UKBouldering.com

New hardest slab in the world? (Read 3854 times)

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 11:17:26 am
Alessandro Zeni proposes 9a+ for "Ernegica Cosmica" in the Dolomites. I can't understand from the photo if this is indeed a slab or if it is a face climb.

https://www.grimper.com/news-alessandro-zeni-propose-9a-dalle-les-dolomites?fbclid=IwAR0n4RLuKCkENuCZrKS0haEJyl7chdZ8_JKggfiu9LnwaKsVviVXvYdKUlQ

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#1 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 11:22:13 am
"le crux sordide"

 :2thumbsup:

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13414
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#2 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 11:47:51 am
Slab vs face definitely matters!

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#3 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 11:51:30 am
From some pictures I saw on IG it looks more like a face, albeit off vertical. But all the action shots are taken looking down, which always makes it hard to tell.

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1726
  • Karma: +166/-6
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#4 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 12:42:37 pm
I don't think you'd be using holds that large on a 9a+ slab  ;)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#5 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 01:57:58 pm
What was regarded as previous hardest? Bain de Sang? Which doesn't look too much like a slab either.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#6 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 04:17:15 pm
Is there some mistranslation going on? Can "dalle" mean a blank, monolithic sheet of rock, even if its vertical?

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#7 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 04:25:02 pm
Can anyone link to pictures of the route in question? The picture of the guy on JWI's link is apparently of a different route called (majestically for 9th-grade route) Bimbaluna.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#8 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 04:33:05 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BqVOZf5hDNT/

Verdict: Not a slab. Sorry.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#9 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 04:37:13 pm
No, but an amazing looking sheet of rock.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13414
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#10 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 04:40:31 pm
Thanks for clearing that up. Not a slab = logpile thread  :goodidea:

Bain De Sang is a vertical wall too, has it had much attention apart from Josune's repeat?

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
#11 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 04:45:00 pm
Is there some mistranslation going on? Can "dalle" mean a blank, monolithic sheet of rock, even if its vertical?

"Platte" in German certainly can

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#12 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 04:48:28 pm
Bain De Sang is a vertical wall too, has it had much attention apart from Josune's repeat?

16 repeats according to http://escalade9.wifeo.com/bain-de-sang.php



The original report I linked to wrote dalle, which is definitely a slab. Face is mur.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#13 Re: New hardest slab in the world?
November 21, 2018, 04:53:30 pm
Is there some mistranslation going on? Can "dalle" mean a blank, monolithic sheet of rock, even if its vertical?

"Platte" in German certainly can

That may have been what I was thinking of.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal