[teestub]

Isn't this (12-15s) long for max hangs?

Dave Mason recommends 12 secs in his video and in conversation suggested up to 15secs and intuitively I agree.

The 12 secs in the video is to work out what roughly 85% max is for a 10 sec hang, you test for 12 but hangs are for 10.

I hit a bit of a plateau with two arm weighted hangs but have seen good progress switching to small hold max hangs (micros) and one arm assisted hangs.

[Duma]

I'm not surprised to see you thinking about ways to turn strength training into endurance training.

Busted

Maybe if you climb faster ^tm you could get away with only hanging for 7 secs? 

[shark]

Been playing around to determine baselines on the Anderson intermediate routine and another anomaly is +10lbs for the second set.

Given the range of holds the resistance is likely to vary for me from 20kgs on the pinches to 80kgs. The added weight should surely therefore be a % of baseline rather than a fixed 10lbs

[cofe]

Isn't this (12-15s) long for max hangs?

Dave Mason recommends 12 secs in his video and in conversation suggested up to 15secs and intuitively I agree.

The 12 secs in the video is to work out what roughly 85% max is for a 10 sec hang, you test for 12 but hangs are for 10.

I hit a bit of a plateau with two arm weighted hangs but have seen good progress switching to small hold max hangs (micros) and one arm assisted hangs.

A bendy-legged wooden training handle manufacturer suggested 13-15s for max hangs so that’s what I’ve been doing. Working at the mo.

[abarro81]

Given the range of holds the resistance is likely to vary for me from 20kgs on the pinches to 80kgs. The added weight should surely therefore be a % of baseline rather than a fixed 10lbs

My baseline is never more than body weight + 15kg because I don't like to hang more than 25kg off me. If you're adding 80kg then you must be training on a jug??? Unless you mean 20kg-80kg TOTAL, in which case if you need 50odd kg taken off then you need a bigger hold for that grip! I don't think you need to go outside roughly BW +/- 10-15kg, so it should work out ok. I do also sometimes use less than 5kg as a step up, but rarely. I also sometimes adjust by switching hold instead of adding weight but we're getting into the weeds here - get it roughly right then start worrying about that once you're used to how it should work and so can manipulate it and still get it how its supposed to be...

[shark]

Yes I’m including body weight. Using a block with 10kg weight attached for pinches so 20kg total for both arms compared to dragging a large edge with 72kg body weight +12.5kgs. It’s going to be in the region of 35kg resistance for back2, front2 and mid2

You are right that it is a big session. Even though I botched the weight and didn’t complete most of the sets I was wiped after and not up for doing weights after though I did do a short limit bouldering session (stopping strong) before starting the routine (got both my Oak problems for the first time :-) )

[Ged]

Sorry to hijack here, but interested in this Anderson stuff. I'm mainly training for stiff at Ansteys so similar demand to the oak I guess. So I am get my head around energy systems planning, is this an cap? Lots of people seem to rate doing a sesh a week of it, but unsure what combine it with. A bouldering sesh, some max hangs, and an aerobic sesh? Or does it negate the need for max hangs? I'm pretty keen on the idea of non linear periods.

Advice appreciated.

[shark]

Sorry to hijack here, but interested in this Anderson stuff. I'm mainly training for stiff at Ansteys so similar demand to the oak I guess. So I am get my head around energy systems planning, is this an cap? Lots of people seem to rate doing a sesh a week of it, but unsure what combine it with. A bouldering sesh, some max hangs, and an aerobic sesh? Or does it negate the need for max hangs? I'm pretty keen on the idea of non linear periods.

Advice appreciated.

Capacity training (AnCap and AeroCap) is certainly part of energy training. Alex’s article is the least confusing explanation of the model. How much you embrace it or believe in it is another matter.

The Andersons are heavily into periodisation. They live a long way from any climbing and build up to peaking on trips so that suits them well.

Anderson hangs are just a Fingerboard regime that seems to have got results but it’s pretty intensive with lots of hangs and grip types. I think some bouldering before as part of a warm up to get fully recruited is a good idea and weights after is a good training day. Not sure about aerocap after as your forearms will be shot and it might confuse the body on what is being trained for unless as Alex suggests above it’s pretty low level - maybe treat it as a type of warm down.

[teestub]

Sorry to hijack here, but interested in this Anderson stuff. I'm mainly training for stiff at Ansteys so similar demand to the oak I guess. So I am get my head around energy systems planning, is this an cap? Lots of people seem to rate doing a sesh a week of it, but unsure what combine it with. A bouldering sesh, some max hangs, and an aerobic sesh? Or does it negate the need for max hangs? I'm pretty keen on the idea of non linear periods.

Advice appreciated.

The Andersons are heavily into periodisation. They live a long way from any climbing and build up to peaking on trips so that suits them well.

Worth pointing out perhaps that they seemed to have moved away from a linear periodisation (doing one thing at a time) to a more non-linear periodisation (doing different things in the same week) since they wrote their book, as discussed on the podcast here https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/andersons-2/

[Steve Crowe]

Sorry to hijack her...    does it negate the need for max hangs? I'm pretty keen on the idea of non linear periods.

Advice appreciated.

As I understand it, nothing negates the need for max hangs.

[lagerstarfish]

As I understand it, nothing negates the need for max hangs.

is this available as a t-shirt option?

[Will Hunt]

As I understand it, nothing negates the need for max hangs.

is this available as a t-shirt option?

 

[moose]

As I understand it, nothing negates the need for max hangs.

is this available as a t-shirt option?

 

And on the back:

"You can argue all you want about technique and friction and the subtleties of climbing on grit or sandstone or whatever; but personally, for me to do the next hard problem, it really comes down to strength and, you know, how hard I can pull, I'm afraid." Ben Moon

[Murph]

And on the side:
”Don’t use for every stupid thing an excuse. There is not too short, too tall, too heavy, too warm, too wet, too humid. There is just one excuse: too weak.”

[user deactivated]

Pppfffftttt he’s clearly not spent enough time at LPT or the Tor

[Doylo]

And on the side:
”Don’t use for every stupid thing an excuse. There is not too short, too tall, too heavy, too warm, too wet, too humid. There is just one excuse: too weak.”

Bollocks.

[Bradders]

As I understand it, nothing negates the need for max hangs.

is this available as a t-shirt option?

 

And on the back:

"You can argue all you want about technique and friction and the subtleties of climbing on grit or sandstone or whatever; but personally, for me to do the next hard problem, it really comes down to strength and, you know, how hard I can pull, I'm afraid." Ben Moon

Brilliant, I'd buy one.

[tomtom]

And on the side:
”Don’t use for every stupid thing an excuse. There is not too short, too tall, too heavy, too warm, too wet, too humid. There is just one excuse: too weak.”

Bollocks.

Exactly. Everyone knows you start the arriving at the crag excuse sequence with being too weak and  then rattle through the others. :D *Recent fathers might be allowed to start with a sleep depravation monologue

[Doylo]

He must have been too weak to onsight Statement then. A mere 8a 

[petejh]

Isn't it great! Having crags that are in shit condition half the time so visiting foreign wads get shut down by grease! 

[Doylo]

It wasn’t grease, the silly twat went down on a freezing day in March.

[Fiend]

And on the side:
”Don’t use for every stupid thing an excuse. There is not too short, too tall, too heavy, too warm, too wet, too humid. There is just one excuse: too weak.”

Hopefully he's matured a bit since then