the shizzle > coaching

Most effective way to raise concerns about a coach?

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Rocksteady:
Bit of a weird one. I was belaying at the climbing wall a little while ago next to a performance coach belaying one of the youth squad.

She was tying in and I overheard I conversation that I think is way out of line with best practice.

Something like:
Him: "What is going on there?" (pointing at little roll of fat above girl's harness)
Her: "It's my six pack."
Him: "It's not a six pack. You have been eating too many crisps."
Her: "I don't even like crisps."

Now at this point I had to catch my falling partner and was distracted. I didn't speak to the coach at the time as I should have done. But the more I think about it the more I think this needs to be addressed. This was a pre-pubescent girl he was talking to, and she was climbing reps on 7b so was going quite well for her age, and I'm pretty sure at her age it would be totally healthy to be carrying a bit of extra weight.

In any event, it shows a disastrous lack of awareness of body issues in climbing, particularly young female climbers, that needs to be resolved.

I don't have a view on whether or not this guy is otherwise a good coach. He clearly needs some training on this issue. It could have been banter and in line with their relationship but I wonder what her parents would think?

The only complicating factor is that I am closely related to an independent climbing coach who occasionally works at this wall. This genuinely isn't a factor in me raising feedback but I'm concerned that because of who I am they might consider this to be a motivation and (a) not take it seriously and (b) badmouth my relative. I could raise it via anonymous feedback to their comments tin - my concern there is that this would come in front of the wrong people which would be unfair to the coach concerned and also not see any action taken. I could do the same via an anonymous email but again would be good to see action taken.

Probably I'm overcomplicating this and should just go and chat to the wall manager. What are people's views?

tomtom:
Tough one...

I'd be tempted to go to the wall manager and just say what you heard (and described above). Let him/her be the judge of whether or not that was in/out of line. May well be as you pointed out (a) bantz (I hate that word) or (b) out of line or the coach may even have a bit of form for this...
In my view people learn from being called out on saying something wrong/inappropriate (I've been called out on it before and learnt from it) so I'd see it as a positive thing rather than stirring/telling tales.

webbo:
Tough one. Would a sports teacher at school be out of order pointing this out or is it case of how it should be broached.
I think at least it should be pointed out that a discussion like this should not be done in a public environment.

thekettle:

--- Quote from: tomtom on June 28, 1970, 06:12:59 pm ---In my view people learn from being called out on saying something wrong/inappropriate (I've been called out on it before and learnt from it) so I'd see it as a positive thing rather than stirring/telling tales.

--- End quote ---

I'm not sure I'd agree with calling out leading to learning, unless it's private, or the recipient is very reflective and humble. Publicly it can lead to a defensive response, which in turn can lead to 'digging in' and entrenching of their own opinion.

Either way it's pretty shocking behaviour and even as banter is playing with fire - a quiet word when no-one else can hear, or a word with the manager if you think they can deliver the message appropriately may be the way forward. Even if it's just casually raising the topic of body image issues among female climbers and adolescents - such as this article:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/growing_pains_-_the_weight_of_womanhood-10942
or the recent shocking stat that 43% of elite (8a upward) female climbers showed symptoms of eating disorders, compared to 4.6% of the general population
https://www.climbing.com/news/disordered-eating-poses-a-danger-to-climbers/
Just a chat about that may trigger some reflection and a behaviour change in the future (I would hope).

jwi:
Here's the deal: do not say anything in public about other peoples appearance. This is really basic. Even more basic is that the only one who's any right to call you fat is your doctor. To comment on someone's weight from a position of power is so wrong that the mind boggles.

Raised by wolves one imagine.

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