[Stewart]

I did a sport climb once, a few years ago now. More recently while on hols I bouldered a very obvious eliminate at a sport crag. It's about 7C , I also did the next three moves off a sling clipped into a bolt which takes you to a ledge you can sit on. The original route is 6b+. The eliminate is 9 moves, about 7C+ and would need a stack of pads and big cajones to HB. The bolts are already there and crag is entirely sport so makes sense to do it and grade as a sport route but I have no idea what grade. Any suggestions or comparable routes?

[bigironhorse]

8a+

Sounds line a similar breakdown to caviar?

[shark]

Longer 7C+‘s on traverses or long low roofs usually equate to Sport 8b so would be tough at 8a+

[Doylo]

7C+ is usually a bit hard for 8a+. Pump Up The Power is the obvious anonmoly. I did a new short route that seemed 7C+ but I gave it 8a+ because of PUTP .

[ghisino]

hard to translate, imho the boulder grade makes more sense if i understand your description well, in the same way that it is easier to use a sport grade for a 60 move traverse!

although if i understand the context (eliminate, definitely not a king line, in the middle of easier climbs) people in continental europe would often feel a little ashamed to give a "big" grade, and the result is often a massive sandbag! 8a? 
 

[jwi]

It doesn't sound like a route where you have to get the grade absolutely right...

I never know what people mean when the say “a nine move 7C+”. That's massively long, and I've not done any straight up boulderproblems that has 5-6 m of climbing without them being long roofs/traverses–which usually are graded on a traverse scale (wether this is official, as in Bleau, or not).

Hard 8a+?

[remus]

If you want to get some SCIENCE involved, I was looking at the Lattice data the other day (I work for them) and V10 is roughly what most people climbing 8a+ can typically manage, so if you add a bit of rope-faff factor, then hard 8a+/low 8b is about right.

[shark]

Universal agreement 

What kind of grade debate is this?

[tomtom]

Are you actually describing the Oak?



(It’s 8a+ isn’t it?)

[Andy F]

If you want to get some SCIENCE involved, I was looking at the Lattice data the other day (I work for them) and V10 is roughly what most people climbing 8a+ can typically manage, so if you add a bit of rope-faff factor, then hard 8a+/low 8b is about right.

Having climbed a couple of 8a+s and never bouldered harder than 7B at the time (along with others eg Toby, Keefe) I'd say a 7C+ bloc, even for a short route should be 8b minimum. But then again how many 7C+ boulderers can do a proper stamina 8b? Answers on a post card to PO box... You know the rest...

[jwi]

I tried to write, in a not very clear fashion, that a nine move 7C+ is nowhere near as hard as a boulder length 7C+ for a sport climber. A route that starts with a pure (i.e. short) 7C+ boulder is 8b at least.

[Stewart]

Cheers for the replies. 9 moves, the first five are 6C ish. Then a desperate single 7C move to a decent finger rail you can clip off. Followed by another sequence about 7A for the final three. I wasn't sure about grading something so short in the 8s considering the hardest other thing at the crag is 7b but you've reassured me that 8a or above wouldn't be unreasonable. The original route climbs an arete with holds almost all on the arete itself. This route climbs the face next to it completely independently although the arete is always in reach. Just need to get it done now. One day of hols left!

[Doylo]

A single 7C move a few moves in is pretty fuckin hard. Sounds like 8b. Zeke The Freak is easy then 7  or so move sequence (about 7C) and that gets 8b (albeit soft). A single 7C move must be more low percentage .

[Stewart]

It is, I've had 4 sessions on it and done that move twice. Couldn't manage it at all last time. But it is only a few moves in so easy to work.

[Will Hunt]

I also did the next three moves off a sling clipped into a bolt which takes you to a ledge you can sit on.

I feel like I have to post this here, just in case you haven't seen it.
https://dmmclimbing.com/Knowledge/June-2010/How-to-Break-Nylon-Dyneema%C2%AE-Slings