[TobyD]

Hello all, just scouting some general options, I'm going to S France general area in October, wondered if anyone had any recommendations for crags I might not have been to at all? Grades roughly 7a-8a mainly, but more interested in quality really.
Vague general idea was Gorges du Tarn / St Leger, both of which are obviously excellent, but I'd like to go somewhere I've really done almost nothing or never been to at all if possible, and I've spent a bit of time at both of these. Buoux(have been to but not much)  is a possible, but feel slightly averse to spending 2 weeks getting my ass handed to me as its all pockets!
Some possibles might be Russan / Malucene / Jonte .... I'm told there are some good places near Valence, but don't know any details. Any ideas appreciated. Many thanks T

[abarro81]

Some random thoughts from my "places to go to on a trip someday" list.. bear in mind that I can't vouch for quality or suitability, and that with some of them I can't even remember what they are or why I wrote them down... just places to look into:

Baume rousse
La Carrier (can't remember where this is or why I put it on my list)
Mollans
Lourmarin
Venasque
Supermarche (hard to get topo?)
Pierrot beach (too far north?)
La balme (too far north? next to a road too)
Tina dale (can't remember where this is)
Romeyer (can't remember where this is)
St Antonin(can't remember where this is)
St martin de vesubie (tufas, nr Nice)
Jonte could be combined with Cantobre (which is basically a mini Buoux)
St Guilhem (not sure where this is or why I wrote it down but it's on the same list as tarn/jonte so guess it may be that bit of the world?)

Prob not much use but you never know!

[Teaboy]

The other thing with Buoux is that there are limited shade options. We combined Russan, Seynes and Claret in one visit but they too (the first two certainly) get a lot of sun. I didn't like Claret at all but I think I'm resentful of spending 16 euro on a topo.

[petejh]

Gorge du Jonte is brilliant Toby - lots of adventurous multi pitch 7s. Tarn just around the corner too.

Also nearby is Le Boffi which I thought was amazing!

[jwi]

St Antonin(can't remember where this is)

An hour north of Toulouse, two hours west of Gorges du Tarn (drive via Rodez).
October is probably the best month to go. La Croix is likely the best sector for long Tufa routes in the 7b+ to 8a range that I ever climbed at. Pity that the season is six weeks (mid september until the rain starts, probably early november). Super Manjoc is very good as well for shorter and steeper stuff, but apart from a soft 8a+ it's mostly out of the 7a-8a range.

I put together a (very bad) topo for super manjoc here https://27crags.com/crags/manjo-carn/topos/super-manjoc

There is a topo for La Croix here  http://climbmaps.com/

[jwi]

Also nearby is Le Boffi which I thought was amazing!

For Boffi, it may be prudent to check the situation with the pine processary before going. Last year it wasn't safe to approach the crag from above.

[mrjonathanr]

Les Gorges du Verdon. Perfect month at a perfect crag.

[jwi]

Les Gorges du Verdon. Perfect month at a perfect crag.

The best crag in the world, in fact.

[Wood FT]

Les Gorges du Verdon. Perfect month at a perfect crag.

I agree, but I do notice you seem to have spelt Tarn wrong

[TobyD]

Great thanks for all the suggestions... La Croix sounds very interesting. Venasque is supposed to be decent. I've looked round cantobre boffi and jonte on a rest day from Tarn, but the caterpillars seem to be a big issue there at the moment? Don't fancy getting hospitalised because of flipping creepy crawlies! Verdon is great, done a week of long classic things there, and a day at a steep tufa sector ( might have been Hulk) is any of the other single pitch sport stuff good in October?

[tomrainbow]

Hi Toby. I love the climbing at La Croix and, on one occasion, drove from St Antonin to the Tarn, spent one day there and then drove straight back to St Antonin. It can be a little dirty early in the season but by October, the majority of the lines will be in a good state and almost everything from Ultimate Game to Titantic is *** (about 100 routes) and between 7b+ and 8a+.

There are some other good crags in the valley - Roc d'Anglars is really polished but has some classic routes, Cazals and Couyrac which are across the river from La Croix is good, friendly and has many ** routes, but sika is commonplace on this crag unfortunately.

About 1 hr N is The Lot valley - St Gery is an amazing crag with tons to go at in the 7a to 8a+ grade range. It's in a beautiful setting, low stress and the rock is often perfect.

[jwi]

I wouldn't exactly leave Tarn for Anglars... But for La Croix I could. I agree that Saint Gery is worth a visit, especially the routes on the sector "Big Wall".

In Verdon both Hulk and Ramirole are probably in good nick, but my impression of Ramirole is that is more a crag for 8a and up than the opposite. (Again I've only been there one day and it was in spring, so mostly wet)

In Provence: The crags in Malaucène are OK, but not more (I've only been there one day though...). Mollans is good but maybe too hot in October.

[Wood FT]

About 1 hr N is The Lot valley - St Gery is an amazing crag with tons to go at in the 7a to 8a+ grade range. It's in a beautiful setting, low stress and the rock is often perfect.

Good suggestion, was told the same by Ged. We spent a day in the rain walking under the cliffs at St Gery, it looked very good and extensive with easy access - I'm planning on going back. Some loooonnngggg routes too.

[Ged]

St gery definitely worth a visit. Enough for a week easily.

Malaucene is pretty average.

Some.of the newer sectors at orpierre look pretty good.

Buoux is fairly unbeatable I think.

[TobyD]

St gery definitely worth a visit. Enough for a week easily.

Had a look on a wet day, really keen to go there on a separate trip sometime.

Thanks all for the advice and ideas. Thought La Croix was amazing. Also liked Cazals despite the sika, it's great for a change from la Croix. Anglars I thought was okay, but definitely not somewhere I'd rush back to. The other crags particularly la Croix I would rush back to! Beautiful area as well.

[Ged]

Is there much easier stuff/baby friendly stuff Toby?

[jwi]

At la croix or? Sector Extreme Gauche is fine with small children. There's some routes from 5 to 7a at Sector Classique. St Gery is ok in the sixes I think

[TobyD]

At la croix or? Sector Extreme Gauche is fine with small children. There's some routes from 5 to 7a at Sector Classique. St Gery is ok in the sixes I think

Meaty bits of La Croix, not so much. Pretty much 7a and up and exposed ledges and cables etc to deal with. As jwi says really. Cazals would be okay, as would Couyrac, St Gery and Anglars.  Easy to go to two crags in a day the walk ins are all about 5 minutes