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Aims for 2019 (Read 32750 times)

TobyD

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#25 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 11:13:09 am
* climb any one of my top 3 ongoing challenges err, obviously i mean routes that spanked me in 2018: L'adrecador, Flix flax at Terradets or Los Incredulos at Chulilla.
* Finish the Yorkshire Triple Crown
* Do some remaining routes in Gordale, Pierrepoint, Perfect Mirage (?)
* The Big Apple (or failing that find another decent Peak 8a)
* Climb some trad: nothing at all in 2018, so realistically getting a couple of E4/5 classics done would be ideal, but the more the better - plenty to do in the lakes or pembroke

duncan

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#26 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 02:23:23 pm
1. Look after myself mentally and physically (see 2-4). Very non-specific but I’ll know it when I see it.
 
2. Change my work status.

3. Spend a lot more time (like more than 19 nights) in the hills or by the sea. Should be able get away for weekends rather than day trips from April, however may need to spend some of these in Weston-super-Mare (see 7) which won’t count. It would be great to climb in North Wales for the first time in more than a decade.
 
4. Make a decent fist of being a dad.
 
5. A classic Pembroke E5 (Wall of Prey would be even better).

6. Continue to tick my teenage wish-list with Scenic Cruise in the Black. Bonus points for other western US destinations from Climb!  and Master of Rock.
   
7. RP 7b+ (The Jimi Hendrix Experience?). Finish the job on Empire... and Paradise Lost
 
8. Fall off a 5.13 (7c+).



IanP

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#27 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 02:59:02 pm
* Do some remaining routes in Gordale, Pierrepoint, Perfect Mirage (?)

Thought The Perfect Mirage (TPM!) was great, as good as Defcon in my opinion (possibly slightly biased since the process and grade added to it for me), see my best of 2018 entry.  Cement Garden is also great if you haven't done it.  Conditions on that side can be pretty good during spring/early summer, the worst of the seepage is often avoidable (and less than other side) and the breeze often gives decent conditions when it might be too hot at Malham.

lagerstarfish

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#28 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 03:02:38 pm
7C

36chambers

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#29 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 03:10:07 pm
- tick 5 problems off the “why have you still not done these yet?” list
- put in 5 sessions on a good 8A+/B
- tick 5 problems off the board list
- climb something at Malham
- 5 sec one arm hang the BM 10’s

Will Hunt

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#30 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 03:25:02 pm
- climb something The Oak at Malham

Fixed that for you. I know you and Ben made a pact to try it so just come out with it  :)

teestub

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#31 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 03:31:36 pm
- tick 5 problems off the “why have you still not done these yet?” list
- put in 5 sessions on a good 8A+/B
- tick 5 problems off the board list
- climb something at Malham
- 5 sec one arm hang the BM 10’s

I like this list. Do you think the 10's are actually any harder than BM2K bottom (or top on 1k)? They feel similar in difficulty, just more painful.

Yossarian

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#32 Re: Aims for 201
January 02, 2019, 04:16:22 pm
2019 is going to be a year of ticking stuff.

20 7ANYTHING (inc Help the Young / Benchmark / Beach Ball / Mark’s Roof / Boyager)
20 7anything (inc Waves Become Wings / Violent Breed / Yorkshire Talk at the Promenade, plus Empire of the Sun / The Lynch at Ansteys)
10 Eanything

Get on 8a / 7B+ and reassess Project 8a

Family font trip at Easter, something in the summer, sport trip in the autumn
Try to wangle more mid-week Dorset / SW days, even if it’s just for solo shunting
Clear garage and get a board up asap

Get weight down to 80kg (or a touch lower)
147
1 arm pull-up
Push on with yoga and stretching

Get deal for new book project
Sell bicycles, buy motorbike
Finish kitchen (3 1/2 years and counting)

36chambers

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#33 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 04:27:20 pm
I like this list. Do you think the 10's are actually any harder than BM2K bottom (or top on 1k)? They feel similar in difficulty, just more painful.

There's probably not much in it, however, the roundness of the BM2K edge means I can only really hold it with a 4 finger "drag", which is easily my strongest position.

A few months ago I was doing 1-2 seconds on the 10's, but I was using the strict half-crimp right angle position, which I find much harder than my go to drag grip.

36chambers

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#34 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 04:33:54 pm
- climb something The Oak at Malham

Fixed that for you. I know you and Ben made a pact to try it so just come out with it  :)

it originally read
- go to Malham once
which is literally all I plan to do. But I thought I might as well try to redpoint one of the warm ups, so I amended it accordingly.

spidermonkey09

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#35 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 04:50:07 pm

it originally read
- go to Malham once
which is literally all I plan to do. But I thought I might as well try to redpoint one of the warm ups, so I amended it accordingly.

I'll give you the beta and you can try and flash one of them mate  :whistle:

Will Hunt

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#36 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 05:02:59 pm
I haven't touched this thread in years. Here are the things I would like to do this year:

Training:
Continue to get stronger. This will probably involve spending most of my weekly winter Depot session on the boards. Maybe don't overthink it too much and just try and do varied problems on these boards?
Get some fitness via aerocap or whatever before sport season arrives.

Bouldering:
Fill out the grade pyramid a bit with some 7B+ and 7Cs, with the usual compliment of 7Bs. It would be nice if some of these were things like Lager Lager Lager or Crystal Method which are theoretically within the grade bracket but have a reputation for shutting people down.
Do some FAs. This could be tricky. And doing some really good ones might just not happen. There are a few things on my list that could be go-ers but it'll be tricky to fit them in.
List currently looks like:
Losing My Edge
The Flakes
Lager Lager Lager
Sloping Beauty
Underpants
Pruneaux
Dom's Problem
Secret Seventh
Crystal Method
Jess' Roof

Sport:
Do a first benchmark 7b+. Not one of these 7b/7b+ things.
Do a really good first 7c. A proper belter. Hopefully New Dawn or Dominatrix.
Depending on how that goes, do a first 7c+.
I'll make a proper list closer to the time, but off the top of my head it would be great to do:
New Dawn, Space Race, Dominatrix, Vorsprung, Smouldering Globules, Illywacker, Sunset Boulevard, Comedy,

Trad:
No idea. It would be great to snatch a bit of mountain trad over the summer. There are routes I'd like to do (Wellington Crack, High Noon, etc), but I'm not sure yet if I'll be psyched enough about them to make sure they get done.

Other:
It would be great to move house into a "forever home" this year.
Absolutely beast the guidebook.

moose

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#37 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 08:59:13 pm
Do a really good first 7c. A proper belter. Hopefully New Dawn or Dominatrix.
Depending on how that goes, do a first 7c+.
I'll make a proper list closer to the time, but off the top of my head it would be great to do:
New Dawn, Space Race, Dominatrix, Vorsprung, Smouldering Globules, Illywacker, Sunset Boulevard, Comedy,

That's a great list; I'd add Divine Brown at the Hollywood Bowl - one of my highlights of this year - lovely gymnastic moves and despite supposedly being two grades harder, I found it a lot easier than Illywacker!  Unfortunately it's very seepy - the long hot summer last year was a bit of a golden time for climbing at Hollywood and Gordale.

Bradders

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#38 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 09:44:15 pm
Sloping Beauty
Secret Seventh

Good aims. However, how on earth have you not yet done either of these yet?!?!?

One is a dyno, which I understand you excel at but it can also have all the fun taken out of it via lank. The other is absolute piss and you'll enjoy being able to downgrade it!

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#39 Re: Aims for 2019
January 02, 2019, 10:02:20 pm
Sport: 4 8a's which inspire (Defcon 3, Doctor Evil, Canyonlands, The bulge, etc.)
1 8a+ (Supercool, possibly GHB)

Keep enjoying bouldering, no particular goals there

Trad: Ground up some hard but safe things (Block and Tackle etc.)

Training: Hang bottom beastmaker 2000 one armed (very unlikely, not even close really)
Keep up max hangs as much as possible
Keep up the antagonists
Keep walking/running, it feels good

Life: Less anxiety
Eat more ethically, sack off dairy etc.
Sell things you don't need and give money to charity (books etc.)
Have fun


« Last Edit: January 02, 2019, 10:12:24 pm by B0405413 »

TobyD

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#40 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 07:02:59 am
* Do some remaining routes in Gordale, Pierrepoint, Perfect Mirage (?)

Thought The Perfect Mirage (TPM!) was great, as good as Defcon in my opinion (possibly slightly biased since the process and grade added to it for me), see my best of 2018 entry.  Cement Garden is also great if you haven't done it...
Cheers Ian, I've done Defcon but not the others. Two questions: what is the rock quality like, and does reach make a big difference on these routes?

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#41 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 08:19:15 am
Meltdown before Franco

Front splits

Do an E9

Be in best shape of my life for the Cochamo project in Jan 2020

Either get the self employed coaching/music teaching/maths/science tutoring thing to work better than it currently is, or find a job I'm actively psyched for....

IanP

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#42 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 08:37:49 am
Cheers Ian, I've done Defcon but not the others. Two questions: what is the rock quality like, and does reach make a big difference on these routes?

Rock quality, bit typical Gordale.  Lower section on TPM has some rattly stuff, upper (crux) section is on very good rock, Cement Garden, generally good and any loose stuff doesn't detract from the quality imo. 
Reach, I used a bit of lank at the crux on TPM (I did it on the right) but Keefe did it pretty quickly and I believe took the same line, so don't think height is too much of an issue.  Cement Garden is sustained climbing with hardish moves between decent shakes and I wouldn't think reach has any significant impact.

nai

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#43 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 10:50:41 am
Not sure setting annual goals while slightly ill, slightly injured and very under-exercised is the best time but equally maybe it is:

Really would like to do more trad, the wish list is long and dreams are of long wall pitches on sunny mountain days (but not of faffing with gear and route finding and constantly shitting it and painful feet, none of that reality thank you very much).  I'm sure if I could get slick with gear again then E5 is possible, but it always comes down to availability of partners and using your time effectively so convenient sport wins too often.  Realistically, say, 10 trad days.

2/3 UK mountain/coast long weekends would no doubt help the above

Knock a couple off the Peak Sport WIPs list, will no doubt add some too but aim to finish the year with a net loss.

Complete a Kilnsey route - always fee like the kid in a sweet shop when I go, always use bad tactics and always get spanked meaning I have an unfinished route at every grade from 7a+ to 7c+.  Maybe I should employ some logic and work up rather than down

Perhaps I should put New Dawn on if it's so good, always thought the Peak had the 7c jewel in Too Old Too Be Bold but I'm prepared to be proved wrong

tommytwotone

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#44 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 11:16:49 am
Quite simple for me, 3 x new 7a problems outside.

Think there is sufficient life in the old dog, plus I'm getting a bit better/more focused with training. Really comes down to passes out, weather / time on those days and making sensible choices on target problems. Can see me getting to Blackstone Edge a bit.

Life-wise, I'd like to be less grumpy / more patient with my kids, and at some point move house to somewhere bigger. Seems like everyone's holding their breath till after Brexit though, nothing out there that fits the bill for us at the moment.




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#45 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 11:32:43 am

Perhaps I should put New Dawn on if it's so good, always thought the Peak had the 7c jewel in Too Old Too Be Bold but I'm prepared to be proved wrong

I'd struggle to look past New Dawn as the best route, never mind the best 7c in the country, although Dominatrix is definitely up there.

Will Hunt

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#46 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 12:01:49 pm
Quite simple for me, 3 x new 7a problems outside.

Have a look at Northern Rail at Hebden Gill. It's one of mine and I was really soft with the grade. It's not been repeated yet, I don't think, so no downgrades yet! Get it while it's still 7A!

Another massive softy is Plummet Earth at High Crags in Colsterdale. Fairly straightforward sloper slapping into a couple of smearing moves to get to the top.

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#47 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 12:19:49 pm
always thought the Peak had the 7c jewel in Too Old Too Be Bold but I'm prepared to be proved wrong

Is this a joke?
 :jaw:

Wil

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#48 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 01:15:14 pm
2018 was, on paper at least, a good climbing year for me. I never really hit my stride though due to some family issues and spent a lot of the sunner not quite as fit as I'd like and with little headspace for harder trad.

Goals for this year:

- Redpoint another 7c, probably at Ban-Y-Gor, Brean is also an option. I'd love to get New Dawn done but it's a long way from home, worth a couple of weekends if I'm feeling fit.

- Mileage on 7a and 7b on Spain trip in February. It would be great to flash a 7b, but I'd settle for second or third go. Flashing a few 7as would be a good trip.

- the one that goes in every year. Onsighting some of the big E5s, Pembroke, Right Wall, Pacemaker etc. I didn't quite get to this fitness last year.

- Support SO into fulfilling employment. WIP already.

- Lose a few kg, stay under 75.

- Regular running (min 5km per week) and min 1 session fingerboarding per week.


Wil

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#49 Re: Aims for 2019
January 03, 2019, 01:18:25 pm

5. A classic Pembroke E5 (Wall of Prey would be even better).

7. RP 7b+ (The Jimi Hendrix Experience?). Finish the job on Empire... and Paradise Lost

Keen for these too if you need a partner.

 

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