[moose]

JuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of stature

I suspect it's just desperate for all.  A sit-start groove into a slopey top-out doesn't strike me as the epitome of a tall man's problem (I never got close to it when I was routinely ticking stuff of that grade).  Like many problems, I reckon it would be easier if you had short legs and long arms.  Short arms and short legs: can't reach and have to do more moves.  Long arms and long legs: bunched up and levered outwards from holds.

[tomtom]

JuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of stature

I suspect it's just desperate for all.  A sit-start groove into a slopey top-out doesn't strike me as the epitome of a tall man's problem (I never got close to it when I was routinely ticking stuff of that grade).  Like many problems, I reckon it would be easier if you had short legs and long arms.  Short arms and short legs: can't reach and have to do more moves.  Long arms and long legs: bunched up and levered outwards from holds.

Yup. Horrible for me. Yuk.

One for those 5’10” +6 ape monsters.

Or Will Hunt

[Yossarian]

given the time it takes you to get here (Peak) Yossa, it would be good to have a few backup plans for if things don't work out (weather, skin, time etc) - worth getting a few lists for different circumstances

a few of my ideas for contingency plans/lists (others will have more to add to these)

fast drying projects are useful - eg. Hampers Hang - easy to work due to being a traverse and a short walk in. Conan The Librarian, the best mid 6 in The Peak dries quick and makes you feel like a proper climber

very short walk ins sometimes needed to fill in at the end of a day or after plans go wrong - anything at Bbg West. but probably West Side Story and The Nose for your ticks. Banana Finger Direct at Bbg N suits the taller humans (Steve McC said he found it hard). The Curbar Block and Gorilla Warfare pit (Early Doors would be my recommendation)

stuff that is in nick when other stuff might not be - eg. the Remergence variations / Blind Date stuff; this place has the benefit of flat landing, short walk in and a few things in your range

stuff that is super safe to work on your own - eg. a few things at Secret Garden - Beach Ball, the traverse

stuff that doesn't use power, skin, fingers - eg. Deliverance traverse

oh, and improve your chances of remembering your hard earned beta by videoing it

possibly worth considering somewhere as a warm up routine - locals use the 20ft Crack area of Bbg N and Bbg Bridge  - it helps to have somewhere where you know the moves to get yourself ready for the day - if it's a new area for you, do the easiest problems over and over until you feel the force

That all sounds like excellent advice. I’ve not been to Secret Garden since the summer of 1995! The whole thing is really about preparation and tactics, and i’m feeling much better equipped now.