Dawn Wall and Free Solo films (Read 48255 times)

DAVETHOMAS90 · January 22, 2019, 02:56:56 am

Some interesting, and surprising, comments from Honnold, in this interview with Lance Armstrong.

sheavi · January 22, 2019, 02:16:47 pm

Some interesting, and surprising, comments from Honnold, in this interview with Lance Armstrong.
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Honnold's face when LA talks about having kids and decreased performance

220bpm · January 23, 2019, 03:32:10 pm

Off to see Free Solo tomorrow night. It eventually arrived in the backwater that is Edinburgh

Canny wait

SA Chris · January 23, 2019, 06:00:53 pm

showed it twice in Aberdeen, first time i was busy, second time they didn't publicise, now busy for third showing too.

fatneck · January 24, 2019, 09:59:46 am

Now nominated for an Oscar!!

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/free-solo-nominated-oscar/

James Malloch · January 24, 2019, 10:49:22 am

Bit of an odd question but is the Dawn Wall a loud film (in terms of sound track, power screams etc.)?

It's showing in Leeds at The Climbing Lab this Friday but I'm looking after a friends dog for the weekend. They are happy for me to bring a dog into the wall whilst the showing is on but if it's a loud film I don't think it would be fair on him.

He's very well behaved, quiet so no problems with disruption - I'm just worried about the noise...

teestub · January 24, 2019, 10:58:59 am

There’s lots of swelling music etc, and it was relatively loud in the cinema (not Nolan loud or anything). I’ve not been to the Lab but I’m assuming that they don’t have a full Dolby surround with subwoofers, so I reckon the doggo will be fine.

SA Chris · January 24, 2019, 01:46:46 pm

Quote from: teestub on January 24, 2019, 10:58:59 am

subwoofers, so I reckon the doggo will be fine.

lol.

benno · January 24, 2019, 01:48:27 pm

On the subject Honnold's social awkwardness and fear response, I found this BBC podcast interview very interesting: https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/p06y7htv

The key bit that stood out for me was that he views "not being scared" as a practicable skill and just... practices. It sounds like a lot of his social awkwardness could be attributed to his family dynamic during his childhood without having to resort to any labels.

DAVETHOMAS90 · January 25, 2019, 04:20:19 pm

Quote from: benno on January 24, 2019, 01:48:27 pm

.. he views "not being scared" as a practicable skill and just... practices. It sounds like a lot of his social awkwardness could be attributed to his family dynamic during his childhood without having to resort to any labels.

Totally relate to that. Practicing maintaining function while feeling scared.

There's a difference between "feeling fear" and "behaving scared".

I'd suggest Alex means practicing not behaving scared, and that he has grown accustomed to feeling fear.

There are times when I'm reminded just how much fear I used to feel when soloing, but I was the one determining the outcome (at least hoping to!).

DAVETHOMAS90 · January 26, 2019, 01:21:57 pm

How ironic the opening quote :

"Part of the mythology that they’ve been teaching you is that you have no power. Power is not brute force and money; power is in your spirit. Power is in your soul. It is what your ancestors, your old people gave you. Power is in the earth; it is in your relationship to the earth.“

And THAT is what our pursuit can help us all understand.

Climbing is one sport in which the yin/yang approaches to problems can beautifully co-exist - wanted to avoid the unnecessary gender reference.

dunnyg · January 26, 2019, 01:30:07 pm

I got half way through. Seems to me like like a lot of over interpretation and possibly trying to fight battles with the wrong people. Id argue that the millions of normal tourists driving laps round yosemite are more likely to be doing more to destroy and ignore the history/spirit/whatever of the place. Or maybe being a white male cis climber im just a cunt?

danm · January 26, 2019, 08:37:32 pm

One of my female friends was going on a bit of a rant once, saying that it was a disgrace that the patriarchy had stolen the word "cunt" to use as a swear word, and that it was about time women took the word back. I said that while they were about it, could they take "minge" as well? This did not go down well.

Doylo · January 26, 2019, 08:48:37 pm

Why can’t men and women both use the word cunt? Cunt.

Will Hunt · January 26, 2019, 08:58:37 pm

https://www.thewhoresofyore.com/kates-journal/a-nasty-name-for-a-nasty-thing-a-history-of-cunt

tomtom · January 26, 2019, 09:07:37 pm

Quote from: Doylo on January 26, 2019, 08:48:37 pm

Why can’t men and women both use the word cunt? Cunt.

Prime material for a fresh thread on UKC. Fiend - when you’re un-banned you know what to do

DAVETHOMAS90 · January 27, 2019, 02:10:20 am

I prefer to use the other four letter C word.

James Malloch · January 27, 2019, 05:13:36 pm

Quote from: teestub on January 24, 2019, 10:58:59 am

There’s lots of swelling music etc, and it was relatively loud in the cinema (not Nolan loud or anything). I’ve not been to the Lab but I’m assuming that they don’t have a full Dolby surround with subwoofers, so I reckon the doggo will be fine.

I forgot to reply to this after work, sorry!

But thanks for the response, all went okay except the pooch kept farting....

SA Chris · January 28, 2019, 12:56:45 pm

Was she in the same cinema as you?

Paul B · February 11, 2019, 09:46:53 am

Quote from: shark on November 18, 2018, 09:39:11 am

Saw the premiere of Free Solo in Kendal last night. It is the most moving and inspirational film I’ve ever seen on lots of different levels beside the obvious.

I'm a bit late to the party, and hadn't really had any interest in seeing this (nor the Dawn Wall film). However, last night I ended up at The Palace in Longridge 'being sociable'.

I'd agree with Shark on this one. It has to be the best climbing film I've ever seen by a fair margin. From my reading about it, that isn't what I'd imagined 'the move' pitch to look like.

Plattsy · February 11, 2019, 10:24:58 am

Free Solo won the best documentary Bafta last night.

slab_happy · February 11, 2019, 05:18:37 pm

Quote from: Paul B on February 11, 2019, 09:46:53 am

From my reading about it, that isn't what I'd imagined 'the move' pitch to look like.

For entertainment purposes: Honnold set a replica of the Boulder Problem at Vaux Eas:

Probes · February 11, 2019, 06:57:17 pm

Quote from: Paul B on February 11, 2019, 09:46:53 am

Quote from: shark on November 18, 2018, 09:39:11 am
Saw the premiere of Free Solo in Kendal last night. It is the most moving and inspirational film I’ve ever seen on lots of different levels beside the obvious.

I'm a bit late to the party, and hadn't really had any interest in seeing this (nor the Dawn Wall film). However, last night I ended up at The Palace in Longridge 'being sociable'.

I hope you stood for the national anthem Paul! ?

Paul B · February 12, 2019, 09:43:18 am

I did, with my mug of tea.

slab_happy · February 21, 2019, 07:54:18 am

Backtracking to an earlier topic in the discussion -- from an interview with Vasarhelyi and Chin (who's known him for a decade):

https://www.indiewire.com/2019/02/free-solo-risks-falling-oscar-best-documentary-winner-1202044480/

"While Honnold has never been formally diagnosed as being on the autistic spectrum, the filmmakers suspect he falls there somewhere."

Also, people may appreciate this, in which Honnold enjoys the shit out of terrible terrible Hollywood climbing scenes: