[Yossarian]

I’m trying to plan a ticklist / plan of attack for 2019 and would like to appeal to the collective wisdom of UKB in the search for suitable problems.

Having spent a quite a lot of my (limited) 2018 outside time trying to contort my 6ft3 frame into positions which it was not designed to be in, I’m unashamedly looking for things that might offer a greater chance of success. Not necessarily TMLs (totally morpho lankfests - although I would be delighted with some of those) but definitely problems on which the taller gentleman is not at an immediate disadvantage.

Grade-wise: mid 6s to 8A (the latter more in the interests of doing a thorough job than my immediate requirements)

Locations: Peak, Yorkshire, Wales, SW, but any more distant suggestions welcome too.

[spidermonkey09]

Fluide at Crow Crag would fit the bill. Still hard for the tall, but definitely harder if you're short.And very good.

[Will Hunt]

As an accredited short-arse, I couldn't possibly comment.

[erm, sam]

Help the Young at Stanage has a tall friendly first and last move

[turnipturned]

Slapstick (8A), Brimham
Vicious Streak (8A), Caley
Chabal (7C+/8A), Gorple
Red Baron Roof (7C+), Shipley Glen probably 7B if you are lanky like Will 
36 Chambers Sit (7C+), Trem
Cindy Crawford (7C), Ilkley
Pinch 32 (7C), Baildon

A few off the top of my head

[andy_e]

Brass Monkeys at Satanage Plantation?

[SA Chris]

Satanage? Sounds like a Devil of a place.

I could name a few, but you'd need to travel...

[Will Hunt]

I think the scope of the question is too broad. You're not looking for totally-morpho-lankfests, i.e. when you tick the problem you don't want to have feel like you cheated; you want to feel like you deserve the grade or feeling of accomplishment. However, outside of this I can't really think of lots and lots of problems where the tall are at an indisputable advantage while still doing the moves that are expected for a problem. It sounds more like you're asking for a list of problems which are not noticeably easier for the tall but which are not very bunched, plus any problems which real tinies have legitimate cause for complaint about. Altogether this list is probably >90% of all problems.

It might help to know what problems you feel like you've been hard done to by.

The only one that springs to mind in Yorkshire is Pebble Wall Variation which is given 7B. However it's not really worth travelling from Otley for, let alone London. And it's not really ideal in that it's a knacky problem where the hard bit for those with the necessary span is actually getting set up in the bunched start position (high feet and low undercuts).

Fluide is a funny one. I found it pretty straightforward but lots of good, non-tiny climbers find it worth the grade. I think the limiting factor is more likely to be how good you are at springing.

The Keel is one that tinies really struggle on. With average dimensions and the right beta it's 7B+.

[Ged]

Sw wise, nether edge and the jungle book in Bovey woods. Both about 7B,and shouldn't leave you feeling to guilty about being tall.  Probably helps but you've still got to climb the buggers.

[Yossarian]

What I am honestly looking for in the short term are things that are one step removed from being totally-morpho-lankfests, and in the medium term, as you say, things that are not very bunched.

I seem to have developed a major mental block when it comes to working on bunched up problems. I had a session at the Cuttings boulderfield on Portland (following an aborted DWS day) and after flailing on a load of sit start things that must’ve been put up by a visiting team of gnomes, I got in the car and drove home. That wasted 8 hours of driving is part of the reason I want to aim for more specific things.

Also, a number of the sandstone things I’ve tried recently - A Killing Joke / Supply and Demand / Patience - whilst maybe not harder for tall people do involve v small holds and small movements. Whereas I think I’m more suited to longer moves off better holds, which are the sort of thing I thought might be suggested.

In an ideal world I’d probably just turn up at a well-stocked venue and look for things that fit the bill, but seeing as long-distance outings (which all of those destinations involve) don’t come about very often and involve loads of planning, I’m trying to stack the deck in my favour.

Help the Young is one of the things already near the top of my list (after near success years ago) so that’s helpful, and there’s already plenty here to consider further.

[andy_e]

IWith average dimensions and the right beta it's 7C (although my righteous opinion won't allow me to admit that).

[bigironhorse]

Deliverance

[SA Chris]

I've always struggled getting established on Deliverance, but that's probably because I'm lanky and shit.

[SA Chris]

If ever you are passing Torridon and conditions are on, The Mission looks good

More chance on that than Malc's Arete for me.

[Will Hunt]

Ah ha! So it's ticks you're after. Well why didn't you say? I can sympathise entirely.

So if you live in London and have any sort of family committment, you're probably not looking for a multi-session project in the Peak. For me, the sweet spot of normally being able to do something in a session, but still having it feel like a good tick is about 7B. It would help to know what that level is for you and whether there is any particular style or angle which you favour.

[T_B]

Not necessarily TMLs (totally morpho lankfests - although I would be delighted with some of those) but definitely problems on which the taller gentleman is not at an immediate disadvantage.

Am I missing something? I'm struggling to think of any problems where being tall puts you at a disadvantage? Or are you confusing being tall with a lack of flexibility?

[Yossarian]

That was badly-worded, and disguising the truth (revealed by Will) that I am basically looking for ticks for tall people.

[Yossarian]

Ah ha! So it's ticks you're after. Well why didn't you say? I can sympathise entirely.

So if you live in London and have any sort of family committment, you're probably not looking for a multi-session project in the Peak. For me, the sweet spot of normally being able to do something in a session, but still having it feel like a good tick is about 7B. It would help to know what that level is for you and whether there is any particular style or angle which you favour.

Yes, ticks. If I don’t get some soon I’m going to eBay my pads and take up competitive barbecuing.

London is a distant 90 minutes north. If there’s a bright centre of the bouldering universe, I’m in the southern seaside resort that it’s farthest from.

7A-7B is exactly what I have in mind, though something harder at a venue (such as Stanage) where I am likely to return within a few weeks / couple of months would make sense too.

[sdm]

The style at Churnet is very favourable for a taller person who can be a bit dynamic.

There are lots of problems that come down to doing fairly big moves between decent holds. Avoid the most low ball roofs and there's not many problems there where being tall isn't an advantage.

There's loads to go at around 7A-7B too.

[T_B]

7A-7B is exactly what I have in mind, though something harder at a venue (such as Stanage) where I am likely to return within a few weeks / couple of months would make sense too.

OK as someone else has said Brass Monkeys is the ultimate soft touch if you're tall. It's a good problem though.

[cheque]

Try Stoney's Minus Ten. I once met a 6ft++ lad there who was on his first visit. He told me he'd never climbed harder than 6A on rock and, inbetween smoking joints and wandering around in the dirt with his climbing shoes (and grey socks) on, was struggling on the easiest problems. Another bloke turned up and began trying Quent's Dyno. My man joined in, did it second try and proceeded to do the other dyno problems first or second go before picking up his pad and heading home, delighted at having improved by more than a number grade in about five minutes. Either I got hustled or those problems are easy for the tall. 

[Danny]

As a fellow lank, I would say that the majority of moves are slightly harder for lanks, but some are massively easier. I'm currently based in the (very) SW. Here's some suggestions from that part of the world:

AWOL (7C) Tintagel: first move of the stand probs a bit easier for the tall.

Blacking out the Friction (7C) Godrevy: first two moves (pre crux) easier for the tall.

Wonderland (8A) Priest's Cove: tried this a little bit and I think the crux sequence might be quite a stretch for shorties. On that note, Dan, I hear you've done this...did you find it a bit of a stretch? OTOH, the crux crimp it utterly brutal, and is not kind to any tips, least of all those attached to big heavy people (assuming Yoss is a regular lank, rather than a Moose-style lank).

If you happen to be at Priest's, I'd shamelessly plug my new ~7B, Ewe-Boat, which is both excellent and features some *quite large* moves. Maybe this FB link will work:

https://www.facebook.com/daniel.barriosoneill/videos/10161094269760246/

J-Lo (7B+) at and Red Quinine (7C) at Northcott both reward a bit of lank too.

[Danny]

On Tint, these lank sequences are mind-blowingly lanky:



You could probs take two grades off AWOL by the method used here!

[tomtom]

Yossarian - I’m 6’3” and have a similar dislike of bunched starts etc... I also climb up to 7B+ on a very good day...

So.... this is problems I like and have done... (apart from topping out WSS)

Burbage
Nose 7A (easier but no path for tall)
West Side Story 7B+
Breakfast 7A
The Arête 7A (higgar not bbg)
Small is Beautiful 7A+
Boyager (7B bit many say 7A+)

Plantation.
Help the Young 7A+
Glass Hour 7A

Curbar
Trackside etc.. (piss at 7A)
Gorilla Warfare/variations
Late Junction 7B
Sean’s Arête 7B+ (felt easier to me)

Frogatt
Downhill racer direct start (7A+/7B I think - cold day needed)

Gardoms
Marks Roof LH 7A

I’ll think of more later if this is the sort of thing you’re after (or are they all a bit obvious..)

[tim palmer]

Imhotep, cuvier.  Almost impossible for the short, ok for the tall so i gather

[Danny]

Opium in Font also, by the looks of it anyway.

[turnipturned]

Wonderland (8A) Priest's Cove: tried this a little bit and I think the crux sequence might be quite a stretch for shorties. On that note, Dan, I hear you've done this...did you find it a bit of a stretch?
.

Yeah it’s a big move but you have got a big heel. I also did a direct sit which is really cool. Great block, ace location. Tad sharp. I have a video, will post it up sometime!!

[36chambers]

As a fellow lank, I would say that the majority of moves are slightly harder easier for lanks, but some are massively easier.

FTFY

[Andy F]

Lets be honest. If you're tall then you're not climbing, you're just lanking. Climbing is the thing people who are of shorter stature do...

[Duma]

Re the tintagel vid, Lewis is the most ridiculously lanky person I've ever climbed with.

[Ru]

Peak/Yorkshire stuff. Don't know if these things are easier for the tall or just hard for the short.

Spring Voyage 7c/+
Buckstone Dyno 7b
Undercut Dyno at the Roaches 7a?
Sausage King of Meersbrook 7c/+
Brass Monkeys 7b+/c
Westworld 7c+/8a
Seans Roof 8a/+
Curious Yellow 7c+
Underworld 7c+
Barry Sheene 7c
Slingshot 8a
Deliverance 7b+
Ben's Wall (RHS) 7c
Work Hard/ Play Hard 8a+/7c
Exocet the proper way 8a+
Cypher 8b
That 8a arete left of Sloping Beauty 8a
Toe-fu 8a+
Welsh Rarebit/Waite 7c
Vicious Streak 8a (I think. I may have been trying it wrong).

[Danny]

Wonderland (8A) Priest's Cove: tried this a little bit and I think the crux sequence might be quite a stretch for shorties. On that note, Dan, I hear you've done this...did you find it a bit of a stretch?
.

Yeah it’s a big move but you have got a big heel. I also did a direct sit which is really cool. Great block, ace location. Tad sharp. I have a video, will post it up sometime!!

Would be cool to see a vid of that Dan. Had a quick look at potential for direct finish, which I think is possible, and there's also a line to go on the left that will finish up my highball 7A Dreamgoat. Boulder is filling up nicely.

Sorry about

[lagerstarfish]

given the time it takes you to get here (Peak) Yossa, it would be good to have a few backup plans for if things don't work out (weather, skin, time etc) - worth getting a few lists for different circumstances

a few of my ideas for contingency plans/lists (others will have more to add to these)

fast drying projects are useful - eg. Hampers Hang - easy to work due to being a traverse and a short walk in. Conan The Librarian, the best mid 6 in The Peak dries quick and makes you feel like a proper climber

very short walk ins sometimes needed to fill in at the end of a day or after plans go wrong - anything at Bbg West. but probably West Side Story and The Nose for your ticks. Banana Finger Direct at Bbg N suits the taller humans (Steve McC said he found it hard). The Curbar Block and Gorilla Warfare pit (Early Doors would be my recommendation)

stuff that is in nick when other stuff might not be - eg. the Remergence variations / Blind Date stuff; this place has the benefit of flat landing, short walk in and a few things in your range

stuff that is super safe to work on your own - eg. a few things at Secret Garden - Beach Ball, the traverse

stuff that doesn't use power, skin, fingers - eg. Deliverance traverse

oh, and improve your chances of remembering your hard earned beta by videoing it

possibly worth considering somewhere as a warm up routine - locals use the 20ft Crack area of Bbg N and Bbg Bridge  - it helps to have somewhere where you know the moves to get yourself ready for the day - if it's a new area for you, do the easiest problems over and over until you feel the force

[Will Hunt]

What about Marks Roof at Gardoms? Ticks all those boxes, is the right grade, not going to be harder for the tall and stands to be much easier if you've a massive span.

[lagerstarfish]

What about Marks Roof at Gardoms? Ticks all those boxes, is the right grade, not going to be harder for the tall and stands to be much easier if you've a massive span.

and you can work the crux from standing

I'd be careful on Marks Roof LH - the finishing flake feels like it has a bit of movement that might not tolerate a larger athlete

[highrepute]

Peak/Yorkshire stuff. Don't know if these things are easier for the tall or just hard for the short.

Spring Voyage 7c/+
Buckstone Dyno 7b
Undercut Dyno at the Roaches 7a?
Sausage King of Meersbrook 7c/+
Brass Monkeys 7b+/c
Westworld 7c+/8a
Seans Roof 8a/+
Curious Yellow 7c+
Underworld 7c+
Barry Sheene 7c
Slingshot 8a
Deliverance 7b+
Ben's Wall (RHS) 7c
Work Hard/ Play Hard 8a+/7c
Exocet the proper way 8a+
Cypher 8b
That 8a arete left of Sloping Beauty 8a
Toe-fu 8a+
Welsh Rarebit/Waite 7c
Vicious Streak 8a (I think. I may have been trying it wrong).

Useful list of things i shouldn't bother trying, ta!

[36chambers]

If you ever find yourself at Brimham there are plenty of good problems which shouldn't punish you for being tall. Off the top of my head:

Crimpy Roof 7b
To Me To You 7c/+
The Grouch 7a/b
Ponce 7b
Pinky traverse flake finish 7b
Mike’s Problem 7b
Titfield thunderbolt 7a+/b
Successor State 7a
Longbow 6/7
Murky Rib ~6b
Jim's Problem 7c/+
Pommel 6c+
Benchmark 7b

[Bradders]

Brimham

A good list. I'd add:

The Prize - amazing highball, with some scrittle for added spice.
Belly Porker's Progress - bizarrely neglected yet absolutely superb and on some of the very best rock Brimham has to offer.

[Will Hunt]

 

TRIGGERED!

36 "Take the Grade" C with some absolute shockers there. The Grouch is 6C, Successor State highball 6B+, Longbow is 6B+. Great problems but if you came up from London wanting a challenge you'd be disappointed.

[teestub]

Will again proving, despite all protestations, that he is in fact a lanky fuck 

[Footwork]

Will again proving, despite all protestations, that he is in fact a lanky fuck 

Will is an entire hand lankier than me (at least this, he was doing his best to slouch). Whilst I can only lightly foreplay the good holds on Brass Monkeys, Will can grab them by the p***y. Fortunately his core is terrible so no send for either of us.

Other problems that come to mind that are easier for Will:

- The Drey 7B+/7C
- Two Squirrels 7B+/7C
- JuJu Club 7B+
- Stretch Armstrong 7B+/7C
- Pistol Whip 7B
- Who Are We Without Moon 7A+

[Will Hunt]

Shocking set of recommendations (and pure fiction about this "extra hand" that I'm supposed to have - refer again to Ben's belief that anybody with even slightly more reach than him is capable of legendary feats of reach) from Ben there.

The Drey and Two Squirrels are kind of arse scraping traverses where a gangler might conceivably have trouble with dabbing?
JuJu Club is good but I can't see it being noticeably harder for the short, it's just a normal problem.
Pistol Whip - fits the bill but isn't a three star problem and not good for a visitor since you need a tonne of pads to get on it safely.
Who Are We Without Moon - fab problem, but would you forgive anybody who'd recommended that you travel for hours on end from the south coast to get to Baildon? Also, not especially easy for the tall. Just a pop, the type of move at which Ben is terrible.

[turnipturned]

[/quote]

Would be cool to see a vid of that Dan. Had a quick look at potential for direct finish, which I think is possible, and there's also a line to go on the left that will finish up my highball 7A Dreamgoat. Boulder is filling up nicely.

Sorry about
[/quote]

Hopefully you are on insta.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrV72SOhUOp/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1wrvjx9wom4vr

[36chambers]

36 "Take the Grade" C with some absolute shockers there. The Grouch is 6C, Successor State highball 6B+, Longbow is 6B+. Great problems but if you came up from London wanting a challenge you'd be disappointed.

You're such a wet leaf.

There's no mention of what grades I "took", or my personal grades in my post, just the general (and somewhat vague) consensus. Not everyone talks in self-righteous absolutes.

[36chambers]

JuJu Club is good but I can't see it being noticeably harder for the short, it's just a normal problem.

This explains a lot. You're clearly lacking in morphological-empathy (for lack of a better word) if you can't appreciate why JuJu might be nails for someone that's not your size

[ferret]

3/4 of the problems on grit or in font probably fall into the easier for the tall but not a grade easier category. Just pick the best problems or the ones that appeal to you. No list required.

[spidermonkey09]

JuJu Club is good but I can't see it being noticeably harder for the short, it's just a normal problem.
Pistol Whip - fits the bill but isn't a three star problem and not good for a visitor since you need a tonne of pads to get on it safely.

JuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of stature.

And whilst I am yet to tick Pistol Whip, from what I've tried its definitely a three star problem. Gritstone magic! You do need a lot of pads though.

[Danny]

Would be cool to see a vid of that Dan. Had a quick look at potential for direct finish, which I think is possible, and there's also a line to go on the left that will finish up my highball 7A Dreamgoat. Boulder is filling up nicely.

Sorry about
[/quote]

Hopefully you are on insta.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrV72SOhUOp/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1wrvjx9wom4vr
[/quote]

Ah cool Dan. Very floaty. Must have a go at your heel under hand (rather than over) method.

[Yossarian]

This is all totally awesome - many thanks to all contributors.

The Churnet guide arrived today and will have a proper look over the weekend.

The Brimham recommendations (ta 36chambers) have reminded me I need to try to get back there soon...

[lagerstarfish]

I might be a Peak regular, but, if I was was travelling, I'd be looking at Almscliffe and Brimham for an alternative

[moose]

JuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of stature

I suspect it's just desperate for all.  A sit-start groove into a slopey top-out doesn't strike me as the epitome of a tall man's problem (I never got close to it when I was routinely ticking stuff of that grade).  Like many problems, I reckon it would be easier if you had short legs and long arms.  Short arms and short legs: can't reach and have to do more moves.  Long arms and long legs: bunched up and levered outwards from holds.

[tomtom]

JuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of stature

I suspect it's just desperate for all.  A sit-start groove into a slopey top-out doesn't strike me as the epitome of a tall man's problem (I never got close to it when I was routinely ticking stuff of that grade).  Like many problems, I reckon it would be easier if you had short legs and long arms.  Short arms and short legs: can't reach and have to do more moves.  Long arms and long legs: bunched up and levered outwards from holds.

Yup. Horrible for me. Yuk.

One for those 5’10” +6 ape monsters.

Or Will Hunt

[Yossarian]

given the time it takes you to get here (Peak) Yossa, it would be good to have a few backup plans for if things don't work out (weather, skin, time etc) - worth getting a few lists for different circumstances

a few of my ideas for contingency plans/lists (others will have more to add to these)

fast drying projects are useful - eg. Hampers Hang - easy to work due to being a traverse and a short walk in. Conan The Librarian, the best mid 6 in The Peak dries quick and makes you feel like a proper climber

very short walk ins sometimes needed to fill in at the end of a day or after plans go wrong - anything at Bbg West. but probably West Side Story and The Nose for your ticks. Banana Finger Direct at Bbg N suits the taller humans (Steve McC said he found it hard). The Curbar Block and Gorilla Warfare pit (Early Doors would be my recommendation)

stuff that is in nick when other stuff might not be - eg. the Remergence variations / Blind Date stuff; this place has the benefit of flat landing, short walk in and a few things in your range

stuff that is super safe to work on your own - eg. a few things at Secret Garden - Beach Ball, the traverse

stuff that doesn't use power, skin, fingers - eg. Deliverance traverse

oh, and improve your chances of remembering your hard earned beta by videoing it

possibly worth considering somewhere as a warm up routine - locals use the 20ft Crack area of Bbg N and Bbg Bridge  - it helps to have somewhere where you know the moves to get yourself ready for the day - if it's a new area for you, do the easiest problems over and over until you feel the force

That all sounds like excellent advice. I’ve not been to Secret Garden since the summer of 1995! The whole thing is really about preparation and tactics, and i’m feeling much better equipped now.