IWith average dimensions and the right beta it's 7C (although my righteous opinion won't allow me to admit that).
Not necessarily TMLs (totally morpho lankfests - although I would be delighted with some of those) but definitely problems on which the taller gentleman is not at an immediate disadvantage.
Ah ha! So it's ticks you're after. Well why didn't you say? I can sympathise entirely.So if you live in London and have any sort of family committment, you're probably not looking for a multi-session project in the Peak. For me, the sweet spot of normally being able to do something in a session, but still having it feel like a good tick is about 7B. It would help to know what that level is for you and whether there is any particular style or angle which you favour.
7A-7B is exactly what I have in mind, though something harder at a venue (such as Stanage) where I am likely to return within a few weeks / couple of months would make sense too.
Wonderland (8A) Priest's Cove: tried this a little bit and I think the crux sequence might be quite a stretch for shorties. On that note, Dan, I hear you've done this...did you find it a bit of a stretch?.
As a fellow lank, I would say that the majority of moves are slightly harder easier for lanks, but some are massively easier.
Quote from: Danny on December 11, 2018, 06:29:16 pmWonderland (8A) Priest's Cove: tried this a little bit and I think the crux sequence might be quite a stretch for shorties. On that note, Dan, I hear you've done this...did you find it a bit of a stretch?.Yeah it’s a big move but you have got a big heel. I also did a direct sit which is really cool. Great block, ace location. Tad sharp. I have a video, will post it up sometime!!
What about Marks Roof at Gardoms? Ticks all those boxes, is the right grade, not going to be harder for the tall and stands to be much easier if you've a massive span.
Peak/Yorkshire stuff. Don't know if these things are easier for the tall or just hard for the short. Spring Voyage 7c/+Buckstone Dyno 7bUndercut Dyno at the Roaches 7a?Sausage King of Meersbrook 7c/+Brass Monkeys 7b+/cWestworld 7c+/8aSeans Roof 8a/+Curious Yellow 7c+Underworld 7c+Barry Sheene 7cSlingshot 8aDeliverance 7b+Ben's Wall (RHS) 7cWork Hard/ Play Hard 8a+/7cExocet the proper way 8a+Cypher 8bThat 8a arete left of Sloping Beauty 8aToe-fu 8a+Welsh Rarebit/Waite 7cVicious Streak 8a (I think. I may have been trying it wrong).
Brimham
Will again proving, despite all protestations, that he is in fact a lanky fuck
36 "Take the Grade" C with some absolute shockers there. The Grouch is 6C, Successor State highball 6B+, Longbow is 6B+. Great problems but if you came up from London wanting a challenge you'd be disappointed.
JuJu Club is good but I can't see it being noticeably harder for the short, it's just a normal problem.
JuJu Club is good but I can't see it being noticeably harder for the short, it's just a normal problem.Pistol Whip - fits the bill but isn't a three star problem and not good for a visitor since you need a tonne of pads to get on it safely.
JuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of stature
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on December 14, 2018, 12:19:43 pmJuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of statureI suspect it's just desperate for all. A sit-start groove into a slopey top-out doesn't strike me as the epitome of a tall man's problem (I never got close to it when I was routinely ticking stuff of that grade). Like many problems, I reckon it would be easier if you had short legs and long arms. Short arms and short legs: can't reach and have to do more moves. Long arms and long legs: bunched up and levered outwards from holds.
given the time it takes you to get here (Peak) Yossa, it would be good to have a few backup plans for if things don't work out (weather, skin, time etc) - worth getting a few lists for different circumstancesa few of my ideas for contingency plans/lists (others will have more to add to these)fast drying projects are useful - eg. Hampers Hang - easy to work due to being a traverse and a short walk in. Conan The Librarian, the best mid 6 in The Peak dries quick and makes you feel like a proper climbervery short walk ins sometimes needed to fill in at the end of a day or after plans go wrong - anything at Bbg West. but probably West Side Story and The Nose for your ticks. Banana Finger Direct at Bbg N suits the taller humans (Steve McC said he found it hard). The Curbar Block and Gorilla Warfare pit (Early Doors would be my recommendation)stuff that is in nick when other stuff might not be - eg. the Remergence variations / Blind Date stuff; this place has the benefit of flat landing, short walk in and a few things in your rangestuff that is super safe to work on your own - eg. a few things at Secret Garden - Beach Ball, the traversestuff that doesn't use power, skin, fingers - eg. Deliverance traverseoh, and improve your chances of remembering your hard earned beta by videoing it possibly worth considering somewhere as a warm up routine - locals use the 20ft Crack area of Bbg N and Bbg Bridge - it helps to have somewhere where you know the moves to get yourself ready for the day - if it's a new area for you, do the easiest problems over and over until you feel the force