[Wood FT]

  allez benga c’mon

[ericinbristol]

allez benga c’mon

[mrjonathanr]

That's cool.  Keep cranking- who knows what you'll achieve? 

[ericinbristol]

Thanks Jonathan, Yes it really is mind-expanding when something seems totally beyond you - then you realise that you'll be able to do it - then (I imagine in this case, we shall see) you think hey it wasn't that hard, so I must be able to get up something a lot harder.

[Andy W]

It's halfway through the year so I hope it's not too late to join in. I've been registered with ukb for years but only just started posting now.

My key goal for 2019 is my first 8a sport route. I'm just about to turn 58 and frankly the idea of me getting up an 8a seemed totally implausible. I had always been a trad climber (chuffer?) and had never tried redpointing.

Seven years ago I had a session on Liquid Crystal in Cheddar and could do almost none of the moves. In fact I couldn't even hold on to loads of the holds. Totally shut down.

In the intervening period I have done lots of sport 7s and so just doing more felt okay but also so what. Got back on Liquid Crystal recently and took four sessions to do all the moves (though one of them is low percentage) and a long link. So it feels like a matter of time now and I am psyched out of my tiny mind!

I chose Liquid Crystal as my first 8a, I did it within a month of my 50th birthday. I hadn't done a sport route for a decade or more, just bouldered. It's a very bouldery route, with a definite crux. Is it a good route choice for you? I guess if you are super motivated for it though that will help. Good luck!

[monkoffunk]

Is that the bit between clip 2 and 3?

[Andy W]

Is that the bit between clip 2 and 3?

Yep

[ericinbristol]

It's a very bouldery route, with a definite crux. Is it a good route choice for you? I guess if you are super motivated for it though that will help. Good luck!

Hi Andy. Thanks! Actually it is turning out to be a good choice for me. I got from clip 2 to the last move in one today! I was completely astonished at the progress. Unfortunately it had to be a really short session as my climbing partner had to go to work. It should go any time now. I head off on Saturday to work in Somaliland until mid July. I am desperately trying to organise work, family and belayer to get on it tomorrow morning or some point on Friday to try to send it before I go!

[ericinbristol]

Is that the bit between clip 2 and 3?

That is hard but it is no longer the crux for me as my sequence has fallen into place. Technical crux for me is the slap to the break after clip 3. Redpoint crux could turn out to be the last left hand move before clipping the top.

[Andy W]

Is that the bit between clip 2 and 3?

That is hard but it is no longer the crux for me as my sequence has fallen into place. Technical crux for me is the slap to the break after clip 3. Redpoint crux could turn out to be the last left hand move before clipping the top.

That's the move I meant, a dead point from crimps to the break.

[Bradders]

As a bit of a distraction from the demise of UKB, it seems about time for a halfway update I think!

-- >8hrs sleep every night

Getting better at this

-- tick off more from This is Yorkshire

Nope. Super close on Ben's Sit trying to squeeze it over the line in April but no dice. Few sessions on Zoo and felt like it was getting there but it kept injuring my LH ring finger. Two sessions on The Fonz (working up to Mr C), did it in overlapping halves then never went back. One session on Treebeard sans spotter and got close but crikey you need a spotter. One rushed session post training on Sole and didn't match last year's high point.

-- go sport climbing at least once

Nope.

-- 3x nemesis problems; Iron Man, Lager3 and Ribtickler

One brief session on Iron Man and hadn't gone backwards. Had one session on Lager3 and got stupid close again, then didn't go back. Can't bring myself to go and try Ribtickler again just yet.

-- better 2018 tally of 86 new problems 7A and up

65 done already! Three week trip to Rocklands accounts for over a third of those but I honestly thought the updated guidebook grades were spot on.

-- >25% of the above to be 7C and up

Totally arbitrary attempt to beat my past self this, based on 25% in both 2017 and 2018. At 35% atm (23 done, more than I've ever done before in a whole year!). No chossy link ups either, all quality independent lines. Have loved doing lots of volume. As above Rocklands gave a good boost but again didn't think anything wasn't worth the guide grade.

-- 7C on the Depot 50

Hahaha not even slightly close. Best effort was a high point on Steady Intro, dropping the penultimate move, in Feb. That's probably the hardest I've ever climbed on the Board tbh but even if I'd finished it it's still not 7C.

[Will Hunt]

As a bit of a distraction from the demise of UKB, it seems about time for a halfway update I think!

-- >8hrs sleep every night

Getting better at this

-- tick off more from This is Yorkshire

Nope. Super close on Ben's Sit trying to squeeze it over the line in April but no dice. Few sessions on Zoo and felt like it was getting there but it kept injuring my LH ring finger. Two sessions on The Fonz (working up to Mr C), did it in overlapping halves then never went back. One session on Treebeard sans spotter and got close but crikey you need a spotter. One rushed session post training on Sole and didn't match last year's high point.

-- go sport climbing at least once

Nope.

-- 3x nemesis problems; Iron Man, Lager3 and Ribtickler

One brief session on Iron Man and hadn't gone backwards. Had one session on Lager3 and got stupid close again, then didn't go back. Can't bring myself to go and try Ribtickler again just yet.

-- better 2018 tally of 86 new problems 7A and up

65 done already! Three week trip to Rocklands accounts for over a third of those but I honestly thought the updated guidebook grades were spot on.

-- >25% of the above to be 7C and up

Totally arbitrary attempt to beat my past self this, based on 25% in both 2017 and 2018. At 35% atm (23 done, more than I've ever done before in a whole year!). No chossy link ups either, all quality independent lines. Have loved doing lots of volume. As above Rocklands gave a good boost but again didn't think anything wasn't worth the guide grade.

-- 7C on the Depot 50

Hahaha not even slightly close. Best effort was a high point on Steady Intro, dropping the penultimate move, in Feb. That's probably the hardest I've ever climbed on the Board tbh but even if I'd finished it it's still not 7C.

Good work going to Sutton, Nick. What state was it in? I'm guessing that Black Annis is covered in brambles again. I'd be up for a visit over the winter. How did you find Treebeard? I'd thought maybe I could do the top arete but I'm willing to bet that the first roof, even if relatively easy, would sap me such that I couldn't do the top. I did wonder about a half-cocked standing start - you can pull onto the lip of the arete at a good square-cut notch.

[Bradders]

That was back in April, so could have changed considerably but it all looked okay, top outs not too mossy and not heinously overgrown.

Treebeard is absolutely mega. The starting roof is easy peasy, all on jugs. That said, I did it on a rope from putting the heel in the big lip jug to the top and it felt fairly steady, but couldn't then link from the start. Think a fair bit of that was down to pure terror though

Definitely don't think it'd be cricket to pull on from the lip jug, the line comes through the roof and it's not hard at all. If you did it that way you'd look back and think "I wish I'd done the start".

Very keen to get back so will be in touch when it cools down!

[kingholmesy]

I know there’s still nearly three weeks of the year to go, but realistically I’m not now going to achieve any more of my aims for this year.  I therefore thought I’d get the ball rolling on the review of this year’s successes and failures:

1. Manage elbow niggles and avoid other injuries, get weight down a bit (sub 11 1/2 st) and stretch at least once a week.

Broke my arm pretty badly in March trying to onsight Demolition at Sennen (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33153).

6 weeks in plaster, another 6 of no climbing, then 3 months of slowly building up strength again basically meant that the trad season was a write-off.

2. Climb lots of E4/5s in the South West.  Would be good to do some off last year's list.

Didn’t do hardly any trad routes for reasons above.  On the other hand I did headpoint my first E7 at the start of the year (Kagutsuchi at Bosigran - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?) and did the first ascent of a new E6 in the autumn (Feed Me To The Birds at the Lizard - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=546692).

The only other SW trad of note was Kafoozalem at Bosigran (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=822) and Reflections at Pentire (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6299).  Both late summer after whipping myself back into shape, and both highly recommended.

3. Go to the Rucksack Club Gogarth meet and climb one of the main cliff E5s.  Alternatively I'd settle for a weekend trip somewhere else outside the South West..

Didn’t get to Gogarth, but had an impromptu weekend in Yorkshire at the start of the year.

Had a frustrating Saturday - failed on Great Flake at Caley, then went over to Almscliff and managed Big Greeny, but dogged Great Western and repeatedly dropped the last move of Demon Roof.

However, had a fantastic Sunday at Crookrise bouldering/highballing/soloing - highlights being Small Brown (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28287), Massive Attack (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28286) and Barry Kingsize (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=59891).

Also had a week’s holiday with the family in the Lakes and managed a couple of hours at the Langdale boulders.

4. RP 8a.

Didn’t even try.  One to roll over to next year.

Other stuff ...

Not planned goals for the year but chuffed to run my first ultra (a hilly 44.5 miles from the Lizard to Lands End in 10.5 hours) while unable to climb due to my arm, and pleased to boulder my first 7B+ once it was back to strength.

All in all, a pretty good year considering how well I managed to smash myself up in March.

[Ged]

Nice one luke. When is the lizard to lands end race? Sounds good.

My 2019 goals were,

Do lots of Font 7s to capitilise on a winter of baby induced fingerboarding

Do some good fell runs

Bouldering has been good in terms of quantity (loads of 7s, inudimg about 4 7B+), but would like to try and get on some harder stuff. Haven't really had a proper siege.

Did some good running, the highlight being Okehampton to Ivybridge across the Moor, on a glorious September morning, on bone dry ground, with a great friend. It started raining as we arrived in Ivybridge, and hasn't really stopped since! Next year would like to get a bit faster over 10-15 miles and do a few more races.

[webbo]

I’m guessing that you meant Western Front not Great Western. Because to go from trying an E6 then to  lead an E3 to then end up dogging a VS would be impressive.

[Will Hunt]

I’m guessing that you meant Western Front not Great Western. Because to go from trying an E6 then to  lead an E3 to then end up dogging a VS would be impressive.

 

That sort of form variance is enough to call his entire climbing CV into question, I'd say.



This post is a joke.

[kingholmesy]

When is the lizard to lands end race? Sounds good.

It was the Classic Quarter in June.  I would highly recommend it. Great scenery and atmosphere, well organised and you get to finish in the Lands End Hotel for a pint (although I was so fucked that I nearly passed out while queuing for the bar).

[kingholmesy]

I’m guessing that you meant Western Front not Great Western.

  Yeah. It doesn’t matter how many times I go there, I have total mental block and always get the name of these two the wrong way round!

[ashtond6]

A maintain year I think due to complicated relationship visa problems....

Climb 20 7A or harder including some in my anti style
yep, 22!

Climb 30+ 7's again
yep, 36!

10-14 days in a warmer climate over winter
fail - visa issues but got away alot

Climb x3 7c's
1 7c, 4 7b+s
did good safe trad instead, the pick being:
White Wall, Bob Hope, Slanted and Enchanted, Goosey, Calamity Crack, Bat out of Hell, Bath house Pink.

Plan a big trip for 2020
yep

Sort out visa issues which is preventing trips
YYFY

gonna give myself all greens since the visa situation is sorted and i replaced some aims with alternate trad successes

[kingholmesy]

That sort of form variance is enough to call his entire climbing CV into question, I'd say.

I was trying Great Flake early in the morning though. 

[Ged]

Is that somewhere near action direct?

[SA Chris]

Broke my arm pretty badly in March trying to onsight Demolition at Sennen (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33153).

Appropriate name! Good effort going for the onsight, I've done the routes either side and had a squizz across, but never had a go at it..

[crzylgs]

Not sure if I posted these here or only on an (inferior) alternative rock touching based forum, so here is a re-cap:

- 'Remain' injury free. I've got a finger niggle that I need to rehab and constant elbow prehab/rehab work to do.
The initial 'finger niggle' took a while to shake but is now fine. It was however somewhat overshadowed by a knee injury (sustained while hiking because I couldn't climb... ) and now a shoulder injury. I didn't really get outdoors for the first 6 months of the year, then was fairly restricted (no left heel hooks) for a couple months before being able to fully go for it again.

- Boulder 7b outdoors. I was close to sending 7a this year but not quite. So 7b seems reasonable?
Not yet. The first 6months set me back a fair whack. I have since sent a nice 'pyramid' of 7a's (a couple within an hour or so of trying for first time). Also a (questionable, or perhaps its just me sandbaging myself on the grade maths) 7a+ or two. Due to missing out on so much outdoor potential when i did get out i was happy finding my feet back on rock and haven't been in 'siege mentality'. The closest I came was falling off the last real move (before easy top out) on 'Baptiste' (7b+) in Magic Wood. This was fairly gutting. I didn't try it until the 2nd last day... Thought it was way beyond me due to the grading and seeing climbers I consider stronger than myself have to battle it. When I jumped on it I quickly worked out I could do all the moves. It's a bit of an endurance boulder and the crux is near the end. I'm pretty sure if i went hunting for a 7b that really suited me and sieged it on repeated visits I could do it. But my mindset for the moment isn't on projecting. Just on being outdoors, enjoying climbing.

- Climb outdoors as much as possible. 30+ days?
Giving myself a pass for this one. As thing's stand (after effectively missing 6 months) I'm at 9 days hiking, 5 nights wild camping and 28 days bouldering! :D

- Have 1+ overseas climbing trip. Probably Font or Magic Wood.
Awesome 2 week trip to Magic wood, with a couple days at Chironico and a brief stop at Font on way home. Also hopefully going to sneak in a Font at the very end of this year / over New Year.

- Progress to full Front Lever. Currently I can only hold slightly extended from tuck. Or one leg tucked, one almost extended.
Pretty sure this was only on my list when I had my finger injury as a distraction from climbing. Something to focus on upstairs in the climbing gym when I couldn't do max hangs or limit bouldering. Needless to say I completely forgot about it when I could return to bouldering... Think it'll probably remain on the bottom of every future list I make always to be forgotten... Not sure if that is the point of lists but never mind 

[Wood FT]

Thanks Cheque.

Sport: 8a+ - Have chosen GBH, think the moves suit me and have the beta, will see how it goes with travelling and psyche.

Boulder: 7B+/C - I’ve not bouldered harder than 7B and I think this is holding me back on the harder Peak Lime routes.

Trad: Good mileage on E3 and E4 - a long weekend ticking the mid-grade classics at Pembroke, the Pass and Gogarth. Feel safe, get the love back. Try boat to Naxos on a top-rope if Ram goes back on his route.

DWS: Mark of The Beast, Wizard of Oz Traverse with dinghy party & attempt new route.

Belaying: 9a belay (current best 8c+). Also, as a long-shot, belay Simon on a season PB on the Oak.

Other: Buy house, get Job, free Murciana ‘78 on the Bulnes.

Good luck and Happy New Year UKB, still providing the goods. Thread of year = Poo-gate

Failed on all of them except house and job