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Font knowledge needed! (Read 5052 times)

Ti_pin_man

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Font knowledge needed!
December 18, 2018, 02:24:04 pm
I've been investigating a few projects for a font trip next year - as you do - and am strangely being drawn to slab high balls  - I am odd like that.  i spotted :  Le Dernier des Géants 7a at Mont Pivot and wondered if anybody here has done it / seen it / tried it and can tell me if it has any edges or of it is a typical smear beast?

https://bleau.info/pivot/2243.html

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 18, 2018, 02:52:11 pm
Can't help with that specific problem, but I really enjoyed this:
https://bleau.info/cuvierest/4142.html

There's loads of tall walls/slabs in that area that would fit the bill. The one I've just linked to also has a harder direct finish which will increase the spice (it's all over once you start to move left on the original route).

finbarrr

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#2 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 18, 2018, 03:23:42 pm
I've been investigating a few projects for a font trip next year - as you do - and am strangely being drawn to slab high balls  - I am odd like that.  i spotted :  Le Dernier des Géants 7a at Mont Pivot and wondered if anybody here has done it / seen it / tried it and can tell me if it has any edges or of it is a typical smear beast?

https://bleau.info/pivot/2243.html

i have not tried it, but walked past it a few times: it has holds, and they get better higher up. think the hardest moves are 2 -4 meters up on edges ( not even tiny ones), looks to climb more like a wall that a typical font slab

Ti_pin_man

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#3 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 18, 2018, 03:31:23 pm
thats cool beta, I like some edges and especially higher up   :clap2:

fried

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#4 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 18, 2018, 03:43:18 pm
Ma Qué Bella!
https://bleau.info/videlles_abbatoir/2367.html

Patience Yago
https://bleau.info/greau/882.html

A couple of ideas that look good. Never tried them so can't comment.

spidermonkey09

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#5 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 18, 2018, 04:56:16 pm
Rababoum at Manoury. Plenty of pads required but very very good.

Bradders

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#6 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 18, 2018, 05:52:16 pm
Rababoum at Manoury. Plenty of pads required but very very good.

Agree, it's exceptionally good. Definitely not a slab though...

Foret Noir surely ticks all the boxes?

https://bleau.info/guinguette/8944.html

205Chris

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#7 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 18, 2018, 06:39:17 pm
Rababoum at Manoury. Plenty of pads required but very very good.

Agree, it's exceptionally good. Definitely not a slab though...

Foret Noir surely ticks all the boxes?

https://bleau.info/guinguette/8944.html

Foret Noire is indeed excellent. Nice rounded edges as opposed to sharp grattons.

joel182

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#8 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 18, 2018, 06:55:50 pm
Les Nombrilistes looked great to me, though I never got to try it since its surrounded by trees and stays quite wet

https://bleau.info/chateaurenard/129.html

monkey boy

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#9 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 19, 2018, 07:28:57 am
Regarding Le Dernier des Géants the first couple of moves are the hard part, small but positive crimps like a lot of Font slabs.

Mosquito Coast - https://bleau.info/cretesud/464.html

And mentioned above Foret Noire, Les Nombrillistes and Ma Que Bella (probably the best 6B+ I have ever done).

Calamity Jane and Fil a Plomb at Avon are also ace.

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#10 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 19, 2018, 10:10:56 am
This is turning into a nice ticklist ;)

Will Hunt

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#11 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 19, 2018, 10:23:47 am
I don't recall really rating Patience Yago. Couple of fluffable moves low down and a path to the top. Didn't feel like especially good climbing in the same way that some slabs are a joy to move up.

T_B

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#12 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 19, 2018, 10:26:11 am
Agreed. There's a photo in the guide innit.

Montee Divine is a class slab/arete.

Ti_pin_man

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#13 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 19, 2018, 11:19:42 am
This tick list is indeed rather fab, thx guys! 

highrepute

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#14 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 19, 2018, 11:20:17 am
I don't recall really rating Patience Yago. Couple of fluffable moves low down and a path to the top. Didn't feel like especially good climbing in the same way that some slabs are a joy to move up.

I thought it were nice. Couple of hard moves low down then just keep your head to the top. Wouldn't go there specifically for it but worth doing if there.

I remember enjoying the problems around Super Dalle at Buthiers Canard. High but not highball.

Bradders

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#15 Re: Font knowledge needed!
December 19, 2018, 11:29:49 am
La Dalle d'Alain (gauche) is superb, perfect slab climbing with some nice holds and delicate smears. Great position up high above the forest with some of the best views in Fontainebleau as well.

The problem itself isn't too high but the landing is dodgy enough for it to feel a bit exposed as you get towards the top.

https://bleau.info/apremontest/9205.html

GazM

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#16 Re: Font knowledge needed!
July 10, 2023, 12:10:39 pm
We're passing staying in Milly for a few days later this week and I'd appreciate any advice on areas with the most shade and easy access (3 and 5yr old kids) in the Trois Pignon area.
 
I'll certainly show them the giant sandpit at Cul du Chien but seem to recall there's not a huge amount of shade in that area so looking for other areas that will keep them (and me) entertained in the July heat.

Offwidth

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#17 Re: Font knowledge needed!
July 10, 2023, 12:29:07 pm
Beauvais/Nainville just north of Milly has good heavily shaded areas with a good range including kids circuits. I've climbed there in July.

West of Milly, Feuillardière has the best toddler problems I've seen but not much else and will be hotter.

GazM

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#18 Re: Font knowledge needed!
July 10, 2023, 01:24:13 pm
 Thanks. To be honest the kids aren't fussed about climbing, just playing in the forest will be enough. So shady climbing for me is the aim!

scragrock

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#19 Re: Font knowledge needed!
July 10, 2023, 02:52:03 pm
Gorge aux Chats, Canche aux Merciers are both ok for shade Gaz and has some good scrambles for the kids, actually most areas around there have a bit of shade if you seek it out.

Also- https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g1473574-d5484014-Reviews-Le_Cyclop-Milly_la_Foret_Essonne_Ile_de_France.html
The Cyclops just on the outskirts of Milly is worth a visit with the wee ones ;D

Have a good one :)

lukeyboy

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#20 Re: Font knowledge needed!
July 10, 2023, 03:28:39 pm
I think Roche aux Oiseaux would be a good shady option, and it's not a long hot walk to get there. Some excellent problems and less busy than most of the other Trois Pignons crags.

GazM

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#21 Re: Font knowledge needed!
July 11, 2023, 09:29:57 am
Cheers all, plenty to explore! I've been to Font a couple of times on brief visits in the past but there's so much choice I never know where to go!

T_B

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#22 Re: Font knowledge needed!
July 11, 2023, 10:42:40 am
Depends what grades you climb but I reckon Bois Rond is a better option than Oiseaux if you want circuits. Some of Oiseaux is actually pretty open (eg the initial boulders and Brazil get a lot of sun).

Bois Rond has a nice flat shady area on top with some big trees. Better family base camp than anything at Oiseaux. You can also nip over to the lower section of Rocher de La Reine.

Tbh I’ve tended to avoid the TP in summer as it’s busy and there are better cooler areas.

SA Chris

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#23 Re: Font knowledge needed!
July 11, 2023, 11:57:35 am
Bois Ronde is a good call, especially with kids, as there is a reasonable concentration of boulders in the middle that you can access without wandering too far off.

GazM

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#24 Re: Font knowledge needed!
July 15, 2023, 08:20:59 am
Thanks for the info folks. Had a couple of quick sessions in the forest but it's bloody hot (and I've not climbed for a few weeks, and did I say it was bloody hot?)

Spent half an hour sweating and failing to get my foot high enough for the move across the roof on Toit du Cul du Chien, then failing equally well on the 6A+ beside it  :'(

Would love to visit one day when conditions are actually good and I had enough time to get a bit of momentum.

 

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