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A Tall Order (Read 13953 times)

Danny

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#25 Re: A Tall Order
December 11, 2018, 07:12:55 pm
Opium in Font also, by the looks of it anyway.

turnipturned

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#26 Re: A Tall Order
December 11, 2018, 09:34:04 pm

Wonderland (8A) Priest's Cove: tried this a little bit and I think the crux sequence might be quite a stretch for shorties. On that note, Dan, I hear you've done this...did you find it a bit of a stretch?
.

Yeah it’s a big move but you have got a big heel. I also did a direct sit which is really cool. Great block, ace location. Tad sharp. I have a video, will post it up sometime!!

36chambers

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#27 Re: A Tall Order
December 12, 2018, 12:02:08 am
As a fellow lank, I would say that the majority of moves are slightly harder easier for lanks, but some are massively easier.

FTFY ;)

Andy F

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#28 Re: A Tall Order
December 12, 2018, 07:21:48 am
Lets be honest. If you're tall then you're not climbing, you're just lanking. Climbing is the thing people who are of shorter stature do... :guilty:

Duma

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#29 Re: A Tall Order
December 12, 2018, 08:02:41 am
Re the tintagel vid, Lewis is the most ridiculously lanky person I've ever climbed with.

Ru

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#30 Re: A Tall Order
December 12, 2018, 08:20:09 am
Peak/Yorkshire stuff. Don't know if these things are easier for the tall or just hard for the short.

Spring Voyage 7c/+
Buckstone Dyno 7b
Undercut Dyno at the Roaches 7a?
Sausage King of Meersbrook 7c/+
Brass Monkeys 7b+/c
Westworld 7c+/8a
Seans Roof 8a/+
Curious Yellow 7c+
Underworld 7c+
Barry Sheene 7c
Slingshot 8a
Deliverance 7b+
Ben's Wall (RHS) 7c
Work Hard/ Play Hard 8a+/7c
Exocet the proper way 8a+
Cypher 8b
That 8a arete left of Sloping Beauty 8a
Toe-fu 8a+
Welsh Rarebit/Waite 7c
Vicious Streak 8a (I think. I may have been trying it wrong).


« Last Edit: December 12, 2018, 03:26:24 pm by Ru »

Danny

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#31 Re: A Tall Order
December 12, 2018, 09:03:19 am

Wonderland (8A) Priest's Cove: tried this a little bit and I think the crux sequence might be quite a stretch for shorties. On that note, Dan, I hear you've done this...did you find it a bit of a stretch?
.

Yeah it’s a big move but you have got a big heel. I also did a direct sit which is really cool. Great block, ace location. Tad sharp. I have a video, will post it up sometime!!

Would be cool to see a vid of that Dan. Had a quick look at potential for direct finish, which I think is possible, and there's also a line to go on the left that will finish up my highball 7A Dreamgoat. Boulder is filling up nicely.

Sorry about :offtopic:

lagerstarfish

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#32 Re: A Tall Order
December 12, 2018, 08:54:24 pm
given the time it takes you to get here (Peak) Yossa, it would be good to have a few backup plans for if things don't work out (weather, skin, time etc) - worth getting a few lists for different circumstances

a few of my ideas for contingency plans/lists (others will have more to add to these)

fast drying projects are useful - eg. Hampers Hang - easy to work due to being a traverse and a short walk in. Conan The Librarian, the best mid 6 in The Peak dries quick and makes you feel like a proper climber

very short walk ins sometimes needed to fill in at the end of a day or after plans go wrong - anything at Bbg West. but probably West Side Story and The Nose for your ticks. Banana Finger Direct at Bbg N suits the taller humans (Steve McC said he found it hard). The Curbar Block and Gorilla Warfare pit (Early Doors would be my recommendation)

stuff that is in nick when other stuff might not be - eg. the Remergence variations / Blind Date stuff; this place has the benefit of flat landing, short walk in and a few things in your range

stuff that is super safe to work on your own - eg. a few things at Secret Garden - Beach Ball, the traverse

stuff that doesn't use power, skin, fingers - eg. Deliverance traverse

oh, and improve your chances of remembering your hard earned beta by videoing it

possibly worth considering somewhere as a warm up routine - locals use the 20ft Crack area of Bbg N and Bbg Bridge  - it helps to have somewhere where you know the moves to get yourself ready for the day - if it's a new area for you, do the easiest problems over and over until you feel the force
« Last Edit: December 12, 2018, 09:02:50 pm by lagerstarfish »

Will Hunt

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#33 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 12:06:32 am
What about Marks Roof at Gardoms? Ticks all those boxes, is the right grade, not going to be harder for the tall and stands to be much easier if you've a massive span.

lagerstarfish

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#34 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 09:06:16 am
What about Marks Roof at Gardoms? Ticks all those boxes, is the right grade, not going to be harder for the tall and stands to be much easier if you've a massive span.

and you can work the crux from standing

I'd be careful on Marks Roof LH - the finishing flake feels like it has a bit of movement that might not tolerate a larger athlete

highrepute

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#35 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 02:52:17 pm
Peak/Yorkshire stuff. Don't know if these things are easier for the tall or just hard for the short.

Spring Voyage 7c/+
Buckstone Dyno 7b
Undercut Dyno at the Roaches 7a?
Sausage King of Meersbrook 7c/+
Brass Monkeys 7b+/c
Westworld 7c+/8a
Seans Roof 8a/+
Curious Yellow 7c+
Underworld 7c+
Barry Sheene 7c
Slingshot 8a
Deliverance 7b+
Ben's Wall (RHS) 7c
Work Hard/ Play Hard 8a+/7c
Exocet the proper way 8a+
Cypher 8b
That 8a arete left of Sloping Beauty 8a
Toe-fu 8a+
Welsh Rarebit/Waite 7c
Vicious Streak 8a (I think. I may have been trying it wrong).

Useful list of things i shouldn't bother trying, ta!

36chambers

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#36 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 05:38:23 pm
If you ever find yourself at Brimham there are plenty of good problems which shouldn't punish you for being tall. Off the top of my head:

Crimpy Roof 7b
To Me To You 7c/+
The Grouch 7a/b
Ponce 7b
Pinky traverse flake finish 7b
Mike’s Problem 7b
Titfield thunderbolt 7a+/b
Successor State 7a
Longbow 6/7
Murky Rib ~6b
Jim's Problem 7c/+
Pommel 6c+
Benchmark 7b

Bradders

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#37 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 05:46:38 pm
Brimham

A good list. I'd add:

The Prize - amazing highball, with some scrittle for added spice.
Belly Porker's Progress - bizarrely neglected yet absolutely superb and on some of the very best rock Brimham has to offer.

Will Hunt

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#38 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 06:33:26 pm
 :slap: :chair:

TRIGGERED!

36 "Take the Grade" C with some absolute shockers there. The Grouch is 6C, Successor State highball 6B+, Longbow is 6B+. Great problems but if you came up from London wanting a challenge you'd be disappointed.

teestub

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#39 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 07:31:18 pm
Will again proving, despite all protestations, that he is in fact a lanky fuck  ;D

Footwork

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#40 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 08:11:25 pm
Will again proving, despite all protestations, that he is in fact a lanky fuck  ;D

Will is an entire hand lankier than me (at least this, he was doing his best to slouch). Whilst I can only lightly foreplay the good holds on Brass Monkeys, Will can grab them by the p***y. Fortunately his core is terrible so no send for either of us.

Other problems that come to mind that are easier for Will:

- The Drey 7B+/7C
- Two Squirrels 7B+/7C
- JuJu Club 7B+
- Stretch Armstrong 7B+/7C
- Pistol Whip 7B
- Who Are We Without Moon 7A+




Will Hunt

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#41 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 08:22:43 pm
Shocking set of recommendations (and pure fiction about this "extra hand" that I'm supposed to have - refer again to Ben's belief that anybody with even slightly more reach than him is capable of legendary feats of reach) from Ben there.

The Drey and Two Squirrels are kind of arse scraping traverses where a gangler might conceivably have trouble with dabbing?
JuJu Club is good but I can't see it being noticeably harder for the short, it's just a normal problem.
Pistol Whip - fits the bill but isn't a three star problem and not good for a visitor since you need a tonne of pads to get on it safely.
Who Are We Without Moon - fab problem, but would you forgive anybody who'd recommended that you travel for hours on end from the south coast to get to Baildon? Also, not especially easy for the tall. Just a pop, the type of move at which Ben is terrible.
« Last Edit: December 13, 2018, 08:41:06 pm by Will Hunt »

turnipturned

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#42 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 09:59:07 pm

[/quote]

Would be cool to see a vid of that Dan. Had a quick look at potential for direct finish, which I think is possible, and there's also a line to go on the left that will finish up my highball 7A Dreamgoat. Boulder is filling up nicely.

Sorry about :offtopic:
[/quote]

Hopefully you are on insta.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrV72SOhUOp/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1wrvjx9wom4vr

36chambers

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#43 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 11:16:45 pm
36 "Take the Grade" C with some absolute shockers there. The Grouch is 6C, Successor State highball 6B+, Longbow is 6B+. Great problems but if you came up from London wanting a challenge you'd be disappointed.

You're such a wet leaf.

There's no mention of what grades I "took", or my personal grades in my post, just the general (and somewhat vague) consensus. Not everyone talks in self-righteous absolutes.

36chambers

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#44 Re: A Tall Order
December 13, 2018, 11:39:58 pm
JuJu Club is good but I can't see it being noticeably harder for the short, it's just a normal problem.

This explains a lot. You're clearly lacking in morphological-empathy (for lack of a better word) if you can't appreciate why JuJu might be nails for someone that's not your size :whistle:

ferret

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#45 Re: A Tall Order
December 14, 2018, 01:29:46 am
3/4 of the problems on grit or in font probably fall into the easier for the tall but not a grade easier category. Just pick the best problems or the ones that appeal to you. No list required.

spidermonkey09

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#46 Re: A Tall Order
December 14, 2018, 12:19:43 pm

JuJu Club is good but I can't see it being noticeably harder for the short, it's just a normal problem.
Pistol Whip - fits the bill but isn't a three star problem and not good for a visitor since you need a tonne of pads to get on it safely.


JuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of stature.

And whilst I am yet to tick Pistol Whip, from what I've tried its definitely a three star problem. Gritstone magic! You do need a lot of pads though.

Danny

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#47 Re: A Tall Order
December 14, 2018, 03:57:36 pm


Would be cool to see a vid of that Dan. Had a quick look at potential for direct finish, which I think is possible, and there's also a line to go on the left that will finish up my highball 7A Dreamgoat. Boulder is filling up nicely.

Sorry about :offtopic:
[/quote]

Hopefully you are on insta.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrV72SOhUOp/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1wrvjx9wom4vr
[/quote]

Ah cool Dan. Very floaty. Must have a go at your heel under hand (rather than over) method.

Yossarian

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#48 Re: A Tall Order
December 14, 2018, 10:20:51 pm
This is all totally awesome - many thanks to all contributors.

The Churnet guide arrived today and will have a proper look over the weekend.

The Brimham recommendations (ta 36chambers) have reminded me I need to try to get back there soon...

lagerstarfish

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#49 Re: A Tall Order
December 14, 2018, 10:23:58 pm
I might be a Peak regular, but, if I was was travelling, I'd be looking at Almscliffe and Brimham for an alternative

 

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