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First time in NYM (Read 2361 times)

Will Hunt

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First time in NYM
October 20, 2018, 06:01:41 pm
Probably heading up tomorrow for some bouldering. Never been before. Which is the biggest, most banging crag? I love a bit of esoterica, but since I've not been before I want to get to the Caley/Plantation of the area.

tomtom

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#1 Re: First time in NYM
October 20, 2018, 06:07:23 pm
There’s a couple of threads about this already. I’ve started one once - and I think there was another...

Will Hunt

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#2 Re: First time in NYM
October 20, 2018, 07:07:49 pm
The verdict appears to be that the Moors is toss for bouldering bangers. Except Clemmit's which is now banned. Slipstones it is.

Bradders

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#3 Re: First time in NYM
October 20, 2018, 07:49:00 pm
Only two places I've been in NYMs are Ingleby Incline and Stoup Brow.

I thought Ingleby was very good provided you don't get lost and don't mind walking about 2 miles along a track you could so easily drive down. Sleepy Hollow is an absolute belter of a problem and there are plenty of others in a reasonably compact area.

Stoup Brow is a much shorter walk but a longer drive, and a very compact area. However, I wouldn't bother unless you want to do one of Requiem, Blue Eyes or MYXOMOP. There are a couple of other reasonable lines with good movement but not worth the drive.

jamesturnbull97

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#4 Re: First time in NYM
October 20, 2018, 08:49:57 pm
The NYM has some very good problems/lines eg. Pannierman's Arete, Philleas Fogg, Mighty Oak, Chasing Rainbows, Sleepy Hollow, Requiem which rival problems at any other Yorkshire crags but they are often one problem venues. However I can't think of a quality crag for a days worth of climbing for bouldering at least, best suggestions would be either Kay Nest or combining a few of the crags along Blakey Ridge which are all reasonable close together. If your willing to drive for a couple of boulders some of those problems are well worth it but for a day of millage somewhere I wouldn't bother.

Steve R

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#5 Re: First time in NYM
October 20, 2018, 09:03:36 pm
Yeah realistically, nowhere as good as Slipstones.... However, if it's a bit too warm for grit bouldering or just wanting a change then Scugdale's worth a mention - loads of pleasant (mainly easy) short solo/highball stuff on nice rock with a couple of good harder lowball problems (eg. super skunk, fairy tale) on the RH crag.  On the far right hand end there's some good stuff especially highballs of New Dimensions and Grandmaster Flash (genuinely really good anywhere).  Wainstones offers a reasonably compact little circuit with some decent stuff too, nice walk in along hasty bank, generally nice spot to be.

Steve R

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#6 Re: First time in NYM
October 20, 2018, 09:09:03 pm
The NYM has some very good problems/lines eg. Pannierman's Arete, Philleas Fogg, Mighty Oak, Chasing Rainbows, Sleepy Hollow, Requiem which rival problems at any other Yorkshire crags but they are often one problem venues. However I can't think of a quality crag for a days worth of climbing for bouldering at least,
Agreed, that's about the size of it. 

Bradders

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#7 Re: First time in NYM
October 20, 2018, 09:19:02 pm
Scugdale's worth a mention

Yes, I'd forgotten Scugdale! On a warmer day it's a lovely place to go for a long circuit of easy highballs/short solos.

 

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