[slab_happy]

Context: I'm a boulderer trying to learn to do other things too. Not surprisingly, I get pumped really quickly and recover poorly. I infer that my aerobic capacity is probably very weak, for starters.

I've got a fingerboard and pulley system at home, and have discovered that I can wake up, drink some coffee, and do 20 mins Aerocap (using the protocol from the Crimpd app, repeaters at 40% of your max) while still in my pyjamas and fuzzy bedsocks.

Any reason I shouldn't do this daily? It's not using time/energy I'd be spending on other training, as I'm not capable of that until I've consumed a lot more coffee, and it's separated by several hours from any other climbing or training, so there should be limited interference effects. And it's not tiring me out or affecting my ability to perform/train well later.

I can't see a reason not to, but I thought I'd put it out there and consult the wisdom of UKB.

[ghisino]

i've never trained aerocap or a similar long-endurance on a fb.

when training it by climbing routes/circuits, for me there is a moment when i know i am doing too much of it (at least in a short term perspective)

the signs are:
+i can hold on forever and effectively shake on relatively bad holds

BUT

-i feel stiff, slow.
-i am not able to "shift gears" effectively to attack an incoming crux section
-as my onsight grade goes up, my redpoint abilities go down.


I am curious to know if at some point you experience the same effects, as i suspect that many of them are rather related to technique/climbing habits rather than to the shape of the forearm