[Bradders]

Patina Turner at Earl? Fluid Dynamics at Chevin. They don't get much crimpier than Tom Peckitt test pieces! Banana Republic as well. Have you done Zoo York?

I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though.... I see this all the time and it's certainly something that used to play a significant part in my own approach. However, I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them. There will almost always be someone who comes along to offer the dreaded downgrade after all

Coincidentally (or not?!), my biggest breakthroughs have also come by focusing more on lines and movement that I find inspiring. Or problems that I just get psyched for and can't explain why! How many of the classic straight up 8As have you done? Or 7C+s for that matter?! 7C+ is, I think, a really hard grade in the UK generally speaking.

I wouldn't so readily dismiss link ups either; if they offer a challenge or movement that you enjoy, and crucially you can get to them easily, then why not?!

You could try things that you just find hard as well, regardless of grade. For example, I'm terrible at slabs and technical walls so am trying to spend more time on that style, even though it means dropping at least three grades from what I've previously projected! Don't let other people's cynicism (or your own) keep you from trying things you enjoy or which will help you improve as a climber.

[cheque]

I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though... I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them.

We haven't all reached your level of enlightenment yet sensei. 

[Will Hunt]

 

Right on, line-loving brother. Riiiight on.

Except the bit about Patina Turner. Tom has done some spectacular problems in Yorkshire, he's also done some spectacularly shit ones. From the comfort of my 7th grade punterdom, I can say with complete conviction that Patina Turner is the latter. It's more like a museum piece that serves to showcase the limits of the human obsession with the minging crimp.

[nai]

I don't know how Sean's isn't a straight-up (i.e. not a link), though obviously it's steep so not "straight up" in the most literal sense of the word. It's also 8A with a knee (not sure whether highrepute would or wouldn't be tall enough for the knee), but totally ace.

I meant IRT isn't straight up or crimpy.  I'm not in any way qualified to suggest anything really not being nowhere near good enough for 8A+ and knowing little about highrepute's climbing but Sean's seemed to qualify as an independent, non eliminate problem. And IRT looks a great feature at the right grade but clearly fails on the straight up crieria 

[Smith42]

Wed Managed new PB of 5 pull ups  on BM45s, well past my previous PB of 1!
Day must of been really sticky cos also made progress on 55deg woody on couple of my project.
   
Sat, day 3 on my MTG out doors project, managed all moves but powering out.

Sun, walked round wet rock at Brimham, some dry stuff but mainly things iv done. Tried The Fonze, couldnt do a single move but skin was really cold by this point, maybe new LTG.

[Bradders]

We haven't all reached your level of enlightenment yet sensei. 

Haha don't get me wrong I've been really bad for focusing on grades in the past. I remember hunting down 7As in Font like my life depended on it.

[abarro81]

I meant IRT isn't straight up or crimpy. 

Ah got ya, my poor reading!

[36chambers]

...

is this addressed to highrepute or me?

[tim palmer]

I think patina turner might massively harder for anyone shorter than tom, regardless of quality.  Cherry falls is also much harder for those under 5'9".

Rhythm is the most obvious candidate to me.

[highrepute]

Patina Turner at Earl? Fluid Dynamics at Chevin. They don't get much crimpier than Tom Peckitt test pieces! Banana Republic as well. Have you done Zoo York?

I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though.... I see this all the time and it's certainly something that used to play a significant part in my own approach. However, I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them. There will almost always be someone who comes along to offer the dreaded downgrade after all

Coincidentally (or not?!), my biggest breakthroughs have also come by focusing more on lines and movement that I find inspiring. Or problems that I just get psyched for and can't explain why! How many of the classic straight up 8As have you done? Or 7C+s for that matter?! 7C+ is, I think, a really hard grade in the UK generally speaking.

I wouldn't so readily dismiss link ups either; if they offer a challenge or movement that you enjoy, and crucially you can get to them easily, then why not?!

You could try things that you just find hard as well, regardless of grade. For example, I'm terrible at slabs and technical walls so am trying to spend more time on that style, even though it means dropping at least three grades from what I've previously projected! Don't let other people's cynicism (or your own) keep you from trying things you enjoy or which will help you improve as a climber.

The state you describe is merely a lowly rung on the ladder to enlightenment, young one. Remember Sharma rejected grades once but he uses them again now. Once your ego has let the grade go as a value indicator of one's self you can return to grades merely as a means to assign difficultly to climbs. And as difficulty is what I persue in climbing, grades are the measure I use.

[Bradders]

...

is this addressed to highrepute or me?

Well, both of you I suppose. More of a general self righteous statement though.

The state you describe is merely a lowly rung on the ladder to enlightenment, young one. Remember Sharma rejected grades once but he uses them again now. Once your ego has let the grade go as a value indicator of one's self you can return to grades merely as a means to assign difficultly to climbs. And as difficulty is what I persue in climbing, grades are the measure I use.

Haha, fair enough. We'll see.

[Fiend]

I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though.... I see this all the time and it's certainly something that used to play a significant part in my own approach. However, I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them.

That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.

[shark]

That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.

You are easily confused then.

[tomtom]

That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.

You are easily confused then.

Does this mean you wouldn’t be bothering with Das Oak if it were 8a+?

[36chambers]

That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.

Well you have to start somewhere.

[SA Chris]

M- FA, worked until 10pm. Fucking deadlines
T - deadline met by 11, so celebratory lunchtime run. Usual 6.5 k trails, love that loop.
W - wall session. Actually climbed fairly well.
T - Thrashed myself with free weights at home, tough session.
F - 5.5k in woods. great to be out. Picked some more lichen off a boulder i found, could soon be a go-er.
S - DOMs. Ran 2 k with Kyle on bike
S - walk. Started fingerboard session in evening, but bicep feels tweaky, so cut it short.

[nai]

Back on topic.
What about 8 Ball? Does feature traversing and might not be as crimpy as you like but easy access, in nick dry and workable fairly frequently and the bonus of getting Moon, Moffatt and Al Williams ticks in a oner

[shark]

Does this mean you wouldn’t be bothering with Das Oak if it were 8a+?

Not everything I say is Oak related.

It would be legitimate, for example, to say I’ve climbed several 7C’s and fancy a 7C+. Any recommendations?

[Footwork]

James

Maybe an 8B in magic wood would suit you? Riverbed / Riders of the Storm? Nice and workable/ soft touch. Plenty of specialised training and a few trips to do it?

Close to home - The Ace? You could get on Fat Lip, seems a popular 8B.

In Wales Isles of Wonder (and Madame Allure) look class and could keep you psyched.

[lagerstarfish]

I've been doing regular movement recently - probably worth having a go on here

M- conventional deadlifting - a few sets of bodyweight lifts, experimenting with different amounts of leg bend, trying to find what feels most like snowboarding - a bit of cardio - dumbell complexes
Tu - Burbage South Boulders. Plenty of easy stuff. managed a to get a video of Puck crouch start, which I think is an underated quality problem. Got the start of The Sheep done, but got too scared to finish it (looking into the sun etc).
W - Beavers - 8B looking after other peoples kids (training my uniformed paramilitary group for the post-Brexit apocalypse)
Th - am Burbage North. Dead Tree traverses, Remergence and Tiny Slab action between school run and work
F - that tanqueray sevilla gin that Tesco have on offer - probably the only gin that I like more than my wife does
Sa - Apparent North for the last bit of daylight - got carried away with the friction - numerous trips across the lower traverse to R of Hampers using slopey rail in fun ways plus several footless versions of the hang bit of Hampers - pointless, but fun and easy due to friction
Su - Awesome walls auto belays while lad was at a party at SUFC academy - proper easy plodding due to toes, fingers and elbows hurting

[Fiend]

Shark, maybe you should be replying to Bradder's more detailed and eloquent post rather than mine??

[Murph]

Welcome to the club James and lagers!

Been a bit slack over the last week - 1 (v enjoyable) hour at trackside, two sessions at the wall, ran to work twice and did kettlebells once. No trx and haven’t stuck those micros up in the garage like I promised. This week hasn’t been amazing this far either but I’m sure I’ll find the groove again soon.

Stay powerful everyone.

[measles23]

the third looks a bit rubbish

Woody’s is lovely place to hang out and VS is cool 

Although I admit to having  a slightly perverse idea of cool.. it’s a bit shit if you don’t have a good heel

[highrepute]

I'd like to question why you'd get psyched for a particular grade though.... I see this all the time and it's certainly something that used to play a significant part in my own approach. However, I've come to the view that because grades are such ethereal things, open to interpretation and bias amongst all sorts of other human traits, it just doesn't seem sensible to peg one's aspirations to them.

That's pretty much exactly what I wrote on a previous page and then deleted. Having a grade without a project/line in mind is bewildering.

I have plenty of lines in mind but they all have their grade in common so I wrote that down.

Anyway why am I getting flack. The world's best climbers are always on about grades...9c, 9a+ onsight, all the 8s in a day. It's an essential part of climbing.

[highrepute]

James

Maybe an 8B in magic wood would suit you? Riverbed / Riders of the Storm? Nice and workable/ soft touch. Plenty of specialised training and a few trips to do it?

Close to home - The Ace? You could get on Fat Lip, seems a popular 8B.

In Wales Isles of Wonder (and Madame Allure) look class and could keep you psyched.

I didn't like Magic Wood when I went. If we're talking about "lines" then I thought magic wood was shockingly short of them, unless crawling into the back of a cave then shuffling out counts as a line! But I have few things in mind in font to try.

The others you mention be good to try.

Back on topic.
What about 8 Ball? Does feature traversing and might not be as crimpy as you like but easy access, in nick dry and workable fairly frequently and the bonus of getting Moon, Moffatt and Al Williams ticks in a oner

Good idea. Worth checking out for sure.

the third looks a bit rubbish

Woody’s is lovely place to hang out and VS is cool 

Although I admit to having  a slightly perverse idea of cool.. it’s a bit shit if you don’t have a good heel

Not sure about VS but the eastern stuff can work well for me as I work out that way.