably not far wrong.
Eros 7b+, great bouldery moves, had to skip 4th bolt, could have been close to decking if id not made it then easier but cool tufa climbing to top.  Still had to fight to top even with knee bar rest, mainly accumulation of numerous days on leaving arms empty. 

Top 3 Sport Routes
Guided Muscle 7b, first RP of the year, though it would lead on to start of the season but had real mental battle this year with heights.
The Measure of Things 6c+, Big fight to on-sight this, great little crag when Kilnsey is busy, deserves more attention. 
Moonchild 6c+, another big fight to on-sight this at the end of the day. Pumped from the first move but somehow got up.

Top 3 Spankings.
Top spanking was on the North Face Les Drus.  Not sure what was worst, the grade IV chimney pitch, the aid climbing up waterfall groove after Fissure Lambert or the epic retreat the day after lighting strikes and snow at the bivi. It took a while to process this trip!

Winter 2018 Spanking, missed most of last winter bouldering season training for the Eiger attempt in March which we had to cancel due to conditions.  Went to Margalef instead at Easter and it rained for a week.  A WHOLE WEEK!

Sport spanking, something didn’t click with my sport climbing head this season and didn’t get any better no matter what I tried.  Had meltdowns on Yosemite Wall, Sticky Wicket, Haslam, Montgronyeta (Margalef), Tufa King Pumped (Kalymnos), Anchovy Madonna. Not sure what was going on as in between these routes I generally functioned as normal and even went through some serious stuff in the Alps.
 
Not a vintage year but still some good stuff done.

[Doylo]

Badgers in the mist 7C, Rhiw Goch - After flashing White Rider and managing not to split a tip on Moria I was confident I could give this one a good crack. Felt absolutely desperate and way harder than anything I have done at the grade. What are you guys eating?!?

Have you tried the right hand up round the arête method? Miles less burly than left hand up and fine for 7c. I can’t do left hand up.

[tomtom]

2018: Its all been about the lime…

The grit season hasn’t been great in spring or autumn 18. Generally unreliable despite a couple of decent weeks when the beast from the east was blowing in. I managed some good problems in the Lancs Quarries and up at Blackstone edge, but I’m struggling to think of a new Peak 7 I did on Grit in 2018… OK – so I did Stall at Gibb Tor – which is nearly highlight number 1… but not quite.

So it was all about the lime… a hot dry summer coinciding with a slow work time of year for me meant a great season. But before it started properly – I was able to do Highlight problem #1 which was the start to Caviar.



I’d spent quite a bit of time last summer working this – and it went quite quickly into the season. Low water levels (helped by the construction work for the HEP scheme) probably helped and it finally went. Very very happy. For me its quite a struggle from the ground up – deceptively overhanging, technical, core intensive there is no let up until you get the largeish finishing hold (and it’s a battle to hold that).

Fairly soon after that I had a few trips up to Woodwell – and managed to get Highlight #2 Rigpa (7B) and the sit (7B+) done. This for me was a quite an achievement as I’ve never been close to these – and better climbing (and a little stronger) led me to get up these. Really pleased at how to work out how to do them for myself and for my shape/size. Had some proper really close efforts then powering out and having to wait until the next session attempts here – so it was particularly sweet to get these – and at a beautiful spring time venue


As summer came I was able to get away and spend quite a bit of time at Griffs and its (a) proximity to Manchester (its only 45-50 min rather than an hour to the grit) (b) near to the parking :D and (c) it’s a nice spot that’s in the shade for a good part of the day – made it a great place to go. I had a great summer there – met a good few people and enjoyed the quiet times and when there were a few more folk there. Bovine took a while to get done – thanks Ted for the dropped right knee method – and I was chuffed to manage to eek out my 30-40 second stamina to get Griffs > Bovine which is Highlight #3 or 2018. I really liked the moves on this – how it was right at the limit of what I could string together before it all fell apart. I had a couple of sessions before this send where it all felt so good, so in control before I slipped off something and it went wrong… often I could only really get 3-4 attempts before I was done in.



Griffs also led me to Spanking #1 – Ovine. I don’t know whether I love or hate hanging that slopey crimpy edge and wondering if I’m going to fall off and maybe ream my hamstring (as Dolly and Nai know about) or sail effortlessly (ha!) upwards. Its fucking hard – its got to be harder than 7B – but there you go. Apparently you can pinch the slopey crimpy raily thing – but not if you are weak like me 😊

2018 was also the year I started going to to Anston quite a lot. Why I’ve never been before I don’t know…. But once you leave the paths, and learn to never touch the water in the streams it’s a great place. Got to thank Nai and Dolly & Plattsy for introducing me to its delights. I started on the bullet/ebola area and managed Fine Art, Colt, Blind Bat, Last Stand (nearly a highlight – cool moves). I also REALLY enjoyed (notable mention #1) ALL of Apprentice Wall. The Prow is superb – and I loved the cookie. I even did some sort of new link up (the Wookie) which I thought was 7A+ until a couple of other people tried it and thought it was 6C :D Great bit of rock Apprentice Wall – and I like being near the railway line (does anyone else count the trucks?) being able to hear the locals walking their trophy dogs (“NO TYSON”) yet knowing they were not going to come and bother you…

Anston was also scene of my biggest spanking of 2018. BetaBlocker 7A. “Its piss” said Nai “I did it in a couple of go’s – felt 6C”. “Easy that one” said Dolly. Could I get up it – could I fuck. 7A my arse. Now a tall person blaming height is not an easy excuse to pass off – but I seemed too tall to do it the short way (too bunched) and somehow not able to get my body into the right place to rock over the lip and upwards. Eventually – in November I managed to figure out a way of doing it – and having worked it in overlapping sections went of the send – and ended up twanging my knee (which is still giving me gyp)…


(I also failed miserably lots of times on Beretta – but we won’t mention that…. :D )

Weather and which crags I could get to etc.. all mean that Lime season really spanned from 25th Feb (Blind Bat) through to November (BetaFUCKINGBlocker failure)… which is most of the year really. But – I want to mention a couple of trips to Blackstone edge (one with 3T and a couple on my own) as I think it’s a great bouldering venue – often overlooked – with a concentration of great problems in all grades. Notable mention #2 goes to “The ladys not for Gurning” a 7B scrittle based mantle fest. Mention mantle to me and I normally turn the other way and find another crag/problem – but this one that I first tried because everything else was too damp or windy got under my skin and I LOVED it..



Trad/Sport – eh? 2018 was another year where I never tied on… I did use my harness though – for some weighted deadhangs 😊

Thanks 2018. Its been a good one - juggling childcare and climbing has been tricky - but its probably been my best year yet for climbing. Certainly on the lime.

[Alex-the-Alex]

This thread is brilliant every year. Ive not done one before, but thought id add my print to the wall this time. Especially if were celebrating spankings. More Scottish seasoning too.

Small Rocks

Nipple Attack – Loch Buie. The best of the lot but one of the last before wanky tennis elbow set in. I think this boulder is all back to front in some topos leading to a bit of confusion, but whatever it is its amazing. Possibly the best problem I have ever climbed and ive climbed Minidigit.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/44969897005/in/dateposted-public/

Haven at Reiff in the woods. Its a well good place and this was an unexpected flash. Had a brew on the terrace with a nice couple after too. Good work on Red Handed Gaz that looks terrifying.

Something on the Brandy Stone. 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/45934946564/in/dateposted-public/

Synapse Groove at Kishorn wins best 5+ problem ive done anywhere.

Struggling to think of other stand out ones I actually got up, but Hook and Go sit was great at Loch Buie, The Flood at Reiff in the Woods too, and Turnbull snr.’s arête – Range – at Plantation Crack was also 3 stars.

Big Rocks

Angel Face and Beinn Eighe in a bivvy – the perfect long weekend with superpsyched ukc blind date Tom. We almost fell out cos Toms a machine and I was barely bouldering fit, but it turned into a dream trip. Sumo and Angel face were the highlights. The second pitch of Angel Face is incredible.

Bloodlust Direct – Sheigra trip with Ollie including surf at Sandwood and swimming across to the Buchaille. Bloodlust was so much fun! Pure enjoyment hauling up on buckets above a rrrrraging sea.

The Pincer on Garbh Bheinn just pips any of the Barra routes.  Its a mega line on a mega cliff and the moves up and into the groove section flow like water. Abbed to strip it after Nick got caught by the Scottish summer combo of cold and midges...

Nu Roots

Peatbog Faerie – the best of the three up the Kishorn Bog Wall.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/39795658834/in/dateposted-public/

Pyramid Scheme  - Plantation Crack – a silly sit start to the lovely pyramid arête. The rock is so good around that area!

Pictnocline – Ardgour – More lush rock with some really nice stave like ripples going across the face.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/41924528272/in/dateposted-public/

Spankers

Loads – The Universal (again), Malcs (again), Big Fish, the whole of Earl Crag (Dyno Wall hurt the ego most), some unholy rotting sewerpipe at Sheigra, another thrashing on Lost in Thought Lost in Time. But the most enjoyable spanking was on Quality Street up Glen Nevis with Nick. That really was top quality.

Starting 2019 with some elbow rehab but hoping for bigger and better this year 

[Will Hunt]

Is Dyno Wall the thing just right of Sloping Beauty?

[Fiend]

Minidigit on 3 lists? Almost

Murph, sorry, didn't see your reply - thanks Yes Pfalz is ace, I love it, might aim to go back in Autumn to get to some bird-banned crags

[AMorris]

Badgers in the mist 7C, Rhiw Goch - After flashing White Rider and managing not to split a tip on Moria I was confident I could give this one a good crack. Felt absolutely desperate and way harder than anything I have done at the grade. What are you guys eating?!?

Have you tried the right hand up round the arête method? Miles less burly than left hand up and fine for 7c. I can’t do left hand up.

I couldn't get the body position to make that way work, so I sacked it in in favour of the left hand up (which I also felt miles off sticking). I think I am just a bit weak for it really!

[Alex-the-Alex]

Is Dyno Wall the thing just right of Sloping Beauty?

No, i just looked that up. thats a 7B. This is the 5+ by handy andys. Really the mistake was thinking i could pop in to earl for my first time for an easy fix/quick few hours mileage on the way south. I wasnt prepared.. Someone pointed me to Warm Up Arete before i left though which made me feel better after. That was really nice.

[Will Hunt]

Oh, fuck me, I know which one you mean now. Yes. Nails!

[Kingy]

A late entry, have been out in Espana so here goes..

Top three boulder problems, UK

Mutton Busting 8A - Griff's Buttress, Blackwell Dale, Peak
Mint Sauce RH 8A - Griff's Buttress, Blackwell Dale, Peak
Candyman Sit 7C+ - Squirrel Buttress, Peak

Top three boulder problems, abroad

Nil

Top three trad routes/solos UK

Only had one day tradding this year:

The Cumbrian E5 6b - Esk Buttress, Lakes - stunning
Humdrum E3 5c - Esk Buttress, Lakes

Top three sport routes UK

Dalliance 8b+ - Kilnsey
Love Amongst the Butterflies 8b - The Cornice
The Fall 8a - Lammergeyer Buttress, Rubicon

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Just Do It 8c+ - Smith Rock
Time to Power 7b+ - Smith Rock
Catalyst 7b - Smith Rock

Top three new routes/prolems put up

Toadal Recall 2.0 8a+ - Rebooted version of the popular classic on Malham upper tier since the demise of the crucial resting flake. Don't know if anybody has done it since I did this in March? Climbs well

Top Spankings

Progress 8c+ - Kilnsey. Got bouted in the heat of summer but battered it down over many weeks and, finally stuck the RP crux before the wetness in September. Roll on next season!

[r-man]

Another fun year on the rocks. Autumn spent falling off hard projects and never quite sticking any of them, but the first half of the year was peppered with great trips, classics, and some good FAs.

Around and About

The Big Woof, 7C+ - This was the big one this year, an awesome 15 move roof problem in the Lakes. Great tensiony and sequency moves on good rock in a top location. Dawid and I also developed a steep boulder with another 20 ish short power problems. Keeping details secret for now - will probably post vids/pics when Greg's new guidebook comes out - it's all in there.

Ratatouille, 7C - First trip to Crafnant, what an ace venue. Wanted to get on the Wonderwall boulder, but rain forced us under Rat Roof. By the time the rain had stopped, we had figured out an extension start which added some good climbing, if a bit lowball. Took a few tries to link, but worth it. Need to go back for all the Wonderwall problems...



St Bees trips - Two different trips, with different teams and different vibes. Yellow Desert Scream was about the only thing I did on a hot weekend, but well worth it. Later in the year, Clash of the Titans in a stolen evening session after storm, but with waves still raging. One of those problems that feels improbable until it isn't. The next day was an Arkle-led descent down Piers Gill. Bonkers, wet, very cold, very long. Restored climbing psyche by returning to St Bees the next day and climbing a few great 7Bs, best of which was The Arete (found a really satisfying static sequence).

Lancashire

Esoterrorist, 7B+ - Gave Mike the tour of a newly developed Calderdale spot. Highlight of a great day was doing the full sitter to this problem, which is brilliant. Great holds and great moves. Hopefully finish developing this area in 2019.



The Hurly Burly, 7B+ - Another area with more to come back for. Lancs regulars will recognise. Sadly it's rarely dry, but this was the best of the new problems. Unassuming, but involving. Undercuts and smears, lots of tension fighting.



William the Bear, 7B+ - A new one at Healey Nab. Spotted this over a decade ago, but the seepy nature of this boulder has thwarted attempts. This year things were different. Powerful fun.



Space Ghetto, 7B - One from Ease Gill, a really unusual riverbed venue. Started developing this place after an internet tip off, then bumped into Sam Lawson who had started developing the same week. Luckily it seemed we had both focussed on different things. (Well done to Sam - he went on to develop loads more - most of the harder stuff at the crag is his). I thought this was really good - super smooth limestone compression to a real fight past the lip. The only decent hold is the final jug!




Thunder, 7B - A Brownstones highball and Mark Leach/Paul Pritchard special. I don't get down to Brownstones much these days, having done most things there yonks ago. But for this one I wanted loads of pads and spotters, which finally happened last year. Took a while to figure out the powerful start, then managed to keep it together, mostly (!) in control on tiny edges near the top. Exciting all the way to the top, and beyond!

Top Spankings
Tried a lot of hard projects at obscure places. Repeatedly. With all my made up grades in my head... There's a one move 7C+ pinch thing. There's an 8A lowball sloper traverse which I should try again now it's not summer. Quarried slopers though - not anything with actual friction. There's a really good 7B highball clampy arete at another moorland Calderdale spot which I've fallen off the top off - need to get back and finish, but friends with extra pads are required. There's a thing I've tried on a rope repeatedly, super thin and probably 8A+ (I wish it was a bit easier). There's the thing I've been sieging for years, that I can't even remember if I've sieged this year, but even if I didn't, I must have done. There's that thing with the mono undercling, just one move that keeps spitting me off. There's that other thing in the same place with the huge 7C move after a 7B start. So yeah. Lots of spankings.

[Bradders]

7C+
awesome
15 move
roof
tensiony
sequency
good rock
top location

This sounds amazing. Pleeeeaaase can I/we have some details?!

[Fiend]

Dolph's got some serious tension on the Esoterrorist 

[r-man]

  Sorry Bradders, but I've kept it quiet since early last year, so only a few months now and all will be revealed. Keen to do my bit to help promote Greg's forthcoming masterpiece. It's not one of the quick hit crags, so you'll probably want to wait till later in the year anyway.

[Fiend]

Hyped for the Lakes guide too. Running out of loo-roll here at Fiend crib so the rockfax will save me having to head out to Asda.

[Bradders]

You big tease. Psyched!