[shark]

11.4-8 Average 160.7 up 1.6lbs

M TT texted and agreed to go to Remergence. Lovely morning. Chris205 and TobyW also there. Thought I’d be wiped from training on Sunday but did ok on BD tickling left slot twice.
PM Glorious walk on Great Ridge with family. Glad I took full advantage of the day given that the weather went horribly warm and wet thereafter

T

W Went to Tor to meet Nick but it was completely condensed. Home. Assisted one armers and max hangs. Good progress on both

T Morning. Foundry with boys. Managed the hard fluro yellow just right of centre on steep bit. Then with Plattsy worked and managed to send wasp on the same line - encouraging to do a level 3 in a session
PM Drove to Devon

F

S Max benchmark hangs on a campus rung and offset pull-ups on rock rings in a barn Significant improvement in offset pull-ups - doesn’t feel like I’m far off a one armer on right and no noticeable tweakiness either. 3 attempts at tuck to front lever. Massive absolute gains on deadhangs compared to Mar 30th when I last did this session. About an 8kg / 9.4% absolute improvement including BW on unstrict half crimp and drag.

S Log splitting

One more big meal / sess then I can jump on the wagon. 5lbs to lose in jan.

Been reading a borrowed copy of Mastermind (but don’t tell Will) It’s better than a quick flip through previously suggested. Not sure I can totally buy in to the self image stuff but will try to take a more positive approach. Not finished yet but some other good pointers so far especially on visualisation.

Signed up for a weekly weight training programme at Collegiate.

[Murph]

Looks like a strong week that shark, considering.

M- trackside loop
T-
W-5k run
T-
F-5k run
S-trackside loop. Sidetrack is nails. Someone there trying play hard.
S-5k run, 24kg kettlebell routine.

Think I’ll try a bit harder to limit backsliding next Christmas. This week was ridiculous to be honest. 5kgs to lose in January.

[gollum]

Good to see people getting stuff done this week.

Ho ho ho!!!

 M - Heavy pull session. Rack pulls with pause up to 150k for doubles, Kettlebell Pendlay Rows at 40k x 2, Weighted Pull Ups.

3 x 5 Interval Boulders. Steepish wall and all fingers problems at Depot. Yellow, Purple and Red with a different sequence to be used on Red each go to keep it interesting. Dropped one of the Yellow attempts but otherwise all good.

T - Max hangs at 95% before disappearing out for festivities. Felt lethargic and full of a cold but otherwise okay.

W - Supposed to be doing some volume, but beaten by a cold so just a bit of stretching

T - Bench in the morning 5X5 finishing at 90k followed by TRX and shoulder work. Afternoon at Big Depot, Boulder Volume 20 problems in an hour, did 11 Reds, 6 Purples and 3 Yellows, so fairly pleased with that and then finished off with 5 minutes on 3 off on Autobelays between 6a and 6c+. Seem to be doing okay as cold is on its way now.

F - Deadlifts to start the day, up to 162.5. Followed by one arm pull ups and pull-ups and some TRX and stretching.
Trip to Manchester Depot with friends with the plan off just having a good time. Get a few new purples done, fall off the top of two Yellows and then get into the Bouldering League problems. Pleased with what I do and certainly get more points than I would have at Leeds. Objective was to enjoy it all and I definitely did. Worn out by the end though.

S - Bench for triples up to 95k and declines to 90k all felt very solid. Then some wide grip presses and incline presses which irritated my shoulder a touch so did plenty of stretching and rehab stuff to activate the various muscles etc. Finished gym session with some TRX work which was steady enough.
Went for a run with Mrs B and managed to just about keep up until she kicked in last kilometre before home.

S - Pull ups and One Arms at Gym followed by some shoulder activations and rehab stuff including curls. Bit of cardio.
Max hangs with 95% of Max, so 62k per arm. Felt steady enough. Took a ten minute break and then did some repeaters on BM2K which I’ve not done in a while. Small edge, M2, F2, B2, 35, F3, B3 and Small edge crimped. All felt pretty solid except M2 which was a bit of a struggle. The more I engaged shoulders, the easier it felt on many of these.

Overall another solid week with some progress in some areas but not so in others. Managed to end the week at five or take the same body weight as it started. I think being on call for three nights helped significantly.

[nai]

M - F away at wife's sister and family for Christmas.  Usual excesses with no activity.  Was woken early Wednesday by Glutes going in to mild spasm, fortunately managed to prevent it getting too bad with self massage and stretching through day.

S - Amazingly weighed in at same weight as Sunday.
Had a pass but connies looked sub optimal so Repeaters & core.

S - reclimbed all circuits on board prepping for training, also set half a new AeroPow
HI Aero, usually do 10 laps but was pumped after five. Good to do some moves though and shoulder felt ok.

[Bradders]

M to F - nothing beyond a bit of stretching and a couple of short walks. Visit to see family for Christmas was brilliant albeit all too short. Caught a cold which surfaced most noticeably on Thursday but it's not too bad.

S - couple of hours at Baildon Bank. Lovely day, nice breeze but not cold at all. Did The Green Wing about 3rd go after warming up on the moves. Pleasantly surprised by it, thought it was a great, powerful, little problem. About six goes at Pinch 32; did the top but not the crux move. The light was failing so moved on to Who are we without Moon, which I thought was superb; did it about 4th/5th go.

S - Brimham was completely condensed but hung around and late afternoon found dry rock at Plantation Crack; Big Fish was catching a very strong breeze and a bit of sun. Did Big Fish 3rd go. Nice problem with a good first move. Very briefly tried Chief whateveritis and did all but one move. Then went to the Depot and did a flash comp session on the yellows; managed three.

[tomtom]

M. Remergence with SharkusMaximus. Pleasure to meet 205Chris for the first time and hello again Toby. Skin was in short supply but good session on BD. Moving from both slots to jug is the only bit I can’t do. I know it’s probably easier than earlier bits but reaching the jig means getting my right hip/leg out from the comfort of under the lip...

Thurs. Depot. Did two purples id not done before and nearly did another (all on comp wall) not bad considering I felt fat and slow.

Presently awaiting 2019 in Norfolk so unless I get to the wall tomorrow that’ll be it for 2019!

[TobyD]

M nowt
T 7km run
W 2km jog in the morning
T quick boulder and repeaters session at the bunker
F 5.5 km run
S 7.2 km run
S 8 km run

Feeling generally unmotivated to climb and a touch coldy, will need a swift boot camp to feel slightly more in the groove for a trip to Spain in January.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - 12 minutes of loaded carries.
Tue - farmer's walk 60 kg 1/1 x10; EMOM deadlift x10 and pull ups x5 x10.
Wed - boxing bag.
Thu - farmer's 60% (80 kg) 1/1 x5 totally brutal; EMOM deadlift 5x10.
Fri - weights of some sort.
Sat - Hackey pull  x10, snatch pulls x5, tricep planks x5, lateral raises x5, bicep curl x5, abs x25, glute bridges x5, all x5.
Sun - pulled my finger out and did some foot on campusing. Right knee was quickly very unpleasant, so I stuck to the left foot only. The power is still there - in my arms and fingers, that is - and quickly went up to 10 kg added. Then I tried an old PE routine of 15" on, 30" off x8 times, and it went very fine. Glad about it!
Finished the session with a good 10 minutes of overhead carry.

I finally had the results of my right knee MR scan, and they showed quite a good mess. Broken medial meniscus - almost complete tear - with a good plethora of other stuff, from a torn cruciate ligament - only half of it remaining - to various kinds of meniscopathy, capsulitis and assorted inflammations.
This killed my board mojo a little bit.
Extremely happy about the foot on campusing, with only one - major - drawback, my right index is now very painful at the dip joint, a harsh reminder that I should NOT full crimp anymore, at least when doing some volume. 
Last week of the year, it was a good year to be honest, mainly spent doing weights and other stuff due to my elbow, but having sorted it out is a great joy. Quite pissed about my right knee, I could be in very good climbing shape otherwise.

[shark]

  Do you think you will need an op?

[Will Hunt]

Great minds think alike this week, Bradders.

M - in Norwich with family.

T - Several reps of wrapping ripping. Numerous sets of 5 reps of throw the 1/2/5 year old in the air. Protein based recovery dinner later.

W -

T -

F - Almscliff. Warmed up around DWR and then the rain started. Had one go on Crusis just to do some moves. Left and called at Baildon Bank on way home. Can't do the move to the pinch on Pinch 32 since fatty Ben scuffed the heel. Sacked it off and did the sit to Who Are We which was at least something.

S -

S - Went to Crow Crag and it was begopped. Begged Ben to let us go to Plantation Crack but he was having none of it and he dragged me kicking and screaming to Almscliff which was in great nick. Warmed up on DWR and did an eliminate I've not done before (DBS without roof crimp). Then went to Jess'. Worked the crux at the end and nearly did the crux but didn't have the lock off crimp power. Maybe one to look at later in the season. It was at least good to play with different beta variations and figure out what is the best way. Think I actually had a better best go than Ben. He then dragged me to Matt's Roof, proclaiming it to be a three star classic. Some impressive pad engineering took place to strap the pads down and stop them blowing away. Did it on the last go of the day, splitting a tip in the process. Ben didn't do it, so he was thoroughly burned off - it's messy work but someone's got to do it.

The most interesting development was that I found myself power screaming on Jess' and Matt's. It really helped to actually give as much as possible on raw, basic power moves. Obviously you look a bit silly, but it's a tool on the arsenal.

[Nibile]

Shark, I highly think so.
It's not essential at the moment and I could avoid it but the mobility problems will remain.
I can't pull or push hard with my knee bent more than 90°, and it's uncomfortable even when riding my bikes.
So I'll speak with the doctor soon, I prefer to program an operation according to my working and studying schedule.

[shark]

Bummer. A hard, but no rush, when/if decision

[Bradders]

Great minds think alike this week, Bradders.

It was your insta vid which reminded me I hadn't yet experienced the delights of Baildon Bank 

Those two problems at Plantation Crack are definitely well worth doing but Jess' Roof is clearly superior, so I think you made the right choice.

[36chambers]

Ben didn't do it, so he was thoroughly burned off - it's messy work but someone's got to do it.

thanks for covering for me whilst I'm away

[Coops_13]

Sorry to here that Nibs, hope the future surgery goes well and you come back even stronger! Can’t wait to see you unleash on some real rock.

[Nibile]

Cheers Coops, much appreciated!
Yes, the rough plan is to get the knee sorted, then postpone the board projects and concentrate on training for a project on rock, leaving the weights a bit behind in terms of percentage of training volume, and using them to keep the power output high and for general conditioning purpose.
Let's see...

[cheque]

Sorry to hear about your knee Nibs.

Rehab Diaries week nineteen

M- Rest. Walk around Derwent Dams. Beautiful afternoon that was in no way split by forgetting to put a memory card in my camera. 

T- Festive walk to Tintwistle Knarr of all places. Visibility was so poor that we couldn’t find the crag! Fingerboard repeaters after.

W- Gym. Bloody horrible stair-treadmill. Tried to do 3x10 minutes at the usual 90 steps per minute but doing the first five minutes without my hands on the handles absolutely wasted me and I had to stop the last session after 7:30 for fear of puking. 

T- Walk around Brimham- ages since I’d been and loads of fun. Obviously this involved loads of scrambling up the descent routes of pinnacles which was ace  - closest thing I’ve done to rock climbing for way too long.

F- Rest. Walk around Leeds. Carried a shopping bag over one shoulder all day which made my back hurt- still can’t carry unevenly balances loads for any distance without pain it would seem.

S- Rest. Walk around York.

S- Gym. More standing on a Bosu ball holding 12kg kettlebells, then deadlifting for the first time in 11 months. Physio told me to do 5-3-2 in terms of reps so I did 5x20kg, 3x25kg & 5x30kg. As I used the one piece barbells in the general weights area I kind of fucked the reps up as you obviously have to pick the whole weight up again after you use it and put it back on the rack afterwards but it didn’t seem to do any harm (30kg is half my body weight so could go heavier but I’m scared, justifiably I think!) and my technique was fine. Various machine stuff afterwards.

Feeling good at the end of the year. Need to stretch more in 2019 though.

[jamesturnbull97]

Very little this week with festivities and purely a lack of psyche. Fingerboarded and weighted pull ups on Saturday but thats it climbing related.
Ankle Update:
Huge progress with recovery this week, managed to get down to using one crutch at the start of the week and was able to get more weight on it. By Thursday swelling had reduced significantly and since then have been able to limp around sans crutches. This weeks biggest achievement by far has been being able get up and down the stairs with limited fuss 
Yesterday went out the Leeds Urban Bike Park to test the ankle out, managed to ride with limited pain baring the odd incident. Felt a bit stiff this morning but doesn't feel like it caused it any issues, good to find that I can get out riding again to a reasonable high standard again. Ankle is starting to look a normal size again just still has considerable bruising, ligaments still feel quite weak while walk around and is still painful with any movement that pulls or loads it sideways which isn't ideal for trying to climb on it again so that might have to wait for another few days.
Vast improvements this week so fingers crossed it's properly on the mend now and won't be too much longer until I can get back at it.

[tommytwotone]

James, I knacked my ankle about 10 years ago (falling over pissed on way home from a night out).

After the initial swelling had gone down I did wobble board stuff (you can get cheap ones off Decathlon) and calf raise / hamstring stretch type stuff and it passed relatively quickly.

Still think if I'd been sober I'd have broken it!