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strapped for time, 2 sessions in a day... (Read 2197 times)

Ged

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strapped for time, 2 sessions in a day...
October 21, 2018, 07:29:05 pm
Off the back of listening to Tom Randall and Olli Tor(r?) on the trainingbeta podcast, I was having a think about their suggestion of two shorter sessions in a day, when strapped for time a bit (my current situation; fair bit of work, and a new baby).  They talked about maybe a strength sesh of half an hour of max hangs in the morning, and some sort of endurance in the eve.  I can imagine this approach working for me, and certainly quite keen to try.  Just wandering how best to structure it.  My goals are very much in need of ferocious strength and power, with a smattering of PE (basically stuff like tuppence and fishermans at ansteys). 

So do we think, focus one day on one thing (i.e. max hangs in the morning, really hard repeaters in the evening, or maybe some basic campussing type stuff in my shed in evening, and then a differnt day for more endurance type stuff), or strength in the morning, some sort of PE/ancap stuff in the eve?  Interested to hear thoughts.

Also interested to hear of any useful supplementary type exercises (TRX more than the standard IYT protocol) that people  have benefitted from.  I've been experimenting with some fairly basic lifting exercises with kettle bells, and seems to be helping a bit.  Looking more for inspiration to keep me motivated while in the "new baby only training at home and climbing fairly infrequently but wanting to crush when I do" phase. 

Ged

abarro81

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Depends on whether you're training multiple days on IMO.
If doing, for example, Tues and Thurs I would do Strength am, endurance or ancap pm. If doing Tues and Weds I would do Strength Tues am, Strength Tues pm, An cap Weds am, Enduro Weds pm... Standard thing of scheduling it so the most strengthy stuff comes when freshest...

Ged

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Good plan. Would you worry too much about trying to differentiate between strength and power? I've got access to a very good 50 degree board, but can't really plan when I'll be able to train there, and when it'll just be at home. I was vaguely trying to do the Steve Bechtel strength power endurance thing. But thinking I'm reality it'll be strength/ power x2, then endurance.

Ged

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In. Addition I've always been very much an endurance climber. Current situation means that short routes and boulders will be the focus for a while. So given time constraints, sack off any longer endurance stuff completely, or worth still trying to get in a sesh per week of 30 seconds on 30 seconds off feet on campussing or similar?

Sorry for the ramblings, any advice greatly received

T_B

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Just sack it all off and take up cycling/running  :wavecry:

Seriously I reckon it’s always worth maintaining some fitness. You don’t need to do much. Autobelays are your friend.

I’ve always had crap results trying to combine deadhanging/campussing with a later session of bouldering or short 12 - 16 move circuits. When I was doing two sessions a day the later session would work best if longer PE or enduro.

But I’m old/crap. The whole two sess per day thing is hard when you’re older/need more recovery. You’re never properly rested if you’ve got a baby.

kingholmesy

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You’re never properly rested if you’ve got a baby.

Ain’t that the truth.

Ps - congrats Ged on becoming a dad.  Good to see the psyche is still high too.

 

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